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  #161  
Old 11-24-2012, 05:09 PM
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Peter H Peter H is offline
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Hi steer ready for welding.





I still need to remove the washer at the shock mount!! I keep forgetting it..... must be Alzheimer....

Last edited by Peter H; 11-24-2012 at 05:11 PM.
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  #162  
Old 11-25-2012, 04:32 PM
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Today Hi steer welded together. Seems to work perfect. Next week take it back apart for paint. Another chapter closed!! :-)
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  #163  
Old 11-26-2012, 11:02 PM
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nice work.
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  #164  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:42 PM
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Steering is aligned, brakes bleeded, cooling water added,.... it's getting close...
Last week i had a answer of the driveshaft builder.
He can build what i want and the price is OK.
Order will follow 1st week of January!!!
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  #165  
Old 12-24-2012, 10:37 AM
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  #166  
Old 01-06-2013, 08:18 PM
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Little update:























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  #167  
Old 01-07-2013, 12:02 AM
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Looks Awesome!!!
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  #168  
Old 01-07-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter H View Post



Likely I can not see what I am talking about so if I am wrong...
In the above it appears that you have a SRE attached to a Ball-Joint stud in the Pitman arm that has been shimmed with a stack of washers.
In essence a pivot on a pivot. I'm guessing that the stack of washers between the arm and the and the SRE are there to prevent motion of the ball-joint and/or space the SRE down on the taper to allow the nut to tighten and further that there is a tapered section inside the SRE Pivot ball.

Frankly speaking this while it may be functional at the moment, is a failure waiting to happen!
I recommend that you revise the joint, The simplest way would be to machine up a Solid Rod End or find one and then machine the taper for the Ball-Joint stud and attach it that way.

I will also recommend that you replace the "Short-Stacks" of washers under all the other SRE's with the correct misalignment spacers and then a single safety washer on the top spacer.


E
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Last edited by entropy; 01-07-2013 at 11:55 AM.
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  #169  
Old 01-07-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Likely I can not see what I am talking about so if I am wrong...
In the above it appears that you have a SRE attached to a Ball-Joint stud in the Pitman arm that has been shimmed with a stack of washers.
In essence a pivot on a pivot. I'm guessing that the stack of washers between the arm and the and the SRE are there to prevent motion of the ball-joint and/or space the SRE down on the taper to allow the nut to tighten and further that there is a tapered section inside the SRE Pivot ball.
It seems like this, but it isn't....
I have a machined spacer inside the SRE with a taper hole to fit the ball joint stud. No movement possible.


Last edited by Peter H; 01-07-2013 at 01:23 PM.
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  #170  
Old 01-07-2013, 01:21 PM
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It seems like this, but it isn't....
I have a machined spacer inside the SRE with a taper hole to fit the ball joint stud. No movement possible.
Cool!
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  #171  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:57 AM
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Drive shaft adapters are ready!

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  #172  
Old 02-08-2013, 02:34 PM
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WOW! all I can say is wow!

For a first build you men should be very proud indeed.

How long before you can drivel drive it?

Cant wait for THAT video.
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  #173  
Old 02-09-2013, 04:50 PM
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Thank you...
Maiden run probably a few weeks. Now I have the adapters, I can measure the exact length of the drive shafts to order them. They will be custom build by a specialized company (GKN driveshafts).
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  #174  
Old 04-10-2013, 01:44 PM
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The postman made me very happy today!!!!



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  #175  
Old 04-13-2013, 03:59 PM
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It moves!!!!

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  #176  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:16 PM
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Movies:

http://youtu.be/r9fpmDbgh0s

http://youtu.be/s0RbzpTyMm0

http://youtu.be/FvbgO6V895c
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  #177  
Old 10-02-2013, 08:44 PM
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It has been a while, so a little update.
This summer we did several testdrives and joined some local offroad club meetings.
In general i'm very happy with the build.
The V6 engine is awsome. Lots of power, lots of revs, plenty of torque. Everything is running nice and keeps cool, even in hot summer conditions.
The 4-link we build is OK. Lots of flex, nothing rubs...
There is only 1 issue, but a serious one....
Axleshafts break like they are made from chocolate...
After 30 minutes the first axleshaft broke (rear right).
So i upgraded the diffs from 29 spline to 31 spline.
The 31 spline shafts did hold up about 60 minutes... then both rear were broken.
The current Nissan Patrol 160 axles are to weak for the V6 engine!
Currently I'm looking for Nissan Patrol Y61 axles. People keep telling me they are very strong (equal Dana 60?).
Any thoughts? Other possibilities?
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  #178  
Old 10-03-2013, 06:11 AM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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Hello Peter,sorry your having axle probs but was bound to happen i'm afraid,the c200(16)'s your using are a good axle but small, just not strong enough for your use,I'm a patrol axle fan and have a collection!!Yes the H233 from Y61 is STRONG,easy beating a std Dana 60 IMO,euro models come with rear locker as std and a terrano 31spline 233 rear LSD will fit front 233 from Y61
Y60 233's are physically similar but front CV's,brakes are smaller
You will not break a set of H233's from a Y61 on your truck but you will loose clearance and gain a lot of weight and width(approx 100mm wider than 260,not sure about 160 c200 width) the model designation used is the metric diameter of Crown gear,
When searching for axles note that for a period (00/01)some 3.0 diesels were fitted with H260's-looks similar but this is way too big for your truck.
I have all types and can measure and photo for you anytime if you need.These guys use mostly standard running gear
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek0Zf64NVso
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  #179  
Old 10-06-2013, 07:39 PM
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Thanks for the info. Great video!
I haven't decided yet. I can buy a complete set of Y60 axles with brakes, springs and trailing arms for 350. A set of Y61 axles will cost me between 800 and 1000 without the mounting hardware. For this difference I can buy a lot of CV joints....
Have you any idea of the weight difference between Y60 and Y61 axles?
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  #180  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:01 AM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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Very little difference in weight between 60 and 61,rear almost identical but front will be a little heavier because of larger brakes and CV.
Trailing arms are probably no use to you anyway,very light and short for offroad and front radius arm's are way too stiff..i dont think you can buy many Good CV'S for 400e really and 61 CV wont fit 60 axle (breakdown in event is also emotionally very expensive)
+you might want to fit bigger,wider tyres in future
+more chance brakes will be in good condition on 61 axles
both options are very cheap in reality,a diff lock alone for any other axle will be 800e
Can you buy 60 rear and 61 front?cheaper?
Ratio's Approx
2.8D = 4.625
4.2D = 4.1
3.0D = 4.3
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