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  #121  
Old 08-08-2012, 11:07 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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I've got a wee update. My customer meeting got canceled today so I had all day to dick around on my projects. So today I tackled the mounting of the intercooler and started on the charge air piping.

Here's the intercooler mounted. It fits behind the stock grill (just barely) and besides the intercooler itself it shouldn't block too much air to the radiator. You can also see how I had to modify the hood latch support to clear the intercooler.



Here's a close up of the two sheet metal mounts. It is really solid in there.



Turbo to intercooler plumbing all tacked together.



I thought I'd share a little tool I came up with today, this is just a "proof of concept". I figured there had to be a more accurate way to cut U-bends so today I came up with this slide that sits over my band saw table. You set the U-bend over the center circle and position it at the angle you want to cut and then push it through the saw. If you want to do another size of tube or another radius of bend all you have to do is cut out another alignment circle and bolt it to the slide because the slide stays centered. It's an MDF slide with a piece of sheet metal screwed to the edge which guides along the edge of the band saw table. I pre cut the slot the band goes through to cut the part with my skill saw so that the blade would have some clearance. Sorry I don't have any complete U-bends to show but I thought about taking the pictures at the end of the day.



I threw a 90 on it to give you a better Idea.



And lastly, I cut out the exhaust flange a few days ago but haddn't gotten a picture so I thought I'd add it here.



There's today's update. Hopefully I will receive my SS tubing for the exhaust manifold in a day or two and can start on it soon too.

Thanx,
Jaysin

Edit for Bandit: THe flat bed is going to be something between hard mount and bushed. I am planning on 1/4" rubber sheet for some isolation, but that is it.

Last edited by JaysinSpaceman; 08-09-2012 at 12:16 AM.
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  #122  
Old 08-09-2012, 12:53 AM
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Chocflip201 Chocflip201 is offline
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Looking good! Thats a good tool to eliminate the friction of the tube and the bandsaw table that should definitely help control the tube a lot better as it goes through its cut.
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  #123  
Old 08-09-2012, 01:19 AM
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entropy entropy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
Turbo to intercooler plumbing all tacked together.
Going to recommend that you add one more flex coupling preferably a bulge type down near the Turbo. Think about how your tube is going to move as the engine rocks and or pulls under torque loading.
Just my aught-two

E
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  #124  
Old 08-09-2012, 02:59 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chocflip201 View Post
Looking good! Thats a good tool to eliminate the friction of the tube and the bandsaw table that should definitely help control the tube a lot better as it goes through its cut.
While it does relieve some friction its main purpose is so every cut is made across the tube directly at the center point of the bend. This way all the joints end up with a smooth transition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
Going to recommend that you add one more flex coupling preferably a bulge type down near the Turbo. Think about how your tube is going to move as the engine rocks and or pulls under torque loading.
Just my aught-two

E
E~ What the hell do you call those types of joints? I have seen them before but I have no Idea what to call them. And you are right the more I looked at that picture the more I thought that it should have two flex joints, one right after the bend exiting the turbo and one just before the bend entering the intercooler.

Thanx, back at cha
Jaysin
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  #125  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:57 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Never mind, I found them. They're called, of all things, "silicone hump connectors". Real scientific right? Anyway, I've got 2 on order.

Later,
Jaysin
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  #126  
Old 08-11-2012, 01:02 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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One more quick update. I got the stainless for the exhaust manifold and couldn't help myself this afternoon. I will be honest here, I had decided to build a true header but in the interest of getting this project back on the road I have gone back to the easier (and cheaper) route of a swept log style manifold. That said I still think it will work fairly well and a hell of a lot better then the stock cast iron one. Once I get it back on the road I can always make a few weeks work of building a real header, and spend $350 on bends and collector. I just don't want that old scope creep to keep this thing off the road.

Anyway, the pictures. Sorry that they are crappy cell phone pics but I was in a hurry. All the parts are made but I have yet to tack it all together.





I'm off on the annual summer family lake trip. Drink beer, swim, wake board, relax and hang out.

Thanx for looking,
Jaysin
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  #127  
Old 08-17-2012, 12:07 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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So I'm back from a really nice break and I dove right into it as I am waiting on a little paying work. Anyway the pictures will show more then I can write. I only tacked the new manifold together as I need to get my purge gas bottle refilled but I can get started on the turbo down pipe started.

Up close.


And overall.


And as suggested I found some silicone "hump" connectors and redid the charge air plumbing.


Short update but I am getting stuff done. Hopefully I'll have another update soon.

Thanx for looking.
Jaysin
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  #128  
Old 08-17-2012, 12:17 AM
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entropy entropy is offline
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...so this has happened several times lately.
I did reply with the info on the bulge connector.
Several links and part numbers etc.
The reply appeared to post, at-least it looked like it did and I see today that it never did...
WTF???

E
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  #129  
Old 08-17-2012, 01:21 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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It is what it is E. Thanx for trying.

What do ya think of the out pipes?

J
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  #130  
Old 08-17-2012, 01:36 AM
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One connector is blue, one is black. This may hurt performance. Recommend all black or all blue connectors. Otherwise looks bitchin', boss, awesome, super pimpalicious.
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  #131  
Old 09-19-2012, 12:19 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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So while I haven't been updating this build I have been doing things in between work, you know you gotta pay the bills.

First up, my exhaust manifold is now all welded up. I purged it with argon and carefully welded away. It did pull a wee bit but nothing that I can't surface out of the flange, probably less then .010".





I also started the turbo down pipe. As is the manifold, this is also 304 stainless and I will continue with 304 out the back. It may be a bit more expensive now but it will never need rebuilding due to rust. So far it is just tacked together I will wait to get more of the system built before I weld it up.



I also went to the junkyard and scrounged an aluminum radiator out of a V6 4runner. Then I proceeded to cut off the plastic tanks to make it work with the swap (I did this same thing to build the radiator in my 37 Chevy pickup, saved me $300 over buying one). See, the Tdi being out of a wrong wheel drive car has both of the coolant hoses (supply and return) on the side of the engine that used to face forward and this wouldn't work with the stock radiator. So the top and bottom hose connections are now on the same side of the core on the drivers side.



Now before anyone pitches a fit about how this is going to short circuit the radiator core I also built a baffle into the top tank to make sure that the coolant doesn't short circuit and is distributed across the whole core. You can see the baffle in this next picture. There are holes across the length of the baffle (the area of the holes are slightly greater then the area of the hose inlet) and also an opening at the opposite end of the tank where the original inlet was. I have the bottom tank welded to the core but I still have to weld the top tank on. (Man, do I ever need more practice TIG welding aluminum, especially thin material, although the old core doesn't help either. It won't leak but it isn't the prettiest.)



The next picture is of the inter cooler piping that I moved to clear the Ford Taurus electric fan that I picked up at the junkyard as well. I had to re-clock the compressor housing a wee bit and add 2" to the bend that goes through the core support. I have designed a fan shroud that I hope to build later this week or early next week as time allows.



After reading about other swaps of these Tdi's into Toyotas and the problems of holding the low end torque with the 8.75" clutches (even the 1600# MC clutches aren't doing the trick) one fellow came up with the fact that you can remachine a late 9.25" 22re or 22rte flywheel to accept the 5vz-fe V6 10" clutch. So I followed suit and machined up a flywheel.



And last but not least we have the puzzle of the week. Not one but two Bosch VE injector pumps torn appart at the same time. We have the far pump that is all mechanical (originally from a Cummins 4bt) and the electronic VE pump that came on the Tdi. From here is is a matter of swapping and modifying parts to get the Tdi to run (correctly) without a computer. To tell the truth the Bosch VE injector pumps are much simpler then people make them out to be. For some reason people think they are magic but they are a very logical mechanical apparatus and have fewer moving parts then I somehow imagined. None the less, it is a bit disconcerting to have two of them apart at the same time.



I hope to post more soon. I have a few days work to bust out and then it's back to the swap.

Thanx for watching at home,
Jaysin
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  #132  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:26 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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I got some time this afternoon to finish up my radiator and the fan shroud. I think I said before that I had grabbed a Ford Taurus two speed electric fan from the junk yard that I was planning on using and as it turns out it will work good but the fact that it has a deep motor (read big and powerful) makes it a bit of a tight fit. Enough yakking, on to the pictures.



You can see the slits I cut on the bend points for the fan support, these will be welded up before it's put in service.


These next two show just how much room the fan takes up between the radiator and turbo. I have to install the radiator from the top and the fan shroud barely squeezes in from the bottom. I may need to remove the turbo to get it all in once the parts are all painted so as to avoid scratching everything.




Man do these Taurus fans suck and by suck I mean move a butt load of air.

On to the next challenge.

Thanx for looking,
Jaysin
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  #133  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:28 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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P.S. I also got the top tank of the radiator welded up too. While my aluminum TIG still needs more practice the top welds look better then the bottom.
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  #134  
Old 09-25-2012, 12:23 AM
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nonhog nonhog is offline
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Just curious as I've considered using the same engine.
Ever drive one?
If so what were your thoughts. Pros/Cons?

Loving the build!
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  #135  
Old 09-25-2012, 11:29 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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I have never driven a Toyota pickup with a Tdi however I have spent plenty of time behind the wheel of a 2003 VW Golf Tdi and I really think it is the best of small diesels on the market. I think the low rpm torque will really be befitting of the 4 wheel drive truck, more so then the 3600 rpm torque peak of the 22r. Don't get me wrong I don't think this truck will be a rocket or anything but I do think it will be better then a stocker by a long shot and hopefully still knock down 35+/- MPG.

Thanx,
Jaysin
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  #136  
Old 09-25-2012, 11:32 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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I am hoping that someone might know how big the safety bead needs to be on turbo piping? I am making up a beading tool and the first set of dies I turned up only raise a bead about .020" or so. Is this going to be enough or should I cut some new dies that raise a taller bead?

Thanx,
Jaysin
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  #137  
Old 09-27-2012, 11:20 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Another little bit of work done, I finished the cold side of the intercooler plumbing today. It was a tight squeeze to get it to clear the battery in it's stock location and I had to use a silicone elbow to do it but I guess you need to make compromises occasionally. I think it turned out well and my aluminum TIG skills are coming back little by little.







And I also received the 2.5" factory Jacobs/Cummins exhaust brake, got it for a great price off of ebay. The actuator is an air cylinder controlled by pressure so it means I will need to add a compressor to the list of stuff for the truck I don't really know what it's off of but it seems to be the right size for what I want to do. It is a orifice brake but I will be plugging the orifice and using a waste gate to control back pressure and braking force.





I'll post up as this part gets added. I think it will be really cool to have an exhaust brake to help in the hills where I live.

I keep posting updates. Maybe someone is watching.

Thanx,
Jaysin
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  #138  
Old 09-28-2012, 12:02 AM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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I'm watching, but sadly my knowledge is lacking to make any meaningful comments or suggestions. I'm learning from your build as I'm sure many others are.
Thanks for sharing,

Richard
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  #139  
Old 09-28-2012, 12:50 AM
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So how much pressure?
Can you just use Boost if you are making enough PSI; it should be easy to tap it store it and use it later...
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  #140  
Old 09-28-2012, 12:58 AM
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Cool! You'll want a compressor for OBA anyway.
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