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  #21  
Old 01-03-2012, 04:19 PM
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Hey Steve - no I'm not using struts but rather RX7 front hubs with double wishbones I'll fabricate. I wasn't looking to copy motorbike suspension, just noticing that a vehicle as common as that has a front wheel that moves back as it moves up... just the motion of the wheel, that's all.

My not planning on having the inner wishbone pivot points parallel to the ground has caused quite a stir here among my Aussie mates perhaps too used to Clubman and open wheeler setups. I had to put up that pic previously of the buggy I'm copying the front end off to calm them down a bit.

Last edited by Redliner; 01-03-2012 at 04:23 PM.
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2012, 01:09 AM
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Look What Turned Up Today
My son James picked up these Mazda RX7 series 8 front hubs and brakes in Sydney and dropped them off. They are HUGE, with FOUR pot calipers. Tons of grip here, and you can see how readily the hubs will bolt into the double wishbones Iíll make. Nice and short too, being only 20cm high from the top to bottom joint. This measurement determines the distance between the inner mounting points for both upper and lower wishbones on the front chassis, so I am well pleased.



These were in a front mounted steering rack like my design, and if you compare the angles of the steering arms on my previous pic of the Magna hubs to these the difference is obvious, as is that I will have no reverse Ackerman using these babies.

My 12 1/2 inch steering wheel also turned up - just $35 on E-bay. I think we can thank compulsory airbags in road cars for this price plummet.

Last edited by Redliner; 01-09-2012 at 10:20 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-07-2012, 06:14 AM
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Positioning the front hubs
On the second last day of my annual leave I unbolted the four pot calipers and discs off the Mazda RX7 hubs. This made them a lot lighter and easier to handle, and with coach screws I was able to screw them to the construction floor on the wheel base line.

Holding them in place this way is going to make measuring up for the pilot wishbones a lot easier.

Iíd bent the front lower half of the bullbar thatíll also hold the first piece of the front floor, so I cut the skid plate for it out of 3mm sheet which will be welded to it.
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  #24  
Old 01-07-2012, 11:21 AM
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Spindles are upside down.
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  #25  
Old 01-07-2012, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullnerd View Post
spindles are upside down.
& l<>r
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When did empirical knowledge get replaced by a theoretical education?

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  #26  
Old 01-07-2012, 04:47 PM
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Thanks guys. My son woulda probably spotted that - but you just saved me a lotta unnecessary work!
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  #27  
Old 01-07-2012, 06:42 PM
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How will it effect the steering geometry by flipping them over and moving to opposite sides? Reason is I see your marks on the board where I think it's for the steering rod end? I may be wrong but once you move them that puts the cast steering arm a lot further toward the rear and a lot lower for the TRE to connect. About 2 1/2 squares back from where the TRE is now if you keep the same wheel base.
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  #28  
Old 01-07-2012, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rookieshooter View Post
How will it effect the steering geometry by flipping them over and moving to opposite sides? Reason is I see your marks on the board where I think it's for the steering rod end? I may be wrong but once you move them that puts the cast steering arm a lot further toward the rear and a lot lower for the TRE to connect. About 2 1/2 squares back from where the TRE is now if you keep the same wheel base.
I'm not gonna fit the hubs the way I've put them in the pic as it's just been pointed out to me I had them round the wrong way and upside down. Dddooohhhh!
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2012, 04:44 AM
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The hubs DO look better the right way up!



Drilling out the seat front cross member

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  #30  
Old 01-09-2012, 06:02 AM
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Really is an interesting build, great ideas you have. Do you think once it's done we can see some video of your build in action? Love to see it. I'm a fan of all kinds of racing.

How about a link to that kind of racing that you do?

Last edited by rookieshooter; 01-09-2012 at 06:11 AM.
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  #31  
Old 01-09-2012, 06:25 AM
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If you check out my racing builds at my "WJP004" You Tube channel
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...63l0.1.1.3l5l0
I think the likelyhood of your request being answered will be obvious. plus you'll see the sort of special stage dirt racing and other basic club motorsport we do here in Oz. Thanks for your encouragement and interest. These are not one shot boring home vids, so crank up the volume!!!

Last edited by Redliner; 01-09-2012 at 06:30 AM.
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  #32  
Old 01-10-2012, 02:26 AM
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I saved a runner out of the Magna so I could easily adjust the seat in Raptor, and you can see where Tig-son welded in the cross member I made, after which I gave it a coat of rust proof paint.

You can see how this seat mounts in position, and Iíll make a carbon fibre version this weekend or the next.

I also lightened and painted the gearshift mechanism.
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  #33  
Old 01-15-2012, 05:59 AM
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Time to make myself a copy of this seat I made a fibreglass mould of a few years ago. Itíll be my first attempt at carbon fibre.

Not too difficult a material to work with. Has itís own peculiarities, but easier and nowhere near as much mess as fibreglass. But itís strong. When I came back after lunch to trim the job itíd glued itself to my makeshift table and really didnít wanna part with it! Iíll leave it overnight to gain maximum strength, and flip it out of the mould tomorrow.
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  #34  
Old 01-19-2012, 03:31 AM
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Hereís the finished product next to a fibreglass one I made a while ago. The results speak for themselves!
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  #35  
Old 01-19-2012, 11:31 AM
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That's impressive weight savings. Tips on making your mold?

Richard
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  #36  
Old 01-19-2012, 06:12 PM
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[quote=alwaysFlOoReD;117077] Tips on making your mold?

RiCHARD, here's a video I made showing how to make a fibreglass mould of a car panel, and the same processes apply to making a mould for a seat at home. I am literally uploading a second tutorial to my WJP004 channel as I write this, which shows me making a fibreglass mould of a fairly basic racing car seat timber form, and then this actual carbon fibre seat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwL0T47Qjs8
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  #37  
Old 01-19-2012, 07:14 PM
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After I posted I thought to check your videos.
Thanks for being patient,

Richard
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  #38  
Old 01-20-2012, 03:22 AM
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Here's my latest You Tube film showing this seat being made with techniques that can be used in any garage http://youtu.be/U13Bb4rTGPs
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  #39  
Old 01-23-2012, 12:30 PM
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I watched both of your videos, and the other 18. That is an amazing build on the j-series civic. Those are just now starting to get popular in the USA. I was wondering if there is a good way to make the body panels without ruining the first one. As in attaching a scope, then building the mold then removing the scope, or if you have to sacrifice the original.
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  #40  
Old 01-23-2012, 09:20 PM
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Thanks Raley. Gald you found the films interesting. Usually the first panel IS sacrificed because of what's done to it in scuplting the new shapes onto it, and then in taking a fibreglass mould off it. Although I prefer to make a mould of the entire modified panel, there are 1 or 2 ways to mould an add on without destroying the original - say if it was a roof or a panel welded into the car.
But I don't know what you mean by a "scope".
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