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In The Shop Shop talk, shop tools & fixtures, shop wear, anything for the shop that is not covered in another forum.

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Old 06-15-2013, 07:33 PM
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Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press Rehab

I bought a lightly used Harbor Freight 20 Ton press at an auction last year for about $50 and then swapped on a 20T air over hydraulic jack when I got it home. When my 12 ton press (that I use most of the time) couldn't bend a 1/4" plate I figured I would give the 20T a try for the first time. Well this 1/4" plate must have been some unobtanium because it wouldn't even scratch and instead it bent the frame on my 20T press!

In between projects and trips I have been rebuilding the press slowly with new steel and a few upgrades and tweaks. I almost have it done so I figured I would start this thread to show what I have done to it.

The top C-channels bent up in the middle so instead of spending a lot of time trying to straighten them, out came the portaband and I just cut them off to start with and replaced it with some new channel.

I got the upper beam built similar to what came stock and tacked it in and then pulled the frame square with a chain and a ratcheting load binder. I welded it in and then cut out some internal ribs and welded those in the channel. Next I boxed it all in with more 1/4" steel and plug welded them to the internal ribs. I don't think this is going to bend like the last one!

Next I added some gussets to the jack base to distribute the force over a wider area than just the center pin. I also added some welded on shims to the guides since the factory fit was very sloppy and allowed the jack base to rock inside the frame.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:42 PM
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I decided to add wheels to make the press both easier to move around and raise it to a better working height. This meant a better bottom frame so I unbolted the stock pieces and then added wider angle iron that I made a few inches longer for more stability while being pushed around. I added an expanded metal shelf to the base and repurposed the stock angle iron as part of the shelf. Since the pins for the bed run all the way to the bottom I cant really add any diagonal braces from the angle legs to the frame so I will see how it does for now.

I also added ribs to the bed just like I did on the top and 2 outer 1/4" plates with 1/2" rod for handles that bolt on to add a little more rigidity between the 2 halves and make it easier to raise and lower. I debated about adding a crank/winch but that will maybe come at a much later date.

For extra insurance I added some 1/4" corner gussets to the top beam as well since I had an abundance of them on the shelves.

I have also been painting it as I go. Still a few more things to add before I put it back into service hopefully soon.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:24 AM
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i like it!
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:41 PM
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I think I have the same or at least a very similar press. I like the idea of putting it on wheels except the thing is so top heavy I'd be wary of moving it around that way. How are you setting up the wheels?
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
I think I have the same or at least a very similar press. I like the idea of putting it on wheels except the thing is so top heavy I'd be wary of moving it around that way. How are you setting up the wheels?
I put 4 swivel castors on it. I was going to use 2 fixed and 2 swivel but wound up salvaging 4 swivels off a past project. With everything installed it rolls around just fine even over small cracks without trying to tip over.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:11 AM
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I finished it up this evening so it is done for now. I added 2 pads for the jack to sit on since it overhung the jack cross member. I drilled the base of the jack for 2 - 1/4" bolts to attach the jack to the cross member to keep it straight (it tries to twist slightly) and to prevent it from ever falling off. I also made a handle for the valve so I don't have to use the jack handle anymore. It is made from a 1" long piece of 1/2" square steel tube that slips over the valve and then the cross pin is hammered back into it through 2 holes drilled in the square and some 1/2" wide x 3/16" thick steel strap that is 4" long. Simple and it works great for opening and closing the valve.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:32 AM
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i like it even more now!
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