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Old 03-22-2008, 10:28 PM
jimmyjeep's Avatar
jimmyjeep jimmyjeep is offline
Junior Fabricator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Narrowing a rear end

I have a few 9" Ford and a Dana 60's that I'd love to whittle down to fit our v-8 s-10's. I bought the jigs, and have the welders. I would like to know, the best ways to shorten the housings. A friend gave me a 2"-4" pipe cutter that he says will leave an excellent cut. Some have said horizontal b-saw. Some say chop saw. Whats the best way. I like the pipe cutter idea. And when you jig it up and weld the new ends back on do you tig, mig or 7018 stick?? Looking for some help gang. Thanks.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:52 AM
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putter putter is offline
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 34
You may have trouble using the pipe cutter, most tubes are 3/16" wall or heavier. I have used my horizontal band saw with great results. If the tube ends are not very square to housing end on jig, I would try to square up end of tube with a grinder. On welding the ends I usually just mig weld them, but have also tigged them, usually in thirds like pipe welding. If you have the jigs with the correct spacers/donuts you should have no trouble.

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Old 03-23-2008, 01:12 AM
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entropy entropy is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: 95-miles from the center of Oregon.
Posts: 8,379
X2 Band Saw
When did empirical knowledge get replaced by a theoretical education?

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Old 03-23-2008, 01:20 AM
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Steve Steve is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Santee, Ca.
Posts: 246
We've done a few 9" rears - the easy way is to go full-floater & disk brakes. You can pretty much use any method to shorten the tubes (we use a chop saw). Then determine the ID of the tube and order a set of spindles (Speedway has these) that are a close, semi-press fit. We drill 4 radial holes in the tubes and rosette weld the spindles in and then weld around the tube. Assemble your hubs & disks and weld the caliper bracket to the tube. This is an easy way to do it for sure.

To retain the stock ends with drum brakes we made a couple "spuds" that are 3.060" that have a 1.5" hole in the center. These are bolted into the bearing retainers in the 3rd member and after installing the gasket the unit is bolted into the diff housing. We then insert a long 1.5" piece of cold rolled bar stock through the diff with enough sticking out each side to square up the weld-on ends to. A tack here and there and weld them up!
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Old 03-23-2008, 01:38 AM
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Captainfab Captainfab is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Coeur d'Alene Idaho
Posts: 2,738
X3 for the bandsaw

You may have to use a grinder to get a perfect fit, but as long as your saw is cutting reasonably straight it won't take much much to do. You'll want to bevel the joint also so as to get good penetration. Put 3 or 4 tacks around the joint, checking the alignment after each one, then weld it up.
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