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Old 01-09-2007, 07:01 PM
KeithXtreme's Avatar
KeithXtreme KeithXtreme is offline
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Location: Broken Arrow, OK
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ST2 being built at school

From: "welderman249" <welderman249@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue Jan 13, 2004 7:51 pm
Subject: ST2 being built at school welderman249

Hi everyone.
My students and I are building an ST2 with a Honda Interceptor 500
in it. Just got the motor set in and its going to be tight. It looks
like we are going to have to add a jackshaft in the rear to drop
down to the driven sprocket on the axle. This means that the small
drive sprocket will be behind and above. A mechanic I know said that
it wouldn't be a problem. Do you agree? I guess if I have to we can
stretch the rear a bit so the engine will fit in front of the axle.
We have the chassis done, front suspension mounted, and are
mounting the rear now.

#221 From: David Tafoya <mrstarman57@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed Jan 14, 2004 10:54 am
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school mrstarman57

Those kids have a great teacher to be part of a project like this. I am using a honda engine "photos in Dave's folder" It's out of a CB 650. I had to stretch the back out about 6 inches to make room for the exhaust pipes as well as set up the angle for the chain to fit without using a jackshaft. My suspension is completed. I am finishing up the steering. It's been cold outside so I havn't worked on it in the last week. I think that without stretching the rear, you would lose seat adjustment room to the exhaust pipes.as well as having to use the jackshaft arrangement. I have a seat out of a Toyota p-up that I placed inside the frame to get an idea of the clearance. if you give up even 3 inches for exhaust clearance. It puts a person too close to the steering wheel.
Those of you who have one of these completed, is there a problem with the panel striking the legs on the rebound of a jump? It looks like it might cut your legs if you struck it hard enough.

#222 From: "welderman249" <welderman249@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed Jan 14, 2004 12:58 pm
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school welderman249

I think we are going to try to use a jackshaft. I am hesitant on
stretching the frame. It looks like I would need at least eight more
inches to put the motor forward (v-four engine). Do you think that
there would need to be more support needed for the stretch?
I like your engine better because it doesn't take up as much space.
The idea we have so far, is to make a motor mount that mounts the
jack shaft with it. Basically, it would be a two piece mount(right
and left)that mounted to the axle housing and bolted to the back of
the frame and the motor.
Thanks for your praise. I appreciate it. This is my second year as a
teacher. I was a welder for 14 years and wore out both of my wrists
from work. I can still weld, just not all day long. My range of
motion is also limited. I love showing these guys that they can do
things that they never knew they could.

#223 From: "Randy" <arebuilder@comcast.net>
Date: Thu Jan 15, 2004 12:48 pm
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school areblder

I have a custom built kart (not an ST2) with the same engine you are
using and it is setup with a jack shaft check it out at


#226 From: "welderman249" <welderman249@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu Jan 15, 2004 8:01 pm
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school welderman249

WOW!!! That is one sweet job guy! My hat is off to you. I'm sending
that link to school so I can show my students. Thank you!

#224 From: David Tafoya <mrstarman57@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu Jan 15, 2004 3:53 pm
Subject: Re: Re: ST2 being built at school mrstarman57

I didn't want to stretch the frame at first, because I didnt want to deviate from the plans. But now that I've done it , it's ok. I havn't seen a need to add more support. The support system for the drive axel is really over engineered in my opinion. Welded to the frame it's really rigid back there. But I guess once I run it I will find out.
I've worked around teachers in the school environment, those teachers that captured their students imagination with projects like this were the most successful. Are you going to run the exhaust under the frame and out the back?

#227 From: "welderman249" <welderman249@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu Jan 15, 2004 8:07 pm
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school welderman249

Thanks for you comments again! I appreciate them. My plan is to run
the front 2 pipes around the sides of the engine to the rear and tie
in the rear 2 pipes into those. Then I will end up with a modified 4
into 2 exaust system out the back, but not sticking out much.

#242 From: "welding_student" <naqib1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon Jan 19, 2004 9:55 am
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school welding_student

Hi Mike,

I've attempted to send a similar message on friday, but it did not
show up on this list for some reason.

What is the right way to make wavy welding joints on those ST2 tubes?
I can do a good job with straight joints, but not so good wavy ones --
what's the secret to that? Do you move your hand in a circular
motion while you push forward, or just a rapid back and forth

I use a MIG wire welder (Hobart, Handler 175). Is there an ideal
setting combination for wire speed control vs amperage?

Thanks in advance


#327 From: "welderman249" <welderman249@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:38 am
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school welderman249

Hi Mo,
Sorry to respond so late, I have been very busy lately. Hopefully,
I can answer your questions.
There are two tricks to making nice welds. 1st, joint preparation
is critical. You MUST make those joints fit as tightly as possible.
2nd, PRACTICE with left over pieces (drops) before attempting to
weld the chassis components.
No matter how good you are, there are some very difficult positions
to weld on the chassis. If your joints are tight, try to pulse your
mig in a stringer bead, not a weave. If your mig doesn't have a
pulse function (ours don't either), just try to make beads by
overlapping tacks so they look like a bead just squeeze the trigger,
stop, move a tiny bit, then squeeze the trigger again. Do this all
the way around the weld joint. One great benefit from this is that
the heat affected zone is much less, resulting in less warpage and a
stronger joint.
We used both TIG and MIG on our chassis. We also used a tubing
notcher to cut the copes (fish mouth) shapes to fit tubes. Hope this
helps! I will check the board more often.


#364 From: "welding_student" <naqib1@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri Feb 6, 2004 7:50 pm
Subject: Re: ST2 being built at school welding_student

Thanks Mike for the valuable info, as I learned welding by trial an
error not by going to welding school -- I like to learn new
techniques from experts like you. Are you saying here that the only
way to achieve 'stringer bead' pattern is through current pulsing?
the problem with the alternative technique you mentioned above is
that it becomes harder and harder to control the exposed length of
the wire the more tacks you produce. In my case, I have to stop at
least every two tacks, lift up my hood, cut off the excess wire and
repeat the whole thing over again! I've also noticed that when
welding a 90^ angle (where the tip of the gun is completely pointed
in the middle and as close as possible to the joint), a pulsing
humming like that of a moving train is induced and the pattern of the
weld looks exactly like the desired overlapping beads, just by
pulling the trigger and moving in a straight line! Is that common?

Chopworx Motor Co.
Business# 918.607.3328

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Old 01-22-2007, 01:05 PM
immortal_fabrication's Avatar
immortal_fabrication immortal_fabrication is offline
Junior Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Scotland
Posts: 6

Hi, im a pipe fitter/welder from Scotland and I am currently building a ST2 as well. I have exactly the same problem right now, in that the sprocket on the engine isn't positioned correctly to simply run one chain. After thinking the same as your self and contemplating stretching the chassis, I soon discarded that idea and am going to go with adding a jack shaft. In the end its far less work than stretching the chassis(especially since mine is all done)and thinking of it and trying to picture it, stretching the chassis would throw off the proportions of the buggy.

As for your welding tip, on a piece of scrap try setting the current slightly higher than you would and travel slightly faster than normal but in a back and forth motion. This "skip and step" motion once perfected gives a nice beaded weld.
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