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UTV/Buggy Fabrication For all those doing your own fabrication on the Yamaha Rhino and other UTV's


UTV/Buggy Fabrication For all those doing your own fabrication on the Yamaha Rhino and other UTV's

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  #21  
Old 10-19-2015, 03:18 AM
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Gotlift Gotlift is offline
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The problems that it has caused me is it robs me of power when turning hard in sand as the outside tire shovels. Another issue is trying to push the buggy backwards with the tires turned is impossible. I don't have reverse. I believe it may have contributed to my crash as well. When I accelerated out of a corner and counter steered it over steered and put me into the mound that flipped me onto the lid.
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  #22  
Old 10-19-2015, 04:39 PM
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Chydik-1234 Chydik-1234 is offline
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And what disorder at you on forward wheels. I so did myself 3 degrees. On such disorder strongly devours rubber. And you didn't try to install the stabilizer of cross stability. that the list in turn would be less. As for a steering rack, I have it from the car and definitely don't know where there have to be hinges of drafts, I made opposite to fastening of the lever. And why I have lower levers head over heels?
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  #23  
Old 10-19-2015, 04:40 PM
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Chydik-1234 Chydik-1234 is offline
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I transport different translators, happens not to understand at all that is written, different words aren't connected at all with a barracuda))))
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  #24  
Old 10-19-2015, 05:34 PM
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That makes it hard. I appreciate your effort. Front tires steal power when turning in deep sand. Outside tire turns too much compared to inside tire.
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  #25  
Old 10-19-2015, 06:43 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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Gotlift - Sounds like you have a significant amount of reverse Ackermann. You can counter this some by adding static toe out, but that has it's own set of issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deaner View Post
I believe the problem with the steering is from using spindles designed for front steer rack and pinion and using them for rear steer by switching them from left to right. A solution would be to cut the steering arms off the spindles and remount them. Where the outer tie rod end mounts, needs to be closer to the center of the car, then shorter tie rods.
This is probably the issue. See this article figures 7 and 8; see how your geometry compares: https://sweetmfg.biz/uploads/files/t...steering-4.pdf
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  #26  
Old 10-19-2015, 10:56 PM
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If you remount the rack and pinion toward the rear of the car you can reduce the reverse ackermann. If you move it far enough back, you may be able to get some positive ackermann. Getting to zero would be a big plus.
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  #27  
Old 10-20-2015, 04:33 PM
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Chydik-1234 Chydik-1234 is offline
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Isn't it just easier to redo the steering arm, to shift back the steering rack, as etogesic consequences that the tie rod will touch the frame. I also noticed that the Ackerman on my buggy not enough, as my friends said repeatedly that the wheels are not correct in turn that outside wheel cuts the earth.




here I am turning the wheel



there may be a problem in the fact. the nose frame is bullied at 16.80 *
castor so I did 6 *


what size should I upload a photo?
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  #28  
Old 01-01-2017, 12:56 PM
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Chydik-1234 Chydik-1234 is offline
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Hello! long ago I did not posted and so I began assembling the new frame.

https://youtu.be/G99i-wKYJSo
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  #29  
Old 01-01-2017, 01:24 PM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chydik-1234 View Post
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