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  #21  
Old 12-14-2011, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
That's exactly the kind of response I was looking for. And for the most part I dig everything you have to say. I even lay in bed and couldn't sleep for two hours last night thinking this is a great Idea, but this morning I checked out some pictures of the TTB axles and they are all driver's side differentials which will not work with the rest of the Toyota drive train. One of the only options I have seen for left drop transfers with the Toyota stuff is the Inchworm Lefty and at near $2K it's more or less out of the question, and I really don't want to start swapping transmissions and all the other crap that goes with it (especially since I have the adapter for the TDI to Toy trans in hand already). So while you peaked my interest sadly there ain't much I can do here, but thanx for making me think.

THanx,
Jaysin
Flip it. Should be easy to do the housing is stamped.
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  #22  
Old 12-14-2011, 12:21 PM
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Better yet use this TC!
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np242.htm
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  #23  
Old 12-14-2011, 01:15 PM
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Flip it. Should be easy to do the housing is stamped.
Looking at pictures, it doesn't really seem feasible. The housing is different top to bottom and front to back. Short of building a complete flipped housing, I don't really see it happening.

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I am not seeing the aha! here.

Right now I want to see this thing on the road sooner then later.

Thanx though,
Jaysin
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  #24  
Old 12-14-2011, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
Looking at pictures, it doesn't really seem feasible. The housing is different top to bottom and front to back. Short of building a complete flipped housing, I don't really see it happening.
I am not seeing the aha! here.
Right now I want to see this thing on the road sooner then later.

Thanx though,
Jaysin

The beam side to side is not actually a flip more of a section cut and splice Simple fab really, but I would just use the TC I suggested (&will eventually). the Ah-ha is, 2WD, AWD, 4H-Loc, 4L-Loc, and still has N.
Just get it done?Whatever
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  #25  
Old 12-14-2011, 03:25 PM
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Don't listen to E or this truck will be collecting dust alongside my Nova and your bender. The process goes something like: ambition -> scope creep -> dustpile.
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  #26  
Old 12-14-2011, 03:28 PM
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Don't listen to E or this truck will be collecting dust alongside my Nova and your bender. The process goes something like: ambition -> scope creep -> dustpile.
I never listen to me
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  #27  
Old 12-14-2011, 03:42 PM
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I have been down this road before and know all about scope creep. And quit it with the bender, it will get done soon enough (I just need to dust it off, HAHA). Bandit, did you see my question about non-high steer crossover steering?

Thanx guy,
Jaysin
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  #28  
Old 12-14-2011, 03:58 PM
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So out of curiosity what do you think you will end up at weight wise, and what MPG do you expect?
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  #29  
Old 12-14-2011, 07:22 PM
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Well I am looking to keep it fairly light, the stock truck from the factory comes in at about 3065 lbs. The TDI seems to be lighter then the 22r by 25-40 lbs according to engine weights I have found around the web. My flatbed will probably out weigh the stock bed by about the same as the diesel will be lighter then the gas motor so it should all be a push at best, but even if I gain a couple hundred lbs I'll still be happy. I am shooting for a weight of no more then 3400 lbs.

As for MPG, the completed swaps that I have checked out are mostly in the later and somewhat heavier trucks (3600-4000 lbs.) and they seem to be in the 30-35 MPG range (depending mostly on the right foot of the driver). I am hoping for the high end of that range but would be very happy with even 28-30 MPG out of a un-aerodynamic 4wd truck. I have read a few that say even loaded to 4500-5000 lbs with gear for camping or just hauling they still knock down 24-26 MPG. So there's the estimates.

Thanx,
Jaysin
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  #30  
Old 12-15-2011, 05:42 AM
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get an adapter to a d300, flip the 300 to driver drop and you're good.
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  #31  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
As for MPG, the completed swaps that I have checked out are mostly in the later and somewhat heavier trucks (3600-4000 lbs.) and they seem to be in the 30-35 MPG range (depending mostly on the right foot of the driver). I am hoping for the high end of that range but would be very happy with even 28-30 MPG out of a un-aerodynamic 4wd truck. I have read a few that say even loaded to 4500-5000 lbs with gear for camping or just hauling they still knock down 24-26 MPG. So there's the estimates.

Thanx,
Jaysin
Interesting, for some reason I expected higher MPG#'rz.
My 85 2.0L Ranger after I completely reworked everything attached to the engine; over a 7 year period gave 30-MPG combined. Combined: City, Desert blasting, Trail, want-bee rally-sally, and long 85-MPH highway runs... Seriously I ran the wheels off it every day!!! On long HWY runs at 55 it would get better but I didn't track it as I rarely ever ran it easy
I'll concede that it is a 2WD truck but it is sitting on a little lift and 30-9.60z. I've been toying with building a turbo 2.3 and putting it in the nose of my 86 along with a D44/9" and set that on some real fat tires for Snow Expeditions
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  #32  
Old 12-15-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
Interesting, for some reason I expected higher MPG#'rz.
My 85 2.0L Ranger after I completely reworked everything attached to the engine; over a 7 year period gave 30-MPG combined. Combined: City, Desert blasting, Trail, want-bee rally-sally, and long 85-MPH highway runs... Seriously I ran the wheels off it every day!!! On long HWY runs at 55 it would get better but I didn't track it as I rarely ever ran it easy
I'll concede that it is a 2WD truck but it is sitting on a little lift and 30-9.60z. I've been toying with building a turbo 2.3 and putting it in the nose of my 86 along with a D44/9" and set that on some real fat tires for Snow Expeditions
Wow, that's an impressive number for a Ranger. The one my aunt had (late 80's-early 90's) wouldn't top 20 even after a full tune up and she drove it like a grandma. To tell the truth I absolutely despised that truck, it wasn't that old but had more rattles and squeaks and always sounded like it was working hard just to go down the road. It must have been a Monday or Friday truck.

I just saw an update from one of the completed builds I follow and he just returned a 35 mpg number, in a Taco that shows a curb weight of 38-3900 lbs. not too bad if you ask me.

Thanx
Jaysin
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  #33  
Old 12-16-2011, 11:57 AM
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Wow, that's an impressive number for a Ranger.
No not really. If I had built the engine I could have done better but I didn't.
It had only the CAT remaining for emissions. I spent a bit of time re-machining the OE 1BBL Carter Carb, The exhaust was "Too Big" for the engine and I did change the manifold to a header; which didn't really make a big difference other then weight. There are other things I did like an electric fan that tic-tok'd with the sensor in the upper radiator hose, cut cold start run time in half and didn't run at speeds over about 25MPH until the outside temps were above 85 and then didn't run above 55-MPH at or above that temperature. I replaced the radiator with an aftermarket unit, changed the gears to 4.10, got rid of everything that was unnecessary though this truck unlike all my others did have a used stereo with 2 speakers... Really it was close to stock without all the fuel wasting emissions garbage and... it would pass the emissions tests as far as a 5-g analyzer could tell. Of course it would fail the visual, but what is more important the actual emissions and improved efficiency or conforming to bureaucracy's idiotic whims

Hi-jack off
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  #34  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:27 PM
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So I've gotten some work done on this rig over the holidays, not much but some. I got the front end modified with, ring gear protection, beefed up the steering stops, moved the driver's side sway bar mount, removed all the extraneous brackets and whatnot. I received the TG high steer stuff and once I get the housing painted up I will start reassembling it.

This afternoon I worked on my rear spring up front swap which leads me to a question or two. I temporarily assembled a modified spring pack using the stock 83 rear with two added and shortened leaves from an 86 rear pack (and of course removed the stock over loads), one between the mil-wrap and next shorter and one on the bottom (hope that makes sense) for 5 total. I then measured the spring rate and came up with 195-200 lbs/in, I also measured the stock front spring at 270-275 lbs/in. So I am about 70-75 lbs/in lighter then the stockers but I have considerably more arch then the stockers, at about 5" taller. I want to flatten some of this arch with the weight of the truck because I don't want that much lift, the softer spring rate will allow that. However, will this difference in spring rate be too much? It should ride more like a caddy with the softer springs. It will probably roll more too but I will be running a front sway bar so I should be able to control that. What are the downsides of a lower spring rate on a taller (more arch) spring?

Thanx,
Jaysin

Last edited by JaysinSpaceman; 01-03-2012 at 10:09 PM. Reason: correction
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  #35  
Old 01-04-2012, 02:37 PM
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IMO 75# ain't much.
Flattening out the arch with weight increases the internal stress and friction.
I suspect you will not know anything until you get the rig built and can drive it.
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  #36  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:24 PM
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While on the subject of leaf springs, I got the leafs blasted to clean off the rust and wanted to know what the consensus was as far as painting was? I could just do the Rustoleum thing but wanted to make sure it wouldn't make them sticky. I have read that you can get slip-plate or something like that, I guess it has a graphite or something in it but I would most likely have to order it. Could do like the old days and pack them with grease and wrap them with something, haha.

So what do you do to finish leaf springs?

Thanx,
Jaysin
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  #37  
Old 01-12-2012, 11:26 AM
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While on the subject of leaf springs, I got the leafs blasted to clean off the rust and wanted to know what the consensus was as far as painting was? I could just do the Rustoleum thing but wanted to make sure it wouldn't make them sticky. I have read that you can get slip-plate or something like that, I guess it has a graphite or something in it but I would most likely have to order it. Could do like the old days and pack them with grease and wrap them with something, haha.

So what do you do to finish leaf springs?

Thanx,
Jaysin
Fully smooth and deburr the springs, Smooth them to shiny, every leaf, grain on the longitudinal.
Prime and Paint with enamel.
Fully inter-leaf with ether the specific liner or polypropylene (no leaf to leaf contact).
Semi-tight clamp the front half (eye side) and loose clamp the other side.
Poly bush the fixed eye and rubber bush the shackle end thou I'm not sure what I would do with your slider, other then install a shackle
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  #38  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:29 PM
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So, after reading whet E said I started looking for info on liner material and came upon so great info from Eaton Detroit Spring: Tech info and More tech questions and answers. Lots of good stuff on leaf and coil springs. Still looking for liner material.

Jaysin
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  #39  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:55 PM
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Great links, thanks. I'll be passing these onto some other forums I frequent. As far as liner, I went to a spring shop and bought the black plastic liners that fit into a hole at the end of a spring.

Richard

Last edited by alwaysFlOoReD; 01-12-2012 at 04:30 PM.
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  #40  
Old 01-12-2012, 01:10 PM
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Poly bush the fixed eye and rubber bush the shackle end thou I'm not sure what I would do with your slider, other then be impressed by the smooth motion, lateral stability and ground clearance it offers.
Fixed it for ya
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