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Introductions/Connections Introduce yourself, your rig, your skillz....Get Connected with someone


Introductions/Connections Introduce yourself, your rig, your skillz....Get Connected with someone

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  #141  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:12 PM
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Brakes Are Done!!!

Finally I figured out my brake problems, it was due to a couple of things but here is how to make them work they way they should during a swap like this!
I broke down and purchased a willwood proportining valve and a residual valve to place on the rear brake line. The residual valve keeps 2lbs of presure on the rear brakes. Why is this good? cause the rear bowl on the mastercylinder is made for a drum brake and is much smaller than the front bowl. It takes more fluid to push disk brakes than drum brakes, thus keeping 2lbs up back pressure to the rear brakes means that less fluid will pushed from the back bowl of the mastercyinder.
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  #142  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:16 PM
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Next problem I found even before I added the proportining and residual valves is that I had no pedal. So a few things had to go, Like the LSPV and the ABS crap.

By, By

Much cleaner! and takes up much less space.
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  #143  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:22 PM
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Had to reajust some stuff here to it's kinda hard to explain so just make sure you pay close attention to wich brake lines I removed or moved around. I basicaly just cleaned things up a bit to make it less complicated.
Here is one of the 2 lines that went to the rear LSPV, there only needs to be 1 brake line for the rear. Notice how I just simply removed it and caped the end.

Cheap line cap. Just weld up a flare fitting.

Now that takes care of the rear.
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  #144  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:25 PM
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I removed 2 brake lines that ran to the ABS pump, keep in mid to look closely cause some of the pic's may look alike.
before.

removing more crap, Notice how I removed the lower brake line(the one with no fitting) and moved it up to the upper elbow fitting.

all cleaned up.

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-17-2007 at 08:27 PM. Reason: info
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  #145  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:34 PM
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It's not pictured but there are 2ea brake lines that I removed totaly. They run directly out of the ABS pump and run in a rear direction.


Next problem, Sky's manufacturing GM master cylinder adapter came with a push rod that go's between the master cylinder and the brake booster.


This is why I had no pedal! I had forgot to install it.

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-17-2007 at 08:42 PM. Reason: info
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  #146  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:41 PM
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When I installed it I ended up with to much pedal, too much as in it was the pedal wouldent move it was locked. So using some of the kids playdoe I shoved some between mastercylinder and the brake booster bolted everything up and then took it apart to see what kind of gap I had. I was finally right! there was a 1/2 gap. thus the reason I had no pedal. Any way I had to shorten the push rod that Sky's Manufacturing had sent with the adapter.

Next best thing to a lathe! After cutting first of course.

this should work!

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-17-2007 at 08:43 PM.
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  #147  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:47 PM
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Now! I can get my new parts on but I had to make a mouting surface for the ajustable proportining valve. I ended up with this.


Had to ajust and make some brake lines but it ended up ok.

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  #148  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:53 PM
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Good to see you got it worked out!
For the master, im using a MC P/N 10-1534 from a 79 GM 2wd 1ton nonhydroboost.. same size bowls
The prop valve and extension make a world of difference

Edit: Also ditched the booster and since i couldnt get anyone to sell me the GM/import adapter i braced the firewall and bolted it directly. Love my brakes.
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  #149  
Old 12-17-2007, 08:54 PM
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The residual valve directions said to keep it as close to the master cylinder as possiable but it was to crowded so I found a nice spot on the frame. I tryed to put it in a location so I could get a clamp on it.

With all that said about the brakes, they finally work and work good! I can now say brakes are done.

I love buying my own Christmas presents! but the wife says I can't have it untill Christmas, so there it lays. Tom Wood front drive shaft, 1350 at the pinion with a 1350 CV at the T-case.
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  #150  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokcrler View Post
Good to see you got it worked out!
For the master, im using a MC P/N 10-1534 from a 79 GM 2wd 1ton nonhydroboost.. same size bowls
The prop valve and extension make a world of difference

Edit: Also ditched the booster and since i couldnt get anyone to sell me the GM/import adapter i braced the firewall and bolted it directly. Love my brakes.
I had a hellava time weeding out all the crap on line about brake conversions. Im glad I got it worked out too! I was getting tired of going through brake fluid testing all the diffrent approaches.
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  #151  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:08 PM
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Now i really feel like an a** I coulda sworn i sent you the 'perfect parts list'. I had most of the same issues during my build

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  #152  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:10 PM
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I had to throw up some pic's of this guys 4runner. He has a back ground of doing low riders so air bags are second nature to him.




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  #153  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokcrler View Post
Now i really feel like an a** I coulda sworn i sent you the 'perfect parts list'. I had most of the same issues during my build

LOL, I musta got caught up in all the other vast amount on internet B.S.
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  #154  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:43 PM
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i don't like the triangulated bracing on his lower links, looks like it will fold!
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  #155  
Old 12-20-2007, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balterbuilt View Post
i don't like the triangulated bracing on his lower links, looks like it will fold!
Ya he's allready boogered one up, it's on the list of things to fix. He's also going to get rid of the lower TJ style links and go with a 3 link instead. He orignaly was going to put tubing on the lower side and fill the gap with some flared hole steel. Im sure he may do that now.

After I saw what he did I had visions of removing the coil springs on rear of mine and replacing with an air bag! Ill add it to the idea list.
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  #156  
Old 12-20-2007, 09:15 PM
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i've always wanted to bad my blazer, i might just have to fallow your lead since i am redoing the rear suspension right now.
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  #157  
Old 12-20-2007, 10:09 PM
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by balterbuilt View Post
i've always wanted to bad my blazer, i might just have to fallow your lead since i am redoing the rear suspension right now.
I think you should go ahead and bag yours first. That way I can learn from your mistakes!
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  #158  
Old 12-30-2007, 02:20 PM
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Finally Christmas had come and it was time to get some more goodies on!

I had about 2 days to get the detroit locker in the front, front drive shaft in, quick alignment, get things greased cause I was hitten the trail when it was done!
First was the locker, got the front end stripped and ready. had to order and install kit from Randys Ring and Pinion to get the locker installed.

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-30-2007 at 02:30 PM.
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  #159  
Old 12-30-2007, 02:27 PM
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If you've ever had to remove a carrier before they can be a real pain. The last locker install I did to a front dana 60 was on my blazer wich had the winch in it. So I just pulled the cable down hooked it to the carrier and gave it a tug.
I wasent so lucky this time, Not having gotten my winch on the 4runner yet. I can't take credit for this trick but it works really well. get a rag to feed between the ring gear and the pinion. when you get it started, spin the pinion and this will force the rag farther between the gears causing the carrier to be forced out of the housing. Make sure you have the bearing caps of the carrier thought. You can see the pry bar that I have through the u-bolts on the pinion yoke so help spin the gear.

Last edited by smashmetal; 12-30-2007 at 02:31 PM.
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  #160  
Old 12-30-2007, 02:37 PM
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Now that the old carrier was out I needed to get the bearings off so I could measure the old shims to get a starting point for the set up. All i had was a gear puller so I came up with this so I could get the bearings off, I needed to keep them in one peice to help later.


I used a socket close to the same diameter as the hole.

then just used a 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapter to use a center for my puller.

Like so.

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