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  #21  
Old 05-29-2016, 07:22 PM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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Ps im a patrol nut 😁
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  #22  
Old 06-03-2016, 01:05 PM
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Patrol Axles are in! These are pretty beef. :smoking:



The front diff is significantly bigger than the one on my 80 series. Also looks like the rear has a locker which I wasn't expecting so thats an added bonus. The callipers are missing but not too fussed considering what I paid for these.

So once I finish up servicing the motor it'll be time to start getting these bad boys cleanup, serviced and under the vehicle. Also I am going to ditch the auto locking hubs for manual units. I have read about guys using that as an "engineered" weak point of sorts. So if anything goes pop it'll be that before the CV's, axles or diffs. Well thats the thinking I guess...
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  #23  
Old 06-03-2016, 08:56 PM
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233 mm front and rear,Vac activated rear locker standard on EU models,Vac off/on ..wait till you compare CV's😜
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  #24  
Old 06-04-2016, 07:15 AM
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I know several Guy's who run these axel's with big US V8 blocks in competition, all with the auto locking hubs. These hubs don't break that easy....
I run Y60 axel's with the auto locking hubs. Never had any problems.
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  #25  
Old 06-05-2016, 05:07 PM
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So how are the auto hubs actuated?
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  #26  
Old 06-05-2016, 08:25 PM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomo View Post
So how are the auto hubs actuated?
By shaft rotation
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  #27  
Old 06-06-2016, 07:20 AM
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Are you going to keep it on vacuum then? I did and I wired the switch in to show when it's in, I used the brake vacuum supply to supply a home made reservoir and used a simple 5-2 lever valve, and it works perfectly
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2016, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Gardiner View Post
Are you going to keep it on vacuum then? I did and I wired the switch in to show when it's in, I used the brake vacuum supply to supply a home made reservoir and used a simple 5-2 lever valve, and it works perfectly
Hey Andrew,

Sorry like an interesting setup. What do you mean by a 5-2 lever? Could you post up some more info and pics please?
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  #29  
Old 06-07-2016, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350 Vortec View Post
By shaft rotation
Cool, that's quite genius isn't it. So as long as I'm in 4wd then the hubs will he locked.
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  #30  
Old 06-07-2016, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomo View Post
Cool, that's quite genius isn't it. So as long as I'm in 4wd then the hubs will he locked.
Yes and you also have the option of locking them permanently,if you look at the hub you will see a nut in the centre ,you turn this 1/4 turn to lock,im guessing Adam is talking about manual air spool with feed to on and off,just like a 2 way hydraulic ram,feed one side,other side exhausts and vice versa
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  #31  
Old 06-07-2016, 06:46 PM
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-2-Way-Ha...sAAOSwgkRVUd3S

Similar to in the link,
you supply the vacuum to port 1
Both diff hoses go to ports 2 and 4
Ports 3 and 5 are exhausts so mount out of the way where they won't get wet or ingres into them, so use a brass silencer.

I found a cheaper one on eBay for about £10 and it came from china
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  #32  
Old 06-07-2016, 08:11 PM
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I keep my hubs manually locked with the center nut.
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  #33  
Old 06-08-2016, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter H View Post
I keep my hubs manually locked with the center nut.
And I do with mine
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  #34  
Old 06-12-2016, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Gardiner View Post
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-2-Way-Ha...sAAOSwgkRVUd3S

Similar to in the link,
you supply the vacuum to port 1
Both diff hoses go to ports 2 and 4
Ports 3 and 5 are exhausts so mount out of the way where they won't get wet or ingres into them, so use a brass silencer.

I found a cheaper one on eBay for about £10 and it came from china
That's great, thanks. It seems a nice easy way to go to control the locker. :smoking:


Well, not much in the way of progress this weekend. I'm busy renovating a flat which has been taking up my time...

I did however have time to finish changing the cam belt, which I started last weekend, while I was in there I replaced the water pump too, which was probably not necessary based on how clean everything is inside the motor




I went ahead and replace all of the idler pulleys also...



Then removed the intake manifold to give things a good clean and also to get to the started motor to inspect it.





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  #35  
Old 07-14-2016, 01:22 PM
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Well no progress lately. The renovation is almost done so all being well
I should be back on this in a few weeks. My tyres did come though...



I went with 37" sticky trepadors.
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  #36  
Old 07-23-2016, 09:57 AM
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Build looks great! What bushes are you using for the engine mount??
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  #37  
Old 07-23-2016, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70Y07A View Post
Build looks great! What bushes are you using for the engine mount??
Thanks! Haven't had much time on it but should be back in the swing of things in a few weeks time.

I used Powerflex top hat bushes PN: PF99-112

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...es-2787/1.html
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  #38  
Old 10-05-2016, 04:03 PM
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4-link design

Hey guys,

I finally have time to get back into this build. I started cutting the brackets off of the Y61 axles in order to prep them for custom
link mounts.



So I have been playing around with 4-link calculators and reading up on designing the 4-link setup. Whilst I understand the terminology in principle I am still at a loss as to what numbers/setup I should be shooting for in terms of Anti-Squat/Dive, Roll centre and instant centre and so forth. Also I donít know when it comes to a 4-link setup on the front Vs rear is it beneficial to have more or less of the any of the above.

I appreciate that any design or setup is basically going to be a compromise between what the ďperfect numbersĒ are, what is physically feasible on the truck and then with the Ultra4 factor (high speed rough stuff vs low speed technical climbs and obstacles)

I'm going to throw out my understanding of the principles and how I understand them to affect handling. If anything is wrong, please correct me. My understanding is purely from reading up online.

1. Roll Centre
I understand that a high roll centre will have less body roll than a low roll centre. Which would be good for off camber situations and help keeping body roll in check which would make the rig more stable. I also understand that a low roll centre will articulate more freely transmitting more force into the shocks vs a high roll centre that will transmit more force into the body. So for high speed whoops or rough hill climbs a low roll centre would be better.

To confuse things a bit more the roll centre isn't just a point but also an axis. So it's possible to have it horizontal, sloping up or down. From what I have read a flatter roll axis will have less roll induced steering when articulating.

Based on the above Iím thinking that for my application i want relatively low roll centre with a flat roll axis, I canít see any benefit to roll induced steering. The reason I am thinking low is that I want to be able to soak up bumps on hill climbs and the rough stuff at higher speeds. I am also thinking a decent sway bar could help combat excessive body roll from having a low roll centre. Am on the right track with this?

2. Anti Squat (AS)
Ok so, Anti Squat refers to the ability for the suspension to resist the tendency for the shocks to compress under acceleration. 100% AS means that acceleration wont input any force into the shocks. So a bit of squat can help the trees dig down and find traction. Too much can result in wheel hop. Not enough can make it harder for the rear wheels to find traction.

Iím thinking a bit of squat is good, but not to the point that if Iím trying to climb up a steep rocky climb the back end is going to squat down and pitch the front end up leading to backwards roll overs. What I donít know is how much is good? I know itís fairly easy to adjust AS at the chassis end so when I build the mounts Iíll put in a few additional holes to be able to adjust it up or down. But how much should I be shouting for as a starting point?

3. Anti Dive (AD)
So this is the ability to resist diving under braking. Iím thinking excessive diving under braking, especially on steep downhill sections wont be good and could pitch the truck over. I canít think of any benefit to not shooting for 100% anti dive or at least as much as I can build into the system. Am I missing anything?

4. Instant Centre
I donít have much to say on this. I know the further forward or further backward it is determines the AS and AD numbers.
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  #39  
Old 10-06-2016, 05:33 PM
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Just some random idiot with a keyboard...

One:
Low roll center, compromise, adding sway bar and look at the upper shock mount height in the chassis; higher is your friend.
Two:
About 30%, with optional chassis mount points to allow +/-15% (if possible).
Three.
Yes and 50% isnít bad but again depends on spring rate and shock valving. Build same as AS above.
Four:
You covered it


E
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  #40  
Old 10-17-2016, 04:57 PM
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Thanks for the reply Entropy. I now have a decent idea where I'm headed with the 4-link design.

For now it's still very much cutting and grinding. I started stripping down the Patrol axles.



I had a set of 80 axles lying about so thought a side by side comparison would be interesting. Despite how the photos look the patrol axles are a smidge thicker than the 80's, but just a bit +/- 1mm in diameter. I am guessing its the 9" diff that really sets these apart from the 80 series front axle (the ones with the ABS ring on them)...

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