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Welders and Welding Which welder is best and the best way's to use them.


Welders and Welding Which welder is best and the best way's to use them.

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  #21  
Old 08-28-2017, 03:27 PM
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Captainfab Captainfab is offline
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The few housings I have narrowed, I have used Moser ends. When mounting rear disc brakes, what I have done is have a counter bore machined into the base bracket that accommodates the protruding bearing and also allows it to bolt up tight to the housing end. Moser actually has an instruction sheet for the 3rd Gen F-bodies that shows that same thing to utilize the factory rear disc brake caliper bracket.
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2017, 04:12 PM
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INXS2 INXS2 is offline
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When do you plan on narrowing the rear end? I'll be back in San Diego at the end of September and I've got a Mittler's Bros complete rear axle narrowing jig you can use. Do you have a welder that'll do 1/4" steel?
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2017, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainfab View Post
The few housings I have narrowed, I have used Moser ends. When mounting rear disc brakes, what I have done is have a counter bore machined into the base bracket that accommodates the protruding bearing and also allows it to bolt up tight to the housing end. Moser actually has an instruction sheet for the 3rd Gen F-bodies that shows that same thing to utilize the factory rear disc brake caliper bracket.
Moser now offers a 7900FM ("Flush mount") end with a deeper bore so the bearing sits flush with the flange end, avoiding the need to counter-bore the brake bracket. But they don't recommend using it with the tapered bearing and that's what I'd like to use. After calling around, I think I am going to go with Strange stuff - they were very confident I wouldn't have sealing issues with their system.

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Originally Posted by INXS2 View Post
When do you plan on narrowing the rear end? I'll be back in San Diego at the end of September and I've got a Mittler's Bros complete rear axle narrowing jig you can use. Do you have a welder that'll do 1/4" steel?

I just cleaned up the rear this weekend and will start taking it apart this week. I want to confirm the axles are 30spline and from there my timeline is largely dependent on when I can get parts. I appreciate the offer to borrow your jig, but I'm also not too sure I could get it back to you in a timely fashion - things always seem to drag out with me and I have some conflicting vacation in early October.

I have a Millermatic 180. 1/4" is near the top end of it's ampacity, but it should be able to do it; according to Miller's specs it can do up to 5/16". I'm going to give it a shot on some scrap to see if it cuts the mustard. If not I may just tack it for mock-up and then take it to a local shop for finish welding.
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  #24  
Old 09-06-2017, 09:05 AM
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Punk Steel Punk Steel is offline
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Just keep your puck tight boyo...



[IMG]puckinghell by mark punksteel, on Flickr[/IMG]
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  #25  
Old 09-06-2017, 10:51 AM
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uh
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  #26  
Old 09-18-2017, 12:39 PM
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Progress. Best part is getting my 7 year old son involved every chance I get!







We drug the housing out to the street for cleaning. A few rounds of degreaser and brushing took most of the grime off. It's not quite paint ready but I'm thinking I will get it blasted later.





I mocked up the brakes sans rotors. These are "LS1" brakes from an '02 Camaro. It looks like part of the caliper will sit above the leaf spring. The banjo fitting for the brake line is about 1/2" above the leaf spring perch. I think I will rotate the new housing ends slightly to make more clearance.



My son helped me remove the cross pin from the diff so we could take out the c-clips. He was pretty excited when we took the axles out. He even brought one of his friend's over to see what we'd been working on.



I took the carrier out with a prybar and the hammer. It certainly had some preload. I may have to make a case spreader to get it back in.









I had to get a 1-1/8" socket to remove the pinion. The pinion seal was leaking, although the bearings were still snug. One of the reasons I am happy to take this thing apart is to refresh all the seals.

Parts showed up. Strange H1143 housing ends for 3.15 Ford bearings with GM pattern.



I also got a set of alignment fixture bushings from Lead Mine Products (they are on eBay). I also got a 3ft length of turned ground polished (TGP) 1-1/4" bar. Straightness tolerance is 0.002in/ft and diameter is -0.001 to -0.0005. I called around and could not get a better price locally, so I bought it through McMaster. 3ft is not enough to span the whole housing; my plan is to do one side then slide it over to do the other.





I took a series of measurements on the housing. The flange-to-flange width was 54-3/8". I measured the distances from the flanges to the center section also in case I need them.



The original Nova width WMS-to-WMS width was 60-1/4". I have decided to take off 1" per side, resulting in a target WMS-to-WMS of 58-1/4. After a bit of conversation with Strange, I determined to get this width I would need a flange-to-flange distance of 52.27. That is calculated as follows:

WMS width = housing flange width + 2 * axle offset + 2* rotor thickness
WMS width = 52.27 + 2.74*2 +1/4*2
WMS width = 58-1/4"

So to get there I need to remove (54.375-52.27)÷2=1.0525in from each side. I also need to account for the width of the housing end itself which is 1.300in. So from each side I need to take off 1.0525+1.3=2.3525. Round numbers that is 2-3/8". For math I like to work in exact numbers up to the point of measurement, then I can round to the nearest 1/32nd.

I used my trusty tape measure and calibrated eyecrometer to get a hose clamp spaced evenly from the flange all the way around.



The hose clamp made a great guide for my high-precision cut-off wheel.





And here is where I'm at after grinding a ~45deg bevel around. The bevel goes about 2/3 the thickness of the housing.



My plan is to tack this side into place with four equal-spaced tacks, then repeat the cutting/fitment/tack process for the other side. The axles are on order from Strange and I want to mock them up and check overall width before I burn everything in with final welds. I would weld 1/4 way around at a time. I'm not sure if I should let the welds cool in between or if I should go immediately to the opposite side - to me it seems like doing everything while it's hot would be best so it doesn't tweak one direction during cooling and then get set solidly there by the next weld. Thoughts?

*EDIT* Here is what someone suggested on another forum and basically what I was thinking:

Quote:
. I would tack it in 4 locations, 12, 6, 9, and 3 o’clock Feather both sides of each tack. Then weld from 12 to 3 then 9 to 6 o’clock, feather each start and stop, then fill in the gaps. If you stop, chances are the weld will pull everything out of alignment.
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Last edited by TheBandit; 09-18-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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  #27  
Old 09-18-2017, 12:53 PM
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I also want to share this video showing the fit of the alignment fixture. I measured about 0.025in of movement at the housing end with everything fixtured. This seems to be mainly due to clearance betweem the shaft and the carrier fixture bushings. The housing end bushings fit very snuggly into both the ends and the alignment bar, but the carrier bushings have a slight clearance which gets magnified by the length of the alignment bar.


https://youtu.be/fmGlVE9xYVk


Here is what I measured:
Turned ground polished bar: 1.249in
Left carrier bushing ID: 1.254in
Right carrier bushing ID: 1.252in
Left clearance calculated/measured: 0.005 / 0.005
Right clearance calculated/measured: 0.003 / 0.002
Housing end movement: 0.025in

I contacted Lead Mine Products with the video above and they offered to send a set of replacement bushings. So far very happy with how quickly they respond.
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Last edited by TheBandit; 09-19-2017 at 01:27 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-18-2017, 02:11 PM
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INXS2 INXS2 is offline
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I'd go at least 4 tacks, 6 or 8 would be better. Don't let it cool, do the next weld 180 degrees from the first and so on. The weld shrinks to the hot side. After welding complete, let it cool naturally. If your center bar doesn't slide out easily then you can heat the whole weld (all the way around) with a torch and let it cool. If there are other brackets that need to be welded on, do them before the bearing supports. Good luck!
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