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  #1  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:53 PM
BenMar's Avatar
BenMar BenMar is offline
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Location: Iowa City , Iowa
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Question Wiring Harness info please !

I'm placing a ' 53 Studebaker pickup truck body onto a ' 96 Explorer chassis. The Ford has only 61,000 miles on it , and I believe this will make a cool truck. I'll be using the 4.0 L engine and the automatic trans. Also going to use the Ford steering column & controls as well as the Ford instruments.

The Explorer has miles of wiring I will not need anymore , like door locks , window lift controls, remote mirrors , etc. Does anyone know of a firm that offers a new wiring harness for using just the basics , or perhaps written documents describing how to thin-out the Ford harness ?

Thanks for any suggestions !
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2010, 01:03 PM
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streetwerkz streetwerkz is offline
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Ford Explorer 1996

Remote Starter Wiring Colors

Function
Vehicle Color
Location

Start
RED/L BLUE
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition #1
L GREEN/PURPLE
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition #2
GRAY/YELLOW
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition #3
GRAY/YELLOW
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS**

Accessory
BLACK/LT. GREEN
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Brake light
L GREEN (+)
AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

Tachometer signal
TAN/YELLOW
PIN ##AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE*

Parking lights
WHITE/BLACK (+)
AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH ***

Headlights
RED/YELLOW (+)
AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

Diesel glow plug



Clutch bypass wire



Note
* Powertrain Control Module Located On Passenger Rear Of Engine CompartmentOn Firewall. **See Note #127. Must be powered with a relay. All DesignTech remtoe starters except the 2xx22 have an ignition 3 output - It is a white/black wire located in the control harness.




Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors

Function
Vehicle Color
Location

Constant +12 volts
YELLOW (2)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

OEM alarm disarm
D GREEN/PURPLE (-)
IN #PIN CONN. IN DR. KICK PANEL

Dome lights/superv
BLACK/L BLUE (+)
PASSENGER KICK PANEL

OEM horn
YELLOW/GREEN (-)
STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

Power lock
PINK/YELLOW
DRIVER'S KICK PANEL **

Power unlock
PINK/L GREEN
DRIVER'S KICK PANEL **

Trunk release
N/A


Alarm input wire
BLACK/L BLUE (+)
PASSENGER KICK PANEL

Note
* Parking Lights Also Found As WHITE/PURPLE (+) In Driver Kick Panel. ** See Note #201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.


Ford Vehicles (#127)

In case you hadnít seen it or noticed, 1994+ full size FORD trucks are available with factory keyless entry systems. On these trucks, like all FORD vehicles with FACTORY (as opposed to dealer installed) keyless entry systems, the door locks will be negative, not reversing polarity. The colors stay the same, Pink/Yellow for lock & Pink/Green for unlock.

Also, on these trucks, if you want to be able to use the OEM keyless while the vehicle is running on the AutoCommand, just do not connect the DTI white 14 AWG accessory output. As long as the FORD Black/Green accessory wire does not see voltage, the OEM keyless will continue to operate. Please note that in many Ford vehicles the AC compressor will not function if you do not power this Black/Green.

High current draw blowers on Ford Cars and 96-Older Trucks

Many older Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles are equipped with blower motors that draw an unusally high amount of current. Because of this high current draw, we recommend wiring the Ignition 3 relay as per the diagram below, to handle the high current demands. Please be sure to SOLDER when making the connections below.

The vehicles most notable for requiring this are Ford vehicles with multiple Gray/Yellow circuits. These vehicles typically have three Gray/Yellow wires, two 12 AWG wires and one 16 AWG wire. On these vehicles you need to connect the AutoCommandís Ignition 2 (Green) wire to one of the 16 AWG wires. Some Ford vehicles have only one Gray/Yellow -just connect it to ignition 2 of the AutoCommand. If the vehicle has only 2 thick Gray/Yellow wires, then one should be connected to Ignition2, the other powered with a relay as in the diagram below. Connect the AutoCommandģís Accessory (White) wire to the 12 AWG Black/Green.

If you have a vehicle with multiple Gray/Yellow wires, in order for the blower and AC compressor to function properly you must wire the AutoCommandís Ignition 3 wire (negative 400 ma output) to a relay which will supply +12 volts to the vehicleís two 12 AWG Gray/Yellow Wires use the diagram below.


These vehicles typically have blower circuits that can draw over 30 amps. Because of this high current draw, we recommend wiring the Ignition 3 relay as per the diagram below, to handle the high current demands. Please be sure to SOLDER when making the connections below.

The vehicles with rear heat are the most notable for requiring this Ignition 3. Please see our Vehicle Wiring Guide for help in determining if your vehicle needs Ignition3 connected. For Ford vehicles please see page 1 of this Installation note.



Negative Door Lock Circuit (#201)

Negative door locks are among the easiest of all door lock systems to interface to. The door lock switch in the vehicle will typically have some voltage on it. When lock/unlock is pressed the voltage will fall to zero. Connect negative door lock systems per the diagrams below.

When testing for lock / unlock / trunk wires, closely follow the instructions and when checking electrical connections, use a volt meter (multi-meter, voltage meter, etc.), DO NOT use a test light. It is easy to accidentally damage the circuitry in modern vehicles testing for wires with a test light.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:18 PM
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BenMar BenMar is offline
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Thanks for all the info - It will help a lot !
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2010, 03:05 PM
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MasterYota MasterYota is offline
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You might also consider a harness from a 4.0L equiped rig that was a base model truck with no frills. It'll have alot less wire to begin with...
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:56 PM
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Rich- Rich- is offline
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I would look into ronfranciswiring.com or its a snap wiring harnesses. I have used both, and they both worked perfect. Although, I think it is just easier to buy the wire in bulk, relays etc and just make your own harness. I have done this to the last several cars I have bought and its really not too bad, just takes time.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:52 AM
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kidstf kidstf is offline
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Also used Ron Francis kit on mine. Suggest you dont use his BareBonz kit, although it works fine, I could have used a few more terminals for future expansion. You might want to check out EZ wiring, or Painless. As it is, I had to add a "pony panel" to add more fuses for accessorys, but his kits are complete, good instructions, and all the wires are marked with thier funtion about every 6"
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Old 12-04-2010, 06:30 PM
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wyoming9 wyoming9 is offline
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Red face

Also be sure to keep good electrical diagrams.

if down the road you sell this to some one else.
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