Go Back OFN Forums > General Discussion > Introductions/Connections

Introductions/Connections Introduce yourself, your rig, your skillz....Get Connected with someone


Introductions/Connections Introduce yourself, your rig, your skillz....Get Connected with someone

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #161  
Old 12-30-2007, 02:45 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
Now that i had the old bearings off I used ye-old grinding tool to take some material out of the middle.

I can't take credit for this trick either I saw Ian from Extreme4x4 do this. The reason being, you can place your shims on the new carrier then just slide these old (oversized center) bearings on. Place everything back into the housing and take all the proper measurments. If you do need to make ajustments it's as easy as pulling carrier and the bearings off(with out a puller) and added the required shims if needed.
I everything checks out just remove the carrier pull the bearings off(with out the need of a puller) and press the new bearings on.
Reply With Quote
  #162  
Old 12-30-2007, 02:55 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
The front drive shaft I ordered from Tom Wood's, I ordered the shaft on a Sat. and they had it ready for pic up Mon. morning. Im sure there just as quick when it comes to shipping if needed.
Here is what I ended ordering, 1310 CV at the t-case and an upgraded 1350 yoke at the pinion.
1 thing Im not to happy with is the CV grind I had them do for greater clearance. It cost an extra $50 an the only visiable grinding I can see is on new T-case yoke. Ya it looks nice, but thats some thing I could have done my self! and saved $50

Reply With Quote
  #163  
Old 12-30-2007, 03:00 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
1310 T-case yoke, 1350 pinion yoke.

After everything was installed I am really pushing the limits of the front shaft! I had to install a chain from the frame to the axle to limit the downward movement. I'll need to clock the transfer case down, but for now I had to see how it wheeled.

This is the front drive shaft at the axle end, 1350 joint. Ya it's kind of a tight angle.

Front drive line at the T-case. Here is the CV, the U-joints are right into the relief are that was put on the out put yoke.

Last edited by smashmetal; 01-04-2008 at 03:24 PM. Reason: Added pic's
Reply With Quote
  #164  
Old 12-30-2007, 03:46 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
Dec 29 2007

Well it's been 1 year and 4 months since I started adding a little american engineering to my little Toyota. Before I show the wheelen pic's of it's virgin run in the fresh Utah snow. Here is the curent spec's as of now.

93 Toyota 4runner
Stock V6, stock 5 speed
Ott ind. toyota to dana 300 doubler.
JB conversion dana 300 4:1 low gears.
Front, Tom Woods drive shaft.
Full width Chevy Dana 60 front, detroit locker, 4:56 gears
Skys Manufacturing front full width spring hanger kit, with All Pro 5" springs
Home brewed rear drive shaft.
Full width Chevy 14 bolt, open, 4:46 gears, disk brakes.
Custom rear 4 link, full Currie johnny joints and a few Balistic Fab mounts.
GM mastercylinder pushing the brakes.
39.5" swampers on recentered H1 wheels

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-30-2007 at 03:58 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #165  
Old 12-30-2007, 03:49 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113


Reply With Quote
  #166  
Old 12-30-2007, 03:56 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
One thing that needs to be fixed is the steering. I don't think the stock yota stuff likes pushing 40" tires on a locked dana 60. Needless to say I ruiend a power steering pump. I was happy to have some cold snow that i could throw on the pump and box to keep them cool for a while.
I also have a starting problem, I think I have a short some where. I was able to bump start it to get it going again.


Boiling steering fluid, makes white snow look pretty dirty.
Reply With Quote
  #167  
Old 12-30-2007, 05:47 PM
shaggy10000's Avatar
shaggy10000 shaggy10000 is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Wickenburg, AZ
Posts: 1,205
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashmetal View Post
One thing that needs to be fixed is the steering. I don't think the stock yota stuff likes pushing 40" tires on a locked dana 60.
This is a good kit from what i have heard.
http://www.trail-gear.com/hydro-pump.html
Reply With Quote
  #168  
Old 12-30-2007, 10:52 PM
UNBREAKABLE's Avatar
UNBREAKABLE UNBREAKABLE is offline
Fabricator
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lenoir, North Carolina
Posts: 84
Build your own Hydro assist...



I'm not a fan of Trail-Mart
Reply With Quote
  #169  
Old 12-30-2007, 11:20 PM
shaggy10000's Avatar
shaggy10000 shaggy10000 is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Wickenburg, AZ
Posts: 1,205
I built my own custom setup on my Zuk. I used a 95 toy box and a gm pump. Custom made my own lines and no need to modify my resivoir. but i am also running a gm v6 so that was a easy solution. But for the price and it being a bolt on kit its a great option for some.
I personally have had great luck with Trial gear. Im curious as to why you dont like them?

BTW Smashmetal was that pic in the snow taken today?
Reply With Quote
  #170  
Old 12-30-2007, 11:35 PM
CJcrawler13's Avatar
CJcrawler13 CJcrawler13 is offline
Junior Fabricator
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 22
looks so awesome... both the runner and the Utah snow. Someday I'll be back to play in it to.
Reply With Quote
  #171  
Old 12-31-2007, 04:30 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
Is it worth having an after market steering pump?

I ran my stock GM pump on my blazer for along time, I bored the pressure port out a bit. It helped, but when I installed my 2" PSC steering ram it couldent keep up very well during fast turning situations. Like doing the occasional dougnuts or drifting in the snow. Is a bigger pump going help the system act faster?

By the way shaggy10000, those pics where taken Dec 29th.
Reply With Quote
  #172  
Old 12-31-2007, 04:32 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJcrawler13 View Post
looks so awesome... both the runner and the Utah snow. Someday I'll be back to play in it to.
How ya doing? I bet ya wish ya had your jeep now hu! Say hi to the Fam.
Reply With Quote
  #173  
Old 12-31-2007, 04:47 PM
shaggy10000's Avatar
shaggy10000 shaggy10000 is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Wickenburg, AZ
Posts: 1,205
[quote=smashmetal;32115]Is a bigger pump going help the system act faster?
quote]
This was cut/pasted from the site. "The stock pump puts out 1,300 psi @ one gallon per minute.

The Trail-Gear Rock-AssaultTM pump puts out 1,600 psi of pressure at 4 gallons per minute. This provides the full fluid volume your steering box and ram are looking for, even at an idle.
Volume will make the big difference. The slowness you have is literally just waiting for the fluid to get from the pump to the ram.
I work on hydraulic systems at work and we use similar cylinders for some of our stuff.
with the bigger pumps we have to install restrictors in line to keep things slow and easy for our application. We are using 10+ gpm pumps though.

On the other hand you have a good point about having an aftermarket pump. What happens when it goes out. Your stuck trying to order another one.

Possibly a simpler and cheaper option is changing to a 1.5" bore cylinder. That should net you a considerable ammount of speed but im not sure how much power would be lost if any. Might be worth some experimenting.
Reply With Quote
  #174  
Old 12-31-2007, 06:36 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
[quote=shaggy10000;32117]
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashmetal View Post
Is a bigger pump going help the system act faster?
quote]
This was cut/pasted from the site. "The stock pump puts out 1,300 psi @ one gallon per minute.

The Trail-Gear Rock-AssaultTM pump puts out 1,600 psi of pressure at 4 gallons per minute. This provides the full fluid volume your steering box and ram are looking for, even at an idle.
Volume will make the big difference. The slowness you have is literally just waiting for the fluid to get from the pump to the ram.
I work on hydraulic systems at work and we use similar cylinders for some of our stuff.
with the bigger pumps we have to install restrictors in line to keep things slow and easy for our application. We are using 10+ gpm pumps though.

On the other hand you have a good point about having an aftermarket pump. What happens when it goes out. Your stuck trying to order another one.

Possibly a simpler and cheaper option is changing to a 1.5" bore cylinder. That should net you a considerable ammount of speed but im not sure how much power would be lost if any. Might be worth some experimenting.
When I set up my last rig with hydro assist I used a PSC 2" ram. They sugested this size due to the size of tire I was running. I know that a 1.5" ram quicker, I just wonder how much of a diffrence there is between a 1.5" and 2" ram.
Im leaning toward a 1.5" ram, I agree with ya on using the stock pump now. Much easer to replace or aquire if there happens to be a faliure some where. Besides when I get around to dropping the LT1 down in it ill have the benifit of a GM pump, there not to bad.

EDIT: I got it now! Ill meet in the middle, PSC makes a 1.75" ram.
http://www.offroadsteering.com/

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-31-2007 at 06:47 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #175  
Old 01-01-2008, 11:56 AM
MOCRAWLER's Avatar
MOCRAWLER MOCRAWLER is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: LOCKWOOD, MISSOURI
Posts: 137
So the stock toyota brake system did'nt work huh? I' think i'll go with the willwood stuff too. The 4 runner looks awesome by the way. I'm going to start an axle swap on a toyota buggy,Thanks for the inspiration.
Reply With Quote
  #176  
Old 01-01-2008, 04:59 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOCRAWLER417 View Post
So the stock toyota brake system did'nt work huh? I' think i'll go with the willwood stuff too. The 4 runner looks awesome by the way. I'm going to start an axle swap on a toyota buggy,Thanks for the inspiration.
The stock LSVP system sure got in the way. If I was to do it again I would have keept the stock V6 master cylinder, used a residual on the front brakes as well as the proportining and residual valve in the rear.
The Toyota V6 mastercylinder is really not that much smaller than a GM mastercylinder. Using the residual valves in conjunction with the Toyota master cylinder I think would have keept enought pressure in the lines to make the brake system work. Not to mention having to convert standard and metric brake line fittings using a GM mastercylinder.
Reply With Quote
  #177  
Old 01-01-2008, 08:49 PM
balterbuilt's Avatar
balterbuilt balterbuilt is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 2,332
congratulations Smash! i'm glad to see your rig finally rolling, must be nice. i can't wait to get my truggy going, it's my first real hardcore rig i've built (for myself that is haha).
Reply With Quote
  #178  
Old 01-06-2008, 05:35 PM
smashmetal's Avatar
smashmetal smashmetal is offline
Fasterbater Mabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oregonian liven in Japan
Posts: 1,113
Gathering V8 Parts

Hopefully some one reading this and give some clairty.
Im in the process of collecting the parts needed for getting the LT1 under the hood of the 4runner. Im probably going to be lazy and just purchase some prefabed mounts to save time. Im not getting any clairty about toyota 4 cylinder and V6 frame mounts.
Are the 4 cylinder toyota engine frame mounts diffrent than the V6?

The only reason I ask is cause I've been leaning toward the advanced adapters mounts. I like these because of there built in ajustment.
http://72.20.96.178/commerce/ccpc108...013-713013.htm

Due to my stupid front drive line angle Im going to try to get the engine as far back a possiable to lengthen things a bit. It should be pretty easy to do cause the LT1 uses the Opti spark so no distributor taking up space at the fire wall.
Reply With Quote
  #179  
Old 01-06-2008, 06:08 PM
Powerlinek9's Avatar
Powerlinek9 Powerlinek9 is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 115
i bought those mounts....(shaking head) money not well spent motor sits SOOO high. i'm gonna get a paid subscription so i can show you a picture of how i did my mounts. it was simple clean and "Robust" haha. i'll try to explain it in case i have troubles getting my subscription paid. i cut the stock motor mounts off the frame and ground it clean. cut two pieces of tubing to fit large leaf spring bushings. bought 4 leaf spring bushings to fit. cut two pieces of 2x2 square tubing and notched the end to fit the tubing at 90*. made two plates with the 3 hole pattern to bolt on the side of the block and welded two tabs with holes on the ends. you can then hang your motor in the engine bay, drop it down and push it back to where you need it, and center it. cut the square tubing to fit and weld it in place. after that you just need to make a transmission cross member. sorry if that was confusing. like i said. i'll post pictures as soon as i can.

i don't know if this link will work or not and the picture isn't very good but you might be able to see what i mean from it.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=1274647&al bumID=715787&imageID=21623834

Last edited by Powerlinek9; 01-06-2008 at 06:57 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #180  
Old 01-06-2008, 08:11 PM
Rokcrler's Avatar
Rokcrler Rokcrler is offline
Master Fabricator
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hsv. Ala
Posts: 705
Smash... those mounts do seem to raise the motor a bit which wont help your DS angle. This is what i did on my magnum cause i wanted to push it as far back as possible due to DS angle as well. Motor sits nice and low with ample room. Where are you mounting the radiator?

HTH..
~Mo
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:53 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Template-Modifications by TMS
Copyright 2012, Offroad Fabrication Network