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Introductions/Connections Introduce yourself, your rig, your skillz....Get Connected with someone


Introductions/Connections Introduce yourself, your rig, your skillz....Get Connected with someone

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  #41  
Old 10-26-2006, 05:20 PM
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smashmetal smashmetal is offline
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Allright more parts! I went with an Offroad design Rt hand high steer arm to complete the steering, also ordered a stud kit so im not chassing parts down later.
Dana 60 high steer arm with hard wear $193.0 shipped

OO and thanks AllPro, your about 3 weeks late on this one. Today I recieved a set of bushing 3 weeks after the freaking springs showed up and after I spent $24 on new ones!
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  #42  
Old 10-26-2006, 11:40 PM
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Captainfab Captainfab is offline
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I must have missed something somewhere Smash. Why did you only get the right side high steer arm?
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  #43  
Old 10-27-2006, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainfab
I must have missed something somewhere Smash. Why did you only get the right side high steer arm?
For now it looks like there is not quit enought room to do a hi steer set up. So for now I just need the Rt arm so I can get my drag link made. I forsee clearance issues if I am to move everything above the leafs. Once I can fully cycle the suspension my decesion may change. Another reason I went with the ORD arm, they allready make a match for the Lft side!
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  #44  
Old 11-06-2006, 09:11 PM
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Budget drag link total cost !!!!!!

A six pack of Mountian Dew!!! for the tie rod I later moded.

Here is what I used, GM 1/2 ton 10 bolt tie rod, it's already threaded for 7/8 18 rod ends. Pretty simple I just cut a section out of the center to get the length I desired and sleeved a peice of tubing over the two sections and welded together! I made one like this years ago but sleeved a peice of soild round stock inside of the two peices, made it look more uniform. But in this case i couldent wait so I used a peice of 1.5" tubing I had laying around.
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  #45  
Old 11-07-2006, 02:06 PM
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It Steers! Looks like I should have excelent aproach angle, Still need to finish up the shocks, brake lines and front drive line before it's totaly lagit, Ooo and probably some hydro assist as well, the little yota box does not like turning those bit tires by it's self. I think Ill hold off on those items for a while thought, Time to start on the rear!
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Last edited by smashmetal; 11-07-2006 at 02:10 PM.
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  #46  
Old 11-13-2006, 05:01 PM
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Im slowing down a just a little, I've been in the process of preping the rear GM 14 bolt. So far I've cut the old shock mounts, leaf spring pads and brake line brackets of so I have a fresh housing to work with.
Because disk brakes are a must and so easy to set up I placed an order for a set of disk brake brackets through...

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/index.php.

Price! $54.09 shipped!!!

I doubt you'll finder a better deal any where else. What I really dig about these is there bent. This means there is no need for the long spacers and bolts needed for use in most bracket applications.
Now ill still need to aquire some calipers, rotors and of course some inner hub seals before I can slap everything together.
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  #47  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:56 AM
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I am still waiting to see the flared holes.... Coming along well I might add.

Jay
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  #48  
Old 11-18-2006, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sapper
I am still waiting to see the flared holes.... Coming along well I might add.

Jay
Ya me too! Im going throught flared hole withdraws. The biggest reason is I currently don't have a press. The other is Im still trying to settle into my new work space, wich means I've been building shelfs and benches so I have a sumwhat decient place to work.
The flaring of holes will be coming soon, I'll be repositioning the yota shortly to get the rear end out of it.

Price update had to get some new hardware for the rear end

$13.84 Fastnal for 24ea grade 8 1/2 bolts of varous thread sizes
$15.98 For wheel bearing seals for a GM 14 blt
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  #49  
Old 11-21-2006, 12:37 PM
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Well with the front once again rolling I can turn it around in the garage so I have some room to work on the rear. Hehehe

Any one with a 14 bolt knows the biggest issue is clearance. Im planning on running 40" tires so I dident see it fit to go bonkers and cut everything. The biggest hang up point is the lip at the very bottom of the diff. So with a couple of cutting wheels and some grinding disks I smoothed things out a bit.
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  #50  
Old 12-01-2006, 11:57 PM
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liketofab liketofab is offline
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Its lookin great !
Nice work as usual.
Joe
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  #51  
Old 12-03-2006, 09:32 PM
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UNBREAKABLE UNBREAKABLE is offline
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where are you at right now in this project?
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  #52  
Old 12-03-2006, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNBREAKABLE
where are you at right now in this project?
As of today I removed the rear end, slid my 14 bolt underneath just to see what im up against before I get balls deep in the 4 link.
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  #53  
Old 12-08-2006, 12:54 PM
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Here is the latest, Started removing some of the old brackertry from the stock yota rear to Xfer over to the 14blt. Why am I doing this? the biggest reason is cost, just cheaper to work with whats allready there. All of the mounting positions are already 2.5" wide, wich is perfect for alot of the link ends manufactured today.

Now everything pictured is just resting in the stock location, not welded. Still need to grind off the lower link brackets. O by the way that stupid panhard bar is not staying, just havent cut it off the fram yet.
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  #54  
Old 12-09-2006, 07:52 PM
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Here is the out come of this thread

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=1088

Napa Part# CR99282 Speed sleeve, 2 ea $82.44

Not cheap INOP but if it will keep a new seal from leaking then it's what it takes.

Timken has one as well Part# KWK99282

Each sleeve comes with it's own cup, thats why there are 2 pictured. I had to cut the center out of one to fit over the 14blts spindel. I also used some Loctite between the 2 surfaces to make sure everything seals up nice and tight.
The directions tell you to remove the back half of the sleeve where it curves up like a hat after install but I don't think it's hurting any thing if it stays put. Notice in the second picture where the small groove is on the sleeve, this is where the rest of the sleeve should be removed with a pair of pliers
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  #55  
Old 12-09-2006, 11:32 PM
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Captainfab Captainfab is offline
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Yeeoow those are spendy! I knew they wouldn't be cheap, but not that much. Of course I've never had to buy ones that big. Like you said if they fix the problem then they'll be worth it.

Your new project is coming along nicely Smash....keep up the good work
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  #56  
Old 12-10-2006, 02:27 AM
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Hehe, I just replied on your other thread about the modified installer. That's just what I did, 'cept I used the plasma cutter... I also remove the lip, never thought about leaving it, hope it works for you.
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  #57  
Old 12-10-2006, 10:46 AM
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For what they are you'd think they wouldent be that much, that price is with a 10% discount too.

I left the rest of the lip because I did not have a peice of material long or big enought to evenly tap the sleeve into place. I cow boy'd up and just taped around the install tool as evenly as possiable untill the sleeve was in place. I noticed that the Loctite gathered up really nicely on the back side of it and would probably seal better if I just left it.
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  #58  
Old 12-10-2006, 05:42 PM
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Todays progress consisted of finally removing the last bracket from the yota axle and finding the location in wich the lower spring buckets are going to be placed on the 14blt.

I figured the best way to do this was set the yota axle up in a level position ( In relation to the lower spring bucket )and apply an angle finder in the pinion yoke to find the stock location. Then I would put the angle finder on the 14 bolts pinion yoke, set it in place and use the levels to place the lower spring buckets in place! Simple enough!

The buckets where tacked in place after I added 5 more degrees of rotation. I figured It wouldent hurt to have a little more because It was allready previously lifted and I would be adding about another 2.5-3" of lift to compinsate for the allready done front.

NOTE: After placing things in position with the lower buckets being tacked in place. I relized that maybe ill add another 5 degrees of rotation to things. I don't have it right now but if a doubler is added that extra couple of degreses of rotation won't hurt.
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  #59  
Old 12-14-2006, 11:26 PM
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I just noticed that this whole thread is in the Introductions And Connections Form, Shouldent this be in the Offroad fabrication Form?
I will be wheeling it one day, offroad, I hope, hehehhe
but maybe ill start in the WalMart parking lot just for a test run!
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  #60  
Old 01-03-2007, 10:16 PM
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CJcrawler13 CJcrawler13 is offline
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Thumbs up

Lookin good, but it is still missin the flaird holes....maybe a lisence plate holder?
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