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Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.


Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.

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  #1  
Old 12-24-2016, 01:52 AM
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Not ANOTHER Dirt Honda Racer Bill!

Just bought myself my 2017 spare dirt racer for the rougher tracks where Iíd damage my V6 Civicís fiberglass body work. I had a disposable one last year that I literally had ripped to pieces (see WJP004 on You Tube), - but this one is a keeper. H22A V-Tec 5 speed manual that went like a scalded cat up the 2km road to my place. A racing mate put me onto it on Gumtree. Guy wanted $500 so I let it sit for 2 weeks for him to get depressed (A common tactic of mine on cars run out of rego). Then he wanted $300. By the time I arrived this morning it had developed a hunt on cold idle, so I knocked him down to $200. Those cold idle valves gum up & take 10 minutes to clean & re-fit. Gonna budget prep it - sump guard, spacer plates to raise the front, braces and gut the buggery outta it.



Last edited by Redliner; 12-24-2016 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:27 PM
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This is the EVO bonnet and flared guards I made for a mate's DC2 Integra (H22A V-Tec swap - see my video library list on WJP004 tube channel for the series), that I'm gonna re-sculpt onto the front of my Prelude BB5. Gotta get a stock front bar from somewhere. Not another bloody wreck.
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Old 12-25-2016, 01:15 AM
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Spoke with the mate I built the burgundy DC2 for today. Unbelievably he has just bought a DC2 which he is wrecking for parts, and has a front bumper I can use to make my front end for the Interlude. So I have all the panels I need to be able to graft & sculpt that new one piece front end.
Just laid up the bonnet & flared Integra guards I am going to use to sculpt my new hinged one piece front end for the Prelude. Tomorrow I'll pop them out & attack the Prelude with the angle grinder.
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Old 12-25-2016, 02:13 AM
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Good to see you working on the race cars again. I wish I could find a wreck that new that cheap.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:37 PM
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Just popped the Integra front panels out of my molds. Got a fair bit of "Alligatoring" on both guards. This is a rippling, crazed finish to the surface caused by the Gelcoat being too thin & heating up & distorting as the resin cures over it. This was probably worsened by me making these panels thinner than normal as they're only gonna be used as a die. Shoulda given them two coats of what is probably old product. Easy to be wise after. Normally I'd chuck these away, but a coat of Fairing compound & a sand will quickly overcome this. So don't be discouraged if you have the occasional problem with fiberglassing - everyone does!



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Old 12-26-2016, 06:17 PM
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This is gonna work. The flared guards pretty well fit just with a little overlapping onto what I've left of the OME ones. The Integra scooped bonnet will need widening and blending into the back of the OME one. My next work will probably be cutting the bonnet so it's only 200mm long. That way I get the perfect shape for the bottom of the Prelude windscreen. The sides of the new bonnet have to match the shape of the new guards. Cut & paste with the angle grinder. Lovin' it!





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Old 12-27-2016, 04:08 PM
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"IN" for the education I get every time you do one of these

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Old 12-27-2016, 08:28 PM
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Picked up the Integra front bar from my mate's Integra wreck... last piece of DC2 front bodywork I need. A perfect candidate for sculpting as it has a few holes & scratches on it, easily repaired as I turn it into a die

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Old 12-28-2016, 03:14 AM
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The DC2 head lights are all plastic, perfect for an angle grinder attack to trim them right back for fitting to the die considering I will not be running any OME headlights on this car. In the very rare event of a day/night race Iíll just fit a light bar. I also glued the parkers in place and started to bog over those holes completely. I tried cutting a pattern to blank in the grill opening from the front, but it turned out to be easier to just cut off all the grill egg crate plastic work and get a flat board to fit in behind the front bar. I also screwed & glued the DC2 guards to the Prelude cut off ones and began blending the two together with Fairing Compound. Things are taking shape quickly. The Integra EVO bonnet panel canít be exactly positioned & glued to the Prelude one until the front bar is glued in place.
The deep grill opening is a layup problem I have to overcome. Normally I glass over these with the front bar facing skywards so the cloth hangs effectively on both top & bottom edges of the grill recess. But this time all that will be part of the single one piece die Ė which will be bolted onto the car. So Iím either gonna have to figure out how I can still do this particular part of laying up on the car Ė or whether I need to remove the die from the car to mold it (and if so HOW to unbolt it) Ė or whether I need to layup the guards & bonnet on the car, and somehow layup the front bar section afterwards. Hhmmm! But the car already looks like a DC2!
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:06 AM
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Thought about how best to lay up that front grill opening and Iíve worked out the best way to probably do it is to divide the front bar not at the bonnet join line, but lower down along the top edge of the front bumper. That way I can detach the bar from the car, mold the bottom two thirds of it (including a mold joining flange), and then re-fit the bumper to the car for the final blending of panels into a single front section Ė then mold the remaining bonnet/headlights section and the two guard sections on the car. Might be easier to understand when I post pics of when I get to that.
Today was 40+ here Ė the hottest day of 2016, so I worked on my house from dawn till 10am. Then just before sundown I positioned the front bar so it was perfectly level. This took a bit of fiddling because the d/s front of the car took most of the crash impact and I discovered when I couldn't get the DC2 bar to sit level that the framing behind where the headlight used to be was twisted down...easily fixed with my favorite sledge hammer. Next I started blending the flared guards onto the front bar on either side using cardboard to form the wheel arch and fairing compound to fill in the curves. Cardboard!!! Yes, because I have to be able to detach the front bar from the car after this work so I can mold it off the car in a vertical position, and the cardboard will just rip away.
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:14 PM
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With the front bar off the Prelude and normal temperatures today I finished blending the flared DC2 guards onto the back edges of the OME Prelude ones. I added red tint to the fairing compound to make it easier to see and sand each successive layer of filling. Iíve also got most of the alligatoring smoothed over now. From this point on (after a sand), Iíll use gyprock filler to finish things off until I put the front bar back on the car.


The wheels on this Prelude have as new 16 inch high quality street radial tyres on them, but I need to drop back to fifteens which are the size most readily available in used rally tyres (which will be fine for this backup car). So I looked up my pcd wheel chart to see what other cars might run the same stud pattern Ė hoping for a rwd car with itís wider offset when fitted to a fwd car. Didnít know what Iíd do with the 16 inch tyres.
Whatayareckon Ė the wheels on my tow car ute are the same pattern Ė and it needs new tyres! So I know where that great rubber off the Prelude is going. KaaaÖching!$$$ But I need fifteens. I jump on the local internet classifieds and thereís a set of 15Ē Ford mags near where Iím going Tuesday. Heís got $120 on them, but says heíll take $80 when I press him (thereís no market for stock diameter mags these days). Check out the increased track when I test fitted my spare uteís wheel on the Interlude. Might have to make a set of rear flares too! Good start to the New Year!
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:44 PM
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Talking

Will you be duplicating the factory mounting configuration?
Or, will the one piece structure make something else a better choice?

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Old 01-03-2017, 12:59 PM
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I really admire your productivity. Thanks for sharing this new build with us. I like the use of photos in addition to your always awesome videos. I assume you will be flaring/widening the rear to match? Looking forward to following that part of the build.
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:19 PM
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Good question. When I make my first one piece copy in my mold/s I will incorporate steel brackets into it so I can mount it either as a front flip hinging below the radiator opening, or as a rear flip up using the OME bonnet hinge points. The latter would be my preference for accessibility and effect, but I need to leave the other option available in case the body work fouls it to such a degree that a rear hinge just isn't possible. I will probably sculpt & mold my own rear guards later on to cover the rwd offset wheels I will use - but at this stage it's a low priority as my focus has to be finishing the front so I can race in early Feb.
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:02 PM
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Having removed the front bar from the car, I have just finished getting it ready for molding the lower half. This included smoothing over the side parker holes, blanking off the radiator opening, making the joining flange out of aluminium & clay, and sealing all the work with 2 pack high gloss floor paint. Now I can proceed to fiberglassing it.



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Old 01-05-2017, 02:22 AM
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After Wattyl 7008, release wax & PVA release I have just applied Gelcoat to the lower half of the front bumper. Think I'll give it two coats to avoid alligatoring again. Don't want that in a mold.Tomorrow I will lay it up with the hairy stuff. Notice how the parker/front trafficators are now gone? Much smoother shape.

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Old 01-05-2017, 09:18 PM
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Fiberglass cloth doesnít take a sharp ninety degree bend well (unlike gelcoat). Result? You get air pockets between the gelcoat & cloth, and the gelcoat just breaks away once you unpack the lay up from your mold. I overcome this by laying a bead of car bog or fairing compound with a little resin in it along such sharp edges before applying csm. Iíve colored it orange so you can see it better. Once that dried I fully laid up the lower half of the front bar for the Interlude.



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Old 01-06-2017, 09:46 AM
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Thanks, I was wondering how to do the inside of a 90!


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Old 01-06-2017, 11:25 AM
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That's awesome. What weight fiberglass did you use on that? Is there anything wrong with using multiple layers of a lighter weight cloth rather than fewer layers of thicker stuff? I ask because the light weight stuff is easier to work around weird/tight shapes.

Looks like it turned out great!
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:31 PM
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It doesn't really matter what weight cloth you use, as long as you get sufficient thickness for the strength needed. I could have used 6oz woven cloth on the joints first, or then again a couple of thick threads pulled from woven rovings. More than one way to skin that cat. This is the way I do it by habit. I used 1 x 225gm csm, then 2 x 450gm csm - which is my standard lay up for molds and car panels.

This morning I was able to trim the front bar lower half mold & remove the aluminium strip that formed my joining flange for the bonnet section to bolt up to. I have to leave this mold on the die so I have that fiberglass lip to form itís matching side against, so the bar & mold were re-fitted to the car and now I can glue the EVO scooped DC2 bonnet in place and blend all four panels into a single shape.




Last edited by Redliner; 01-06-2017 at 08:33 PM.
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