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Benders and Bending Which bender is best? How do you use a bender? How do you calculate bends? Everything Bender related...


Benders and Bending Which bender is best? How do you use a bender? How do you calculate bends? Everything Bender related...

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  #21  
Old 08-07-2015, 03:52 PM
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Captainfab Captainfab is offline
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Congratulations

I hope all is well with mom and the new baby.

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Originally Posted by Adam Gardiner View Post
No more progress as been busy with a newborn baby and work so this will be on hold for a little while.
Adam
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2015, 06:08 AM
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Just had a quick look at the code for this project and I think I've got it pretty much how I like it now. So looking at sorting out how to mount it on the bender, I was thinking that maybe using some bronze bushes and making some new mountings for the top and bottom arms so it moves through a bust rather than steel on steel contact with I. E. A 1 1/4" bronze bush support and then some how locking the die to the pin. The way I envisage this is like a push bike handle bar set, so modifying the pin slightly with a tapered keyway that you tighten up on a 5mm or 6 mm bolt? The other way would be to drill and tap a 6mm hole in the shaft and then drill a 6mm hole in the due to bolt through? Any ideas.
Regards
Adam

Last edited by Adam Gardiner; 09-27-2015 at 09:53 AM.
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  #23  
Old 09-28-2015, 12:24 AM
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I prefer a set screw through the side of the die. It's easy and it works.
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2015, 03:39 AM
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Well that is certainly easy enough to do, I've seen this where someone fitted your tube bandit to a JD2 m32
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=8133 and like the idea but I was thinking of still trying to use the 1 1/4" pin thought about getting 2 bosses made to weld to the top and bottom arms which could have a 1 1/4" brass bush in so it's turns easier im not bothered about the 2 pushing arms having a bush as these will turn with the die, has anyone else made a modification like this?
Regards

Adam
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  #25  
Old 09-28-2015, 10:30 AM
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Yes, bushing the arms is a great idea. I have seen a few people do it. JMR bushes their benders with an extra long bushing that goes through both sets of arms, which keeps the arms from separating when you change dies. From the bender comparison thread:

Quote:
JMR has gone a step further and installed aluminum bronze bushings in the main arms and the swing arms that prevent the arms from direct contact. This in turn performs two function, prevents the arms from having direct contact with each other and prevents the swing arms from sliding out when the die in not installed. As seen in the photo's below.



This mean that the main die pin is never in a bind and can be removed and inserted extremely easy.
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  #26  
Old 09-28-2015, 12:04 PM
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I bushed my Pro-Tool 105 HD arms, and in addition to whatever precision I might pick up, they are great at keeping the arms in place when changing dies.
Ian
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  #27  
Old 09-28-2015, 12:07 PM
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Here is a link to my display project video. It is not attached to the tube bender but you can get the idea of the control etc.
It has 0.1 degree accuracy
It has 3 setpoint switches +10 +1 and -0.5
You cannot adjust setpoint while output is active
It compares pulses to preset value to enable output
You have to press a button to set the preset value
It has a reset button to zero the encoder count
https://youtu.be/TlEKwhL-Dic

Adam
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  #28  
Old 09-28-2015, 12:15 PM
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Adam Gardiner Adam Gardiner is offline
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I certainly will be going down the bushing route for mine I was thinking welding a boss to the top but will look into machine the arms if I feel that they have enough material to be able to machine the extra out of them to allow for the bush. I'm not to concerned about the inner arms as these will be moving with the pin.
Thanks for the replys

Regards

Adam
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  #29  
Old 09-28-2015, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Gardiner View Post
Well that is certainly easy enough to do, I've seen this where someone fitted your tube bandit to a JD2 m32
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=8133 and like the idea but I was thinking of still trying to use the 1 1/4" pin thought about getting 2 bosses made to weld to the top and bottom arms which could have a 1 1/4" brass bush in so it's turns easier im not bothered about the 2 pushing arms having a bush as these will turn with the die, has anyone else made a modification like this?
Regards

Adam
That was me

Sad to say, i still have not bushed the bender arms... the TubeBandit has worked so well and i hardly swap dies, but i need to go ahead and add them.

I love your encoder setup, looking forward to seeing it on the bender.
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  #30  
Old 09-29-2015, 04:57 AM
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Thanks for the comment I did look at a swag kit but thought I could make something similar I bought a arduino micro controler a few years ago to try and learn to code and it just sat there until I saw the bandits tube bandit and I started to look at coding again. And seeing people's conversion including your upgrade Rokcrler made me want to upgrade my tube bender before I make anything.

Adam
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  #31  
Old 09-29-2015, 06:21 PM
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Adam-

Are you planning on selling these? I was going to buy a tube bandit, but was too slow in getting my money together.

If you need your arms milled and bushings make, I can do that for you.

Steve
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  #32  
Old 09-29-2015, 06:48 PM
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I will not be selling these as they are open source. I can however supply the code and wiring diagram/ parts list via email if required.
Regards

Adam
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  #33  
Old 09-29-2015, 07:12 PM
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I cannot however verify that the code works for the output control until I try/prove it so will not supply this sorry.
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  #34  
Old 10-01-2015, 02:20 PM
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*Here is my code for anyone interested I do not guarantee any of it and if you choose to use it or modify it that is completely up to you. If you also want to use the output function to control a sol valve it would probably be wise to fit an external stop circuit incase anything fails as a backup.
Regards

Adam


#include <Wire.h> // Enable this line if using Arduino Uno, Mega, etc.
//#include <TinyWireM.h> // Enable this line if using Adafruit Trinket, Gemma, etc.
#include "Adafruit_LEDBackpack.h"
#include "Adafruit_GFX.h"
int pulses, A_SIG=0, B_SIG=1;****** //encoder inputs pin 2 and 3
*************** //reset value switch
int buttonPressCount;
float (result);
float (result2);
const int* buttonPin0 = 11;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to +100
const int* buttonPin1 = 10;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to +10
const int* buttonPin2 = 7;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to -5
const int* buttonPin3 = 13;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to Setpoint
const int* buttonPin4 = 12;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to reset setpoint
const int* buttonPin5 = 6;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to enable output
const int* buttonPin6 = 8;*** //the pin that the pushbutton is attached to reset pulses count
const int sol = 9;*********** // output solenoid
*
*
int buttonPressCounter = 0;** //counter for the number of button presses
int buttonState0 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int buttonState1 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int buttonState2 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int buttonState3 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int buttonState4 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int buttonState5 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int buttonState6 = 0;******** //current state of the button
int lastButtonState0 = 0;**** //previous state of the button
int lastButtonState1 = 0;**** //previous state of the button
int lastButtonState2 = 0;**** //previous state of the button
Adafruit_7segment matrix = Adafruit_7segment();
void setup(){
** attachInterrupt(0, A_RISE, RISING);
* attachInterrupt(1, B_RISE, RISING);
* pinMode(buttonPin0, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input + 100
* pinMode(buttonPin1, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input + 10
* pinMode(buttonPin2, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input -5
* pinMode(buttonPin3, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input* Setpoint
* pinMode(buttonPin4, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input reset setpoint
* pinMode(buttonPin5, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input enable output
* pinMode(buttonPin6, INPUT);* //initialize the button pin as a input* reset pulses count
* pinMode(sol, OUTPUT);
#ifndef __AVR_ATtiny85__
* Serial.begin(9600);
* Serial.println("7 Segment Backpack Test");
* Wire.begin();
#endif
* matrix.begin(0x70);
*
}
void loop() {
* int val = analogRead(3);
* val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 15);
* matrix.setBrightness(val);
* buttonState6 = digitalRead(buttonPin6);
* result = pulses * 0.1;
* matrix.println(result);
* matrix.writeDisplay();
* if (buttonState6 == HIGH && digitalRead(buttonPin5)==LOW) {
* pulses = 0;
* }
*
*
* while(digitalRead(buttonPin3)==HIGH && digitalRead(buttonPin5)==LOW){
*** setPoint();
*** int val = analogRead(3);
* val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 15);
* matrix.setBrightness(val);
* result2 = buttonPressCounter * 0.1;
* matrix.println(result2);
* matrix.writeDisplay();
*
* }
* if(digitalRead(buttonPin4)==HIGH && digitalRead(buttonPin5)==LOW){
*** buttonPressCounter = 0;
* }
*if(digitalRead(buttonPin5)==HIGH){
*** automatic();
*** int pulses;
*** int buttonPressCounter;
*** int val = analogRead(3);
*** val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 15);
*** matrix.setBrightness(val);
*** matrix.println(result);
*** matrix.writeDisplay();
*** }
*** else{
***** digitalWrite(sol, LOW);
*** }
}
void setPoint(){
** buttonState0 = digitalRead(buttonPin0);* //read the pushbutton input pin
* // compare the buttonState to its previous state
* if (buttonState0 != lastButtonState0) {
*** // if the state has changed, increment the counter
*** if (buttonState0 == HIGH) {
***** // if the current state is HIGH then the button
***** // went from off to on:
***** buttonPressCounter+=100;
*** }
* }
* buttonState1 = digitalRead(buttonPin1);* //read the pushbutton input pin
** if (buttonState1 != lastButtonState1) {
*** // if the state has changed, increment the counter
*** if (buttonState1 == HIGH) {
***** // if the current state is HIGH then the button
***** // went from off to on:
***** buttonPressCounter+=10;
*** }
* }
* buttonState2 = digitalRead(buttonPin2);* //read the pushbutton input pin
** if (buttonState2 != lastButtonState2) {
*** // if the state has changed, increment the counter
*** if (buttonState2 == HIGH) {
***** // if the current state is HIGH then the button
***** // went from off to on:
***** buttonPressCounter-=5;
*** }
* }
*
* lastButtonState0 = buttonState0;* // save the current state as the last state, for next time through the loop
* lastButtonState1 = buttonState1;* // save the current state as the last state, for next time through the loop
* lastButtonState2 = buttonState2;* // save the current state as the last state, for next time through the loop
*
}
void automatic(){
** if (pulses < buttonPressCounter){
*** digitalWrite (sol, HIGH);
* }
* if (pulses >= buttonPressCounter){
*** digitalWrite (sol, LOW);
* }
}
void A_RISE(){
*detachInterrupt(0);
*A_SIG=1;
*
*if(B_SIG==0)
*pulses++;//moving forward
*if(B_SIG==1)
*pulses--;//moving reverse
*attachInterrupt(0, A_FALL, FALLING);
}
void A_FALL(){
* detachInterrupt(0);
*A_SIG=0;
*
*if(B_SIG==1)
*pulses++;//moving forward
*if(B_SIG==0)
*pulses--;//moving reverse
*
*attachInterrupt(0, A_RISE, RISING);*
}
void B_RISE(){
*detachInterrupt(1);
*B_SIG=1;
*
*if(A_SIG==1)
*pulses++;//moving forward
*if(A_SIG==0)
*pulses--;//moving reverse
*
*attachInterrupt(1, B_FALL, FALLING);
}
void B_FALL(){
*detachInterrupt(1);
*B_SIG=0;
*
*if(A_SIG==0)
*pulses++;//moving forward
*if(A_SIG==1)
*pulses--;//moving reverse
*attachInterrupt(1, B_RISE, RISING);
}
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  #35  
Old 10-10-2015, 06:01 PM
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If you scroll down that at the right speed it looks like the matrix
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  #36  
Old 10-11-2015, 12:44 PM
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LOL. Sometimes that's what code review seems like.
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  #37  
Old 12-20-2015, 05:19 PM
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Don't mean to hijack your thread here, but I just happened across your thread a couple weeks ago. This is something I had been wanting to do for quite a while now but honestly didn't have any experience with arduinos or rotary encoders. But over the last year i have done quite a big with arduinos on other projects and learned everything i need to know about rotary encoders from this thread. I bought the SWAG kit, but was never really happy with it. It was always a little jenky and temperamental, probably because it was based on a Harbor Freight tool.

I went with a little different implementation of what you get. I used a separate rotary encoder for setting the angle instead of push buttons, and alphanumeric display. I also added an "auto zero" feature that used a hydraulic pressure switch to determine when the slack has been taken out of the system. I plan to add a solenoid bypass valve at some point for the auto zero and when you hit to set angle to prevent the overrun you see in the video. I added a piezo buzzer for an audible indicator, but that turned out pretty useless as you can't hear it over the hydraulic power unit.

The display is a little hard to see in the video mainly due to the lighting and cell phone video.

https://youtu.be/2gwlnA4MpNU

I mounted it using the pin that came with the SWAG kit and a couple parts i whipped up in the 3D printer.
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  #38  
Old 12-20-2015, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelman View Post
Don't mean to hijack your thread here, but I just happened across your thread a couple weeks ago. This is something I had been wanting to do for quite a while now but honestly didn't have any experience with arduinos or rotary encoders. But over the last year i have done quite a big with arduinos on other projects and learned everything i need to know about rotary encoders from this thread. I bought the SWAG kit, but was never really happy with it. It was always a little jenky and temperamental, probably because it was based on a Harbor Freight tool.

I went with a little different implementation of what you get. I used a separate rotary encoder for setting the angle instead of push buttons, and alphanumeric display. I also added an "auto zero" feature that used a hydraulic pressure switch to determine when the slack has been taken out of the system. I plan to add a solenoid bypass valve at some point for the auto zero and when you hit to set angle to prevent the overrun you see in the video. I added a piezo buzzer for an audible indicator, but that turned out pretty useless as you can't hear it over the hydraulic power unit.

The display is a little hard to see in the video mainly due to the lighting and cell phone video.

https://youtu.be/2gwlnA4MpNU

I mounted it using the pin that came with the SWAG kit and a couple parts i whipped up in the 3D printer.
I dont see it as hijaking the thread, infact I think that its great to see someone else playing with the arduino, and it looks a great project.

I did think about a rotary encoder for setting the bend angle but didn't have one but I did have the switches lying around, I noticed that you had used the nano which is what I would do if I build it again as I remove the arduino chip from mine and have to put it into a uno to program it or tweet the code.
I did think about the auto zero off a pressure switch and thought it would be easy to implement, this is something I may add one it is on the pipe bender (I've not touched the project for a while I need to get it finushed). How accurate to you find the auto zero?


Adam
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  #39  
Old 12-20-2015, 09:03 PM
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It is actually a pro micro, Leonardo based. Yes way easier to program than what you are doing, which is a necessity for me because i program by trial and error.

I need to make all the electronics a little more permanent before i do any real bending with it so I can't say too much about the accuracy of the auto zero yet. I have to believe it is at least as accurate as setting it manually. The switch I used was supposedly preset to 20PSI and i had to bump it up some because the friction of the seals or just inertia caused the pressure to spike enough to trip it on first movement. I will have to play with it some more to find a middle ground or add a debounce type routine to make sure it is tripped for a certain amount of time before resetting, of course that could affect accuracy.
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  #40  
Old 12-20-2015, 09:27 PM
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I also programed it by trial and error, watching youtube videos, adding bits of code and seeing if it worked etc, I will be investing in some new nanos the new year for the next coding projects I have planned (tft screen display in the truck showing gear in, high, low diff lock etc winch status I. Email. Freespool/ fast/slow speed etc) that's the coding project to do over winter in the dark evenings.
I am very new to the arduino platform and this was the 1st real project and i learned a lot by making it,
I look forward to seeing your completed project! Please keep posting updates on here or maybe start a thread
I'm hoping to modify the pipe bender over christmas/in the new year to have the arms bushed, and will look at the hydraulics in the spring now,
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