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Fabrication 101 Everyone has to start somewhere and for some, theOFN might be that somewhere.


Fabrication 101 Everyone has to start somewhere and for some, theOFN might be that somewhere.

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  #41  
Old 02-14-2008, 01:06 PM
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I saw it was an old question, but since no one answered -> I figured, it might help the next guy with a similar question.
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  #42  
Old 02-14-2008, 01:18 PM
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I saw it was an old question, but since no one answered -> I figured, it might help the next guy with a similar question.
No sweat, I just thought it was funny. The guy should have started a new thread for the question anyway.
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  #43  
Old 04-01-2009, 11:14 PM
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Really good info!! I am also new here and am enjoying the amount of info I am learning. My question is related to cutting and or bending plate to make things such as, mounting tabs, brackets and that type of thing. I have used my cutting torch and cut things out but they are not as clean looking as I would like even after using my grinder on them. Is there a better way to make these items?
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  #44  
Old 04-02-2009, 12:30 AM
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Really good info!! I am also new here and am enjoying the amount of info I am learning. My question is related to cutting and or bending plate to make things such as, mounting tabs, brackets and that type of thing. I have used my cutting torch and cut things out but they are not as clean looking as I would like even after using my grinder on them. Is there a better way to make these items?
Your tip must be clean and you must get the pressures and flame adjusted correctly.
Always when you can use a guide of some sort and position yourself so that you can move the torch smoothly through the section you are cutting. Try it once or twice before you light the torch.
Practice, practice, practice...

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  #45  
Old 04-02-2009, 10:37 AM
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one thing that helps when setting gas pressures. after you light the torch, increase the acetylene until the soot disappears, but you know your flow rate is too high if the flame has a gap at the very tip of the torch. it will be a little clear section of gas flow. just back it off until the flame is on the tip again.
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  #46  
Old 04-02-2009, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 39ranger View Post
Really good info!! I am also new here and am enjoying the amount of info I am learning. My question is related to cutting and or bending plate to make things such as, mounting tabs, brackets and that type of thing. I have used my cutting torch and cut things out but they are not as clean looking as I would like even after using my grinder on them. Is there a better way to make these items?
Here's a couple of tips... these work equally well for plasma
Clean your metal rust flakes are harder to melt than steel, same with scale
Next, speed and angle lead with the bottom of the cutting flame tilt it forward slightly, it dosn't need much just a few degrees as for speed, you can measure this by the angle the slag leaves the work. You'll need to practice this next to the edge of the plate so you can see the slag trail you want it angling back a few degrees
Now to help get that nice clean edge... get some strips of 19mm (3/4") MDF wood and clamp them to your work you want them far enough off your line you can rest the side of the tip against them, if you have your speed right all you will do is blacken the wood a bit
For mounting brackets I wouldn't even mark the steel I'd just make a wood patern, just remember to leave a gap so you can start the cut with out setting fire to your pattern

Cheers Reece
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  #47  
Old 04-02-2009, 05:43 PM
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I prefer to use a piece of angle iron rather than mdf.
But a set of rollers gives you more freedom and by setting them up one side lower than the other you can cut a bevel at the same time.
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  #48  
Old 04-02-2009, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san-d-eggo View Post
one thing that helps when setting gas pressures. after you light the torch, increase the acetylene until the soot disappears, but you know your flow rate is too high if the flame has a gap at the very tip of the torch. it will be a little clear section of gas flow. just back it off until the flame is on the tip again.
great torch tips! i have never recieved any type of "training" on torches. i just read articles, books, and tips as much as i can and like stated above...
PRACTICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE!
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  #49  
Old 09-11-2010, 08:43 AM
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Question ferrous cutting circular saw

what should i know about ferrous cutting circular saw and blades before buying it? Is this worth the price? How long these blades last?

Thank you!
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  #50  
Old 09-11-2010, 01:43 PM
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what should i know about ferrous cutting circular saw and blades before buying it? Is this worth the price? How long these blades last?

Thank you!
China blades suck, you get what you pay for. Now after saying that I use them on my cordless saw because they are cheap and its really pretty easy to knock the teeth off if they start chattering.
Do NOT force them to cut, just like anything let the tool do the work.
How long do they last, its relative to what your cutting and how your cutting. They do last, never really spent to much time thinking about it. They are quicker than using a salz all or standard chop saw blade.
Are they worth it. Yea, if you can spend the money on 10" blade for your chop saw. Mandatory, no. My 10" blade wore out and I never did replace, I use my chop saw so rarely, half the time I am using my grinder to cut cr@p.
If I were building a new cage or had a lot of stuff to cut then yea I would get another one.
Hope this helps

Last edited by 2003jeep; 09-11-2010 at 01:53 PM.
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  #51  
Old 09-12-2010, 10:36 AM
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I have a Millwaukee 8" Meatal cutting saw and I use the endurance blades from Millwaukee and I've cut 2 1/2" shims for a plate exchanger with no problem. You just have to make sure you don't jam the teeth into whatever you are cutting. I would recommend one especially if you cut a lot of plate. Jef
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  #52  
Old 09-15-2010, 08:13 PM
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Hi I'm new to this fabrication world and would like to know if any of U guys could tell me how to Identify the types of tubes.

I've always bought them at the same store but one of they guys told me that this was DOM and another told me the tube is HREW. From what I read it seems like this is HREW from the purple stripe of the weld. however i've heard that DOM also has somewhat of a seam.

The seam is only visible in color no difference in thickness or weld residue on either side. I looked at schedule 40 pipe today and that had residue from the weld on the inside.

And also is schedule 40 pipe strong enough? it seems to be very cheap

Schedule 40 1 1/4 ID is 1.66 OD .144 wall is only 1.33 a foot
1 3/4 tube .120 wall of the other type is 2.65 a foot




Last edited by elflacoramirez28; 09-15-2010 at 08:15 PM. Reason: no image showing
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  #53  
Old 09-15-2010, 10:10 PM
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Not DOM.
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  #54  
Old 09-16-2010, 12:08 AM
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Ok can anyone provide me with a picture of DOM tubing up close so its easier to identify?
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  #55  
Old 09-16-2010, 12:11 AM
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Easy, it will look about the same only without the weld showing, sometimes you can't see it at all...
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  #56  
Old 09-16-2010, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elflacoramirez28 View Post
Ok can anyone provide me with a picture of DOM tubing up close so its easier to identify?
your best bet is to go to a real steel supplier and have a look see for yourself..

Cheer'z

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  #57  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:07 AM
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your best bet is to go to a real steel supplier and have a look see for yourself..
Not all big yards stock DOM. I deal with the biggest in the state and they haven't sold any in a few months when I called a few weeks back (and 4130 longer than 6 months). They do get a truck from that mill every week so as long as they know by Thurs, I have it on Mon when they see the truck. Since they have most everything else I was surprised they didn't stock DOM. They said they just didn't sell enough to stock it.
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  #58  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:13 AM
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Not all big yards stock DOM. I deal with the biggest in the state and they haven't sold any in a few months when I called a few weeks back (and 4130 longer than 6 months). They do get a truck from that mill every week so as long as they know by Thurs, I have it on Mon when they see the truck. Since they have most everything else I was surprised they didn't stock DOM. They said they just didn't sell enough to stock it.
Even the small yard I deal with has it...
Where are you?
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  #59  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:25 AM
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Vegas. Curtis Steel is the place. Primarily industrial, tons of virtually every kind, SS, AL, brass. The local industrial hardware place has 4' sticks of 1 1/2" .095 DOM for the outrageous price of 35 bucks.
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  #60  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by vegasloki View Post
Not all big yards stock DOM. I deal with the biggest in the state and they haven't sold any in a few months when I called a few weeks back (and 4130 longer than 6 months). They do get a truck from that mill every week so as long as they know by Thurs, I have it on Mon when they see the truck. Since they have most everything else I was surprised they didn't stock DOM. They said they just didn't sell enough to stock it.
MMMM... yup that can be an issue... some suppliers don't stock depending on area and needs in demand... (as E sorta, kinda mentioned) ... all in all it is expensive as a rule... what your pic showed is ERW and probably CERW... that will be just fine for any projects such as cages of sort.. Dom comes in different varieties.. up here i use it for 4 links or hinging fab work... but there's always an exception to the rule for the product...

Cheer'z for now

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