1963 Bel Air WAGON build

[streetwerkz]

they are stripped, will need all new bushings, and ball joints.
I was going to rebuild them, then I decided to go with tubular arms from Air Ride Technologies.. so they just collect dust for now

[jmastersinc]

I might in the future, not quiet to the frount end just yet, thanks

[Chairmnofthboard]

What did you do to keep the HEI Distributor from hitting the firewall?

[jmastersinc]

It was supper close but it clears and I have room to adjust the timing still, about a solid inch of clearance

[Chairmnofthboard]

Hmm that's crazy, Mine hits when I set the timing right. I searched the net and it seems it's a common problem.

So you have about an inch from the firewall and the HEI cap?

[jmastersinc]

sorry these aren't the best pictures I used my phone, its kinda hard to see with the wires in the way (they are too short going to get new ones) but it does clear by less than an inch, there IS a small chance that it might hit alittle when I get the timeing tuned in everything is just mocked up and it is a little hard starting and could use some more timing, if it hits I might just 'relieve' the fire wall a little with my good ol B.F.H.

[jmastersinc]

I am trying to get back on this project but kids, summer, and work always seem to take precedence. I did get the yolk for the 4 speed, new U-joints, and am trying to find a new carrier bearing for the drive line (Classic is back ordered but it is 22 plus shipping) Any one know where to get it cheaper?

[Chairmnofthboard]

JMA, that's exactly how my distributor is. It has a little space, but when you time it right, it hits the firewall.

Thanks for the pictures, that helped a lot.

[jmastersinc]

any other pictures you might need let me know, also if you have a better solution than a hammer let me know

[jmastersinc]

Havn't gotten a ton done with work and vacations, but I did get the clutch/brake pedal assembly in, what a pain, it was bent ever so slightly but after 2 days went in. Now I just need to build the z bar tab and welds to the frame and buy the pivoit ball that goes to the block (the z bar I have is from a I6)

[jmastersinc]

I also got the yolk for the 4 speed, new U-Joints, and Carrier berring so hopfully I can have the drive line in soon. After that it is just floor pans and new brakes and it will move under its own power for the first time since 1976.

[Blind Studios]

Looking good!!

All the little stuff adds up.

Keep up the good work.


-Jeff

[jmastersinc]

started rebuilding the driveline today. New U-joints, carrier berring, and yolk to mate up to the 4 speed

[jmastersinc]

I am starting the search for wheels and frount disk brakes. I herd somewhere that S-10 spindels will mount up to my A-arms? I am pretty sure it is the same bolt pattern 5 on 4.75 as the Belair?? Any one done this? Better way?

[Captainfab]

I don't know about the S10 spindles, but I do know that the aftermarket spindles (Heidts) for the '55-6-7's use the G-body rotors. I think those are the same as the S10 rotors IIRC. And yes they are 5 x 4.75. Is your Belair rear steer?

[jmastersinc]

Not realy sure what you mean by rear steer, but it has a factory rear end for now, but rear steer would be pretty sweet. I have a ford 9 inch with disk brakes I am putting in soon and am wanting to put front disk brakes on it also, just don't want to pony up 700 to 2000 bucks

[Captainfab]

What I meant by 'rear steer' is , is the steering box and steering linkage behind the left to right centerline of the front tires?

Originally Posted by jmastersinc

Not realy sure what you mean by rear steer, but it has a factory rear end for now, but rear steer would be pretty sweet. I have a ford 9 inch with disk brakes I am putting in soon and am wanting to put front disk brakes on it also, just don't want to pony up 700 to 2000 bucks

[jmastersinc]

ok now I see sorry, it is in the factory position