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UTV/Buggy Fabrication For all those doing your own fabrication on the Yamaha Rhino and other UTV's


UTV/Buggy Fabrication For all those doing your own fabrication on the Yamaha Rhino and other UTV's

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  #41  
Old 02-27-2013, 07:40 PM
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deaner deaner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
I'm thinking a real simple silhouette skin of 050-alum riveted to the tube on flags with minimum metal work. I would do the roof for example in glass and I would make it QR for sunny days. I personally am done with clear plastic in Off Road applications, so while the Lexan/PolyCarb is a cool idea (RC Car Body) it will not look good long.
Can you explain more..what do you mean by silhouette skin...and riveted to tube on flags...QR is that quick release or some kind of tinting like those glasses that go dark when you go out in the sun?
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  #42  
Old 02-27-2013, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullnerd View Post
Deaner...why dont you post this on MBN?

Pretty cool BTW...and nice shop!
Thanks Bullnerd, I'm new to this posting stuff, spent too much time in the shop I guess. I'll see if I can get this on MBN also. It's not really mini though,except for the width, does that count?

Last edited by deaner; 02-27-2013 at 07:53 PM.
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  #43  
Old 03-01-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deaner View Post
Can you explain more..what do you mean by silhouette skin...and riveted to tube on flags...QR is that quick release or some kind of tinting like those glasses that go dark when you go out in the sun?
The type of skin I am talking about is simple flat panels as in no compound curves built in the full on KISS mode. it is simple and there to give the illusion of more.
By flags I am referring to a strip of +/-1/8" by 'something' wide. It runs (welded) tangent to the tube and offset to the tube by the skin thickness and allows you to bond or rivet the skin to the tube structure without drilling the tubes. the edge of the skin can then be formed around the tube to give a finished look.
On large panels that tend to oil can I've used two thicknesses of metal and riveted them together laying out the rivets in a flame and or logo.
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Last edited by entropy; 03-01-2013 at 11:46 AM.
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  #44  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:06 PM
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E, I thought those were called tabs.
I was thinking of recessing the panels +/- 1/2 in , rivet the skin to alum angle w/domed solid rivets, then bolt alum angle to fewer tabs. Could put more rivets on for that look.
Flat panels are going to be tough on side at rear. The "wheel well" has to flare out a couple of inches, I'll get pics up soon.
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  #45  
Old 03-01-2013, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deaner View Post
E, I thought those were called tabs.
I call em tabs when they are an inch or two long these would be the full length of the panel.
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  #46  
Old 03-01-2013, 02:32 PM
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CarterKraft CarterKraft is offline
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That actually looks way cooler than I was thinking and I thought it was gonna be awesome, if that says anything.

I think you are gonna be copied allot, hell maybe your coping somone else now, I just hadn't seen it.

As for the skins, I think it needs some bomber influence, but you like you have a good grasp on what it needs.
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  #47  
Old 03-01-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
I call em tabs when they are an inch or two long these would be the full length of the panel.
Like 1"x1/8 flat stock, stitch welded all the way around, then riveted. That would be easier than alum angle-bolted on. Would look okay with no skin, better than tabs. I plan on running this summer either way.
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  #48  
Old 03-01-2013, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKraft View Post
That actually looks way cooler than I was thinking and I thought it was gonna be awesome, if that says anything.

I think you are gonna be copied allot, hell maybe your coping somone else now, I just hadn't seen it.

As for the skins, I think it needs some bomber influence, but you like you have a good grasp on what it needs.
Bomber influence, that's why I'm thinking alum skin with solid domed rivets. Now how about a pretty girl painted on like WWll bomber.
I am coping someone else...Henry Ford....Didn't you know he made a 32 three window long travel coupe with a transverse mounted rear engine? LOL
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  #49  
Old 03-01-2013, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deaner View Post
Now how about a pretty girl painted on like WWll bomber.
Deja Vu man, crazy
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  #50  
Old 03-03-2013, 03:06 PM
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Here is a really basic photochop:
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Obviously this was from your earlier shot. I had to stretch the chassis to fit the wheelbase of the buggy in the image which makes the tube grill look fat. If you feel like it, take a new pic from the angle of this image & I'll take it further.
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  #51  
Old 03-04-2013, 11:27 AM
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Boxy, cool, I'm going to have to learn to do that someday. I'll get you some more pics.
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  #52  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:15 PM
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Finally got some pics.
Some laser cut parts, front a-arm mounts, a-arm jig, mock up of rear well tube near engine, side view.
The a-arm jig has a tube welded to the side that fits into another that is welded into the frame of my work table. If it is pulled out a little, it rotates so it can be tacked all the way around. Pushed in, it catches on the edge of the table and stays in position. I have spacers on the one end, out for longer lower a-arm, in for shorter upper a-arm.
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Last edited by deaner; 03-06-2013 at 12:10 AM.
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  #53  
Old 03-05-2013, 11:47 PM
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I am really impressed with the proportions you built into this thing! Did you take a bunch of measurements from a real coupe at some point?

That one image is close to what I started with but just far enough out of perspective to not work for me. As fast as you are working tho you'll have it suspended in a few days anyway! Haha
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  #54  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxy View Post
I am really impressed with the proportions you built into this thing! Did you take a bunch of measurements from a real coupe at some point?

That one image is close to what I started with but just far enough out of perspective to not work for me. As fast as you are working tho you'll have it suspended in a few days anyway! Haha
I took an old photo of a moon eyed salt flat racer from the net, had my daughter overlay a graph on it then figured the wheels where 15 inches. I used the 15" as my scale and measured everything, then made a few adjustments to make it work. I also starred at a lot of pics on the net.

I don't know how I would get the exact same perspective as other pic.
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  #55  
Old 03-06-2013, 03:48 AM
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I cheated a little bit - work in progress...
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  #56  
Old 03-06-2013, 09:36 AM
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GEEGONKEY GEEGONKEY is offline
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Buggy Rod

Your build look's awesome.I cant wait to see the end result.
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  #57  
Old 03-06-2013, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxy View Post
I cheated a little bit - work in progress...
Attachment 7681
That is freakin awesome! I guess I don't need to finish now, I have a picture of it done right in front of me.
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  #58  
Old 03-06-2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEEGONKEY View Post
Your build look's awesome.I cant wait to see the end result.
Thanks, you can see the end result before the end, check out what boxy did.
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  #59  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:41 PM
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aggie91 aggie91 is offline
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I've been away from here awhile, this is a build that I can get into. I like your idea and your tube work is great. Looks like a skeleton of a '32!
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  #60  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:00 PM
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I got a couple of a-arms tacked together so I could mock up the ifs.
For camber I got : 0* @ droop, 2* @ ride height, -8* @ compression
For caster : 2* @ droop, 6* @ ride height, 12* @ compression
That's how it is set up now, the initial settings could be easily changed, the frame brackets aren't welded on yet.
How do these measurements sound?
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