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Fabrication 101 Everyone has to start somewhere and for some, theOFN might be that somewhere.

Fabrication 101 Everyone has to start somewhere and for some, theOFN might be that somewhere.

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Old 04-18-2013, 09:12 AM
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2Xtreme 2Xtreme is offline
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Proper crimping technique...??

I’ve seen several discussions around the net regarding proper crimping technique and would like to get some members’ takes on which they prefer.

I had always been told and subscribed to crimping with the ‘nose’ or ‘anvil’ portion of the crimper on the OPPOSITE side of the split in the ferrule on the connector.

However, lately I have seen recommendation of crimping with the ‘nose’ or ‘anvil’ ON the split in the ferrule to split the wire strands into separate halves of the ferrule. Then turning the connector 90 degrees and moving to the next portion of the crimper to crimp the halves back in on each other.

I’ve also read:
“To ensure a better connection when working with small wire sizes, just strip the insulation a bit more and double over the wire connector, as in the photo. This provides more wire for the terminal to crimp onto. Ideally, the wire should be snug when inserted into the terminal.”

And even:
“Stripping about 1/2" of insulation, then winding the bare wire back around the insulation before inserting it into the terminal. The wire-over-insulation adds a lot of strength.”

EDIT: Obviously, soldering and heat shrinking go without saying...


Thanks in advance!


Last edited by 2Xtreme; 04-18-2013 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:24 AM
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Chocflip201 Chocflip201 is offline
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Ill reserve this post. Ill share what I always do when I get home tonight. Never have had a failure or an issue.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:16 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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While I have done and agree with the first picture but I only do it when wire size is too small for the smallest crimp I have. The second one I would never use, crimping over the soft insulation is unacceptable. The squishy insulation might take up space but wouldn't offer any strength to the connection.

The best way is to get the correct size of crimp terminal for the wire you are using. Strip no more then what is needed to get through the metal crimp portion of the terminal. Then, before inserting the wire into the crimp, twist the stripped end of the wire to align and tighten the strands of the wire. Insert and crimp.

I don't use the crimp pliers with the point in the crimp any longer. I bought full cycle ratchet crimping tool from greenly tools (grainger link). These crimpers ensure that every crimp is given exactly the right pressure every time. Since I have started using these I have not had any crimp failures. I even had a wire get yanked so hard that the wire broke about 3 inches from the crimp connection but the crimp was still secure.

If the connection is going to be exposed to lots of road water or other nasty corrosive environment I crimp on an uninsulated terminal, then solder, then clean to remove flux and finally cove with shrink tube. A connection like this will last forever and the electrical resistance is not likely to ever change.

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Old 04-18-2013, 12:26 PM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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I also got a ratcheting crimper. Mine's a Paladin with jaws that can be swapped out to do a number of different terminals. It takes the guesswork out of crimping terminals.

When I worked for an electrician, I was instructed the put the anvil over the split and squeeze the crap out of it. I never liked it because it mangled the terminal, but we didn't have problems with them coming off.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:45 PM
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bru21 bru21 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 210
Those lugs are terrible and I give them a WIDE berth! The best ones come without insulation and use a special (cheap) tool to fit them. The lug has a u shaped hole and the ends are rolled inwards which pinch the cable in two halves like all factory terminals. The lugs are cheaper than the insulated ones and less bulky too. Only solder after the lug is crimped - Never before, as the solder will relax and make a weak joint.

I'll try and grab some photo's of the tool and lugs this weekend.

edit like this:

See how one section grabs the wire and the other the pvc outer.

cheers bru

Last edited by bru21; 04-18-2013 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:06 PM
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landy_andy landy_andy is offline
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Location: Revelstoke, BC
Posts: 42
I generally only ever use the type as posted by 'bru21' and crimp the conductor first, then solder & finally crimp the insulation once it's cooled. I then either use a hot melt heat shrink over the top or a vinyl boot for less exposed situations. Has worked fine for me for years.
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:28 AM
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IOPort51 IOPort51 is offline
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In a perfect world the solder and heat shrink method is the first choice.

the terminals bru21 refers to are great in multi pin connectors and I like those soldered as well.

But that aside, I use the right size terminal for the wire and when available I use the sealing heat shrink terminals. I use Klien anvil crimps with the anvil on the solid side of the terminal, this seems not to distort the terminal as much.

If corrosion is a problem the crimp connectors may not be the answer and if you are pulling the wires out of the crimp you may want to re think the path of the wire to get it out of harms way.

If you are using spade connectors, never pull the wire to remove it, needle nosed pliers are the weapon of choice for this.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:37 PM
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bigpaul bigpaul is offline
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in a perfect world, never solder, you end up with the wire stress cracking at the end of the solder, a proper crimp,ie. one that is made with the right size terminal and the correctly set, right form, crimping pliers will give proper service for years, too many people out there think you just shove any terminal on and squeeze the sh*t out of it with any sort of pliers
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:15 PM
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cagedruss cagedruss is offline
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Being that I build and service customer Race Cars I can't afford a problem with a terminal coming loose in a race. I use either bare terminals and then crimp/solder/heat shrink and or solder-less ones that require heat to shrink after crimping.
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Old 09-11-2013, 06:13 PM
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bigpaul bigpaul is offline
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I was taught my skills maintaining, then manufacturing aircraft, and as they used to say, no layby's in the sky!so it had to be right first time, and laterly up until I retired, building fire trucks, again had to be totally reliable, so I do know a little about making off crimps and terminations. to the best of my knowledge, top race teams are all now using aircraft spec wiring harnesses, and these are almost always crimped and inserted , very few soldered joints because of the problems these can cause.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:44 PM
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IOPort51 IOPort51 is offline
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I see the point about the stress crack and agree, I would offer that the use of the anvil crimp pliers, like the ones I am so fond of and anything else that reduced the cross section of the wire when crimped, would be even more prone to this problem. I would have to conclude that the crimps that would exert the most even pressure and not distort the original round cross section would be necessary to achieve the "perfect" terminal. I would also offer that if the wire is adequately supported there will not be enough movement in the area to cause damage to anything.

The crimps of choice here are such a PITA to use and quite expensive. So far the Kliens have been working out well on the Jeep. so when I start building race cars and/or airplanes I may rethink the whole thing but for now I think I will just run what I have.
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