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  #1  
Old 05-05-2009, 10:48 PM
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CAPTAIN CNC CAPTAIN CNC is offline
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85 Toyota

Well......Here she is. Try not to laugh. I know it looks bad but i got alot to work with. Forgot to mention the fenders and doors. He threw in a bed liner too it's just got a buncha trash under it right now. Now i just gotta get all the mouse houses out of it and pull that motor. I gotta admit, lookin at this other motor on the floor i feel like i don't know what i got myself into. Ow well, I've got the OFN backin me up. I'm sure I'll get er goin. I'm gonna need yalls help to get thru this though.







Last edited by traxman25; 05-08-2009 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:29 AM
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tbd85hilux tbd85hilux is offline
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Why are you pulling the engine? What are your intended uses for this? Below are a few vendor's that will give you more then enough ideas on where you can go with this.

www.budbuilt.com
www.inchwormgear.com
www.trail-gear.com
www.allprooffroad.com
www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com
www.ironpigoffroad.com
www.cornfedsuspension.com
www.urdusa.com
www.longfieldsuperaxles.com
www.ring-pinion.com
www.diamondaxle.com
www.lcengineering.com

There is one more that I know about that I left out though. Myself and several others have had a lot of problems when dealing with Marlin Crawler. I won't flame him but I won't use him again either. They don't have anything there at MC that you can't get at another vendor but with better customer service.

Paul G.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:27 AM
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Wow! Thanks dude. I'm pullin the motor cause he said it has a slight knock in the bottom but only at idle. I was gonna put on some new crank bearings and use it as my daily driver, but also play around on the trails here around the house and fishin and stuff.
Thanks again man. I'm sure i'l be callin on your help/advise soon.

Clint
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbd85hilux View Post
For future reference the transfer cases that you have are refered to as "forward Shift". The "top Shift" are the desired ones but I believe several companies are making a conversion kit for these now. When you start your thread on this let me know. I've been building my Yota for about 8 years now ever so slowly. I'll probably be able to throw more info your way then you really need or want.

Paul G.
I think i see what you mean. The stick for the x-case is actually on the transmission instead of on top of the x-case. Correct?

What do you think about the motor? Anything else i need to look into while i have it out? Can i get to the bottom bearings from underneath by removing the pan? I haven't even had time to look at it yet. Can't wait to get home and start cleanin it out and getting a better look at it.
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CAPTAIN CNC View Post
I think i see what you mean. The stick for the x-case is actually on the transmission instead of on top of the x-case. Correct?
Yup... If you look on the top of your cases themselves you'll see a block off plate with 4 12MM bolts holding it down. That is where the gear shift and shift rails are located at on a top shift case.

Shouldn't be a problem as long as the crank hasn't been damaged. Should be able to just put it on an engine stand flip it and put new bearings in one by one. Just drain the oil before flipping it. Check your #2 and #3 pistons first. The #3 piston bearing doesn't get oiled very well due to it's location but the engines still have a tendancy to go to 250K miles before major over haul if it's maintained. 300K is not unheard of and there's a couple 22r's in the Toyota museum in Washington state that have gone 1Million miles on the original engine.

The biggest killer of 22r engines is the timing chain. Check the wear on the chain before diving too deep in the engine. The guides are made out of plastic and wear out which leaves the chain rubbing metal on metal. This wear will eventually cause the chain to snap. When it snaps all kinds of damage can and will occur.

You will also find 4 main sockets will be used on the truck. You can almost tare the entire truck down with a 12MM, 14MM, 10MM, and 17MM sockets and wrenches. There are a few different sockets that will be needed depending on what your doing like a 54MM for spindle nuts and a 30MM socket for a pinion nut. But it won't be very often that you will use a socket other then the 4 I listed above.

A cheap and easy way to get more flex out of it is to pull the sway bar off completely and the bar that runs from the frame to the top of the axle. With the leafs in the front you won't notice a difference in ride or control but it will flex a lot better. When you get the money together get a different skidplate to replace the factory cross member. This is a notorious hang up spot. I've used 2 different budbuilt skids with a 1" drive train lift with no problems. 1 for a single case then bought another when I went to dual cases.

One last note... looking at the pics... get some PB Blaster and 10 min before you put a wrench to a bolt spray it down... if you don't your going to be snapping a lot of bolts off... Make friends with the PB you'll need it!

Paul G.

Last edited by tbd85hilux; 05-06-2009 at 12:42 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:52 PM
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PB and i are already VERY good friends...I'll do that. Thanks for all the other usefull info too dude.

Whats the top shift kit consist of? I'm a machinist, could i make what i need?
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:55 PM
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Man! I just cleaned out 5 30 gallon trash bags of garbage and leaves and stuff. Found a screwdriver, a set of pliers, a duck call, a Willie Nelson tape, and a chain among all the crapola though. The hood's off and i got it in the garage. Now to pick that motor outta there. Gosh this thing has alot of stuff on it i'm totally unfamiliar with. Guess i'll just dive in head first.
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  #8  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:23 AM
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The top shift kit ussually consists of the 2 shorter shift rods and shift rails as well as the 2 to 4 lock pins to hold it all together and the new shifter. The forward and top shift use a different bolt pattern for the shifter itself. You may be able to machine yours down but I have no experience in that so I won't be any help there. If you are planning on doing a dual case you would only need one set of shifters made. Since you already have the pocket in the transmission you could set up your reduction case to shift with the longer shifter from the forward shift. That would only require cutting one additional hole for the top shift primary case. I would also twin stick the primary at that point too. It gives you so many more options it's great.

Paul G.
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:11 PM
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Just take the willie nelson tape and play the song " On the road again" over an over while your working on it. Its good inspiration to get it finished.
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  #10  
Old 05-07-2009, 11:21 PM
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Hah! ha ha ha ha ha ha haaaaa! Damn... ur attention to detail while reading my thread is astonishing. Astonishingly Hilarious as well. Ha Haaaaa! Funny stuff shaggy.........ahhhhhhh...
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  #11  
Old 05-07-2009, 11:46 PM
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The transfercase and box you have are G52, the case Paul is talking about is off the later model petrols and diesels the W56 don't get to concerned tho its an easy fix to set it up to "top shift", when your ready PM me and I'll send you some pics and directions

I'm just about to do up a Gen I double cab if your keen I can give you a few ideas... I'm going with a 5M motor and dual gearbox's

Cheers Reece
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2009, 01:01 AM
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I stand corrected on the transmission. My bad. Here's some useful informations on configurations for the Toyota trucks and 4Runners up to 1995 when they became they were moved to the Tacoma's platform.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/

I just relized something also. That's not an '86 truck. It has a solid front axle on it. So judging by the body design it's either and 84 or an 85 truck. In 86 Toyota went with a IFS front end. Congratulations... good find.

Paul G.

Last edited by tbd85hilux; 05-08-2009 at 04:02 AM.
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2009, 10:33 AM
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Yup. Sure as hell is. I opened the door before i hopped in the jeep to leave for work this morning. It's an 85. Wonder how i go about changin the name of the thread?

Chris, Can i do that? Or can you?
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  #14  
Old 05-08-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
I just relized something also. That's not an '86 truck. It has a solid front axle on it. So judging by the body design it's either and 84 or an 85 truck. In 86 Toyota went with a IFS front end. Congratulations... good find.
Damm you poor bastards they only did that to the surf models over here (Aussy and NZ) the hilux continued on with the solid front end till I think 97 - 98 when they changed to the new larger shaped body

Cheers Reece
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAPTAIN CNC View Post
Yup. Sure as hell is. I opened the door before i hopped in the jeep to leave for work this morning. It's an 85. Wonder how i go about changin the name of the thread?

Chris, Can i do that? Or can you?
Got er taken care of for you. I also build quite a few parts for yotas. If you need anything give me a ring. If you've got any questions about it you can call me about that too.

I have to say that I deal with Marlin quite a bit. They had some times when the owner of Trail Gear screwed them over that CS sucked from them, but things are a lot different now, at least in my experience. I think you can clean that truck up to be a nice runner. How's the frame doing on rust? The most common place to look on those is right around the rear spring hanger. Just in front of there, on the inside of the frame rail is where they tend to rust out the worst.




Quote:
Originally Posted by De Ranged View Post
Damm you poor bastards they only did that to the surf models over here (Aussy and NZ) the hilux continued on with the solid front end till I think 97 - 98 when they changed to the new larger shaped body

Cheers Reece
Yeah you lucky guys got all the good ones! Some day I'm going to come over with a container and buy a few diesel models.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:23 PM
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Wow! These things sure are easy to work on. You guys weren't kiddin about that. I had this thing outta there in about 2 1/2 hrs and i've never touched one before today. And thats counting the 1/2 hr - 45 mins i spent tryin to get at the damn trans to motor bolt on the top drivers side out. Sheeze that thing is hard to get at. Here are some pics including the tires i'll be swapping off the waggy and my new crank bearings. I hope it goes back in that easy. Gotta find a neighbor with an engine stand for tomorrow now.













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  #17  
Old 05-09-2009, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by traxman25 View Post
How's the frame doing on rust? The most common place to look on those is right around the rear spring hanger. Just in front of there, on the inside of the frame rail is where they tend to rust out the worst.

Yeah you lucky guys got all the good ones! Some day I'm going to come over with a container and buy a few diesel models.
Passenger side behind the gas tank. Collects dirt and moisture. This is where the first signs of rusting out ussually occur.

Good luck on the diesel. I've seen 2 of them in the flesh over here before and I'm always looking for one. Just for something different.

Paul G.
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Old 05-09-2009, 04:28 AM
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I just bought a 88 Toyota 4x4 pick up .

I have found Yota tech to be a goldmine of information also it is a good idea to be on a first name basis with your local Toyota Parts people .

You will find them to be quite addicting you can`t just own one. I now have 2 4Runners and 3 pick ups and more third generation Celicas then I can count.

Good luck
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Old 05-09-2009, 06:26 AM
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It's almost as bad as the Jeep thing. Although I am thinking about getting a new Jeep and trying to find a Samurai to play with also.

Paul G.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:49 AM
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Thanks on getting the thread name changed Traxman.

And Yes! It's as bad as the jeep thing..... What have i started........
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