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  #121  
Old 12-11-2015, 10:36 AM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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Thanks!

Finished up the firewall last night.











I welded up two holes in the pass side motor mount (no pic)

Then I tackled the uneven lip on the inside edge of the core support.

Before there were multiple widths which were quite wavy:





After. Now there are just two widths, but nice and straight:








I think about all thats left to tackle are the 4 holes in the frame rails near the firewall, and a couple on the lower and upper core supports and it will be ready for real primer.


Dan
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  #122  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:31 AM
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Small progress last night. Got the 4 large holes in the top of the frame rails near the firewall welded up. I think that just leaves one in the upper core support....







Dan
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  #123  
Old 02-24-2016, 08:15 PM
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Redliner Redliner is offline
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Man this fellow Golf nut from Oz is exhausted just reading your post end to end in one hit! Looks like a true labor of love & the project of a lifetime. You're just plain hand building the entire bloody car. Me personally would have just bought one of the many late model VW performance engines for a swap - like a Bora 5 cylinder - but huge respect for what you decided to do you mad bastard. Love it. By comparison you make most of us gear heads feel like bumbling, crude fools merely playing with cars and fabrication. Now tell me again this is for the missus?
I simply cannot believe the hours you have sunk into this build.... in areas 99% of people will not even see or appreciate. You need to see Dr. Phil

Last edited by Redliner; 02-24-2016 at 08:18 PM.
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  #124  
Old 03-07-2016, 09:49 AM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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Thanks Redliner!

No much progress as Ive been working on a ton of other stuff lately.

Finally welded up the last ball for the shifter assembly.

Now everything (including a couple washers for my MK6 motor mount) are ready to go out for coating. Probably going to do black E coat since it plays well with threads and is super cheap. Though, nickel would be nice.....





Dan
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  #125  
Old 04-04-2016, 09:19 AM
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Spent some time cleaning up the shop yesterday and unearthed the unfinished lower x brace. Decided it was time to finally weld it up. I think my shifter parts are finally done at the coater, so ill probably pick those up and drop this off for powder today or tomorrow.





I also spent some time figuring out what lenght wheel studs I need. Turns out I already have one set of ARP's in stock, just need to order a shorter set for the rear.

Dan
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  #126  
Old 04-11-2016, 08:40 AM
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Assembled the shifter stuff on the bench just to be sure it all fit together nicely. I did have to remove the E-coat from the ball studs, but otherwise, everything fit and moves well. Just need a couple piece of ss hardware and a shim to finish it up.



My daughter and I rebuilt the shift lever assembly, basically just cleaned up all the old grease and reassembled. Protip: when teaching a kid how to use snap ring pliers be sure to tell them how MUCH to squeeze before you start. She ended up squeezing them the whole way and basically destroyed the snap ring, haha. Luckily I had others.





I received reman'd Corrado front calipers and was bummed to find one of the inlet holes had been retapped on an angle. Thats probably not gona seal. So that has to go back for a new one, yay.




Also the 22mm master showed. I swapped the old square reservior on (yes I still need to clean up the inside some)


And the wilwood brake bias unit.


Finally I dug out the fuel sending unit as Im hoping to start plumbing the fuel system this week. Turns out its a disaster. Looks like new is NLA, and used go for a pretty penny, so I think Im going to attempt rebuilding this one. Started pulling it apart, I dont think it will be so bad. Ill just need to get the steel bits re-plated.








I also pulled the front strut/knuckle/ brake assemblies all apart in order to swap to the bigger 11" Corrado brakes and install wheel studs. Unfortunately it looks like Ill need to press the hubs out of the knuckle (hopefully without destroying the brand new bearings) in order to get the studs past the knuckle.

Dan
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  #127  
Old 04-11-2016, 09:42 AM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
My daughter and I rebuilt the shift lever assembly, basically just cleaned up all the old grease and reassembled. Protip: when teaching a kid how to use snap ring pliers be sure to tell them how MUCH to squeeze before you start. She ended up squeezing them the whole way and basically destroyed the snap ring, haha. Luckily I had others.
Did you also teach her the correct string of profanity to use when the snap ring flies across the shop and disappears to parts unknown?

Quote:
Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
I received reman'd Corrado front calipers and was bummed to find one of the inlet holes had been retapped on an angle. Thats probably not gona seal. So that has to go back for a new one, yay.
Banjo bolts are funny like that, only wanting to seal when the bolt is reasonably perpendicular to the sealing surface.

Looks great!
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  #128  
Old 04-11-2016, 10:01 AM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
Did you also teach her the correct string of profanity to use when the snap ring flies across the shop and disappears to parts unknown?



Banjo bolts are funny like that, only wanting to seal when the bolt is reasonably perpendicular to the sealing surface.

Looks great!
Haha. Luckily the snap ring stayed on the pliers, so she didnt learn any new words.

And thanks. Im hoping for some big progress in the next few weeks.

Dan
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  #129  
Old 04-11-2016, 10:26 AM
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Asm109 Asm109 is offline
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I was taught the proper name for those rings was "Jesus clips" because that is what you yell when it whizzes past your face.
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  #130  
Old 04-11-2016, 11:36 AM
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Is that hole drilled crooked, then straight? Or just drilled not straight?

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  #131  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:56 AM
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Finished up the shifter rebuild. Sand blasted, primed, and painted the baseplate.



The "bucket" or whatever you want to call it that sits under the car is a bit rusty and really greasy so Ill prob drop it off to be coated vs messing with it.

MK4 rear aluminum calipers showed up



As did parts for the 044 fuel pump surge tank. The machined piece I purchased from Integrated Engineering. It allows a 044 pump to be submerged in a tank, while allowing the outlet and wiring to be external to the tank. I opted to build my own tank to save $100. The aluminum tube I sourced from McMaster. Should be pretty simple, just a few welds around both ends and some brackets.





This is their version, mine will be similar, but obviously have mounts to attach to the subframe bracing.




Ive also spent about 12 hours this week on the OE wiring harness. Took about 6 hours to finally really learn how to use the factory VW schematics and plan out every wire, relay, fuse etc that I would no longer need. Ive since stripped out everything that I identified. There is still a lot to go, but its a great start.



Luckily I happened to have a pin extraction took that fit the smaller fuse box terminals perfect. The larger ones I used a tiny screwdriver.



What was removed.



Then really late last night I got a wild hair to pull the column apart to get it cleaned up. I was worried about the column bearings, but luckily all was in great shape so they will not need replacement.

I literally found a hair ball in the column switches. The switches were pretty hammered so I orderd up some new Meyle ones.



Everything apart. Im going to drop the pedal arms off for textured red powder. The tube and pedal bracketry Im just going to clean up and spray bom matte black.



Finally I cleaned up this guy. A little 320 on the end of the key cylinder.

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  #132  
Old 04-15-2016, 06:18 PM
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Redliner Redliner is offline
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Great work Juice. There's always that underlying fear when stripping back a harness that you'll just remove one wire too many and end up with electrical nightmares - even when you know what you're doing. I think it's my least favorite job in doing engine & full harness swaps, yet I have a friend who absolutely thrives on complex automotive electrics & loves nothing more than building new harnesses from scratch. Genius as far as I'm concerned. Loving the build coming together.
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  #133  
Old 04-16-2016, 11:55 PM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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Thanks!

Picked up the lower subframe brace from powder this am. It turned out awesome. They also put another coat on the upper strut brace as it was a little thin in spots, no pics.

I dropped off a few more things which should be ready next weekend.







I also received the new black delrin bushing for the shifter rod, and assembled it on the coated bracket with ss hardware.




Dan
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  #134  
Old 04-20-2016, 09:48 AM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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Had to press the hubs out of the bearings to install the wheel studs. Of course it broke both of them, so now I need to replace brand new bearings. At least they are only $25 ea.



Got both hubs drilled and the studs pressed in.



Next I tackled disassembling the brand new rear calipers so I can have them powder coated. I was a little nervous about pulling them apart because of the parking brake assembly, but it turned out to be pretty easy. It did require buying a set of master cylinder snap ring pliers to reach down inside the bore, but they worked perfectly.



Finally I primed and painted the column tube as well as the pedal box. And the new wiper and turn signal levers showed.



Im glad I decided to replace the levers, just look how worn the horn contact is.




Pedal arms should be done friday so I can get this assembly together.

Dan
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  #135  
Old 04-24-2016, 11:26 AM
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Pedal box and steering column reassembled with new ignition switch, turn signal, and wiper levers. The column bearings were in great shape so I just cleaned and re-greased them. I will be adding a collar to keep the lower bearing from sliding out before we start driving the car again.









Dan
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  #136  
Old 04-24-2016, 11:35 AM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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Looks good.
I'm wondering if there is a prefered placement [spacing, depth from floor] for the pedals for rally? Or is it up to the individual? I've never been rallying and their isn't much close to me to check out vehicles easily.
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  #137  
Old 04-24-2016, 06:14 PM
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Redliner Redliner is offline
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I've built many cars for rallying and have never worried about pedal heights off the floor apart from OME settings. What's more important is having all the pedals at the same height in their upmost position to facilitate heel & toeing, and the pedals in nearly all cars come this way. I ensure the same is true when I build offroad buggies from scratch. The only other issue with pedal placement is to ensure they are well spaced horizontally for easy foot work, and again OME setups are usually fine in this regard. However since becoming a dedicated left foot braker on the dirt decades ago the exactness of pedal placement has become much less of an issue, and building & swapping engines into dirt cars with big torque means the guys I build cars for and myself have far less gear changing to do than those with high revving engines with bugger all torque. In the short special rally stage competitions in which I mostly race I actually start in second gear and leave it there. It's all about torque on the gravel!
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  #138  
Old 04-27-2016, 09:33 AM
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MMP caliper brackets showed yesterday for the Corrado brake swap. Tested one on the knuckle just for fun.



Corrado calipers vs Cabby oem calipers



Re-positioned and re-bent the ebrake cable tubes to allow more room for exhaust, and so they arent dangling so low.






Been tinkering on the fuel system. Had to pull one bar out of my x bracing to be able to get the surge tank in/out. Im working on some mods for the brace to accommodate it as soon as I can get over to use the bender at a friends shop. I also "tweaked" the edge of the gas tank and the floor to allow the fuel lines between the in-tank transfer pump and the surge tank to be routed easier and more direct. The surge tank is ~ 4x4x6", 1/4" wall aluminum.



And approx where the surge tank will be located.




Finally I decided to pull the rack apart to get it cleaned up and painted, and to refresh the grease. I would love to have the housing powder coated, but I dont have a puller to get the bearing out in the housing (tiny little bugger), unless I can find a blind puller for a fair price. So we'll see.





Dan
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  #139  
Old 04-27-2016, 03:17 PM
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CarterKraft CarterKraft is offline
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Don't hate me but the blind puller at harbor freight works fairly decent.
I have used it on some Harley case bearings and it worked perfectly.

Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set 5 Pc
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  #140  
Old 04-27-2016, 03:21 PM
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juicedz4 juicedz4 is offline
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No hate from me. I dont mind HF stuff sometimes, esp when Im going to use it once every few years.

I need to measure the ID of the bearing, that set might not go small enough. I didnt think about it at 1am.

Dan
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