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  #481  
Old 05-12-2012, 03:07 PM
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Looking good!
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  #482  
Old 05-13-2012, 08:44 PM
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First: Awesome build. Found it through the Gone Postal build on Pirate. I'm looking at a '76 DJ5D, and this build has a lot of the styling I was thinking of when I pictured how a tricked out DJ5 should look.

I had a couple questions if you don't mind.

1. When are the action shots going to be posted?

2. Would you say 245/45R17 is the butter zone for 17's on a axle-flipped PJ?

3. At this point in the build, do you think you would notch the rear of the frame like you did the front, or would you still build the rec tube inserts in the rear? In either case, why do you feel that way?

4. Do you happen to remember the up travel you had before the front notch?

Thanks in advance.
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  #483  
Old 05-14-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altec View Post
First: Awesome build. Found it through the Gone Postal build on Pirate. I'm looking at a '76 DJ5D, and this build has a lot of the styling I was thinking of when I pictured how a tricked out DJ5 should look.

I had a couple questions if you don't mind.

1. When are the action shots going to be posted?

2. Would you say 245/45R17 is the butter zone for 17's on a axle-flipped PJ?

3. At this point in the build, do you think you would notch the rear of the frame like you did the front, or would you still build the rec tube inserts in the rear? In either case, why do you feel that way?

4. Do you happen to remember the up travel you had before the front notch?

Thanks in advance.
Thanks Altec,

Glad to hear that this build can inspire someone elses build.

Gone Postal's build has even given me some more ideas, for future projects.

I my mind it seems like that's the way it should be everyone helping/inspiring each other, just glad I can be part of it.



I'll give your questions a shot...

1. Unfortunately as time and $$ allow. (Wish it was soon, but will probably still be later..... )

2. 245/45R17 sounds about right. I'm leaning towards the 17s as a matter of being poor. The local used tire places have loads of half used performance rated 17s for 1/4 of the price of new. In terms of being able to drive it hard and not go broke in the process, they just make sense. Plus PJs will take them, hell I've got 255/60R15 on the back now and there's still more room in the wheel wells. Really the big drawbacks are the 5x5.5 wheel pattern, and relatively narrow axle widths. It really limits the wheel size and backspacing/offset choices. For the bolt pattern, Pro-Comp has a 17x9 wheel with low enough backspacing to clear in the back. They are pretty heavy for street wheels (38lbs ea, I think...), which will just reenforce the problem of unsprung weight with the solid axles. The really low back space/neg offset will mess with the steering/handeling as well. Then again with wide front wheels and a manual steering box, it's not exactly an ideal setup.

3. As far as the rear notches..... Good question. I'm really happy with how the tube inserted into the rails worked. I feel like it took alot of the apprehension of tweaking the frame rails out of the equation, which is not to say that I didn't measure the rails and notches at least a dozen times to be sure. The rear of the frame also had two crossmembers that were in the way of the notche assemblies, so unlike the front I wouldn't have been able to build the notches over the existing structure and then cut them out. I think it kind of comes down to personal preference, or situation.

4. The uptravel in the front, with the stock leaf spring mounts was 3-4 inches. I'm running modded YJ leafs with a flipped eyes and flattened main leaf and shackles off the front bumper. With my leaf setup and the stock rails, there was 1/2-3/4" of space between the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail.

Hope that helped, feel free to ask questions anytime.

Later,

Jeff
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  #484  
Old 05-14-2012, 06:59 PM
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Thanks for the response! Completely understand on money limitations. I was looking at the 17's for the same reason. Cheap, and the wheel-to-sidewall ratio is good for my particular likings. I grew up drag racing, so small side walls didn't fly...

Gotcha on the rear notch. Now that I think about it, the tubing was probably a better way without adding a bunch for fuss to the process.

I gotta admit, I didn't think the front axle question through. I didn't look all that close at the axle setup on the one I'm getting, and assumed since the rear is spring-over, the front was as well. Obviously not the case now that I looked at it today. @ Looking at the back of a '78 that I'm working on at the shop I work at (What are the odds?) the springs on it look like they are so worn it would simple sit on the frame if you flipped it. The front is right at where you said, 3-4".

I guess I need to figure out the most practical method to get a DJ5 sitting lower for a DD. Although all the signs are pointing to exactly the route you've taken.

Maybe I'll have to start a thread when I pick the DJ up. :)
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  #485  
Old 05-25-2012, 09:23 AM
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No problem Altec.

Work and home have been crazy busy, but I've squeezed in a bit of planning and work on the PJ.

I was trying to figure out the best way to get the body lifted up enough to allow the finishing of the back body mounts, and a bunch of painting.

Previously, I've taken it completely off and stood it on it's own back, in our car port. With the wet weather and wind lately, it didn't seem like a very good option. After talking with a few guys at work I was able to line up a bunch of 4x4 and 4x6 chunks of beam to allow me to simple block the body up over the frame.

This resulted in 8-10 inches of clearance to work on things....





This is going to allow me to coat the rest of the underside of the body with POR15, weld up the back of light fixture into the bumper, finish gusseting and weld up the rear body mounts, and when done finally be able to permanently bolt the body onto the chassis.

I also made a nice discovery this week regarding the fuel cell I built. I've been working on another project, refinishing the bottom/sides of an old claw foot tub. After stripping and wire wheeling it, I picked up the POR15 and prep supplies.

Their Marine clean and Metal Prep worked very well, but didn't really require much quantity, so I have 95% of both left. I had remembered looking at the POR15 gas tank sealing kits back when I started in on the cell (probably about this time last year....) and remembered seeing those two products as part of the kit.

A little bit of research and I find that they are 2/3 of the kit the only thing I'm missing is the actual sealer. Great, I think, that's probably the really expensive part.... Start looking at just quarts of sealer, still like $40. PORs website says that is for a 25 gallon tank. Well, the PJ's tank is nowhere near that big.... let's go smaller....

Pint, like $20 and good for 17 gallon tank.

Perfect.

So instead of $80 or so for their kit, a $20 pint of sealer off of Amazon and the fuel cell should be ready to do it's thing.

The down side to all of this goodness is squeezing the time out of the daily schedule to make it happen.

I'm hoping that with a little luck and a few holiday weekends, to have all of this done by 1st or 2nd week of July, realistically.

I've got tons of little detail projects to work into that as well, but once the bodies back on the focus is going to be starting this thing.

If it runs I'm going to want to push that much harder to get it driveable.

Thanks to everyone who keeps visiting the build, even through my glacier slow progress.



-Jeff
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  #486  
Old 05-25-2012, 10:03 AM
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Thanks to everyone who keeps visiting the build, even through my glacier slow progress.
Your rate of progress is about normal for someone that is not building for a living.
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  #487  
Old 05-29-2012, 03:00 PM
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Made some progress over the weekend.

One of the first thing on the to do list for the chassis was to weld up the new rear body mounts.

I had tacked them in previously from the under side and need to cut some braces, and fully weld them.

Started out with,

DS....



PS...



A little bit of work, and.... TA DA!!!!





I know, I know not super bling, but they'll get the job done and there are 2 more bolts that go in the sheet metal flange at the back of the body, that act as mounts as well.

All of this is in addition to the eventual frame tie ins for the C pillar of the roll cage.

More progress to come soon.

Thanks for checking it out,

Jeff
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  #488  
Old 06-18-2012, 03:11 PM
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Quick update,

Been stupid busy with OT at work, but have still been eaking out some progress.

The rear frame and underside of the rear C notch are all painted up.

The back up light housing is welded into the rear bumper.

And finally the body is actually bolted down, hopefully for good.

Up next is B and C frame tie ins, and then fuel plumbing and see if the motor runs.....


Later,

Jeff
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  #489  
Old 06-25-2012, 08:34 PM
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Hay Blind Studios I went through the thread and I must have missed it, but don't see how you moved the front axle forward without moving the steering box.

I have a 76 PJ that I'm about to drop and I can't see another way to stretch the 5" in need without moving the box. My plan is to use a CJ hood and fenders so the stretched front frame will look right.



V
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  #490  
Old 06-27-2012, 09:40 AM
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Hi Milky,

I only moved my front axle forward by 3", which is as much as I determined I could stretch the front without having to relocate the steering box.

The 3" move brings the drag link more parellel (sp??) to the tie rod, but not beyond.

Then I made up the difference by adding 3" to the back section of the front fenders, and since mine are tube, it was pretty straight forward.

With a five inch stretch I would imagine you're planning on using a different spring setup, or just moving the stockers?? The stock front springs are very short and narrow, and I didn't think them a good canidate for reuse.

Then again if you're as far in as remounting/placing new springs the box mount is really easy to pull off the frame rail, remark, drill, sleeve and mount to get whatever length you would need or want.

Hope that helps.

I've been making progress on the C pillar frame tie ins. Not picture worth yet, but getting there.

-Jeff
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  #491  
Old 06-29-2012, 09:48 PM
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Thanks Jeff.

My plan is to use XJ rear springs in the rear to the move the axle back and run a Dodge factory 17" steel wheel. I'm just wanting to fill the wheel well up and tuck a decent size tire.

On the front I'm thinking TJ/XJ right hand drive steering power steering box with a TJ pitman arm(which has a shorter than the PJ pitman arm), bastard CJ/DJ leaf spring pack, and move beam axle forward to clear the 232 oil pan.

The crazy thing is your front beam axle has completely outers than mine. Mine has what look like Dana 30/44 inner "C's" and knuckles instead of the old king pin style you have. I'm hoping that I'll be able to swap some disc brakes off a CJ Dana 30 or older Ford Dana 44 and dump the drums.

You build is top shelf for sure. Thanks for the insperation.


V
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  #492  
Old 06-30-2012, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milky View Post
Thanks Jeff.

My plan is to use XJ rear springs in the rear to the move the axle back and run a Dodge factory 17" steel wheel. I'm just wanting to fill the wheel well up and tuck a decent size tire.

On the front I'm thinking TJ/XJ right hand drive steering power steering box with a TJ pitman arm(which has a shorter than the PJ pitman arm), bastard CJ/DJ leaf spring pack, and move beam axle forward to clear the 232 oil pan.

The crazy thing is your front beam axle has completely outers than mine. Mine has what look like Dana 30/44 inner "C's" and knuckles instead of the old king pin style you have. I'm hoping that I'll be able to swap some disc brakes off a CJ Dana 30 or older Ford Dana 44 and dump the drums.

You build is top shelf for sure. Thanks for the insperation.


V
No prob, Milky...

Make sure to check the back spacing on the dodge wheels. It seems like even trucks now days have pretty high backspacing. I looked at the factory dodge 17's and 20's, but the backspacing would have left them sucked way in, due to the narrow axles.

I seem to remember reading that the later axles have the Dana 30 C's. Either way, Dana 30/44 a disc swap should be not too bad.

Thanks for the kind words.


And now I actually have decent update for you guys.

I've been trying to wrap my head around the best way to finish out the C pillar/Rear X frame tie ins.

My first plan was some 90 degree bends up off the side of the frame rails.



And then that would kinda of tie over to the rear X's plate on the middle left.



Playing with the parts I wasn't getting a good fit, things just weren't lining up. A bit of measuring and I determined that I would have to be placing the frame end of the tube on top of my rear shackle mounts to have to actually in the correct position.....

Well that sucks.....

So I've been following a slightly different PJ build over on Pirate. A very cool 4x4 conversion.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...988300&page=21

Checking out his build pointed my in the right direction, post#503 to be exact.

( His build is WELL worth the read, some very cool stuff)

Anyways, I couldn't very well mount the tie tube on top of the shackle mount but just in front of the mount proved to be the ticket.

Passengers side...



And the driver side....



The drivers side tube is pretty tight to the back up light, which I welded in a week or so ago, but there is still plenty of room to get in and weld it all up.

Speaking of the back up light, I snapped a few pics....



And with the lens set in place....



Back to the tie ins....

I added reenforcing plates to the frame rails where the tube lands and at the back they butt up against the welded on 1/4" C channel bumper.

With the lower tubes tacked in I added vertical tubes up to the sandwich plate under the C pillars, and tacked those in place.



From those vertical tubes I notched placed and tacked a short horizontal runner over to the sandwich plates for the rear X tubes...



With both sides tacked in, the wheels were put back on and the PJ set on the ground to check clearances to the tie ins.



It's hard to judge in the picture, but there is right about four inches of clearance between the tire and tube. Even with the suspension travel moving the tire to the back there is plenty of room.

All in all, I'm pleased with how they turned out. I have finish welding to do, and most likely some gussets just to be safe.

Any opinions on gusseting these???

Once these are welded complete and painted I'll be onto the A/B tie ins and then sealing the tank.

As always, Thanks for checking it out!!

-Jeff
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  #493  
Old 07-05-2012, 11:21 AM
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Busy day yesterday....

I broke out the leathers and prepared to weld upside down and backwards.

Started in on the frame re-enforcing plates intially.



From there I just worked my way around slowly, moving from area to area so as not not get too much pull on the tubes.

The view up, from the ground...



All in all, the welds really weren't that bad to reach. Only a couple of them were tough to reach.







Of course, having a decent size wheel well and no tire in place helped quite a bit.

After those had cool for a couple hours, I cleaned them all up and hit both sides with a coat of POR-15.





Turned out nice and that's one more thing off the list.

Then it was time to fit the boner bar....



You know.... to give it that "real" Jeep look....

And prevent it from endoing on those steep decents....




Just kidding. Acutally just a guard that was on my DD when I bought it, and has been taking up space in the shack, as of late.

Again.... no plans to acutally put that on the PJ....

Well that's it for now.

Up next is the A/B pillar frame tie ins, and then on to sealing the tanks.

Thanks for check it out.
-Jeff
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  #494  
Old 07-05-2012, 01:26 PM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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I haven't tried welding upside down yet, yours look pretty good.
Boner bar lol.
I've always wondered what they are for.....is it really tip over prevention on descents? I can't see that helping too much....well, maybe....

Richard
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  #495  
Old 07-06-2012, 12:22 AM
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I haven't tried welding upside down yet, yours look pretty good.
Boner bar lol.
I've always wondered what they are for.....is it really tip over prevention on descents? I can't see that helping too much....well, maybe....

Richard
Thanks Richard,

I appreciate the feed back. I was pretty happy with all of my welds on those tie ins.

That was my understanding that the really big stingers were to prevent tips while descending. Maybe more of a comp rig type of thing??

I guess the smaller ones are mostly just kind of grill guards???? And at some point they jumped the shark at got put on mall crawlers, cause, "it looks good"

Oh well, guess the PJ will just have to rely on it's natural "good looks" to impress people....

-Jeff

Last edited by Blind Studios; 07-09-2012 at 08:54 AM.
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  #496  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:38 AM
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Mods can we get these 2 spam posts deleted??

Thanks,

-Jeff
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  #497  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:49 AM
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Mods can we get these 2 spam posts deleted??

Thanks,

-Jeff
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  #498  
Old 07-09-2012, 08:52 AM
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Thanks E!!

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  #499  
Old 07-09-2012, 10:24 AM
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Thanks E!!

I didn't do anything, I just know how good the mods are on this board.
All the thanks go to them
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  #500  
Old 07-09-2012, 02:13 PM
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My mistake then, E.


Thanks to the Mods.

-Jeff
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