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Benders and Bending Which bender is best? How do you use a bender? How do you calculate bends? Everything Bender related...


Benders and Bending Which bender is best? How do you use a bender? How do you calculate bends? Everything Bender related...

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  #1  
Old 11-28-2016, 05:59 PM
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How to

Hey guys so after a few months of my completed bender sitting in the shed un trialed (partner and I are in process of trying to build our new home so not much time)
I have done a few test bends with my new backing block that I got to replace the one that wasn't machined properly, I was just making a few cheater bars/bends

1st what order/process are the guys with hydro benders removing there tube from the bender? I can back the ram off and release the drive pin but all the are pins seem to locked in when there's no pressure on anything my pins slide in and out no worries, Iv found if I reverse the drive arm I can remove the backing block pin but this cause the tube to be bent backwards
What order are you guys removing your tube or any vids? Is there existing posts on this?
Cheers guys
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2016, 06:06 PM
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The method I use is as follows:
1) Install tubing and advance hydraulics until slop is removed from the system and there is very little pressure on the tubing
2) Zero the digital readout or adjust the wire pointer to read "zero"
3) Advance the bender until reaching the desired angle PLUS springback. For example, if the desired angle is 90 deg and this particular tube springs back 6deg, I would bend to 96deg.
4) Reverse the hydraulics until there is no longer pressure/tension in the system so pins and the tubing can be easily removed. While you are reversing, you will notice the tubing springing back. That is normal behavior.

If you do not know your springback, just do the same steps above without adding springback, then measure the tubing after it comes out of the bender. The difference between how far you bent the tube while in the bender and what you actually get when removing it from the bender is your springback angle. Springback will be different for different materials and dies.
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2016, 06:16 PM
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Yea for my 1-1/2 inch tube I have 6deg Spring back have worked that out my problem is actually trying to remove the tube from the bender
Just wondering how others do it
Only way I can get it out is back the drive arm out until I can remove pin but then everything else is still jammed and very tight I watched a few utube clips most people into the u strap on the die and pull the tube through I can't budge my u clamp on the die and seem to have to remove the backing block but even this is tight as buggery I'm worried about damaging the tube by reversing the drive arm to try and remove the pin from the backing block as it starts to pull the tube back the opp direction you just bent
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:00 PM
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Okay I didn't realize you were having issues with a tight u-strap. That is a different problem entirely. I haven't run into that myself, but I know others have and hopefully someone can chime in for you.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:48 PM
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My M32 started doing that with 1.5 tube both rew and DOM.
I have to take a deadblow hammer and smack the tube in front of the U-strap to break it loose from the die and follower block. Im using a single action cylinder so the internal spring is not strong enough to pull the assembly back. it used to pull normally before and my other dies dont do that best of my recollection.

Smack the tube loose.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2016, 10:25 PM
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So I jumped back on utube watched a few more vids think I know where I'm going wrong
What I was doing was load tube bend to angle i.e. 90deg back off remove drive pin from drive arm retract ram then try ether remove backing block pin or u clamp pin which both stuck. After watching the vids people remove drive pin retract drive arm then give there tube a sharp blow or jerk. Return the die back to zero deg or there abouts then the pins should pull straight out
https://youtu.be/PaGCzwYLhGg
About the 1.50min mark
Do you think that's what I'm doing wrong?
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2016, 11:05 PM
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That works, Thats the same ram im using so it wont retract under power. I have to loosen the Ustrap bolt and smack the tube like he did, but i use a deadblow as my meat hammer hurts after a few smacks...
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:08 PM
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Just a quick reply to the issue I was having I got it Sussed cheers guys I back the drive arm back slowly until I can pull the drive pin out only have to back off slightly, reverse drive arm all the way home hit the back end of tube with soft blow Hammer backing block pin pulls straight out then then loosen ustrap bolt remove ustrap so much easier now cheers heaps guys, back to bending 👍
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2016, 01:16 AM
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Sometimes all it takes is a love tap with a deadblow
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2016, 02:40 AM
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[IMG][/IMG]


My first attempt at bending something
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2016, 12:20 PM
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Did it come out as you expected?
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2016, 04:40 PM
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Yea turned out pretty much perfect, over bent one of the smaller angles but that's ok when I put my cross bar in it pushes it back out to where it should be, abit of back and forward with the notching but its sitting nice and snug in the car now, thinking of getting bend tech as spending so much time measuring and working out etc but seem to be managing so far just massive learning curve installing and trying to measure and hold tube in the car is a more suitable job for an octopus , I'll only really be building one model of car so once I got my measurements process should be heaps faster pretty happy for first timer tho 👍
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:44 PM
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Congratulations! Welcome to the world of bending. Hope you share more as you progress with the cage. What vehicle is it going in?
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2016, 09:57 AM
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This is my new production sedan speedway car I'm building (dirt track) cars are based on mas produced road cars there's 3 different classes depending on how much you like to modify the car there's street stock as it sounds the cars pretty much have to be stock ie all parts bought off the shelf from auto shop restricted tyre size etc this is cheap class although guys still spending 20 grand on a car then there's production sedans which I'm building you can modify abit adjustable suspension can cut a lot of weight out of car adjustable computers etc and and steel radial tyre about 30 grand gor a front runner
Next class up modified sedans can pretty much do anything full race rubber etc but car must still have the silhouette of the production based car. That's where I wanna be but it's purely cost too expensive for me. Front runner modified prolly go for 50 grand you could go late model racing for that.
Anyone here do dirt track?
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