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  #1  
Old 01-30-2016, 01:42 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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New Well Pump

So my home is on a well and it is a very low producer, about 1.5-2 gallons a minute which is barely enough to keep the house in water let alone keep a garden growing or wash a car or anything else that takes water during the summer. However there is a second well on the property that has never been developed and some testing last summer showed that it is likely about 6+ gallons a minute which would be a big improvement and take all of the garden and irrigation chores.

Now the new well is out at an area that is rather far from the house and shop so I am planning on running this new well off of solar panels. However, when I looked at pumps to do so I saw lots of $ or lots of maintenance and I really didn't like the various solutions so as per usual I decided to do things my own way...

I started to do research about Pump Jacks and sucker rod pumps. Well, Pump jacks seemed like something I could build, just a little version of what you see sucking crude oil out of the depths. And there are still many many sucker rod pumps in use all through the mid-west being run by old windmills to water livestock or irrigate fields so they can be had for relatively little cash. A bit of searching and a few days later the sucker rod pump showed up at my door, and I could start designing the pump jack itself.

I started by looking at the pump stroke itself, which is why I wanted to have the pump in hand before starting the jack design.

So I drew up the design in CAD...



It's super simple but gets me started.

Then I looked at what types of DC motors were available that could be driven directly from the solar panels with only a controller and no batteries. It will only pump when the sun is shining but here in sunny Cal that shouldn't be a problem. I found a few cheap DC motors in the range of 3/4 HP (I calculated that I should only need 1/4-1/3 HP) that run at 1800 rpm. So it was time to figure out how many strokes per minute I needed. After talking to the pump manufacturer it looked like 20-30 strokes a minute would be best. I decided that with 24 strokes per min I would get the daily water I wanted over a 6 hour pumping day and that works out to 75:1 speed reduction from the 1800 rpm motor speed. I looked around Surplus Center and found gear sizes and a belt drive that would get me there and came up with this drawing...



It is a 3:1 belt reduction from the motor and two 5:1 chains that get me to my 75:1 goal. The funny little circle with the slot is for an idler sprocket for the final chain reduction.

Then after, or more truthfully during, the drawing of all of the above I worked on the frame and rocker arm and crank shaft for the whole thing and came up with this design...



The arm has 10g side plate with 1/4 x 2 flat bar top and bottom to make a boxed in section. The main frame portion is 3/16 plate that I plasma cut with a 3/16 by 4 1/2 strap between the plates and a 3/16 plate base.

The little crank shaft arms (one on each side) are 5" long center to center giving a 10" stroke and the rocker arm is 1:1 ratio so the pump rod also strokes 10".

I had cut all the parts a while back but haven't had time to work on it until now (really I still don't have time but I just need to do it before summer is here). I spent some time after hours the last few days getting something done. And here are the results so far...



I am going to spend tomorrow working on it and I will take some more detail shots as I go. As it is it has 8 mounted bearings and 2 pairs of bushings so it's been fun making sure things are staying aligned.

Hope you enjoy the non offroad fab.

Thanx for tuning in,
Jaysin
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2016, 10:49 AM
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bullnerd bullnerd is offline
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Totally awesome execution as always!

Love the retro industrial style that goes into all your designs.

Any chance someone is going to want this more than you when they come across it in the woods?

Cant wait to see the finished machine.
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2016, 11:35 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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I suppose there is always a chance that it could find a new home but it will be bolted to a concrete pad and the noise of moving it would be within rifle range of the house.

Glad you like the style, Bull.

Thanx
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Old 01-30-2016, 08:00 PM
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How deep is your well?

E
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2016, 10:16 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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To the bottom it is 300'+/- the standing water level is about 105'. Then up the hill to the new tanks is another 28' or so.

Jaysin
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2016, 01:15 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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More details from today. I worked on getting all the mechanicals tacked together and fit up.

This is the business end of the arm. The cable to the pump rod will ride up and down in this slot. The slot has a radius that the cable follows so that it is always pulling the cable directly vertical.



This is the main pivot. Here you can see the split collar clamp on the outside of the frame that holds a bushing in which pivots the shaft, only the lower half of the split collar is welded to the frame. The shaft will eventually be drilled in the end for a zerk fitting and cross drilled to grease the bushing.



This shows the main pivot as well but on the inside of the frame. I didn't want to weld the shaft to the arm so there is also a split collar clamp welded to both sides of the main arm to clamp the shaft instead. This way if the shaft ever wears out I can replace it. Sorry for the slightly blurry picture, I need to get out my good camera instead of using my cell phone.



Here's the other end of the main arm where the connecting rods attach. Bushings at the top and bearings at the crank end of the rods. I may do something to add support to the cross shaft if I see any flexing going on, a bit more unsupported shaft then I would like. I also need to trim the cross shaft to length and again here I will drill for zerks. This shaft is connected to the main rocker arm the same way as the pivot shaft is, with split collar clamps welded to the arm so that if I every have to replace the shaft I can.



A couple of shots of the connecting rods themselves. Fairly self explanatory but... One has had the I-beam style flanges tacked to it and one hasn't beed done yet. You might notice that the flanges that I welded to both edges are much brighter then the rest of it, that's because it is some 3/16 x 3/4 304 SS that I had laying around from an old customer project and I didn't have any of the same size in mild steel. The bushed end is at the connection to the rocker arm and the bearing attaches to the crank arm.





One of the crank arms. I may end up boxing these in if they flex/twist too much.



The sprockets and their order.



Looking up underneath at the chain drive, you can see the belt on the right too.



And last but not least (sometimes I can get this technology thing right) the test video. The motor is just clamped to the base plate with vice grips but it was the right speed for the job. Oh Yeah, sorry about the disaster area that is my shop right now, I have GOT to clean up.



Right now most everything is just tacked together. I wanted to get it assembled so I could see that everything fit before I spent a bunch of time, shielding gas and electricity welding it all up just to have to cut things apart again. I think I have about a day's welding to do on it but with the pre-assembly everything went pretty well. I have a few little adjustments to make but I more or less got everything right the first time, sometimes I even surprise myself.

Thanx for following the odd,
Jaysin
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  #7  
Old 01-31-2016, 05:10 AM
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350 Vortec 350 Vortec is offline
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No matter If it never pumped a drop of water!!its a work of art,lovely and looking forward to seeing more
We don't have this type of pump here at all..water generally finds us also though 😁😁😁😁
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:56 AM
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deaner deaner is offline
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Another awesome project! A work of art! Are you going to let the connecting rods rust? The contrast with the stainless could be stunning.
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  #9  
Old 01-31-2016, 11:40 AM
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Complete with Bugs Bunny mechanical contraption sound effects!

How'd you cut all the parts out? CNC plasma? I cant remember you saying.
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2016, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
To the bottom it is 300'+/- the standing water level is about 105'. Then up the hill to the new tanks is another 28' or so.

Jaysin
Hmmmm........

I just may need on of these!

E
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2016, 12:24 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Thanx guys. I'm really having fun with the design. We have a long driveway and this will sit just off the side so we will have to see it all the time, a big reason for the design to be more then just functional. While i wouldn't mind leaving it to rust I think it will all get powder coated, although we haven't really decided on colors. I have decided to paint the sprockets either in quarters or spirals so that you can see their movement and different speeds.

As for the cutting, i designed it all in CAD and cut it on my plasma table. I will admit that even if the plasma table didn't help me make a living I would still be stoked to have it just for my own stuff.

The sound in the video seems much louder then it seems in person, but it is a bit cartoon contraption sounding.

Thanx again,
Jaysin
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  #12  
Old 01-31-2016, 12:32 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy View Post
Hmmmm........

I just may need on of these!

E
Once it is really up and pumping water I might think about selling it as a kit of sorts. From doing my research it seems like it should be able to pump from about 500' with 200'+ of head. I'll try to post a link to the sucker rod pump that I'm using a little later.

Jaysin
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:40 PM
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rokrunner rokrunner is offline
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I dig the pump. Awesome work. Ya got more pics of the english wheel in the background?
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  #14  
Old 01-31-2016, 10:52 PM
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Scrambled Scrambled is offline
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Jaysin-

I really like the design. It should work well. Don't take this wrong, but why?

I live on a farm, with very few neighbors. I would go nuts having to listen to that every time someone used water.

On my farm, sounds travel great distances. Imagine sitting on the back deck watching the stars and some one turn on the water in the house and then the pump turns on.

Inline stainless pumps are cheap.


again, I like the design, I also like quiet.


Steve
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:36 AM
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Graham08 Graham08 is offline
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Very cool! I fixed my low producing well by connecting to city water two summers ago...I had forgotten what a luxury it is to have water upstairs while the washing machine is filling in the basement.

I really like the design. I was really close to pulling the trigger on a CNC plasma a couple years ago and ended up not doing it when a large project fell through. Seeing stuff like this makes me wish I had.

Is this going to fill a holding tank, or just pump directly to the faucets, etc. that water will be coming out of?

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Old 02-01-2016, 11:45 AM
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I think it has a bit of a industrial / steampunk feel. Maybe the sprockets should be brass plated to carry that theme forward. Love the design!

Joanne
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:50 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is online now
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Damn cool as hell! You're my hero.

I ran a quick check on your power needs and confirmed you do need around 1/3hp to pump 6gpm up 133ft. Checking pipe loss, if you use 1" ID pipe or larger, the friction losses at that rate will be only a couple percent, but if you drop to 3/4" it amounts to closer to 10%. How big of a solar panel are you going to run? You're going to need at least 250watts. I don't know how much power you're losing into that machine, but it sounds a bit noisy. I suggest putting an ammeter in line to estimate free-spinning power consumption.

I assume this pump will not pressurize the water for household use? If you want typical service pressure (55psi) directly off this pump, you'll need about twice the power.
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
Checking pipe loss, if you use 1" ID pipe or larger, the friction losses at that rate will be only a couple percent, but if you drop to 3/4" it amounts to closer to 10%.
I did this on my project, and I'm glad I did. I can't remember now if I went up to 1-1/2" or 2" off the 1" meter at the road, but the pipe was much larger for the 600' run off the road than it was at either end. I was paranoid about losing a bunch of water pressure in the run due to frictional losses and didn't want to dig it up and do it over.
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:30 PM
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Oiling the chains will quiet it up a LOT.
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  #20  
Old 02-01-2016, 11:03 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambled View Post
Jaysin-

I really like the design. It should work well. Don't take this wrong, but why?

I live on a farm, with very few neighbors. I would go nuts having to listen to that every time someone used water.

On my farm, sounds travel great distances. Imagine sitting on the back deck watching the stars and some one turn on the water in the house and then the pump turns on.

Inline stainless pumps are cheap.


again, I like the design, I also like quiet.


Steve
Scrambled, I thought a lot about the noise. First because it is solar it will only run when the sun shines, no batteries so no night running. Second, it will be filling 5000 gallons of tank so it it won't be coming on every time the water is turned on. And when it is all said and done my wife said she wants to hear it because it will remind her of where our water comes from and help her conserve it. That said I do understand your concerns though.

As a side note, part of the noise in the video was the fact that I forgot to align and lock down the sprockets on their shafts. I did that and it cut the noise in half at least.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
Damn cool as hell! You're my hero.

I ran a quick check on your power needs and confirmed you do need around 1/3hp to pump 6gpm up 133ft. Checking pipe loss, if you use 1" ID pipe or larger, the friction losses at that rate will be only a couple percent, but if you drop to 3/4" it amounts to closer to 10%. How big of a solar panel are you going to run? You're going to need at least 250watts. I don't know how much power you're losing into that machine, but it sounds a bit noisy. I suggest putting an ammeter in line to estimate free-spinning power consumption.

I assume this pump will not pressurize the water for household use? If you want typical service pressure (55psi) directly off this pump, you'll need about twice the power.
Thanx for checking my numbers for me. I will likely use a 3/4 HP motor just to be on the safe side. I haven't decided on the solar panel size yet but I was told by a friend in the solar biz that I would want to have about 1000 watts so it turns on earlier and off later using a direct DC motor controller. I will check the Amps that it is drawing when it's free spinning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham08 View Post
I did this on my project, and I'm glad I did. I can't remember now if I went up to 1-1/2" or 2" off the 1" meter at the road, but the pipe was much larger for the 600' run off the road than it was at either end. I was paranoid about losing a bunch of water pressure in the run due to frictional losses and didn't want to dig it up and do it over.
As for the pipe size I am going to run 1 1/4" and I am not worried about pressure drop as much as flow since I am just pumping into a tank that will get it own pressure pump for the end supply. And city water where I live, not so much, it ends about 6 miles from my house.

Thanx to everyone for your positive responses, ideas and concerns.
Jaysin

P.S. Joanne, I like the idea of brass plating. It might give it a sort of watch mechanism feel. I'll have to run that past the wife.
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