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In The Shop Shop talk, shop tools & fixtures, shop wear, anything for the shop that is not covered in another forum.

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  #161  
Old 09-29-2014, 12:36 PM
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Thank for the info! Do you use a trim router for the edge and if so, do you have any tips for getting the laminate to trim flush to the edge? I was doing end caps on the pre-lamanated box-store counters found there is still a bit of an edge/lip after trim routing.
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  #162  
Old 09-29-2014, 12:48 PM
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Typically I use a trim router, but a friend was borrowing it to router hinge pockets or something, so I just used one of my other full size routers.

I dont recall a lot of overhang on my tops after routing. Id think it would depend on the tolerance of the router bit, and/or if the bearing picks up glue etc as you are going.

You can always hit the edges with a metal file to trim them down some. I recommend if nothing else breaking the sharp corner after routing. If you slide across it you can easily cut yourself on it.

Dan
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  #163  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:05 PM
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The lip I'm getting is probably just a few thousandths and I would agree it is probably due to the difference in ODs between the bearing and the cutting edge on the bit. I suppose it's better to be too shallow than too deep since I can at least go back with a file to clean off the edge - it just sucks having to do it. I wasn't really sure what to expect since this is my first time dealing with laminate. Now that I've gotten a taste, it makes me want to try it out for larger scale projects like garage cabinets and potentially some work surfaces like what you've done because it looks SO SANITARY. I do worry about how well it would hold up cosmetically since my standard raw wood work surface has ended up with stains, holes, chips, gouges, etc after a few years of abuse. I suppose that's why you have a stainless section?
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  #164  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
The lip I'm getting is probably just a few thousandths and I would agree it is probably due to the difference in ODs between the bearing and the cutting edge on the bit. I suppose it's better to be too shallow than too deep since I can at least go back with a file to clean off the edge - it just sucks having to do it. I wasn't really sure what to expect since this is my first time dealing with laminate. Now that I've gotten a taste, it makes me want to try it out for larger scale projects like garage cabinets and potentially some work surfaces like what you've done because it looks SO SANITARY. I do worry about how well it would hold up cosmetically since my standard raw wood work surface has ended up with stains, holes, chips, gouges, etc after a few years of abuse. I suppose that's why you have a stainless section?
Ya, that lip sounds typical. Laminate is pretty fun. I did my first projects with it probably 15-20 years ago doing car stereo stuff. My buddy who I worked for used to do lots of laminate work and showed me the basics.

My old bench, that I just gave away, held up decent over 10 years of use/abuse. Most of the damage was from drilling through things without a scrap piece of wood under. I did everything on that bench. Tore down transmissions, and pretty much fabricated everything on my cars (other than welding) on that bench.

Here it is yesterday after unloading it


And the super huge version here http://www.clubhousecustoms.com/gall...927_113045.jpg

Whats nice is you can wipe it down with lacquer thinner to get grease, oil etc off and not damage the finish.

Once I get all setup Im considering routing out a 12" or so square of the top, maybe 1/2" deep so I can set a piece of oak or something in to drill on. Once its full of holes I can simply pop it out and replace it with a new piece.

And yes, the ss part will be for doing transmission / suspension/ motor work.

Im also planning a welding / fabrication table. Thats where Ill do all the welding, grinding, and beating on stuff.



Dan
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  #165  
Old 09-29-2014, 04:10 PM
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Bandit, usually the "endcaps" are done first on a custom made countertop, then the little lip you are seeing is belt sanded flush to the wood substrate, then the top is glued down and routed, then the little lip is hand filed to a slight angle.

Also, laminate comes in a buttload of different patterns, not just colors. Im a fan also.

Nice job Dan.
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  #166  
Old 10-02-2014, 09:19 AM
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A buddy came over last night and we got the plastic vapor barrier up on the other half of the ceiling, and managed to get 5 more metal sheets up. Only 19 to go, hah. Hoping we can get the rest up by the end of next week.



Dan
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  #167  
Old 10-02-2014, 10:45 AM
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Nice! Looks like you'll be able to make it warm in there this winter.
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  #168  
Old 10-02-2014, 10:47 AM
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Looks like you need a scissor lift! It's going to be warm and toasty in there - you might want to consider moving the pool inside and living out of this space for the winter.
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  #169  
Old 10-02-2014, 12:38 PM
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Nice! Looks like you'll be able to make it warm in there this winter.
Thats the plan. Im like 2 weeks or so away from ordering the boiler system.

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Looks like you need a scissor lift! It's going to be warm and toasty in there - you might want to consider moving the pool inside and living out of this space for the winter.
Scissor lift would be nice, but we manage pretty well with the rolling scaffold and a ladder. Im pretty proficient at wheeling myself around by holding onto the ceiling..... lol

We averaged about 15mins/panel last night. We werent exactly trying hard, and had to spend a little time removing the overhead door brackets, and notching the panels etc. The next section should go much quicker, we only have the one post to deal with.

Dan
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  #170  
Old 10-02-2014, 04:25 PM
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Looks great!

I think I asked you this before, but you are just putting the ceiling panels up then butting the "j" channel up under it right? How does it look on the end walls? Like where you can see "into" the corrugated section of the ceiling panel? I'm about to start my ceiling, same as yours, and the gap looks huge, just holding a piece of channel up to the ceiling panel. I think Im over thinking it.
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  #171  
Old 10-02-2014, 06:07 PM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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Looks great!

I think I asked you this before, but you are just putting the ceiling panels up then butting the "j" channel up under it right? How does it look on the end walls? Like where you can see "into" the corrugated section of the ceiling panel? I'm about to start my ceiling, same as yours, and the gap looks huge, just holding a piece of channel up to the ceiling panel. I think Im over thinking it.
Put some color on the wall before putting up the J-channel. Use scrap panel or whatever happens to be handy that is the same color as the panels. Or go all out and bend some metal as I did at my friend Dave's place;







I did the interior finishing including hanging the sheetmetal paneling and custom bent aluminum stock for the windows, doors, and trim between ceiling and walls [the proper term escapes me at the moment].

Richard

Last edited by alwaysFlOoReD; 10-02-2014 at 10:13 PM.
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  #172  
Old 10-02-2014, 08:16 PM
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Dude! That looks sweet! Shit , I didn't even think of using a contrasting color for the trim.

But my ceiling panels are raised like yours and they do look thicker than Dans.

I do have white coil stock I could bend and throw up to cover the exposed wall.
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  #173  
Old 10-03-2014, 06:55 AM
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All these photos are making me wish I had done at least my ceiling in metal. Sure looks to beat the heck out finishing and painting drywall!
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  #174  
Old 10-03-2014, 10:02 PM
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I finally got some pics uploaded. At first I just put the J up for the wall, but of course you could see the wood/lowes tape/plastic etc between the ribs. I bought a roll of white aluminum flashing and cut it into 2" wide strips and put it under the J to finish it off. It looks nice, but def not as nice as alwaysFlOoReD's custom crown molding.





On to the update:

Finished up the insulation today (not taped in the pic but its all done now). SOOO glad to be done with insulation (until I get back to the upstairs).

I also got all the seams on the ceiling plastic and insulation taped up so we can continue with the steel.



Yesterday I picked up the first 44" HF box. I slid it in this afternoon, perfect fit.






Dan
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  #175  
Old 10-03-2014, 10:33 PM
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Thanks Dan, that's exactly what I was looking for.

Box looks great.
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  #176  
Old 10-08-2014, 09:16 AM
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Glad I could help.

Not a super exciting update but we got another 10 sheets of steel on the ceiling last night (9 to go). Ill probably put up the next few light fixtures friday.



Finished up some more shelves in the storage area. Im planning on one more set of 4x8 shelves in the middle of the room. Maybe next week.





Dan
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  #177  
Old 10-14-2014, 09:49 AM
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Friday I finished up the conduit for the network and other cables and also pulled the water line into the house.



Also more or less finished emptying out the attached garage, got some sheet rock up behind my old bench area (was plywood). Yay, now I have TWO garages to finish.



And finally, :drumroll: last night we finished the ceiling metal. Feels so good to finally have it all up and more importantly not taking up a couple hundred sqft of floor space.



Dan
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  #178  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:23 AM
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Friday night I put up 4 more light fixtures. Ive since installed the bulbs. Just need one more fixture which Ill grab this week.



Saturday my daughter and I built a riser for the garage cabinets and got them screwed together and into place. I need to get the lowers painted but It will probably wait until spring. Just too much other stuff to do right now. I will likely pick up the new counter top for it soon so we can at least use the space. I really need to get a house tool box put together now that Ive moved to the barn. The garage is the emptiest its been since we built 11 years ago. I actually parked a car that didnt require work in there last night for the first time ever.



Yesterday my father in law and I scraped some sod and spread some stones out behind the barn to make room for my new 30' long stainless steel "shed".



The trailer is an old refrigeration trailer. The whole outside is 100% stainless except for the frame of course. It has an aluminum floor inside. I need to rebuild or replace the side and rear doors and make a ramp for the back but otherwise it was a super awesome deal and is a HUGE improvement over my current 10x14 rusty tin shed.



Dan
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  #179  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:42 AM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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This is super nice,on the roof ceiling join the best and easiest looking system I ever seen is where a piece was folded and attached around edge first effectively forming what looks like a box which you butt sheet up to,looks very nice,similar to what you might do with ship lap corners etc..now I have to ask why you need the container ????agree it's very effective and love to have one myself but ugly compared to your garage
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  #180  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:48 AM
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I need the container to store my mowers, lawn stuff etc. I HATE the smell of rotting cut grass on the mower, plus Im allergic to it. So I need that stuff out of the way and not cluttering up my nice shop.

Its a bit ugly, but once I fix up the doors and remove anything thats not stainless it should be pretty decent looking. Plus I really cant see it from the house :-p

Dan
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