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In The Shop Shop talk, shop tools & fixtures, shop wear, anything for the shop that is not covered in another forum.

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  #21  
Old 09-13-2014, 05:18 AM
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Good work,I'd be carefull backfilling a 5ft block wall,leave it as long as possible and compact in small stages if possible ..stuff you know I'm sure,can you bank outside also??think about running some power ducts under floor or any other services you can think of,if you can afford to put some insulation under slab then do it,such a difference to work on an insulated slab..are you reinforcing the slab?
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  #22  
Old 09-13-2014, 05:38 AM
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I am planning on 5000 psi concrete with fiberglass added. I might also add some wire mesh.

If I can figure out where stuff is going I might add some conduit in the floor.


Steve
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  #23  
Old 09-15-2014, 06:53 AM
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Wire mesh in the floor would be a good call. A lot of the guys on Garage Journal have rebar in the slab, but I think it's as much for bragging rights as anything.

I second the suggestion of insulation under the slab. I have 2" of rigid foam under mine and it makes a huge difference heating the place in the winter. I have radiant tube heat, so I would lose a bunch through the slab if it weren't insulated.
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  #24  
Old 09-26-2014, 09:13 PM
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Not too much to report on the shop progress. I had to move one of the bridge crane columns. It was in the center of the drive thru door. Oops

Then I found a water leak in the siding on the house. It was leaking into the basement. So that had to be fixed.

If that is not enough, I had to work to pay for it all!!!!


Steve
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  #25  
Old 10-09-2014, 10:18 PM
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Got to work on the shop yesterday and today. The drain tile is in, and a 50 ton layer of 57 rock went on top of the drain tile. After that 300 tons of waste rock. If it is not raining tomorrow, the final 100 tons of rock.

I have decided to add 2 inches of rigid foam under the concrete.

Steve
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  #26  
Old 10-09-2014, 10:49 PM
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I have decided to add 2 inches of rigid foam under the concrete.

Steve
The one thing I wish I had done.

E
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  #27  
Old 10-10-2014, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambled View Post
I have decided to add 2 inches of rigid foam under the concrete.
Nice! It sucks to buy it, but it's definitely something you can't do after the fact. You won't regret the purchase.

Here's a pic of concrete going down over my foam...

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  #28  
Old 10-11-2014, 04:53 PM
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Here it is at 500 or 550 tons. Still have 25 ish tons of #4 rock and then 50 tons DGA.

That should do it. After that is in, compact again. Hand rake the top of the DGA so it is smooth. Add foam, then concrete.

I talked to the concrete guy today. He said the 5000 psi is way over kill. He is wanting to use 4000 psi with fiberglass.



Steve
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  #29  
Old 10-11-2014, 05:06 PM
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I did 5k but did not do the Glass.
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  #30  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:08 PM
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Entropy-

How thick is your concrete?

Steve
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  #31  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:43 PM
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Entropy-

How thick is your concrete?

Steve
Been a while, as I recall the spec was 4k at something like 4"(?) we changed it to be officially 6" give or take; but when calculating the load, I could get 8" at the door end bays for the same $$,$$$ so that is about 24' of the slab.
The perimeter is 2.5'W by 2.5'D then a 2'Wide by 1.5'Deep Tie-Footer every 12' with the field being 8" in the first two bays.
Well, that is what I remember it being that was about 10-years ago so take it with a gain of salt
At the time Glass was not something I wanted to work on so I opted out; wish we had done the foam under the slab but we went foam on the perimeter instead. Things have really changed in the past decade and I would do many things differently! I'd run more steel, Pour lift blocks, run 2 conduits every place I ran one and at least 2" Dia. and a few other things.
E
I suppose I could dig up the specs and verify that...
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  #32  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:51 PM
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What is a lift block?


I was thinking about installing some recessed tie downs in the floor.


Steve
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  #33  
Old 10-11-2014, 08:03 PM
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The Big concrete block that has the anchors for the lift, particularly the two post type. I'd pour 2' wider 6 feet front to back and at least a foot-n-a-half thick with J-bolts fully embedded.

Recessed tie down could be good BUT they tend to fill up with floor-crud.
I like the Female Anchor Bolts for pulling work but I have ripped them out of the slab, so I can Deff see the recessed anchor poured in place. I like the threaded anchor because I can plug em with a StStl BHCS.

E
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  #34  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:12 PM
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The design I have in mind is a piece of 3 inch sched 40 pipe. Weld this to a 12 x 12 x 1/2 plate. Cut a hole in the center of the plate. Stick a piece of grade 70 3/8 chain through the hole. Stick a piece of round rod through the first ring of chain. Weld the round rod on the back side of the plate. This way I don't weld to the chain. Add a recessed cap to the free end of chain. Drop chain in pipe when not in use.
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  #35  
Old 10-11-2014, 09:20 PM
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The only thing I would suggest is to make it so that it can be accessed when something goes SNAFU.
Maybe use a 3" Schd-40 Pipe threaded and then use a Female Steel Coupling and weld the plate to that then make the plate round so that you can unscrew it to make a repair or clean it out...
Having to jackhammer out stuff to make repairs is a PITA

E
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  #36  
Old 10-13-2014, 03:39 PM
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I know of a couple guys that have embeded I-beams in the floor so that they can weld to them as an anchor point.
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  #37  
Old 10-13-2014, 05:39 PM
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Captainfab.

I like that idea!


I have a few laying around

Steve
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  #38  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:54 PM
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I was able to order the 2 inch rigid foam and the 6 x 6 inch wire mesh.

The concrete guy wants to poor it on next Tuesday if the weather holds out


Steve
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  #39  
Old 10-23-2014, 10:28 PM
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Today the wire mesh and the 2 inch foam were delivered.

They are going to poor the concrete on Tuesday, I hope.


Steve

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  #40  
Old 10-24-2014, 04:40 PM
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Super,you won't regret insulation I'm sure,are you doubling up ?that a lot of boards
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