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  #241  
Old 03-16-2017, 01:06 PM
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ranger88den ranger88den is offline
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Thank you Dan. I will do a search to see if it's available in my area.
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  #242  
Old 03-16-2017, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger88den View Post
Thank you Dan. I will do a search to see if it's available in my area.
Unlikely.

I order it from here http://shop.masterseriesct.com/

Chuck is an awesome guy and will answer any questions you have about it. He not only sells it but has been using it in VW restorations for years.

If I recall shipping isnt too bad, <$10 on a quart. If you plan to spray it, and dont have urethane reducer, he sells a quart of it for $15 or $20.

Dan
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  #243  
Old 03-16-2017, 01:47 PM
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Thanks for the tip.
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  #244  
Old 03-17-2017, 11:47 AM
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Cleaned up the black beach in the booth yesterday afternoon and got the shell back on the lift.

Rolled the motor out and started bolting stuff on. I had to look back at image dates, but I made this intake and exhaust mani back in mid to late 2009, ugh.

Anyway, I sorted a ton of parts, and tried to make sense of exactly what my plan was on some things back then. I think I have a good idea, at least in my head, what needs to be cleaned up, modified, finished etc. It seems like nearly all of the custom parts on this damn motor are 85% done. sigh.











Dan
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  #245  
Old 03-20-2017, 12:36 PM
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Spent some time on plumbing this weekend.

Finished up the fuel lines (save for the supply and return to the OE tank, since I need to source the hose still.





The hard lines are a sob to get in with the subframe installed. Apparently I always removed it when I was working on them, whoops. Cant do that now. A little enlarging of the hole thru the chassis made it work, plus it allowed the gravel guard to fit through the hole, which I wanted anyway.








With that done I decided to work on the brake lines. I was originally going to mount the bias on the inside of the firewall or the floor, but I didnt like any of those locations so I decided to put it right on the side of the pedal box. I think it worked out well. I obv still need to flare the lines but a friend is borrowing my tool right now. I should have it back tomorrow and can finish up later this week. Im using 3/16 nicopp which is a dream to work with since you can easily bend it by hand. I still need to add some more mounts, a few of which I may make special to hold all 3 lines with one fastener. The front lines run through the frame rails and come out about 3" from the oe frame tab mounts, I think I showed this before. Those I will need to bend and flare once the lines are installed for good.












Dan
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  #246  
Old 03-20-2017, 03:33 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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The Tidy Turbo Cabriolet. Clean lines. Purposeful parts. Bravo.
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  #247  
Old 03-22-2017, 10:19 AM
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Ha, thanks!

Finished trimming and flaring the 3 output lines last night. I also played around with some zip ties, which hold them together surprisingly well. I still need to come up with at least one mount for the firewall.





Then it was time to tackle the input lines. Im not really happy with how these turned out. 1. the bulkheads are just so damn tall and 2. id like a little more clearance to the steering shaft (yes, I could bend them away more). So I ordered some electroless nickel plated 90 deg bulkheads this am. Ill need to have the engine bay side flange redone to accommodate the nuts and then hope like hell one out of the 6 choices allows the 90 to be keyed correctly inside (I can also shim them some if necessary).

Note: yes, one of the bulkhead fittings i had to substitute with a bolt as I left one at work.









Dan
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  #248  
Old 03-27-2017, 01:22 PM
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Wasnt digging the dumb bends on the input lines at the firewall so I picked up some nickel plated bulkhead 90s. It turned out SO much better.







With that done, I whipped up the rear crossover line and bracket. Im still deciding on what to use for clamps, hence its just floating right now.
There will be no hard line on the drivers side, the braided line from the caliper will just extend right to the tee.







And hose routing on the pass side around the surge tank and thru the axle beam





Finally, I was able to work out routing of the ebrake cables without getting crazy and completely re-routing them. I just need the next size longer, 1800mm vs 1730mm. They are on order. I had to do a small notch in the fuel filter bracket (still needs a tiny bit more clearance) and massaged the corner of the gas tank a bit to add a small channel.









Dan
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  #249  
Old 03-29-2017, 10:27 AM
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Test fit a wheel last night to both verify my axle spacer measurements were right and also to see how much wheel clearance I had for the axle beam brace "towers".

Perfect fit, and no rubbing. I know very un-vw.





With that I welded up these little towers. I happened to have the rod ends and bar "in stock", leftovers from cavy projects I guess.



Trying to decide where to mount them. I really like them over the shock mount, but then they could get filled up with water and whatever. Im thinking a drain hole might be good enough to keep water from washes drained. Also unsure if the swaybar mount "lollipop" bolt is long enough to go through the extra metal.

I dont know how I took this to be powder coated years ago with the condition of the pass side shock mount area. Its pretty hammerd (literally). At least I can address that now as well since its going to need to be re-coated.







Dan
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  #250  
Old 04-03-2017, 10:16 AM
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Was never a huge fan of the rear bumper cover or the huge tow hooks. The bumper flap in had a big crack right in the middle, so I decided to do a little trimming. At some point I may come up with a simple diffuser but for now just having that middle flap cut out and the tow hooks gone is a huge improvement.









So long ugly ass tow hooks



I think it will be pretty business looking once the bracing is in.






Next was time to fix the pass side shock mount area on the beam. How I ever took this to powder 6 years ago Ill never know. It was very bent up and beat to hell. Must be someone couldnt get the shock out at one time. A little beating with a BFH, welding, grinding, and redrilling and its pretty close to normal.










Also got the second brace tower welded up. Decided not to mount them over the shock hole. To keep them from filling up with water I welded up the oe hole in the beam, then tacked the towers on





Autotech swaybar and longer tie rods will be here by thursday so I can finish up this beam and get everything back to powder sat am.

Dan
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  #251  
Old 04-17-2017, 10:26 AM
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Fabbed up the inner axle beam bracing mounts last night. Still need to be welded but Im currently out of sheild gas for the TIG. Also dont mind the random wheel studs, it was the only 5/8" bolts I had that were long enough. The fin at the bottom double serves as a jack point should I not be near the lift.









Dan
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  #252  
Old 04-17-2017, 04:30 PM
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Is this car still for your wife? Does she drive competitively? Or are you planning to thrash on it some yourself?
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  #253  
Old 04-17-2017, 10:49 PM
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It is for her but I like to make things. Honestly, this latest bracing Im mainly doing b/c it looks cool. It does serve a purpose as well, Ive had several people approach me about making more in fact, but for this is mostly the look.

Dan
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  #254  
Old 04-21-2017, 10:48 AM
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Finished up the beam bracing last night. Welds arent my best, but itll work









Also had to modify the inner swaybar mounts. The OE mounts are supposed to fit the Autotech big swaybar, well mine didnt. They were about 1/4" too short. Its really weird, all of the MK1 VW cars have the same OE part number for this bracket, just different revisions dep on year. Given these are NLA and if I found a used set who knows if theyd fit, I decided just to mod them

First welded a shim to the mounting hole side.


Then cut off the bent end.


Bent / cut up a new peice


Positioned, tacked, and bent around the orig bracket


Ugly welded in place


Ground and sanded to sort of match the OE look


Perfect fit




And the whole smash on the car


Up next I need to get the motor back in then start on the exhaust.

Dan
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  #255  
Old 04-24-2017, 11:10 AM
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CarterKraft CarterKraft is offline
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nice job on that mount, looks OEM.
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  #256  
Old 05-09-2017, 09:05 AM
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Thanks CarterK. Im finding Im not the only one with this issue. Oh well, its behind me now.

Had an hour or two free after work yesterday, decided to get the motor in so i can start on the exhaust. Goes in so much easier from the bottom side. Im planning to make some sort of dolley that holds it in just the right position so itll go in effortlessly when everything is painted and finished. Basically just lower the car onto it, no hoist required.







Dan
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  #257  
Old 05-10-2017, 09:44 AM
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Fit a few things last night so hopefully I catch anything stupid that Ive long since forgotten in the last 8 years or whatever.

Im currently struggling with my original oil cooler mount, not sure whats going to happen there yet. I hate the mustang throttle body. And the top radiator mounts suck.

Reuger front lip













Dan
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  #258  
Old 05-15-2017, 09:39 AM
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Was able to use my top radiator mounts. Just took a little mod of the radiator to get them to fit.



With that done it was time to redo the top radiator shroud that I screwed up a few years ago. I had a couple hours friday night so I knocked it out. It was my first time forming something like this. I think it turned out pretty good.











Also started on Rev 2 of the oil cooler mount. Must happier with this one so far. I just need to redo the lower support / rock guard. Though I may add some sides to create a duct for it. we'll see.



Dan
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  #259  
Old 05-24-2017, 10:05 AM
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Years ago I started on an oil cooler mount, but since then decided I hated it. I mulled over lots of other ideas, but decided to just make a better version of the original. Im not going to bother showing the original, mostly b/c im too lazy to look it up. Here is the latest.

Bent up a new upper bracket out of 0.090 alum.



Made a rock guard frame / lower mount out of 3/16 ss rod and some 1/4-20 cap screws.



Welded some ss mesh to the frame for the rock guard. Here it is in place.



Then I thought it should have a scoop and some ducting. So I bent up a few more pieces and welded them up. Of course I cut one angle wrong, so I did an ugly weld on the edge and reshaped it to the right angle. Saved!







Here is the completed duct / scoop assy. The scoop and sides are 0.090 and the long flat curved piece is 0.040. Was fun welding them together.





And on the car, without the rock guard.









And with the rock guard





Just need to trim some of the threaded studs, come up with the final hardware, and get it coated.

Dan
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  #260  
Old 06-02-2017, 09:59 AM
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In this week's installment of unnecessary projects that probably no one will ever notice:

I was unhappy with the bung welds for the turbo water lines. And there was a dent in the one OE water tube that Im reusing. So I broke out the silicon bronze and took care of both. These are now ready for coating, likely black wrinkle powder.





Next up is the starter. I saw someone on IG flip the starter to move the ugly solenoid to the bottom and just knew I had to do the same. I did a quick test a few weeks ago with an old broken oem starter, and it didnt look like it would be too bad. A little cut here and a few welds there and itd fit. New starter came yesterday so I quickly got to work.

Pulled apart



I skip a couple steps here, but basically I cut off the tab on the left right through the middle of the oe mounting hole. The hole to the far left is for some other bracket, but Ill be dammed if I can recall what. Cut out a chunk of 5/8" thick aluminum and welded it to the side. Also had to weld up half of the OE hole and an area I cut into when getting it into shape (the little area I bridged in the third pic here.

Welded







Then spent some time grinding and sanding into shape and drilled out the new mounting hole.









Perfect fit.







Going to check flatness of the new flange area on the mill quick, and then bead blast it so itll be ready for paint when the time comes.

Dan
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