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  #301  
Old 10-12-2017, 12:23 AM
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CarterKraft CarterKraft is offline
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Pfft some boost should straighten the air flow out.

Where the down pipe is closer to the fuel lines do you have any plans for that in the way of insulation? I used Al foil tape on the lines on my dad's suburban cause I was stressing about it a little, no idea if it helped or even mattered.
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  #302  
Old 10-12-2017, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKraft View Post
Pfft some boost should straighten the air flow out.

Where the down pipe is closer to the fuel lines do you have any plans for that in the way of insulation? I used Al foil tape on the lines on my dad's suburban cause I was stressing about it a little, no idea if it helped or even mattered.
Im planning on a ss heat shield, topped with some gold foil probably. They really arent THAT close, but I definitely still want something.

I have a plan for the ss piece, TBD if it works or not. So stay tuned I guess. hah


Dan
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  #303  
Old 10-12-2017, 10:15 AM
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Got some bonus garage time yesterday. Managed to get the charge pipe tacked up. I havent welded the elbow to the compressor yet, Im going to wait to do that once everything is together for realz.










Dan
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  #304  
Old 10-17-2017, 04:11 PM
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Late last week I finally addressed the issues with the shifter relay bracket that mounts to the rack. Just like other people my Meyle rack wasnt made exactly right so the bracket was clocked wrong. Since the rack is already refinished I decided to modify the bracket. Adding a couple small pieces of 3/16" steel to the two mounting locations took care of the issue.





With that now fixed, it shifted the relay lever upwards and into the header. I figured this might be an issue, but I didnt want the header design to be constrained by the shifter figuring I could fix it easy enough.

Before



Sectioned



Bent the two pieces to match, welded a plate of 1/8" over the joint and smoothed it all out.





After :thumbup:




Dan
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  #305  
Old 10-23-2017, 10:42 AM
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Had some free time sat am so I finished up the intercooler. I needed a filler but I hate inline fillers, plus I wanted it at the highest point so I added a neck right to the one end tank. A little section of aluminum tube, a 32mm neck, and Vibrant radiator cap did the trick. Also welded a -12 fitting for the inlet. Certainly not my best welding but the cast IC end tanks are certainly not the cleanest. It should look fine in wrinkle black powder.









With that done last night I made the mount for the IC pump. I started off with a $10 clamp which I cut up and welded to some 1/4" aluminum angle. Then welded a little box to the frame rail to mount it to.

Mount cut up (basically removed the mounting tabs) welded to some 1/4" angle and smoothed out.



Frame rail box made from 2" square tube with the end capped.



The assembly



Mount welded to frame rail and primed.



The whole smash mounted up.





Dan
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  #306  
Old 11-08-2017, 11:30 AM
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Back to work on this after an unplanned timing and water pump job on the Allroad.

Last night tackled the heater core return line. Its made from a stainless tube assy I bought off ebay. The one 45 I made as a two joint pie cut and then welded and smoothed to look like a 45. The only thing missing is a -6 fitting for the turbo water return but im currently out of stock.

Tacked up





Welded and smoothed. Again, just loving the Dynabrade. It makes short work of smoothing the welded joints





The smoothed out pie cut joint



Dan
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  #307  
Old 11-08-2017, 12:37 PM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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Looks good!
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  #308  
Old 12-07-2017, 11:06 AM
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Wow almost a month and no updates. I have been working on things just apparently forgot to upload pics and document.

I decided after doing all that work to get the 020 linkages and crap working I should swap to 02A transmission. :lol:

Picked up the 02A trans, 02J shifter, cables (which are wrong in this pic) from a friend. Also found a good 02J shift tower (no pics). And bought a set of S&P MK1 02A mounts.



Quickly realized that the shift box was going to be harder to fit with my exhaust setup. Not wanting to change the exhaust I spent so much time I it was obvious the shifter would need to change.



Pulled the shifter apart and started cutting



Made an aluminum cover. Its three pieces welded together and smoothed.





Perfect fit





With that done I switched focus to the alternator. Years ago I had planned to use a MK3 alternator, but the size of it and the position of the one plug just wansnt going to work with my new dual fan setup. I spent countless hours looking at images and sizes of alternators and finally found that a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Denso type alternator would fit the bill.

Machined a new top mount block on the mill at work. Then rounded off the edges on my router table.





And then cleaned it up with a maroon belt on the Dynafile.





Next was the lower mount / tensioner.

Clevis for the tensioner, using the rod end and adjuster I bought years ago. The clevis was made from some rectangular box tube I had laying around.





And after hours of screwing around I came up with this crazy bracket for the lower tensioner mount. I still plan to add some reinforcement to the sides, but its more or less done





It ties into the two mounts on the bottom of the block, and the water pump bolts.



Adjuster in place.



And mounted.





If anyone was wondering, I dont have a brake at the house for thicker plate so I whipped this up that I use in my vise. It works surprisingly well and way better than a hammer.



Next, it was time to figure out how to add a master cylinder to the factory pedal box. I looked at some ideas that others had done including fastbunnymetalworks and came up with something similar.



Made a bracket, again using my sweet brake shown above. its obviously not quite done, but very close. Hopefully Ill have it done this week.






That about catches up the progress on the project. Im sure I wont have a ton of time between now and new years, but Ill try to keep things updated should I move forward.

Dan
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  #309  
Old 12-14-2017, 04:55 PM
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Finished up the clutch master tues night.

Added a small wedge on the right side of the bracket to tie it into the pedal box better. Also had to shift the hole in the pedal arm up half a hole to get the alignment perfect. Took the opportunity to fatten it up in that area so I dont need spacers in the clevis.

Ive since sandblasted and primed it. Ill blow some black paint on it tonight and itll be done. Of course I need to drop the pedal arms back off to be re-powder coated.

Welded nuts to the backside for easier in-car swapping.


Nutserts in the cowl area for the top mount.


Finished assy.




Dan
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  #310  
Old 01-02-2018, 02:04 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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Lots of great details there. Thanks for taking the time to share everything even though there haven't been a lot of comments. I really appreciate all the added details/explanation on top of what you post to Instagram.
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  #311  
Old 01-03-2018, 10:48 AM
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Thanks Clint! I figure at least post it for posterity.

With the column done it was time to get back to the trans mounts and shifter bits.

When I first test fit the 02A S&P mounts I noticed that while they fit fine, they seemed to locate the motor in a different spot than the OE mounts for the 020. This was not acceptable as I had already done the exhaust among other things with it in the original position. I struggled with a way to locate it the same but eventually came up with this.

Installed the original 020 trans and mounts, and used my hydraulic table and wooden cradle to hold it in place with the upper trans mount removed. Then made a jig that located the trans mount to the body.



With that set I pulled the motor back out then made another jig to act like the trans mounts on the body. I made a wooden disc to take place of the rubber trans mount insert as I didnt want to press it in and have it damaged from welding etc.



And there we have the difference between the mount I bought and where I need it. The sharpie markings were my best guess based on some measurements I was trying do do with the transmissions on the bench, not bad.



Cut the mount up. and started welding in new sides. I did them in two pieces, welded top and bottom as I didnt have the correct box tubing. A couple of 0.025" ss spacers were used between one of the legs and the trans to allow space for paint/ powder.







The we skip a bunch of steps where I weld in extra steel to even out the top, then some silicon bronze for the radii and fillets.



Clearance for the reverse switch



Close up of the finish.



I do need to take about 0.1" off the bowtie piece of the Diesel Geek shifter plate so it doesnt interfere with the mount. Most people window the side of the mount but it doesnt look as good and since Im not using the stock shift linkage its just not necessary.

Up next the shift cables.

First test fit them with the oe trans bracket and they fit perfectly.



However, when I went to double check the fit of the charge pipe there was an issue since when I did the turbo setup there were no cables...



I decided to lower the cable bracket vs smashing in the charge pipe. But first I needed to remove this:



Cut up the oe bracket and welded it to a new base plate.



Added some sil-brz and created a nice fillet and finished.




I also had to tweak the lower trans mount by redrilling the holes in a slightly new spot to get it to fit, but no pics.

Up next: Intercooler mount.

Dan
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  #312  
Old 01-08-2018, 02:11 PM
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Got a pic of the previously mentioned lower trans mount bracket. Basically I just had to weld up the original holes and drill two new holes for the mount. Sharpie marks are about where the original holes were located. So that finishes up all the mount mods needed.





Next I needed to add a little clearance between the DieselGeek shifter plate and the trans mount. I simply ground about 0.1" off the plate. I also didnt like that there were two stacked plates so I welded the edges together and ground smooth. Much better.



Then I came up with mounts for the intercooler. Its likely overkill, but I think it looks cool and is functional without having a huge plate or something else supporting it.





This was fun. I ended up doing the bottom few dabs with silicon bronze so as to not ruin my blend job.



Mount blended.



Reverse switch and connector still fit!



A few shots of the almost complete assembly.











Yesterday I just did a bunch of little nonsense.

Swapped the bypass valve cover from the plastic one to a billet one.





Ground all of the 020 shifter lever tabs off of the steering rack.



Added the bulkhead for the hydro clutch



Reassembled the steering column so I can do the clutch hard line since the banjo fitting for the master arrived.



Dan
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  #313  
Old 01-08-2018, 02:27 PM
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entropy entropy is offline
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Really well thought out & nice work!

It never ceases to amaze me just how big the plumbing on a little 4-cyl turbo engine is!


E
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  #314  
Old 01-08-2018, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
Really well thought out & nice work!

It never ceases to amaze me just how big the plumbing on a little 4-cyl turbo engine is!


E
Yea, a 3" downpipe seems so huge, but BW must know what they are doing...

Dan
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  #315  
Old 01-10-2018, 01:35 PM
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Finished up the shifter.

Cleaned up all the factory parts, replaced the main "bearing" for the shifter arm, and the little rubber insulator for the side/side spring, bead blasted and matte cleared the housing, installed the ss mounting studs (two of which I had to trim to lenght b/c nfw I could leave them diff lenghts), and added some gold foil to the bottom cover.









Made the hard line for the clutch master.



Then decided I best put EVERYTHING back in to be sure im not missing anything big and that there are no issues. So far so good.



Still need to get the HX mounted an make up the last two lines for it to the pump and IC. Hoping to have that done this weekend, but we'll see.

Dan
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  #316  
Old 01-15-2018, 11:58 AM
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Sat I made the mounts for the heat exchanger. Naturally the storm messed up my Summit shipment so I wasnt able to weld the AN bugs on but at least its mounted now.

My super high tech fixture for the lower brackets.





Cut out a section of box tubing to make the top brackets and welded them on.









Bingo



Next, I refused to use the giant self tapping screws or whatever to mount the fan shroud so I added some 10-24 brass inserts.







Then switched gears to work on some other parts for the body while I wait for parts.

Hood hinges smoothed, dimples filled with silbrz and the "hooks" removed.



Then I decided to tackle the trunk lid. Since Ill be shaving the lock I needed to add an acuator.

Original mech



Trimmed and bent the rod to attach to a door lock actuator.



10-24 nutserts fit perfecly in the OE holes for the cardboard panel that went over this area.



Added an aluminum plate. Works mint.



Finally I started shaving the holes from the emblems. Oh the days before two sided tape....



Dan
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  #317  
Old 01-15-2018, 04:06 PM
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CarterKraft CarterKraft is offline
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Excellent work as usual. Still amazed...

I need to dabble with the Silicon bronze some, they would really help on some of my powder coated parts.
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  #318  
Old 01-15-2018, 10:55 PM
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Rokcrler Rokcrler is offline
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Dan, dont think that your thread goes unread man... i love the clean work you do and just sit back and gawk. Your attention to detail is top notch man.
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  #319  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:34 AM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Nice work on all of this! I like the brass inserts to avoid using sheet metal screws...those have their application, but I like to avoid them on things that I'm working on if possible.
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  #320  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:34 AM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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Thanks guys. Im reallllly hoping to be done with mechanical stuff really soon so I can focus on the body. Seems like Im always waiting for the last few parts, heh.

More to come tomorrow.

Dan
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