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Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.


Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.

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  #101  
Old 06-11-2014, 01:34 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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Did you put any locating features between the two plates or are they located just by tight fit with the 3 bolts? It looks like a nicely squared up block with a loosely squared up attachment. Your pivot could be off by 1/16th or more, which will definitely make the car handle like a horse-drawn carriage. Better scrap the whole thing :P
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  #102  
Old 06-11-2014, 02:16 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
Did you put any locating features between the two plates or are they located just by tight fit with the 3 bolts? It looks like a nicely squared up block with a loosely squared up attachment. Your pivot could be off by 1/16th or more, which will definitely make the car handle like a horse-drawn carriage. Better scrap the whole thing :P


I seriously thought about doweling the two pieces together, but at some point I actually have to build a car.



I've been machining all the pieces to make two of these brackets. Hopefully I'll have something worth photographing tonight.
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  #103  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:34 AM
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So here is where I'm at...getting close to having the first copy done.

Here's a pic of the fixture with all the bungs bolted up, before I started connecting the dots. I used a piloted counterbore tool to make the recessed bungs in one piece rather than welding something in the end of a short tube.



I had a bit of an "a-ha" moment when it came time to notch the tubes. I'm using 3/4" tube, which is smaller than my TN-250's jaws will close. I have a set of 5C collet blocks that I use on the milling machine, and I realized the hex block will fit in the notcher, so I used that to hold the tube. This won't work for every situation, but did a nice job for me on this project.



Here I've got the short tubes on the left side of the bracket added in:



And all the tubes in place:



Another shot of that:



I bought the 3/4" die for my bender a while ago for something specific, and I have found a ton of uses for it now that I have it on hand. It's surprising to me the amount of places it's handy to bend a small diameter tube.

Now I need to make some sheet metal gussets to stiffen the corners up a bit, and it will be ready to try out. Getting closer to having a roller again!
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  #104  
Old 06-12-2014, 11:20 AM
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That is damn cool. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and share. I really enjoy learning from you.
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  #105  
Old 06-16-2014, 08:41 AM
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Finished part, hot off the jig!



It bolts up OK...





Rear end back in the car.



Closeup of the left side.



And from the right side.



I made a spare bracket while I was at it, so I have two complete Watt's linkage assemblies at this point. I just need to shorten and lighten a few bolts, and make a few spacers to finish this up.

Next up are the rear bearing carriers (birdcages) that support the outboard ends of the axle and provide mounting points for the wishbones, shocks, and right side of the Watt's linkage. There is going to be at least one fixture involved in that process, so again it will be a race to see if I have more time in the fixture or the parts themselves.
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  #106  
Old 06-16-2014, 11:11 AM
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Racerx1194 Racerx1194 is offline
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you think your going to get out any this year
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  #107  
Old 06-16-2014, 01:56 PM
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It's looking doubtful that I will get to race it this year, but I would really like to hot lap it before winter to make sure everything works OK prior to painting it over the winter.
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  #108  
Old 06-17-2014, 02:05 PM
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chloeedad chloeedad is offline
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Grant have you seen the new Bull Dog rear quick change covers? Its called Vault Lock.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/DMI-RR...ver,93933.html
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  #109  
Old 06-17-2014, 05:19 PM
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I just saw it recently. It looks cool, but if I'm going to spend an extra $400 on a rear end it will be for something like titanium hardware or a swivel spline coupler. We don't change gears enough to make it a worthwhile investment.
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  #110  
Old 06-17-2014, 05:39 PM
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chloeedad chloeedad is offline
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Yeah kinda high right now...Until others start building them. Bull Dog started making a Quick Change for the mod lites but they are outrageous. I will stick with Winters.
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  #111  
Old 06-17-2014, 06:31 PM
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I wonder what's up with the Mod Lite pricing on rear ends. DMI has been pretty competitive on the full size sprint and supermodified rears. I would like to get a new rear from them at some point. They make an integral side bell center section that is drilled for through bolts so you can use brackets like the one I just made.
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  #112  
Old 06-24-2014, 08:32 AM
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I've started making pieces for the rear bearing carriers. These support the outboard ends of the rear axle and provide mounting points for the rear shocks, wishbones, and the Watt's linkage on the right side. They're are going to be fabricated from steel with a number of machined bits...the first of which are the lower shock mounts.

I started with 1-1/2" square bar, and turned a shank with a radius transition into what is going to turn into double shear lugs to mount the shock:



There's a 5/8" hole running down the length of the part to save a bit of weight.

After a few milling operations, it turned into this:



The top side is machined down to provide clearance for the adjuster knob on the shock eye. I have one more of these to finish up, then onto some wishbone brackets...
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  #113  
Old 06-30-2014, 02:37 PM
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As Johnny Cash said, one piece at a time...this time it's a wishbone bracket:



Now I need to machine the center barrel that holds the bearing, and this thing will be getting dangerously close to being a roller again.
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  #114  
Old 07-14-2014, 09:43 AM
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An update...

I got all the pieces of the right rear birdcage put together. It's done other than the final bore for the bearing, which was left undersize to I could finish machine after welding. I'm waiting until both sides are done so I can do them both at one time.

Here is the finished part, looking out away from the center of the car.



A little more detail of the shock bracket. The round tubing is 1-1/4" x 0.120" 4130.



A view from the top rear. The raised ring around the outside is over the snap ring groove to retain the bearing. I reduced the wall thickness as much as I felt comfortable with to get these as light as possible.



The center started life as a piece of 4.5" x 0.375" wall DOM tube, and was reduced to 4.375" x 0.188" wall in a lot of places, except for certain features like the added material over the snap ring groove and the bearing shoulder on the inside.

Front view of the wishbone bracket and Watt's linkage clevis:



Even though I don't have the bearing pressed in yet, I couldn't wait to mock things up just as a quick check. Here's an overall view with the wishbone and Watt's linkage attached:



A closeup from the front:



And from the top:



This shows how the Watt's linkage is packaged in there.

I have to make the center for the left side and weld it all together, and finish the bores on both pieces. Once I get shock brackets on both sides, the car will be a roller again...finally!

Last edited by Graham08; 07-14-2014 at 12:20 PM.
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  #115  
Old 07-14-2014, 04:18 PM
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I hope you powder coat those clear - they are WAY too pretty to cover up.
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  #116  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:38 PM
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I hope you powder coat those clear - they are WAY too pretty to cover up.
Thanks! I am hoping funds will be available to have all the steel bolt on parts nickel plated.
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  #117  
Old 07-23-2014, 01:59 PM
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I got the left birdcage all welded up last night. I'm getting closer to having a roller all the time!

First, here's a picture of my setup to do the lightening holes in these. I picked up a Hartford Super Spacer to do a paying job a while back, and it comes in really handy for stuff like this.



Here is the welded left birdcage:



A rear view:



And a quick mockup without the bearing:



This shot really shows the difference between the left and the right. The left wishbone is parallel to the frame, while the right goes out at a 10 degree angle because of the offset built into the car.



I'm planning on boring both pieces to size tonight and getting the bearings pressed in. I have ordered the mother of all snap ring pliers and the corresponding rings to retain the bearings.

After that, it's time for rear shock mounts on the frame, and I'll be setting it on the ground.
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  #118  
Old 07-24-2014, 02:17 PM
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I got the left birdcage bored to size, and the bearing pressed in:



It's probably because I'm not a professional machinist, but I'm always nervous doing press fits like this. I hit my dimension for the bore spot on for a 0.001" press of the bearing into the bore, and it pressed in without drama. The snap ring even went in without launching it across the shop!

Now I just need to pull the same trick off on the right side.

Of course I couldn't wait to mock it up with the bearing in place so I could verify the geometry is at least close.

Here's the view from the rear with the LR wheel pulled all the way in:



The lower shock mount is out in the wheel for a wide spring base.

And the view from the front:



The wishbone is parallel to the frame as intended. There's just enough clearance around everything to not have to worry about rubbing.

Hopefully this process goes just as smoothly for the right side.

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  #119  
Old 07-24-2014, 06:37 PM
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You are living the dream designing and building your own car from scratch. Simply bad ass.

What's on your task list after this is a roller? Beside sitting behind the wheel and going "vroom vroom" while the wife and kids push you around the neighborhood.
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  #120  
Old 07-24-2014, 06:41 PM
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Cool stuff Mr.G, thanks for sharing.
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