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  #1  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:17 PM
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New here...new toy exo project

So I'm new here, bought bend tech pro from Chris and he told me about this site. I'm fairly new to fabbing. I bought the box and had to extend it and make a tailgate for it, made my sliders and had a buddy bend the hoops for em.



And just finished making this bumper that was the last piece I needed to start my exo. A few things left like d-rings and plate for the top of the bumper and capping the ends and it'll be done and ready for the exo.



I've been playing with bend tech pro and have a few questions for you pros:

When I'm making an exo...should I do it as an assembly starting with the main hoop...tacking it in then measuring for my next part..add that to the assembly...make, tack etc etc? Or do you do the whole thing....I just find it hard/unrealistic to make all the pickpoints of the exo...it's hard to measure through the cab..tips?

Just with quick measurements this what I'm planning on with a bit more crossbracing.



Joe
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  #2  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:20 PM
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Joe,

Welcome to the site. Glad you found it.

Cris
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2006, 10:05 PM
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Welcome to the site. Either way you have to take the measurment. I find it easier for me to build in assembly as I go. I also use srting to cut the truck in 1/2 and sometimes blue painters tape to use as imaginary lines to see the flow..


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  #4  
Old 11-02-2006, 11:57 PM
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Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. The tape it a great idea. So that makes me feel better... design as you go. Seems a bit more managable that way.

Thanks for the warm welcome.

Joe
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2006, 04:13 PM
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Definitely design as you go. You can design something to death on the computer but sometimes it comes down to exactly how you tack a piece in or how well you measure beforehand. So far on my cage I've found it a lot easier to make sub assemblies using physical measurements so that the next piece I design on the computer is based on the real physical assembly measurements.
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:31 PM
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some ideas for you.



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Old 11-09-2006, 05:06 PM
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That should pass on some good idea's!

What with the hump in the cross bar under the windsheild?
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Old 11-09-2006, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smashmetal
What with the hump in the cross bar under the windsheild?
EVERY toy exo i had ever seen had the cowl bar raised up stupid high to clear the pass. wiper. They look like ass and block a ton of forward visability. When i started laying the exo i ran into the same problem. the hump is my solution. You cant even see the cowl bar now as its below the dash line when viewd from the drivers seat.

that was one of the first cages i did with the bender. it was a nightmare. there is no point in the entire thing that is more than 1/2" off the body. it has 53 bends in it, and is fully welded. I lost my ass when i bid it. he was giddy as a mo-fo though.
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2006, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $CEEP
. I lost my ass when i bid it. he was giddy as a mo-fo though.
'Aint that always the way ?
You either build to a standard or to a price.
I take my hat off to you for building to a standard and sucking up the price.
You'll never make a business man though !
(do i ever know that feeling......)
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2006, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for the post I saw that already when I searched for toy stuff as soon as i registered here.

So since I have some pros here I'm running into some problems. Bending stuff is fine, the program is great...it's when it comes to notching and printouts that I'm getting screwed. I've bent the pieces in the screen shots but it's doing weird things.

This is the assembly that's been turned so you can see it. These are the hoops that go ontop of my bumper.



This is a selection for a cut on the driver's side....deffinitely not correct.



This is of the passenger's side....better but still doesn't work I tried it on a piece of scrap and it didn't fit...huge gap etc etc.



I also tried notching it with my drill press and vice....not a chance in hell. Super ghetto and have no idea how to get the right notch.

Also on the printouts it says line up with outer radius.....what outer radius. I had to kind of eyball where to set it up on the tube.

So far the program has been usefull for bends...but really everything I've done so far could be done on bend teck EZ. Can anyone help me?

Some tips on notching would help a bunch...with or without the program..or some links. I'm off to class now and was hoping to get alot done tomorrow but can't untill I figure out how to notch.

Thanks, Joe
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2006, 11:02 PM
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hey miller, looks great! I see what I think is your problem. You need to check both sides of the tube your mating to. If your close to a bend, check the bend first then the side it favors after. Remember to check all tubes and sides of tubes at the junction, if the whole tube is not RED then it will not figure properly.

The outside radius its telling you is the bend on the part your notching. If there is no bend on the part being notched it will say no line up, but you just line up the blue lines.

Last edited by ScooteK; 11-10-2006 at 12:36 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2006, 12:22 AM
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Thanks...I guess my side bars that connect to the main hoop are on the bend. By eye it looks like it's just at the end. I guess I'll have to rebend them and make the bars higher so they're not on the bend. It's these little things that I can't figure out and don't see any mention of them in the manual. Maybe I should read harder lol.

When I click...it doesn't matter where the hole tube never red....is that because it's on a bend?

Joe

Last edited by miller; 11-10-2006 at 12:26 AM.
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  #13  
Old 11-10-2006, 12:26 AM
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I have 2 things in the latest release you need to help you out.

1) notch to a bend now. (have a couple of minor bugs, however, it won't stop you from making a good part).

2) software now checks both sides of your material.

Send me an email with your name or serial number and I will get you the latest download patch.

Cris
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  #14  
Old 11-10-2006, 12:56 AM
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Thanks Chris, email sent...hopefully I'll get a lot more done tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.

Joe
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  #15  
Old 11-10-2006, 01:06 AM
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email returned and it should be on its way.
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Bend-Tech Dragon web site:
http://www.BendTechDragon.com

Cris Merry
Phone: 651-257-8715
Cris@bend-tech.com

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  #16  
Old 11-10-2006, 01:56 AM
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If you have to, make two cutting wrappers - one for cutting against the straight tube section and one for cutting against the radius section. Then attach both wrappers to the tube and cut the result. It looks like the wrappers in your screen shot are based on the straight section and don't take into account the radius section.
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  #17  
Old 11-10-2006, 09:17 PM
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You may have this worked out already Cris but here are the cutouts for both sides. It was the side with the spikes on the cutout that worked....I had to flip it upside down and use it for the other side because the cutout was wrong.....but it worked.

This one worked


This one didn't


Thanks a ton for getting that update to me...bandit I guess that would have worked too.













It's hard to see but theres about half an inch between the cab top.


I've wasted about 4 feet of tube and that was because I made the side hoops of the bumper freehand. I wanted to try to figure it out without the soft ware...and for one of them I put the tube in the wrong way and started the bend on the wrong side. Pretty good though for a total noob....thank you Bend tech pro! It just paid for itself today in saved tube I bet. First shot at the main hoop was good...and to tweak it a bit but I'm happy.
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2006, 09:46 PM
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And got some more done today.







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  #19  
Old 11-19-2006, 09:39 PM
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Done..also put in dual cases. Pictures aren't great cause I had to have the flash off to be able to see anything.









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  #20  
Old 11-19-2006, 10:18 PM
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Wow nice work and incredibly fast! Can you take a picture from inside the cab to how how much the cowl bar affects visibility?
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