A walk. - Page 2

AndyLynne · #21 07-23-2010, 12:44 AM

maybe the problem is your ignition switch? just a thought. I have heard of some weird stuff like that happening when an ignition switch acts up....

entropy · #22 07-23-2010, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyLynne

maybe the problem is your ignition switch? just a thought. I have heard of some weird stuff like that happening when an ignition switch acts up....

Hard to prove at this point...
I have never been able to make it do it.

rbeckett · #23 07-23-2010, 08:11 AM

Hey E, the TFI on the side of the dist is a fairly common failed part on fords. It takes a "special" tool to get it off but I have seen a bunch of intermittent no starts cured by blindly replacing this part. Seems they check good, but fail when hot under certain circumstances. MAke sure you goop the white grease on both sides if you replace it because it helps keep the heat in the part down so it doesnt fry too. Autozone sells em, but NAPA or better parts stores sell a better piece for about the same money. Last one I got was like 40 buck, seem like. The special tool is just a thin wall torx socket, if you have quality tools you probably have the tool in your box, otherwise the tool is really cheap too.
Bob
Bob

Benderboy · #24 07-23-2010, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by entropy

...went out a bit ago to start testing, had my DMM and all that.
Check everything off and then set up to test while cranking,
hit the key it makes maybe 1/2-a-revolution fires and purrs like a kitten...
How do I fix it when it fixes itself?

Hummmm....Sounds like that engine is female.

Sometimes no matter what you do, you just can't turn them on

and then, just like that...

Benderboy

entropy · #25 07-23-2010, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbeckett

Hey E, the TFI on the side of the dist is a fairly common failed part on fords. It takes a "special" tool to get it off but I have seen a bunch of intermittent no starts cured by blindly replacing this part. Seems they check good, but fail when hot under certain circumstances. MAke sure you goop the white grease on both sides if you replace it because it helps keep the heat in the part down so it doesnt fry too. Autozone sells em, but NAPA or better parts stores sell a better piece for about the same money. Last one I got was like 40 buck, seem like. The special tool is just a thin wall torx socket, if you have quality tools you probably have the tool in your box, otherwise the tool is really cheap too.
Bob
Bob

Thanks but Dura-Spark system has no TFI module. If this thing had the TFI I would have replaced the whole system years ago!
I've got a line on a copy of a GOOD wiring diagram and I'm going to eliminate every wire that is not necessary, replace the Coil (have one), I've already tested the Dura-Spark box, the ignition switch has been replaced but...
The problem is, It is intermittent!!!!! Seems like every time I head at it with tools it fixes itself! So, I have an extra DMM and I'm going to toss it behind the seat; could be that it fixes it once and for all

entropy · #26 07-23-2010, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benderboy

Hummmm....Sounds like that engine is female.

Sometimes no matter what you do, you just can't turn them on

and then, just like that...

Benderboy

All of my machines are decidedly Female!

transman731 · #27 07-23-2010, 11:03 AM

i have a tool called "what quit first" you hook it up to various places on the engine and drive it, when it quits it tells you wether you lost fuel, fire or power.

entropy · #28 07-23-2010, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transman731

i have a tool called "what quit first" you hook it up to various places on the engine and drive it, when it quits it tells you wether you lost fuel, fire or power.

Not fuel.
Power takes out the fire.
Why is another question!

JaysinSpaceman · #29 07-23-2010, 02:16 PM

Ya know. I had a friend with a similar problem on a completely different vehicle (so it may not really help at all). When she hit a hard bump the car would die and would usually restart after pulling over an hitting the starter. This went on for almost a full year (meanwhile she got good at avoiding bumps) and it was in and out of the shop but no one could find it. Then her uncle stopped by and being the old mechanic he was thought he would give it a go. He started at the various plugs in the system and finally found that the main plug at the firewall was either loose or corroded (I can't remember which) and was barely making contact so when she hit a bump it would lose continuity. I don't really know Fords so I can't be of much help but you might want to start checking out the various connectors.

Jaysin

TheBandit · #30 07-23-2010, 03:29 PM

I had an ignition coil produce a similar problem where periodically it would quit firing altogether and suddenly start working again. I did a basic ohm check on the primary & secondary windings and it checked normal, yet the problem persisted. After replacing with a new coil, the problem went away. I'm guessing there was a vibration- or thermal- induced short or open in the coil was causing this.

entropy · #31 07-23-2010, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBandit

I had an ignition coil produce a similar problem where periodically it would quit firing altogether and suddenly start working again. I did a basic ohm check on the primary & secondary windings and it checked normal, yet the problem persisted. After replacing with a new coil, the problem went away. I'm guessing there was a vibration- or thermal- induced short or open in the coil was causing this.

I'm suspecting the coil and I'm going to try a replacement soon as I can.

entropy · #32 07-30-2010, 10:23 PM

So...

I put a coil in it because there was power to the coil but no spark.
POS started and ran great till today and No spark! HA! I had wire and so I jumped from the battery to the coil and Varoom!
What was it?

AndyLynne · #33 07-31-2010, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by entropy

So...

I put a coil in it because there was power to the coil but no spark.
POS started and ran great till today and No spark! HA! I had wire and so I jumped from the battery to the coil and Varoom!
What was it?

was it just a loose wire? or was it the ignition switch and i get a prize?

entropy · #34 07-31-2010, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyLynne

was it just a loose wire? or was it the ignition switch and i get a prize?

No & No & No

entropy · #35 08-03-2010, 09:59 PM

Oh my...

It turns out that it was not fixed

I didn't have to walk this time as it quit when I got back after a run to the store.
There are now 25-feet less wire, 4 less vacuum hoses and one less black box under the hood!! The only emission control remaining is the evap-can and the CAT, I'm confident neither is the issue.
I am starting to suspect the problem is going to be a broken wire (the reason I removed them) or something I have already replaced...
Oh well the truck is 5 bounds lighter

JaysinSpaceman · #36 08-03-2010, 10:41 PM

That's the ticket, remove shit until it quits or doesn't break anymore. I like it.

Jaysin

entropy · #37 08-03-2010, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman

That's the ticket, remove shit until it quits or doesn't break anymore. I like it.

Jaysin

That's the way I roll