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Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.


Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.

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  #161  
Old 01-05-2015, 02:25 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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I can't believe it's been over a month since I posted an update. I've been busy, just not necessarily on the car 100%.

I did finish up the tank mounting. One of the things that's a PITA with these tanks is that they're big and awkward, which makes getting things lined up to bolt it to the car rough, especially when you're working by yourself. One thing I did to address that was to make the lower mounting tabs with a step in them:



The step goes to the bottom, so the tank will drop in and sit on its mounting brackets until you get the bolts in it.

Here's a pic with the tank bolted to the car again and the engine installed:



Another issue with the fuel tank was the fitting for the fuel pickup. I bought the tank used, and the fitting had been damaged. The existing fitting was a special piece that was like a bulkhead fitting, with a hose barb on the inside for the pickup hose. The problem with this was that to remove the bladder from the outer tank, you had to pull the pickup hose off the barb. Not a problem with a new, soft hose, but after a season of soaking in methanol, the hose gets hard and makes it tough to remove/reinstall.

When I removed the bladder to install the new tank mounts, I had to cut the end of the pickup hose to get it off the fitting. I figured I would install a push-lock style -12 fitting into the pickup hose and use a regular bulkhead fitting to go through the tank and bladder. What I found out later was this bladder has a baffle in the bottom (good), but the pickup hose was permanently installed in it (bad), and was too short to get to a normal bulkhead fitting on the front of the cell ().

Machining ensued...

I made an extra long bulkhead fitting from bar stock to make up the difference and allow a fitting to be used in the pickup hose to make maintenance easier. I actually made two so I have a spare, just in case.



I also made up some aluminum washers to keep the tank/bladder from getting damaged by the fitting. Here's how everything stacks up. The nut is just a stock piece from Earl's.



And what it looks like from the outside of the tank, waiting on the rest of the plumbing.



The plan is to disassemble and get everything hard anodized when the car comes apart for paint. Methanol is aggressive toward aluminum, so hard anodizing will prevent my work from being corroded away.
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  #162  
Old 01-05-2015, 03:22 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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How long is that fitting? You can buy long bulkhead JIC fittings (even in stainless), but perhaps they aren't long enough for you?
http://www.amazonsupply.com/brennan-.../dp/B004I43AA6
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  #163  
Old 01-05-2015, 03:38 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
How long is that fitting? You can buy long bulkhead JIC fittings (even in stainless), but perhaps they aren't long enough for you?
http://www.amazonsupply.com/brennan-.../dp/B004I43AA6
Overall length is 5". The standard -12 bulkhead fitting I have is about 3.5" long. It looks just like the one you linked to, only scaled up. I've never seen an extra long version...I would have gladly paid a reasonable price for one if they're in mass production somewhere.
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  #164  
Old 01-20-2015, 02:09 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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More parts, working toward building an oil tank. I am a sucker for the older style cars that carry the oil tank outside the left frame rail. It's a little bump in left side weight, but they look too cool! They're also a pain to make and mount, and I'm trying to help myself a little with some machined parts.

First is an access panel to allow the tank to be cleaned a little more easily:



The outer ring was cut out of a chunk of 3/8" plate. The OD is 6" and it has a 4" hole in the center. It's tapped with 1/4"-20 holes to secure the cover plate. The cover plate is 1/8" thick. The two notches are to allow a pick or small screwdriver to get under the edge to break the seal of the silicone I'm planning to use to seal it. But, my dad asked me, "Are you going to make a gasket for it?", so that's also under consideration.

Next are the tank brackets. These will get welded on the back side of the tank to make it a bit easier to bolt to the car.



The plan is to use some short pieces of streamline tube to make the chassis brackets. The tank has to be spaced away from the chassis a little bit to allow clearance for the LR suspension wishbone.

Finally, the beginning of the tank itself:



The dimensions on this are 18" long by 14" tall by 4" wide. Capacity will be approximately 16 quarts, and I plan on running about 10 quarts of oil in the system. This is made out of 0.063" 3003 aluminum. The cylinder is the beginning of the air/oil separator that goes inside the tank. I have pre-punched the holes for the pickup and return fittings, as well as the drain plug to hopefully save a little trouble later.

Here's a little mod to the drain plug bung:



The cross hole is to allow the tank to drain completely. This is a -16 bung, and if the cross hole wasn't there, there would be approximately 1" of oil left in the bottom of the tank when it stops draining. I got female O-ring port bungs from ARP. This is my first time using them and I'm pretty impressed. I have developed a real strong dislike of pipe threads in aluminum after having a fitting gall in a pipe bung, causing some real difficulty to get it out.

I'm in the process of making a dimple die to finish up a piece for the air/oil separator, and I hope to post some more pics up in a couple days.
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  #165  
Old 01-20-2015, 02:21 PM
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MeanMike MeanMike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
First is an access panel to allow the tank to be cleaned a little more easily:



The outer ring was cut out of a chunk of 3/8" plate. The OD is 6" and it has a 4" hole in the center. It's tapped with 1/4"-20 holes to secure the cover plate. The cover plate is 1/8" thick. The two notches are to allow a pick or small screwdriver to get under the edge to break the seal of the silicone I'm planning to use to seal it. But, my dad asked me, "Are you going to make a gasket for it?", so that's also under consideration.
Looks really good.

O-ring the top. You know you want to, but you don't want to carry the heavy rotary table to the mill. At least that's usually my excuse.

I like the o-ring bungs so much, I bought -10, -8, -6 and -4 port tools and taps to machine my own in place. -12 and -16 I make a bung on the lathe and weld them in.
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  #166  
Old 01-20-2015, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MeanMike View Post
Looks really good.

O-ring the top. You know you want to, but you don't want to carry the heavy rotary table to the mill. At least that's usually my excuse.

I like the o-ring bungs so much, I bought -10, -8, -6 and -4 port tools and taps to machine my own in place. -12 and -16 I make a bung on the lathe and weld them in.
Thanks!

My concern on the access plate is that it's going to weep oil around the screws because they're through holes. I figure a bit of black silicone (or Yamabond) on the screws and the flange will keep that from happening.

Where did you source your port tools? I've got ideas for a few parts where it would be handy to machine them in place instead of welding in a bung.
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  #167  
Old 01-20-2015, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
Thanks!

My concern on the access plate is that it's going to weep oil around the screws because they're through holes. I figure a bit of black silicone (or Yamabond) on the screws and the flange will keep that from happening.

Where did you source your port tools? I've got ideas for a few parts where it would be handy to machine them in place instead of welding in a bung.
While you should have started out with 3/4" plate and run blind holes.
Having just this problem once I made up some 1/2" OD x 5/8"L bottom tapped aluminum 'cap nuts' which I welded to the bottom side and presto blind holes!

E

NOTE: You do not have to thread the Cap nuts just drill for nominal clearance.
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Last edited by entropy; 01-20-2015 at 07:31 PM.
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  #168  
Old 01-20-2015, 08:17 PM
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MeanMike MeanMike is offline
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Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
Thanks!

My concern on the access plate is that it's going to weep oil around the screws because they're through holes. I figure a bit of black silicone (or Yamabond) on the screws and the flange will keep that from happening.

Where did you source your port tools? I've got ideas for a few parts where it would be handy to machine them in place instead of welding in a bung.
The -8 I bought from MSC and it was expensive, but I had to have it for a project. The rest I've picked up of eBay as deals come up.
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  #169  
Old 01-21-2015, 08:14 AM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
Having just this problem once I made up some 1/2" OD x 5/8"L bottom tapped aluminum 'cap nuts' which I welded to the bottom side and presto blind holes!
I will give this some serious consideration. Thanks.

I finished up a 1-1/2" dimple die last night so I could make the top of the air/oil separator. The idea being the hole will allow air to escape and go out the tank vent, but the dimple will help keep the oil directed down into the tank.

Dimple die and the top of the separator:



And welded into the separator:

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  #170  
Old 01-28-2015, 10:57 AM
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Finishing up the oil tank...

Here are all the guts installed in the tank body before closing it up. I used a pair of 1" mandrel bends to make up the return line, but I was able to bend the 3/4" tube without a problem for the pickup. The pickup and air/oil separator got secured to the tank body with "A" rivets (solid rivets made from 1100 alloy aluminum) that were welded on the outside to seal them.



One issue I found with using O-ring fittings is the ID of the fitting is significantly larger than the corresponding hard line. I wound up sleeving the end of the pickup and return tubing with 1/4" larger, 0.125" wall tube to make up the difference, then welding that to the bung.

Here's how stuff looked before putting the top on the tank:



One last minute change I made was to vent out the back of the tank (that faces the car) instead of the top, so the fitting/line would be less visible on the finished product. I made a small baffle to cover the end of the bung so the path for oil to escape is less direct. It's not a huge issue because I'm venting the tank through the engine (vent line will go to the left valve cover), but I wanted to try to keep oil in the intended locations.

The finished product!



Fitting the top seriously tested my patience, but I got 'er done. The cap assembly is from Pro Werks (Chassis Shop) and it's a really nice piece.

The bottom, showing two of the mounts and the drain bung:



Back side, showing the access plate and vent:



One thing that doesn't show well in the photo is the back of the tank warped a bit on me from welding in the center. I've got a few ideas on how to fix it on the next one, one of which being to make the back/bottom out of 0.090" material instead of 0.063". The other thought I had was to use aircraft sealant on the rivets instead of welding them to seal them up. I guess the stuff they use to seal riveted wing tanks is pretty nasty, but does the job well.

Weld detail on the bungs:



Something clicked in my brain while I was welding this and I'm actually reasonably happy with the appearance of all the welds. Butt welding the seams was still tough but I don't feel the need to file them off. Bungs have always been extremely hit or miss for me (I just don't do enough of them) but these are all presentable. Hopefully I can carry this performance over to the radiator!

I have one more mount to add to the tank, but it will happen after I get the bottom mounts connected to the car, so I can see where the chassis tube it gets hooked to falls relative to the tank. That's tonight's project...
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  #171  
Old 01-28-2015, 11:23 AM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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After doing all this awesome work for so long, do you still sit back and look at it and think "damn, that is pretty f-in' awesome - I made that!"? How many of these have you built before this one?
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  #172  
Old 01-28-2015, 12:54 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
After doing all this awesome work for so long, do you still sit back and look at it and think "damn, that is pretty f-in' awesome - I made that!"? How many of these have you built before this one?
Smart-ass answer first: Only when I can look past all the flaws to see that I'm actually doing good work.

Real answer: Yes. This never gets old for me. This is actually only the second oil tank I have built. The first one was for the Hyder Hawk supermodified, which is also documented on this site. Learned a bunch on that one, learned a bunch on this one, too.

Metalworking is such a vast field that there is always something new to learn and do, and that's like a drug for me. I don't see it ever getting boring...if it does, I may have to take up golf.
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  #173  
Old 01-28-2015, 02:12 PM
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The tank is awesome. I especially love that all the corners are rounded, it def adds something to it.

Dan
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  #174  
Old 01-28-2015, 02:27 PM
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SNIP< ... I may have to take up golf.
I tried that once and the only interesting part was fabricating the Clubs.

E
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  #175  
Old 01-29-2015, 01:46 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
The tank is awesome. I especially love that all the corners are rounded, it def adds something to it.

Dan
Thanks! That's what I was going for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
I tried that once and the only interesting part was fabricating the Clubs.

E
I bet. When I was in college, the machining course I was in did putters out of stainless. I had no interest in golf, so I didn't keep one. I wish I had.
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  #176  
Old 01-29-2015, 01:50 PM
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MeanMike MeanMike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
Smart-ass answer first: Only when I can look past all the flaws to see that I'm actually doing good work.

Real answer: Yes. This never gets old for me. This is actually only the second oil tank I have built. The first one was for the Hyder Hawk supermodified, which is also documented on this site. Learned a bunch on that one, learned a bunch on this one, too.

Metalworking is such a vast field that there is always something new to learn and do, and that's like a drug for me. I don't see it ever getting boring...if it does, I may have to take up golf.
I feel the same way other than that golf crap. I find that I look for reasons to build more stuff. Now that build 2.0 on my car is almost done I'm going to have to start something new so I don't get bored. I do think I've had my fill of working on other peoples cars as a side job though.
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  #177  
Old 01-29-2015, 04:16 PM
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I do think I've had my fill of working on other peoples cars as a side job though.
I'm with you there. I have cut back to doing things for good friends only.
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  #178  
Old 01-30-2015, 09:18 AM
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Got the tank mounted to the car last night:



View from the front:



The mounting brackets on the car are made out of short pieces of 0.5" x 1.313" streamline tubing. I had some left over from another project, so it got put to use here.

Now the plumbing can begin...
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  #179  
Old 02-11-2015, 08:32 AM
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I finished up the oil system plumbing last night. Nothing earth-shattering, just always a challenge to fit the lines in the available space and make it look like someone knew what they were doing.

Left side of the engine:



Just your basic supply and return from the tank, all in -12. My pump is ported between the two scavenge stages so there's only a single return. I added a fitting to the valve cover for the tank vent so it's only a short hose to vent the tank. The black fittings are all the Earl's "Ano-Tuff" line, which are hard anodized. I figure that will help them last a little longer, plus I think the black looks cleaner. Looking at this pic, I sort of wish I had bought another black fitting for the vent line, but I had a bunch of used stuff in my inventory.



Going around the front of the engine. This was a bit of a squeeze to get the scavenge lines between the harmonic balancer and the chassis crossmember. Two 90 degree hose ends wouldn't fit, and using a 90 degree O-ring port fitting on the suction side of a pump is poor practice because it can cause cavitation. It had straight fittings on the pump and the lines ran under the harmonic balancer on the dyno, but low ground clearance won't allow that. I would up with a pair of 60 degree hose ends on the pump, and 45's on the bulkheads that go through the motor plate.



The right side just has a pair of short hoses that connect the pan to a pair of bulkhead fittings going through the motor plate. Using a large motor plate for structure makes life interesting! It doesn't show well here, but I'm running a pair of Peterson scavenge filters on the pan. Hopefully I'll never really use them, but I figure they're cheap insurance against pump (and other) damage.

Next up is the radiator (and a spare!).
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  #180  
Old 02-11-2015, 09:48 AM
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Very nice!
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