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  #361  
Old 04-20-2011, 10:16 AM
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Quick update....

I got the C pillar tube intersections welded up last weekend, but just bairly.

Sorry no pics...

Between selling a car, looking at something new, and some work around the house I haven't been getting much done on the PJ.

Currently it's buried under the pile of spare parts I have for the Celica (doors, trans, hatch, steering rack, hub/strut assemblies.....)

Hopefully the guy who bought it will be after the spares this weekend, and I'll be back on the PJ fully.

One bit of progress I picked up a very short (14") driveshaft at an estate sale 2 weekends ago which with a bit of lengthening will be perfect for the PJ.

More to come soon....

-Jeff
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  #362  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:40 PM
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Finally got a bit of time to get back on the PJ.

I started on some tube gussets for the B hoop, pillar to cross bar.

I was going to try some fancy bent gussets, so I broke out the bender and made a couple of pieces.

The notches aren't right but you'll get the idea.

This was the result...



That didn't quite look right....

So instead I notched the cut offs from the bends, and came up with something I liked better.



The kinked gussets were just sitting there staring at me. I knew there had to be a good place on the PJ for them.

The crossmember at the front of the notches was still needing some gusseting.

This is how it's sitting...



But it would look WAY cooler with these in there...



A little bit of trimming and these will be SWEET.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the B pillar gussets welded in, and trim the crossmember gussets to fit the frame rails.

Thanks for checking it out.

-Jeff
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  #363  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:52 AM
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So I've been back at it more in the last couple of days.

Started with trimming the re-purposed radiused gussets to fit up against the flat side of the inside, of the front notch.



The overall effect, makes the chassis look much better.



All most like that's what I intended from the start, although I only stumbled on to idea be accident.

They still need to be welded in. For now they're just sitting on some magnetic squares, lookin' pretty.

The other area I've been working on is gusseting the B hoop. There isn't room to do a proper X across the opening, due to seating position.

After reading a bunch in different forums, I came across a thread where the guy had modeled a bunch of different cage configurations. He then loaded the structures to see the effects of different forces, different bracing/gusseting, and different roll cage layouts.

A link to it....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/s...l-cage-631178/

It's a bit of a read, but quite interesting.

Anyways, what I took from it was that even a good 45 deg tube gusset would add noticeable strength to the structure.

So that's what I did.



Two gussets per side. The lowers are 9" and uppers are 10". No real reason behind the 1" difference, that's just what I happened to have as left over pieces.



The advantage to these smaller gussets is that they maintain the head room around the the driver and passenger.



And an over all shot....



The B hoop gussets are mostly welded in, a little bit more welding today and that will be taken care of.

The roll cage is almost complete, aside from a few more tie-in plates from the cage to the body.

Are there any places you guys feel are critical to be reinforced??

Once I have the fuel cell in and mounted I planning on a back to front tube in the middle-ish of the rear opening.

Which actually leads me to the next issue.

I purchased a polly fuel cell from Summit a while back, thinking that I could get the rear X bars far enough back in the rear door opening to allow me to set it behind the rear notch and in front of the X.

Unfortunately, that is no longer the case. To use the cell as it is now would mean setting it on top of the notch, and bringing it way up in the rear structure.

I think now it's going to be better to have a cell fabbed to conform to the space that's available and transfer the hardware from the polly cell into the new piece.

Problem is I don't have the knowledge or tools to do this.

From what I've been reading it's between like a 7075 Aluminum or Stainless steel.

I've read about the aluminum cracking at the seams due to flex, and with the fuel cell behind the driver, I certainly don't want that.

Stainless would of course, be more expensive but should be superior in durability.

I planning on a fairly extensive mount for the cell, supporting on fabricated rails. ( No 3/4" straps here.....)

I would appreciate any input you guys could offer.

Well, more welding on the menu for today. Once the gussets and B pillar tie-in plates are in, I will be switching over to the thinner wire and getting after welding some of sheet metal back in.

As usual, Thanks for checking it out.

-Jeff
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  #364  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:33 AM
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From what I've been reading it's between like a 7075 Aluminum or Stainless steel.
-Jeff
Cough~Mild Steel~cough,cough


Ahemm...
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-...-for-cars.html
If that would make you feel mobettah
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  #365  
Old 04-29-2011, 11:07 AM
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Ok, so just fab it up out of some 16/18 gauge steel in the shape I want, seal the inside with the Eastwood kit, and transfer my fittings from the polly cell??

Is it really that straight forward???

-Jeff
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  #366  
Old 04-29-2011, 12:08 PM
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Ok, so just fab it up out of some 16/18 gauge steel in the shape I want, seal the inside with the Eastwood kit, and transfer my fittings from the polly cell??

Is it really that straight forward???

-Jeff
Basically, yes it is that simple.
Now, I would eliminate as many welds with bends as I could so if it is a rectangle for example I would try to make three bends and have one welded seam om the long side. I would use flange welds where I could because they will control warping and I would use 16-Ga.
You have fabricated far harder things on this build, don't let a simple tank fake you out.

When you get the tank done, mix up 50/50 water and dish soap and take masking tape and tape the bungs shut then wrap a rag around an air-nozzle and hold in to the filler neck and pressurize the tank (2-PSi is plenty) then spray the seams and look for bubbles... Reweld if necessary; no leaks then seal the inside of the tank mainly for rust protection, verify that the sealer will hold up to alcohol!
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  #367  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:03 PM
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Cough~Mild Steel~cough,cough
Weren't you recommending stainless for tanks not too long ago due to all the "stuff" they put in gasoline these days? I could be mistaking.

Blind Studios, if you decide to build a tank, here's a link you may find useful:
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...ank/index.html
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Last edited by TheBandit; 04-29-2011 at 01:10 PM.
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  #368  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:30 PM
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Weren't you recommending stainless for tanks not too long ago due to all the "stuff" they put in gasoline these days? I could be mistaking.

Blind Studios, if you decide to build a tank, here's a link you may find useful:
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...ank/index.html
No, you are correct, however when that options is off the table for cost reasons what is left; and that is the reason I noted the alcohol requirement in the sealer.
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  #369  
Old 04-30-2011, 12:29 PM
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E, what kind of price range would you guesstimate for at alum/stainless cell shell, about 10-12 gallon size???

I will probably fab it out of steel, but just out of curiosity....

So, I ended up getting a SOLID day in on the PJ yesterday.

I managed to finish welding up the B hoop gussets, and get the chassis gussets about 60% welded before running out of the .035 wire for the welder.



I am really loving the ascetic of front crossmember with the curved gussets in there...



I ended up pulling the front clip (only about 15 mins to do so) and lay down some good solid welds. After I ran out of wire, I stuck it all back together.

It's amazing how well the front engine compartment/clip fits together.

Moving on....

With the .035 run out, it was just a sign that it was time to move on to rewelding the sheet metal cut outs on the roof.

The thinner wire, gas, panel clamps, and copper spoon made a ridiculous difference in the ease of working with the sheet metal.

Where as with the .035 wire it was a quick tack, over and over; the .020 wire and gas makes for a nice even burn and easy stitches.



As per SOP (standard operating procedure) I moved around the DS welding.

Small stitches, moving around the panel and allowing the panel to cool before going again worked very well.



I managed to get the DS access panels all started back in place. I've got a bit more welding to do to finish that side up.

My plan is to get the PS panels to the same state and then just work my way around and around until every thing is one piece again.

While I was waiting for the PS panels to cool I also did some test welding on a some scrap tube/sheet that were the same size as my B pillar and B pillar tie-in plate.

The welder managed good penetration on both materials, and so as the final little job yesterday, I stitched the B pillar tie-in plate into the PJ.



I am happy with the result.

The whole assembly is quite rigid, and still leaves plenty of room in the interior. (relatively.... )

On the plan for today is..... more welding.....

I should have the PS panels back in place and be able to almost finish the DS.

Once the panels are all the way back in, it will be time to focus on the battery mount, and the new shell and mounting for the fuel cell.

As usual,

Thanks to everyone for checking it out!!

-Jeff
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  #370  
Old 04-30-2011, 01:18 PM
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E, what kind of price range would you guesstimate for at alum/stainless cell shell, about 10-12 gallon size???
Stainless: $180 to say $230 depending maybe a bit less if you can find drops.
There are several shops out between you and Portland that do stainless that "MIGHT" let you look in their scrap bins and or have some rem'z.

Alum I'd say 1/2 that but you will need a TIG for it.
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  #371  
Old 04-30-2011, 04:06 PM
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Man, this thing is progressing awesomely! I like how clean you are able to put the body back together after cutting the holes for the cage welding.

While I haven't posted much in this thread, I'm subscribed to it and I'm here every time I see a new update to check out . Great work man, pleasure to watch!
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  #372  
Old 04-30-2011, 04:58 PM
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Use that sekerit hand shake I sent you, you never know what could happen...
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  #373  
Old 04-30-2011, 11:15 PM
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I'll say it agian, love the build, hay i just braught home a 1950 CJ3A, since you are just down the '5' maybe some of your jeep will rub off on my ugly one?!?!?!?!
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  #374  
Old 05-02-2011, 10:13 AM
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I'll say it agian, love the build, hay i just braught home a 1950 CJ3A, since you are just down the '5' maybe some of your jeep will rub off on my ugly one?!?!?!?!
At least it's an 3A, and not a 3B. Otherwise we'd have to shun you.....

If I could fit in a flat fender I'd love to have one, but at 6'3" probably isn't going to happen....

So I made more progress Saturday and Sunday on the PJ.

The PS B pillar tie-in plate found it's way into place...



Most of the rest of the time was spent on the PS sheet metal, starting to stitch it back into place.

Sorry no pics of the PS sheet metal, there's really not much in the way of exciting progress.

I did manage to run myself out of sheilding gas which brought the progress to a halt.



After that I turned my attention to starting to figure out what kind of shape I was going to need for the new fuel cell shell.

Here's a rough idea of what I've got so far....



I need to do some serious planning for the fuel system, including cell mounts, filter mount.

More on that soon.....

For now, I may focus on that until I can restock all the supplies, and get back to welding up the sheet metal.

Thanks for checking it out,

Jeff
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  #375  
Old 05-02-2011, 10:16 AM
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While I haven't posted much in this thread, I'm subscribed to it and I'm here every time I see a new update to check out . Great work man, pleasure to watch!
Thanks Pancake,

Hear postive feed back really keeps me motivated.

-Jeff
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  #376  
Old 05-03-2011, 12:02 PM
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The thinner wire, gas, panel clamps, and copper spoon made a ridiculous difference in the ease of working with the sheet metal.

Where as with the .035 wire it was a quick tack, over and over; the .020 wire and gas makes for a nice even burn and easy stitches.
Can you please elaborate on the "copper spoon"? Where did you get it, what does it look like and how do you use it? Can you snap some pictures next time you use it? I have heard about backing welds with a piece of copper, but I've never done it myself and I'd love to see it in action.
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  #377  
Old 05-03-2011, 12:10 PM
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Welcome man!

I think it's as easy as it sounds. I've never used copper as a backing either, but I've always heard about it and can definately see how it would help! You just put a peice of copper right behind the sheetmetal your welding, and it keeps you from blowing through, and the weld material doesnt stick. I've wanted to try forever, I just always forget to get my hands on a peice of copper lol.
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  #378  
Old 05-03-2011, 02:10 PM
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I've made them out of a piece of 3/4 copper pipe flattened out. Leave part of it round for a handle or jamb a piece of dowel in it for a handle. Works great. Shay
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  #379  
Old 05-03-2011, 03:39 PM
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Can you please elaborate on the "copper spoon"? Where did you get it, what does it look like and how do you use it? Can you snap some pictures next time you use it? I have heard about backing welds with a piece of copper, but I've never done it myself and I'd love to see it in action.
I saw one in an Eastwood catalog and went looking for one at Harbor Freight.

Here's what it looks like....





The ones in the Eastwood catalog actually had three changeable "heads" that each had a little bit different radius/shape to it.

They also had a set up that was kind of a mix up of the panel clamps and a copper spoon. It had a piece of copper hung off the inside of the panel clamp to act as a backing for the weld.

But the HF one was all of $9.99, so I didn't worry too much about interchanging heads....

Link to the HF one....

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-spoon-66785.html

Pretty much I just hold it on the back side of the panel and weld away on the front.

It works pretty good.

-Jeff
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  #380  
Old 05-08-2011, 10:15 PM
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So I didn't make a lot of progress this weekend, but I did come up with pretty solid plan for the fuel cell setup.

I got some 3/4" x 1.5" rectangular tube and notched the ends to fit into the back part of the cage...



Another view....



These are just the start to the fuel cell mount. From there, I plan on using some 16 ga sheet to build some side panels and the rest of the assembly.

Anyways, not too much to show yet....

Finally a couple of pics of the first mock up template fuel cell.

Without the template...



With the template....



Still pretty rough. I need to rework the shape of the fuel cell and get it fabbed.

Oh well, a bit of progress...

More to come soon....

-Jeff
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