Made my own dimple die...and it actually works! - Page 3

patooyee · #41 02-01-2009, 08:25 PM

Has anyone trid dimpling a hole that was cut by a CNC plasma? I'm curious to know if the edge of the hole cracks as it is stretched from being heat-treated by the cutting process.

J. J.

patooyee · #42 02-02-2009, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Here it is...... If you want a set I'd just contact Keith.

http://www.lightracing.com/v1b/flared_tools.cfm

Can anyone give me some contact info for him?

J. J.

Captainfab · #43 02-02-2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patooyee

Can anyone give me some contact info for him?

J. J.

Keith's new website is http://www.chopworx.com
and his phone number is 918-607-3328

ldanny · #44 03-18-2009, 03:39 AM

that is awesome... too bad I dont have the know how or machine to make these. how did you do it without using a press?

Graham08 · #45 03-18-2009, 07:29 AM

I'm just using a 1/2" bolt through the center of the dies and a big ratchet. I'm only doing 16 gauge, though...would hate to try it with 10 gauge.

DannyW · #46 03-18-2009, 07:47 AM

I will have to make some of these for sure !

make use of the lathe that collects dust in the corner at work

ldanny · #47 03-18-2009, 12:46 PM

cool so its threaded down the center.

Graham08 · #48 03-18-2009, 04:04 PM

Not threaded, just a through hole. I use a 1/2" bolt with a couple of Grade 8 washers on each side and a full height nut.

ldanny · #49 03-18-2009, 08:26 PM

do you think a mini lathe like this http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe...s/features.htm would be able to make these?

Graham08 · #50 03-19-2009, 08:30 AM

Probably. Mine was made on a 9" swing South Bend. I don't know too much about the mini lathes, and what I've heard hasn't been too good. If you're serious about getting a lathe, I would try to find a used 9" South Bend. They are a real machine (albeit a small one), not a toy, and can make real parts.

If you're in college, you should see if there is a Formula SAE or SAE Mini Baja program. If that's the case, join up and you may find yourself with machine shop access...that's how I got started in machining.

murfman · #51 03-24-2009, 09:59 PM

another way to do these is with a Greenlee hydraulic knockout. They come up on Ebay quite often. I have a Slugbuster model, and it works excellent on 10 Ga at a 1" conduit sized hole. (It will probably work fine on larged size holes, that is just the largest I've tried.

zancat · #52 03-24-2009, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patooyee

Has anyone trid dimpling a hole that was cut by a CNC plasma? I'm curious to know if the edge of the hole cracks as it is stretched from being heat-treated by the cutting process.

J. J.

I do it all the time. Works just fine.

Zancat

patooyee · #53 03-25-2009, 08:06 PM

Has anyone figured out a general set of rules or dimensions to build these things to to produce a decent dimple in a given material? It seems to me that the only limitation to material thickness is the design of the die and maybe just how thick you can dimple before cracking the hole.

I ask because I want to dimple 3/16 no none of the sets for sale claim that thickness. I know someone who uses the Lite dies on 3/16 all the time with good success but he says it warps the material around it which then has to be straightened out in the press or a vise. It would be worth making my own set to do 3/16" if it wouldn't warp the surrounding material but I would like to go into it with some dimensions or formulae to design with before I spend a lot of time experimenting.

J. J.

Graham08 · #54 03-26-2009, 08:28 AM

I layed mine out using CAD, but a little trig will get you there, too.

The OD of your female flare is going to be the OD of your male flare + 2 * Material Thickness / tan(Flare Angle).

So, if I wanted a female die clearanced for 3/16" material on a 2" OD flare and 35 degree angle, the OD of my female die would be:

2" + 2*(0.188")/tan(35 degrees) = 2" + 2*0.188/0.700 = 2.536".

You can go a little plus or minus on this diameter when doing your final machining and not have a big effect. Just remember a die clearanced for 3/16" is not going to make a very sharp flare on 16 gauge. It won't completely flare the hole because the shoulders will contact before the angled surface completely squashes the sheet.

I would guess the Light Racing dies warp 3/16" because the shoulders don't actually contact the sheet to flatten it back out. The angled surfaces of the die have bottomed and won't let the die travel any more.

patooyee · #55 03-27-2009, 12:58 PM

Great info, thanks! Is there a "best" flare angle?

J. J.

Graham08 · #56 03-27-2009, 02:40 PM

I don't know...the one I made is 35 degrees. I like it pretty well...it was just a rip-off of what the Mittler Bros. catalog says their aircraft punch & flares are. I have seen some at 45 degrees, and it just looks too steep to me.

shaggy10000 · #57 03-29-2009, 09:51 PM

I caught the bug too. Last week i made a couple. A 1/2 and a 3/4.
I really just guessed at the angle and made them 33°. It's just what looked right to me. Im glad i didnt go any further. I also just guessed at the clearance. The both work great. Anyway here's some pics.

This is the trim panel i made

To fill this hole

Installed. It was tough to take this pic since it was so dark so i gave it a little lightening in corel. You get the idea.

pertneer · #58 03-29-2009, 11:01 PM

I like the plates.

patooyee · #59 03-30-2009, 05:18 PM

What about for depth of dimple? Any rule for that?

J. J.

shaggy10000 · #60 03-30-2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pertneer

I like the plates.

Thanks me too.

All i did was measure the flat outer ring on both pieces. I made the male die ring larger, which makes the flared portion smaller than the female side. The difference between the two measurements is the clearance. I clearanced these for sheet metal.