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Old 01-09-2007, 04:26 PM
KeithXtreme's Avatar
KeithXtreme KeithXtreme is offline
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Progress

From: "Randy" <arebuilder@comcast.net>
Date: Sun Jul 27, 2003 9:22 pm
Subject: Progress areblder



Has anyone made any progress on their vehicles? I am building a
replica Carter brothers 29 series frame and suspension. I have no
plans but I am measuring all lengths and bends from the two I have.
I have surprised myself it looks identical. I am certain I can build
this badland buggy with no problem. I am still sceptical about those
agricultural u-joints though. has anyone made theirs with the type 1
cv-joints?

Randy





#63 From: "randy0288" <randy028@henderson.net>
Date: Fri Aug 1, 2003 1:50 am
Subject: Re: Progress randy0288



How did you combine the cv's to the sprocket carier stub axle? keyed
locking collers?






#64 From: "Ken Storer" <terken@ils.net>
Date: Fri Aug 1, 2003 8:16 am
Subject: Re: Progress wasp100ca


hey Randy where did you get those rear tires and rims?
tho of set is just what I'm looking for
ken



hey where did you get thoses rear tires and rims?



#66 From: "nutnbolt2002" <nutnbolt2002@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri Aug 1, 2003 10:20 am
Subject: Re: Progress nutnbolt2002



Those tires look to me like they are Cheng Shin C-828......Ted

#67 From: "oldbugnut" <m.golka@shaw.ca>
Date: Fri Aug 1, 2003 4:00 pm
Subject: Re: Progress oldbugnut



The connection between the stub axel and cv joint was made using
keyed shaft and coupling. The spline was removed from the cv stub
and a keyway cut in. The tires and rims were purchased from Princess
Auto, they are 25 X 13 9.00.



#1058 From: "cbramscher" <cbramscher@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 3:30 pm
Subject: Progress cbramscher



Well - I posted some photos of our chassis, about 80% in Brammo-st2.

Still deciding on an engine

Craig



#1059 From: "Mark Ford" <brains2@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:36 pm
Subject: Re: Progress mfaudio2000


I need a work bench like that!

Looks good

Mark
SA

----- Original Message -----
From: cbramscher
To: badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 1:30 PM
Subject: [badlandbuggy] Progress


Well - I posted some photos of our chassis, about 80% in Brammo-st2.

Still deciding on an engine

Craig






#1060 From: "hiab_er" <jhbarnay@telus.net>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 5:29 pm
Subject: Re: Progress hiab_er



Looks fantastic - what size tube are you using for it - looks bigger
than 1.315 x.100 wall.

--jhb



#1063 From: Craig Bramscher <cbramscher@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress cbramscher



We are using 1.5" as it is cheap, readily available
and will not be a problem modifying everything..

Craig


#1064 From: "John H Barnay" <jhbarnay@telus.net>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Progress hiab_er



What is the wall thickness? And is 1.5 the actual od dimension, or are there some other decimals in there?

I like the look of the bigger tube – gives the buggy a beefier look.



--jhb



-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Bramscher [mailto:cbramscher@yahoo.com]
Sent: January 11, 2005 4:42 PM
To: badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [badlandbuggy] Re: Progress



We are using 1.5" as it is cheap, readily available
and will not be a problem modifying everything..

Craig

#1065 From: Craig Bramscher <cbramscher@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:34 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Progress cbramscher



It is just good ole cold rolled steel inch and half,
with an .090 wall thickness. Maybe too heavy for going
to fast but I weigh a ton, I would be better off with
heavier tube and missing a couple cheeseburgers a week
:)

I do like the beefier look too

I am about to start fabbing the front suspension,
trying to find if folks do the longer travel or not?

cab

#1066 From: "Mark" <onebadsavage26@yahoo.ca>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:33 pm
Subject: Re: Progress onebadsavage26



How are you finding the 1.5" for bending... I'm hearing horror stories
about kinking the smaller tubing all the time with those hydraulic
benders. 1.5" can be bent by the local muffler shop.


#1067 From: Craig Bramscher <cbramscher@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:49 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress cbramscher



Fortunately, we have a very nice tube bender, and it
is a piece of cake.

Craig

#1071 From: "cooltoy" <cooltoy@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed Jan 12, 2005 7:26 pm
Subject: Re: Progress cooltoy



--- I dont mean to be rude but my god when are you people going to
realize the difference between pipe and tube.
You need a pipe bender to bend pipe (which would be heavy and gay for
a frame) Or a tubing bender for tubing.If you cant afford to do it
right then why bother.
Here is the one i have,Worth its weight in gold if your serious.
http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
If you cant do it right then why not just buy a yerf dog?? and no a
car motor in a light buggy is not doing it right.


#1072 From: "erionrail" <erionrail@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed Jan 12, 2005 8:08 pm
Subject: Re: Progress erionrail



hmmmmm ok here is my 2 cents for that reply.

Myself and a buddy bent/notched/welded 3 frames together in 5 nights
and 2days. ALL WITH A PIPE BENDER. there are no kinks, no blems,
nothing. And I sure the hell didn't pay 319US dollars PLUS
shipping to bend the frames. If there is a will there is a way.
put your head into the build of the buggy and things will come
together.

And yes I Used Tubeing as bruce called for in the plans

Terrie
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2007, 04:31 PM
KeithXtreme's Avatar
KeithXtreme KeithXtreme is offline
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#1073 From: bigpeterhead@aol.com
Date: Wed Jan 12, 2005 3:34 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress bigpeterhead99


give up on it, bill. i have. this discussion has gone on for almost a year and a half at various times. as long as the distributor of this plan set continues to misrepresent common schedule 40 black pipe as tubing. same thing goes for using a proper bender. i know i would not attempt to put a large displacement bike engine in something that was built for as little cost as possible. but maybe the risk factor is part of the fun for some.

pete

#1075 From: "Mark" <onebadsavage26@yahoo.ca>
Date: Wed Jan 12, 2005 9:04 pm
Subject: Re: Progress onebadsavage26



My question is this...who the heck cares if you call it pipe or tubing
or what you, or I, bend it with or what I or anyone else building
these buggies uses for a power plant. In my opinion the whole Idea of
them being DIY buggies is to make them unique. Doing it right is a
matter of opinion. While obviously most on this forum hope everyone
will build a safe machine, I'm sure we respect everyones choice to do
it their own way. Oh and by the way...you are being rude.

#1081 From: "John Lerew" <jlerew@cox.net>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:13 am
Subject: Re: Re: Progress metalmender2003


Well said! I've posted that several times and no one wants to hear it! I hope no one is putting kids in these death traps built with pipe! Or worse yet bending tube in a pipe bender. If you can't afford a correct bender then pay some one to do the bends for you, there's not many and it would probably be cheaper than one of those HF pipe benders!

----- Original Message -----
From: cooltoy
To: badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 6:26 PM
Subject: [badlandbuggy] Re: Progress


--- I dont mean to be rude but my god when are you people going to
realize the difference between pipe and tube.
You need a pipe bender to bend pipe (which would be heavy and gay for
a frame) Or a tubing bender for tubing.If you cant afford to do it
right then why bother.
Here is the one i have,Worth its weight in gold if your serious.
http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
If you cant do it right then why not just buy a yerf dog?? and no a
car motor in a light buggy is not doing it right.


#1082 From: "kozaz" <kozaz@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:21 am
Subject: Re: Progress kozaz



Should be using tube and not pipe (which is prefered).
Now how to bend it is another matter.
I feel it does not matter if you use a pipe bender or tube bender.
As long as the pipe bender bends smoothly there should be no problems
building the ST2. Use the larger dies, fill the tube with sand,
modify the dies etc.. All this can be done to bend tube nicely in a
pipe bender.

No need to buy a 300+ tube bender when your not fabbing multiple
bikes or other projects. Plus nothing is over O.D 1.5 inches, if
there was then I would consider a tube bender. But then again it
would be a small portion, and I would go to a fab shop and have them
bend it for me for under $30.00 bucks.

Keep it cheap and reasonable, but build it right.


#1083 From: "John Lerew" <jlerew@cox.net>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:58 am
Subject: Re: Re: Progress metalmender2003


If people are packing tube w/sand and capping it off before the bend in a pipe bender that would help, but to bend tube in a pipe bender w/out it even if you get a bend w/out kinking it look closely at the bend and you will notice it flattens the tube and that comprimises the structural integrety of the cage. It will look fine and if you never wind up on your top you'll never know, so rool the dice and see if you come up snake eye's - As for me I'll do it the way any PROFESSIONAL chassis builder would.. I mean why not just solder it together too if you can't afford a proper welder if this DIY thing means not to do it properly ! You can bend tube in a pipe bender with customized dies, the sand trick and so on but there are alot of people under the wrong impression that any bend that doasn't kink is a good one and thats not true! I won't even touch on the metalurgy involved if no one will wake up to this easy concept!----- Original Message -----
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2007, 04:31 PM
KeithXtreme's Avatar
KeithXtreme KeithXtreme is offline
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From: kozaz
To: badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 9:21 AM
Subject: [badlandbuggy] Re: Progress


Should be using tube and not pipe (which is prefered).
Now how to bend it is another matter.
I feel it does not matter if you use a pipe bender or tube bender.
As long as the pipe bender bends smoothly there should be no problems
building the ST2. Use the larger dies, fill the tube with sand,
modify the dies etc.. All this can be done to bend tube nicely in a
pipe bender.

No need to buy a 300+ tube bender when your not fabbing multiple
bikes or other projects. Plus nothing is over O.D 1.5 inches, if
there was then I would consider a tube bender. But then again it
would be a small portion, and I would go to a fab shop and have them
bend it for me for under $30.00 bucks.

Keep it cheap and reasonable, but build it right.



#1086 From: "erionrail" <erionrail@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 6:24 pm
Subject: Re: Progress erionrail



hmmmmm ok if you are building like the "PROFESSIONAL chassis builder"
would you better have your welding ticket plus get it 100% x-rayed
every weld. for a racing car roll cage it cost a good buck to get it
too pass tech. for notching they used milling michines not just
alittle notcher.

So being a home builder ( one or two buggies) the time i go buy
tube bender, a milling machine, top of the line high feq. tig, etc
i would be looking at 10 000- 15 000 grand just for the tools.
OH the tube bender Pro use are not just tube benders they are
"Mandrel Benders" to ensure that the tube stays perfect every bend.
and they start around 20 000 grand canadian if you can find one for
that.

MY 2 cents which means nothing
Terrie

--- In badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com, "John Lerew" <jlerew@c...> wrote:
> If people are packing tube w/sand and capping it off before the
bend in a pipe bender that would help, but to bend tube in a pipe
bender w/out it even if you get a bend w/out kinking it look closely
at the bend and you will notice it flattens the tube and that
comprimises the structural integrety of the cage. It will look fine
and if you never wind up on your top you'll never know, so rool the
dice and see if you come up snake eye's - As for me I'll do it the
way any PROFESSIONAL chassis builder would.. I mean why not just
solder it together too if you can't afford a proper welder if this
DIY thing means not to do it properly ! You can bend tube in a pipe
bender with customized dies, the sand trick and so on but there are
alot of people under the wrong impression that any bend that doasn't
kink is a good one and thats not true! I won't even touch on the
metalurgy involved if no one will wake up to this easy concept!-----

#1087 From: "Ken Goff" <kgoff@Arkansasusa.com>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 8:09 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Progress kgoff72730



OK Folks. I’m about to buy steel next week. I’m going with 1.5 inch. What do I ask for????



-----Original Message-----
From: John Lerew [mailto:jlerew@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 10:14 AM
To: badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [badlandbuggy] Re: Progress



Well said! I've posted that several times and no one wants to hear it! I hope no one is putting kids in these death traps built with pipe! Or worse yet bending tube in a pipe bender. If you can't afford a correct bender then pay some one to do the bends for you, there's not many and it would probably be cheaper than one of those HF pipe benders!

----- Original Message -----

From: cooltoy

To: badlandbuggy@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 6:26 PM

Subject: [badlandbuggy] Re: Progress




--- I dont mean to be rude but my god when are you people going to
realize the difference between pipe and tube.
You need a pipe bender to bend pipe (which would be heavy and gay for
a frame) Or a tubing bender for tubing.If you cant afford to do it
right then why bother.
Here is the one i have,Worth its weight in gold if your serious.
http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
If you cant do it right then why not just buy a yerf dog?? and no a
car motor in a light buggy is not doing it right.




#1088 From: bigpeterhead@aol.com
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:21 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress bigpeterhead99


terrie

any proper tube bender is a mandrel bender. the type 3 benders being the most popular for the small shops and home builder. the benders start around 350 or so, with dies extra. you can have a bender and a two or three die sets for under 1000. and with the included degree ring, the time and material you save is well worth the cost. what makes the bender a "mandrel" bender is that the tube is pulled over or around the die (mandrel) as opposed to being compressed as is the case with the "pipe" benders. this keeps the grain of the metal as it should be, and keeps the cross section of the tube uniform. the pipe benders have already started the distortion of what you are bending as soon as you start the bend, resulting in the collapse of the tube, or pipe as a lot of you seem to like that much more likely upon impact. my thoughts based on the mechanics of how the two work.

pete


#1089 From: bigpeterhead@aol.com
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:35 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress bigpeterhead99


cold drawn seamless is the first choice, with drawn over mandrel being almost as good. both of these bend very well in tubing benders, have good torsional, compression, and tension strength. ERW tubing can split at the seam when being bent, and under a torsional load, though will work in compression and tension for bracing.

1 1/4 inch is more than big enough for a mini buggy frame. when using good tubing. .083 is a good thickness, with either .090 or .120 as the main hoop in the cage. 1 inch for a-arms and trailing arms, and bracing.

pete


#1090 From: "John Lerew" <jlerew@cox.net>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:46 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress metalmender2003


Thanks Terri but thats kind of overkill but even with that how much will it cost your family to care for you if you become a quadrapelgic after a roll over in a improperly built kart? Probably more than that in just the first year. Hmm, just my two cents. I'm not trying to be a jerk and I know some of you guys are building good karts but there are alot of people lurking and thinking a 90 amp mig and a HF pipe bender will build a cool kart after two weeks of boogering up scrap! A laxidaisical attitude toward safety is fine for some and not for others but the new builders need both sides and can decide where to draw the line and how to build properly. Thanks for allowing me to play devil's advocate and make people think!



#1091 From: "John Lerew" <jlerew@cox.net>
Date: Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:54 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Progress metalmender2003


Pete, Thank you for your input! I have also been taught when bending ERW to keep the seam to the side or near the inside of the bend as a bend with the seam on the far outside of the radius has a greater possibility to fail with the stresses put on it. I sure wish I could make people see how dangerous these are when built wrong despite how "cool" they may appear when finished.
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