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  #81  
Old 03-26-2008, 06:17 AM
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Beats me, but I'm gunna do everything I can to make it happen! I just need to figure out how to get the 9 inch as narrow as possible for maximum arm and axle length.
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  #82  
Old 03-26-2008, 11:31 AM
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Seen those Dutchman 9" IRS units?

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  #83  
Old 03-26-2008, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teenycar View Post
Beats me, but I'm gunna do everything I can to make it happen! I just need to figure out how to get the 9 inch as narrow as possible for maximum arm and axle length.
Saying the same-thing I said to Jesse at TLT why the 9"?
Use the D44 out of a Ford TTB front. All the work is done on the center chunk, and you just have to fab the cover/mount which you can base off the TTB arm... I can get you basic size numbers later today if you want.
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  #84  
Old 03-27-2008, 12:48 AM
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If you're stuck on the 9 inch... get the early "banjo" housing as they have less "slope" to the housing going down to the tubes, then you can get it good and narrow. Or see if Spydertrax or the like will build you just a centerchunk with like 2" tubes on it.
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  #85  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:21 PM
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Dana 44 R&P is weaker. The 9 inch has an all steel housing so it's a sinch to weld it solidly to the chassi. There's far more upgrades and gear choices for the 9 inch as well. The flipped 9" has a higher pinion. I have a third member that I have already built a pinion oiler for. i have a banjo housing already. The difficulty is figuring out how to get it as narrow as possible using a yoke style micro axle that slips in and out at the diff? Ideas appreciated.

Last edited by teenycar; 03-27-2008 at 04:29 PM.
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  #86  
Old 03-27-2008, 05:18 PM
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What kind of drive flanges are you wanting to run?
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  #87  
Old 03-27-2008, 09:44 PM
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I don't really care.
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  #88  
Old 03-27-2008, 10:03 PM
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Ian from Xtreme Ian from Xtreme is offline
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Hey Teeny,

The guys at Autumn Woods racing run a set up similar to what you are talking about. I tried to find some build pics on their site but could not.

They have one truck with the 44 center front, and one with the 9"

http://www.autumnwoodsracing.com/Index-Flash.htm

It is pretty much exactly what you are talking about building.
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  #89  
Old 03-27-2008, 11:12 PM
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Coolest thing I've seen in a while !
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  #90  
Old 03-28-2008, 03:54 AM
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Thanks Ian, I'll give them a ring. My other thought is to have some micro stubs made that would look just like a standard rear 9 inch axle in 33 spline diameter. I would then use 1410 u-joint flanges to bolt to the micro stub flange and have plunging half shafts that would look like the high angle driveline shafts. I don't think it would be a big deal to do but I'm a bit stumped on how to go from a 1410 u-joint flange to the outter stub at the wheel hub. I need to look at a 1 ton chevy IFS 4wd hub and see how the CV bolts or is connected to the micro stub. I think I'll do inboard brakes to keep the unsprung weight down as well. I would imagine a 1410 joint would be strong than the chromo dana 44 joints I have been running and be a lot cheaper too. Anyone have ideas on what vehicles had 1410 u-joint flanges?
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  #91  
Old 03-28-2008, 08:39 AM
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I remember back a few years ago one of the offroad mags did an article on a new race truck from I think Walker Evans that had an independant front and rear. Had sick wheel travel and turning radius. Might take a look through a couple of the archives. The only other thing i remember is that they said a regular floor jack wouldn't even pick the tires off the ground, too much droop.
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  #92  
Old 03-28-2008, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teenycar View Post
Dana 44 R&P is weaker. The 9 inch has an all steel housing so it's a sinch to weld it solidly to the chassi. There's far more upgrades and gear choices for the 9 inch as well. The flipped 9" has a higher pinion. I have a third member that I have already built a pinion oiler for. i have a banjo housing already. The difficulty is figuring out how to get it as narrow as possible using a yoke style micro axle that slips in and out at the diff? Ideas appreciated.
Well, (not unexpectedly) you have covered all the base problems with the 9" as a front diff. Except the efficiencies of the 9-inch, which we all ignore anyway. Running on the coast? I've seen to many broken 3rd's to run a 9-inch on the coast and anything that approaches power.

I do not understand (I don't have to) the want/need to put the plunge in the diff/side gears.
If you analyze the motion of the plunge it occurs between the DOJ and the (what should be) CV. Trying to transfer it into the diff into non fixed gear-splines is just (as I see it) wrong. Put the plunge into a splined joint in the shaft between the joints where (IMNSHO) it belongs...

About the only thing I can contribute is to join the chorus and point out that while in a rockcrawler, Steering Geometry can be (IS) ignored. At speed you can not ignore the Geometry. Since you are building it be sure to get the camber curves and the ackerman right.

Ok, I'll shut up and watch.
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  #93  
Old 03-28-2008, 12:28 PM
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don't all trucks with a 14B have 1410 flanges?
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  #94  
Old 03-28-2008, 09:59 PM
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If the third member is flipped upside down does it still run on the coast side.

I'm not worried about. I do feel your pain on the plunge at the diff and am working on figuring something for plunging half shafts. And yes it will have camber but I'm not going to be dogmatic about how it counteracts body roll or keeps you off your sidewalls, which is total BS. The steering will of course be addressed to get rid of bumpsteer but since i'll be running full hydro I'm also not going to be super anal about it. This will be a practice car for the rear desert "go fast" car so I'll get it as good as I can but with being 4wd somethings will naturally have to be sacrificed for the good of steering and travel.
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  #95  
Old 03-28-2008, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teenycar View Post
If the third member is flipped upside down does it still run on the coast side.
No it don't oil but you addressed that
It is still something like 35% less efficient then most other designs, LOL!
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  #96  
Old 04-01-2008, 12:47 PM
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You've prolly seen this but just in case...
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/sho...645#post429645
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  #97  
Old 04-01-2008, 02:21 PM
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Dang Man.. Thats Awesome. I Love The Long Flowing Arcs Everywhere. That Thing Is Really Going To Stand Out. The Top Reminds Me Of A Snakes Head. Kinda Like The Top Of A Dodge Viper. Maybe You Should Name It The Rock Viper. He He Just Kiddin. Nice Work Though. I Can't Believe You Fit All Those Components In That Little Space With No Interference. How Did You Notch The Tube Ends At Such An Acute Angle? I Love That. Can't Hardly Tell Where The Tubes Unite. They Just Flow Together. Nice Job!
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  #98  
Old 04-08-2008, 03:22 AM
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Built a coulpe adjustable steering columns for my many projects.
The one for the buggy will also telescope forward and backward to accomodate for the sliding seat as well.
Side shot

Backside

Top view

One for the jeep on the right and buggy on the left.


I have about $40 in parts for each one. I still need to make two more for the other projects so I figure I will save about $400 bucks making my own and they are totally bolt on with the half couplers.
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  #99  
Old 04-08-2008, 03:27 AM
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Built a coulpe adjustable steering columns for my many projects.
KEWEL!!

So, how do you clear the pivot bolt with the shaft joint???
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  #100  
Old 04-08-2008, 05:40 PM
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Nice work ....I like those locking pins, where did you find them?
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