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  #141  
Old 04-27-2016, 03:47 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is online now
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If the hole is blind, find a similar diameter rod/bolt that will fit in the bearing (or use the original shaft), pack the hole with grease, then hammer the rod into the hole to compress the grease. The grease will act as a hydraulic fluid to push the bearing out from the back side. I have used that trick to remove stubborn pilot bearings and it's surprisingly effective!

Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OScJ2QKpV_k
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  #142  
Old 04-28-2016, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
If the hole is blind, find a similar diameter rod/bolt that will fit in the bearing (or use the original shaft), pack the hole with grease, then hammer the rod into the hole to compress the grease. The grease will act as a hydraulic fluid to push the bearing out from the back side. I have used that trick to remove stubborn pilot bearings and it's surprisingly effective!

Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OScJ2QKpV_k
Yep. We used to recommend this trick on the tech hotline when I worked at a clutch manufacturer. The grease will make a mess, but cleanup is faster than other methods of getting a pilot bearing/bushing out.
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  #143  
Old 04-29-2016, 09:29 AM
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It worked! Of course it was a 10mm ID bearing so I didnt have a piece of stock just lying around. I ended up cutting the head off of a 10mm bolt and then wrapped aluminum tape around one time to make up the difference, mostly. It probably took 5 "re-greasings" to finally get all the way out, but its out.



Dan
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  #144  
Old 04-29-2016, 10:59 AM
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The power of the OFN.
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  #145  
Old 04-29-2016, 12:57 PM
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I've whittled a tree branch to do the same on old chev motors back in the day. It worked...
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  #146  
Old 04-29-2016, 09:40 PM
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I've whittled a tree branch to do the same on old chev motors back in the day. It worked...
Awesome!


Picked up some parts I forgot at the coater today. And dropped off a bunch more which should be ready next week.



Im a bit skeptical of the e-coat holding up to fuel, even though he claimed it would be good. Im going to soak the small piece in a cup of fuel and see what happens over the next couple weeks.





I also lined up some fuel safe epoxy that Im going to use to seal wires through the hole where the connector once was in the flange of the sending unit.

Dan
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  #147  
Old 05-06-2016, 10:56 PM
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I seem to be waiting for parts for several different projects so last night I decided to mess around with the motor mounts, and the lower radiator hard line I made years back but never finished grinding smooth.

Rad hard line made from SS weld els. I put a few little tacks around the lip in place of a bead. I think it should work well enough





Had to grind the inside a bit as I didnt have (and still dont) a back purge setup. Someday.




Ground all of the stamping marks off the edges of the front motor mount, and smoothed the factory welds a little.




Welded up and smoothed the unneeded holes in the top of the trans mount.




I didnt like the two little V notches in the master cylinder brace so I welded them up and ground them smooth as well.

Orig (ok the orig pic sucks, but its all I have. see the two tiiiny little V's i the middle of the bracket? ya, those)


Much better


Dan
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  #148  
Old 05-10-2016, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
Had to grind the inside a bit as I didnt have (and still dont) a back purge setup. Someday.
I picked up a Smith's dual outlet regulator/flow meter off Ebay a number of years ago. It was used, but offered for sale by a Smith dealer that had rebuilt it. Might be worth a look. It was much cheaper than picking up a second Argon cylinder and flow meter.
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  #149  
Old 05-10-2016, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
I picked up a Smith's dual outlet regulator/flow meter off Ebay a number of years ago. It was used, but offered for sale by a Smith dealer that had rebuilt it. Might be worth a look. It was much cheaper than picking up a second Argon cylinder and flow meter.
I did something similar but just used heavy brass tee and a el cheapo $40 pressure regulator plumbed into the high pressure side. I don't think you need a flow regulator for back purge. I used the clear nylon braided hose with a normal air chuck on the end with a ball valve. The idea was I could easily adapt to it as needed. Never used it that way just used a 18" whip hose.

You might spend $100 on the whole deal hose and all.
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  #150  
Old 05-10-2016, 10:07 AM
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If I remember correctly, I was into my setup about $100. Maybe a little more, but not much.

I just screwed a barb into the second outlet, and used 1/4" rubber hose from there. Thinking back on it, I should probably include a small ball valve so I can shut it off without messing with the flow setting. I was setting it to a low flow number relative to what I run on the torch...maybe 5 CFH, if that...it's been a long time since I messed with it.
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  #151  
Old 05-10-2016, 10:30 AM
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Right on, that sounds like a pretty sweet deal. I had accumulated a bunch of regulators and the one I used was the kind that comes with a 110v mig, normal pressure/spring regulator. The ball valve at the end of the hose was accidental but ended up working out awesome for stopping starting the flow. I was worried more about the regulator creeping and leaking my Argon while I wasn't using that regulator.
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  #152  
Old 05-13-2016, 10:27 AM
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Ill definitely have to start putting something together, esp if I can do it for around $100 (ish). Its something I should have done long ago.

-----------------

Ive been busy doing other vehicle maintenance, and mowing, so not a lot of progress lately. Im still waiting on my last batch of parts from the coater as well.

I did, however, finally get the U piece bent for the subframe. Will allow plenty of access for the surge tank. If youll notice I also previously removed the rear cross bar. It just didnt allow enough room to get the gas tank in or out. I may move it to the front, still undecided.





Dan
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  #153  
Old 05-13-2016, 10:29 AM
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Whoops. Double post.

Dan

Last edited by juicedz4; 05-13-2016 at 11:36 AM.
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  #154  
Old 05-13-2016, 03:46 PM
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Just checked Ebay for you. Here's a brand new one for $109.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-HTP-Arg...8AAOSwGotWq9Xw
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  #155  
Old 05-13-2016, 06:46 PM
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Perfect, thanks! I bookmarked it. Maybe Ill snag on in a week or two.

Dan
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  #156  
Old 06-03-2016, 03:26 PM
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Nothing much to report unfortunately, Ive been swamped with other nonsense.


I picked up a pile of parts from the coaters a week or three ago.

Last night I managed to get the rack back together.







I also ordered a bunch of parts so I can finish up the surge tank fabrication. Most are due today.

Dan
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  #157  
Old 06-10-2016, 09:26 AM
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Decided to say F it and go forward with one Girling and one Lucas front caliper for now.

Spent about an hour last night sanding off the visible casting lines on all 4 calipers and hangers. I just need to pop the pistons out of the fronts and they will all be ready for powder.







Dan
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  #158  
Old 06-10-2016, 11:25 AM
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I assume piston diameters are the same? If so, who cares if they don't match exactly.
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  #159  
Old 06-10-2016, 02:38 PM
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Same piston diameters. Also Girling and Lucas (from what I understand) are basically the same company.

My OCD thing is just annoyed they arent exactly the same. I literally bought 6 different calipers from several places trying to get a match, no dice.

A Corrado buddy of mine is searching his horde for a mate, so I may get lucky before I actually need to mount them.

Dan
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  #160  
Old 06-13-2016, 09:41 AM
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-Cleaned up a bunch more parts this weekend and put them on the "done" shelf, which is getting quite full. Mainly just dirty OEM parts that Im reusing.

-Welded up a dent in the charge piping, and buffed out all the mandrel tooling marks in prep for powder.

-Worked a little more on the floor mods to allow clearance for the surge tank and piping. Pics tomorrow.


-Repaired a broken tail light. Also razor bladed scraped then wet sanded the words off of them. Im going to be attempting to get the amber to look red using some translucent candy grape paint, then a light tint and good clear to finish them off.






-Painted the IC black. Several coats on the tanks, just a few light coats on the core itself.




Yesterday my daughter and I finally started working on the VW pedal car we picked up a couple years ago. She did most of the work documenting and disassembling it. The plan is to paint it to match the cabby at some point. Ill be dropping off the frame parts to powder tomorrow. The body is going to need quite a bit of work. And we may have to either source or custom make a windshield and turn signals, else attempt to fill the holes.





Dan
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