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  #141  
Old 09-28-2012, 11:02 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Well, I did the calcs for the seat pressure of the exhaust valve springs and their area and I can have 47 psi back pressure before the exhaust valves blow off of their seats. I can find an inexpensive waste gate that I can set to 30 psi so I am going to start there and see if that is enough braking force. If not then I'll creep the pressure up to 40 psi, but this will be my max unless I change out the valve springs. At one point I did some calcs and determined that I should be able to get 20-30 ft lb of braking torque out of this little engine, about what you would feel from a V6/8 gasser with the throttle closed decelerating.

Crap I just reread E's question and realized that he was asking how much pressure to actuate the air cylinder for the brake. It must be early in the morning. I am just guessing here, but I would say that I am going to need about 60 psi or so the actuate the air cylinder (this comes from sticking an air nozzle in the supply for the air cylinder to see that it works). I will tie it to a regulated air source before I install it to make sure. But I don't think boost from the turbo will do it.

Thanx for looking,
Jaysin
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  #142  
Old 09-28-2012, 06:43 PM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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I'm watching to!!thanks for great Thread,on the Exh brake-how about replacing the air cyl with a push,pull cable setup?,might be easier to sync and control amount of Exh braking, lot cheaper to
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  #143  
Old 09-29-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 350 Vortec View Post
I'm watching to!!thanks for great Thread,on the Exh brake-how about replacing the air cyl with a push,pull cable setup?,might be easier to sync and control amount of Exh braking, lot cheaper to
I really like the concept of manual, with maybe a lever above the throttle pedal that you could lift with your toe
I have never liked the idea of an OBA that is engine driven. While I have built several I would never own one, electric or a charged cylinder would be my choice, but the controls if you want to feather this valve rather then just open or closed would be a PITA with Air pressure.....

E
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  #144  
Old 10-20-2012, 05:03 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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So this project has been moving along, albeit slowly as of the last week or two. You know how that work thing gets in the way of the fun.

I had ordered parts and was eagerly awaiting them while getting work done.

I got 4 Bilstein Shocks, 12" for the front and 14" for the rear. I probably could have gone with 10" and 12" respectively but figured the extra length didn't cost anything and gives me room to grow. I still need to make bump stops.

In front I used the stock axle mount and lengthened the stock frame mount with a bit of 1/4 x 1 1/2 flat bar. I've got about 3.5-4" bump and the rest in droop.





In the rear I made axle mounts that are welded to the top of the axle tube (well tacked right now, they'll get welded up when the rear comes out for cleanup) and the top of the shock mounts to one of the flatbed cross members with a reinforcement plate (just tacked as well) and sleeves for the through bolts. Here I've got about 4-4.5" bump and the rest in droop.







I have yet to do this work but I received the 10" slip joint from TG for my front driveshaft.



And one of several things taking up my time while working. These are stairs for a client. Rather heavy stairs. 1/4" plate steps on 2 x 6 x .250" wall stringers and 1/4" triangular filler plates in the steps.



Still have a bit to do on them but I am waiting on the client for a few measurements.

So that's what I've been doing. I am waiting on a few parts to finish up my injector pump mods and bolt it back on. I think I have the heater plumbing figured out for the engine. The flat bed will likely come off again to get a bunch done on it one day this week. But as they say, "the best laid plans of mice and men...", we'll see just how much I get done.

Thanx for playing along.
Jaysin
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  #145  
Old 10-25-2012, 03:26 PM
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Twisted Minis Twisted Minis is offline
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This project is simply awesome.
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  #146  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:11 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Thanx Twisted.

Update.

I have been working away on this and I have the Exhaust system all tacked together and hung. I still need to pull it and weld it completely. It is all 304 SS including the brackets and the V-band clamps. I need to refill my second argon bottle before I weld it up as I need to purge it to get the best and strongest welds I can. Right now it is just straight piped and if it turns out too loud I will have to add a muffler of some sort but for now it's just open. Enough yakking, the pictures aren't the bes as I couldn't really get far enough away laying under the truck.

This is the front where it comes back from the down pipe. You can also see the exhaust brake here.


Crossing over to the driver's side behind the trans/transfer case.


Out from under the cab and up for clearance.


The tail pipe and rear hanger.


Mid hanger attached to the stock rear shock crossmember.


And this is a hard bracket to the transfer case. This supports the down pipe and exhaust brake so that they move as one with the engine/trans. I will likely add one more further forward for greater support of the down pipe off the turbo.


I hope to have the injectors back in a few days and soon I will be pulling the engine and whatnot to install the clutch, injector pump, and pulling the pan to modify the position of the oil drain plug. While it's out I hope to strip the stock wiring that I don't need and paint the engine compartment.

Does anyone have any Ideas on the best way to paint an engine compartment without having to pull everything out of it? Or should I just bite the bullet and pull all the lines and master cylinder, etc., etc...?

Well back to work.

Thanx for looking.
Jaysin

Last edited by JaysinSpaceman; 11-09-2012 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Fix Spelling
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  #147  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
I need to refill my second argon bottle before I weld it up as I need to purge it to get the best and strongest welds I can.
Yes a purge is the ultimate way but in my experience with a low temp exhaust which is what this or any diesel system is, you will get effectively the same results with Solar Flux and really you dont need it at all if you are using a lens.
True if you are not purging or shielding the inside you will get some carbon-presip but not enough to weaken the joint in the application and down steam from the turbo it does not matter..
Just a thought.
E
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  #148  
Old 11-09-2012, 02:35 PM
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Those exhaust hangers are awesome! Seriously.

I don't know what you're trying to achieve with the engine bay paint job, but sometimes it looks good to have fastened bolts and lines painted over in place. The problem is when you R&R them the paint will chip or you'll have unpainted areas underneath. I have that sorta thing all over on my Nova, but for the first few years it looked really nice. I did a combination of paint-in-place and paint separate. Basically whatever I felt was going to be permanent or near permanently attached I painted in place while things that would get taken apart for service or upgrades I painted separately. I did make sure anything that might rust was painted or plated somehow before going into an assembly. Actually now that I think of it, most of it looked great even when I started taking it apart for the LS swap - it's just at that point I started chipping the paint off and around fasteners. If you're doing a spray-bomb job that's easy to touch up, it may not matter much either way. Just my thoughts - as you know I am not expert.
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  #149  
Old 11-09-2012, 02:43 PM
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Those exhaust hangers are awesome! Seriously.

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Agreed! Very nicely done.
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  #150  
Old 11-14-2012, 05:02 AM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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Lovely quality work,exhaust is super and yes i'd purge,cant see you doing it any other way anyway,IMO air/gas/water- smooth inside is just as important
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  #151  
Old 11-15-2012, 08:17 AM
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FWIW, I don't think you'll find a straight pipe to be too bad. I had a 2.25 straightpipe on my Jetta with a 1.9IDI. And the turbo on the TDI quiets them down even more.

Project looks great btw.
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  #152  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:22 PM
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Re: engine bay

As for painting the engine bay this the easiest way I have found. Pull loose what you can in the way of wiring and hoses. Use some mechanics wire or electric fence wire to pull back what you can. Use a quality automotive tape such as 3m green tape to outline mask various parts. Now for the magic product that will make your masking life easy, ALUMINUM FOIL. Aluminum foil can be formed and wrapped around wiring, hoses and odd shaped parts. Foil is a lot easier to work with than masking paper and miles of masking tape stuck to everything.
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  #153  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:33 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Yeah an update, it's about damn time.

So I have been busy with a bunch of work and other stuff and of course the personal stuff takes a back seat to the paying work. I have been doing work on this project but most of it really doesn't show. Like fixing a wee bit of rust in one front fender, removing a few broken off rusted stuck bolts, finishing some welding here and there, etc...

I do have a few pictures for you of somewhat interesting work. I welded up the turbo down pipe and found a waste gate to use for my DIY exhaust brake, bent up a pressure signal line to actuate the waste gate. This waste gate is set for 28 psi of back pressure which I am hoping will be enough braking force. If not I will have to add springs to it or figure out how to make it adjustable as it is not an adjustable waste gate.

Down pipe, waste gate, exhaust butterfly. As you can see the waste gate just dumps to the atmosphere, it really shouldn't be very loud as it will only be venting during deceleration. Worst I would think is it will make a hissing or fluttering noise.


Close up of the WG and the stainless pressure signal line.


As it is installed on the truck. It tucks nicely out of the way and clears everything well.


Remote oil filter mount. Cut out of 12g SS just because I had the SS laying around.


And the oil drain back for the turbo. Made from the original stock drain back hose ends (I couldn't seem to find a source for the solder/braze on banjo fittings which is why I decided to reuse them) and some 1/2" SS tubing for the hose barbs which I TIG brazed in place. I would have photographed this in place on the engine but you really wouldn't be able to see it in the picture. As installed it has a nice constant slope down from the turbo to the return on the block so it shouldn't ever have problems returning oil.


I also mad up a new turbo oil feed line which needed a reused banjo fitting as well but I didn't bother to take a picture of it as it really isn't that exciting.

I also received my rebuilt injectors back with their new Bosio PowerPlus 764 nozzles, all cleaned and pop tested and calibrated. They should really wake this little motor up. The injector pump is also all buttoned up and I will be installing it when the motor comes back out for the clutch and engine compartment paint, etc...

I'll keep posting as I do work (which I hope to be able to do more regularly) and thanx for watching.

Jaysin
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  #154  
Old 12-23-2012, 10:03 AM
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Lonnie-S Lonnie-S is offline
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Very nice work throughout. I'm enjoying following your build log. When you are building your fabricating skills from zero as I am, it's great to have examples like your rig for inspiration and encouragement.

Cheers,
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  #155  
Old 12-26-2012, 12:34 PM
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Put a "Supertrap" on that exhaust dump.
Not for the muffler function but for spark arrestor(sp?) function.
What you have now while functional, is illegal in our national forests in the summer time as are all straight through type mufflers.

E
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  #156  
Old 12-29-2012, 10:16 AM
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^ Does that qualify for diesels too, since the only time I've *EVER* seen fire come out a diesel exhaust is when the engine exploded, or the guy washed his stacks at a truck rodeo.

Honest question, I would assume the law is indiscriminate, but the backpressure of a Supertrapp style tip would be hugely detrimental to a turbodiesel motor.
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  #157  
Old 12-29-2012, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DJPyro View Post
^ Does that qualify for diesels too, since the only time I've *EVER* seen fire come out a diesel exhaust is when the engine exploded, or the guy washed his stacks at a truck rodeo.

Honest question, I would assume the law is indiscriminate, but the backpressure of a Supertrapp style tip would be hugely detrimental to a turbodiesel motor.
The law is indiscriminate as I understand it. I suggest the super-trap only because it is a recognized "Spark Arrester" and if one used just the disk section in the largest size with a huge stack of disks performance might not be too bad.
Dumping like it is is a no-no as I read the laws all exhaust mush have a Spark Arrester thus straight pipes and straight through mufflers are not allowed; a baffled muffler "supposedly" functions as a Spark Arrestor.
I got educated with a verbal warning, granted a Big Block into 3" duals with Race Magnum (straight through) and dumping b4 the rear axle did tend to thump a little

I'm wondering if it can be dumped back into the exhaust farther down stream below the brake.
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  #158  
Old 12-30-2012, 12:40 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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The Ex-brake dump could get plumbed back into the exhaust system after the brake butterfly but the dump will not be used except off throttle coasting and should see nothing but compressed air. It's not really acting as a waste gate anymore, eg. not dumping hot exhaust to slow the turbine. I'll wait for someone to slap me on the wrist, particularly until I know whether it works as advertised or not.

As for the straight pipe exhaust, I would think the turbine itself would make a great spark arrester. Hell it's got to chop up any sparks that come out of the cylinders. Seems to me that a turbocharged diesel really wouldn't need a spark arrester.

Jaysin
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  #159  
Old 01-23-2013, 10:57 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Another update, things have been moving a little slower then I would like but they are moving.

The exhaust has been fully welded, I showed the turbo down pipe all done but now the rest is done too. I added a 10" flex piece to it to help with vibrations.


I also got some work done on the flatbed. All the mounts for the wood are welded in as are stake pockets. And the tie-down rails have been finished along the sides.

Passenger side. (The gap in the rail here is where the fuel filler will come through the bed rail, just haven't gotten there yet.)


Driver's side.


The rails will get sliding anchor points that can be positioned anywhere along the rail or removed and stowed away. I don't like D-rings because they rattle and clank and I don't need more rattling then the little diesel will be giving me. The rails are held on with stainless steel countersunk bolts, I think they'll look really good once the bed is painted black.

Extended rear shackle. (the top bolt is just temporary, I didn't have a bolt the right length)




I was originally thinking I would do the sliders in the rear too but the more I thought about it and how much they would stick down and add weight it just didn't make sense. The front sliders were done for a specific reason, I needed the travel of a long shackle but didn't want the added height because I want to stay reasonably low and the sliders fit the bill. What are people's thoughts about the shackle angle I have here? It's 10-12 degrees from vertical.

Well it's a short update but it is progress.

Thanx for looking and keeping me motivated,
Jaysin
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  #160  
Old 01-25-2013, 12:53 AM
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Angle is on the steep side for ride quality, but presumably they will sink some as the weight increases...
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