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  #541  
Old 10-23-2015, 10:48 PM
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Wasnt sure what that coating was but apparently its a lead / tin mixture. Sounds like it can be painted but perhaps not necessary. For me I think Id rather have a black or dark colored tank under the car vs a shiny silver one. But thats jsut me, and maybe you cant see it really under yours anyway.

Dan
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  #542  
Old 10-26-2015, 09:59 AM
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I see a lot of wiring on that list. Is this a complete rewire, or just adding the stuff to make the new engine and fuel system work?
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  #543  
Old 10-26-2015, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
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I see a lot of wiring on that list. Is this a complete rewire, or just adding the stuff to make the new engine and fuel system work?
I'm not doing a complete rewire, but I am relocating the battery to the trunk and have about half the engine-related wiring left to do. As a result I've got to mount the battery in a sealed box (NHRA & SCCA), install a cutoff switch (NHRA), run some heavy wiring front to rear, wire up an engine fuse panel, fuel pump and fan relays, and terminate a few dozen more logic/signal circuits for things like the O2 sensors, throttle pedal, gauges, etc. The list gets pretty long when I write it out, which is why I decided to bucket it all into one "phase" .

I got a few more hours into the car yesterday and buttoned up the fuel system . The tank is finally strapped under the car and I'm 100% connected from in-tank pump to the fuel injectors.



Here is a look at the clearance where the fuel pump fittings exit the top of the tank - pretty much right up against the trunk floor.



And to prove things are plumbed, here is a photo of the filter/regulator.



I mounted it to the frame by drilling and a tapping a 1/4-20 hole. The filter/regulator is a Wix 33737 for a '99-'04 Corvette. I used Fragola -6 braided nylon hose with Russel fittings for the supply and return lines. On the tank end, I used 1/4NPT to -6 JIS flare fittings from a hydraulic supply then Russel 610025 -6 AN to -6 hose ends. For the filter end, I used Russel 611253 and 611203 ends which go directly from -6 hose to the 5/16 and 3/8 push-connect fittings on the regulator (I used the same 611203 at fuel rail). I used Russel 640940 to connect from the regulator outlet to -6 flare for the 3/8" hard line going to the front of the car. My quick add on fuel line and fittings (not including the filter/regulator) is around $200 from tank to fuel rail. The Russel fittings that go directly from hose to EFI push-connect were ~$70 of that ($23ea), the braided hose about $64, and a 25' roll of 3/8" steel line was $30. There are cheaper ways to plumb this to be sure, but I like the AN fittings and braided hose.

Adding up costs on the fuel system, I am just floored at what I've spent on the fuel system. $200 in fittings/hoses, $35 filter/regulator, $315 for the Walbro 255 pump Tanks Inc. hanger rollover valve and prefabbed recess tray, $200 for welding, $160 for a new tank. That's over $900. My original plan was to use my original tank ($-160) and just cut a hole in the trunk and make a cover myself rather than recess the pump hanger ($-245), which would have saved about $400. These days you can get a ready made fuel injection tank for this application from Tanks Inc for $255 plus the cost of a pump and hanger - I would definitely go that route if I had to do this over again.
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Last edited by TheBandit; 10-26-2015 at 12:00 PM.
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  #544  
Old 10-26-2015, 11:37 AM
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Looking good. And ya, fuel systems always seem to cost way more than you'd think. It is pretty important though.

Dan
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  #545  
Old 10-26-2015, 12:15 PM
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What are you using to keep track of all of the custom parts for future reference / replacement? I hope to be doing a custom resto-mod soon and haven't decided on a good method for it.
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  #546  
Old 10-26-2015, 12:36 PM
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I use excel or google docs to keep track of all my parts. Make a tab or a section for each system (fuel,brakes, electrical etc) and list all the parts with description, p/n, cost, where purchased etc. Can even add weblinks for quick reference. I also like to scan in receipts or datasheets and organize them into folders.

Dan
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  #547  
Old 10-26-2015, 01:42 PM
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...have you enough fuel flow through a 1/4-NPT?

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  #548  
Old 10-26-2015, 01:51 PM
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Yes. The ID of a 1/4" NPT fitting is pretty close to the ID of a -6 AN fitting. Silly pipe dimensions.
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  #549  
Old 10-26-2015, 02:05 PM
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Yes. The ID of a 1/4" NPT fitting is pretty close to the ID of a -6 AN fitting. Silly pipe dimensions.
The 1/4 is smaller and perhaps more important it is full of sharp edges on the orifice transitions. Yes, I understand that we often have no real choice. That 1/4" NPT, often looks much smaller to the working fluid. If you find cavitation or limited flow issues down the road remember that fitting.


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  #550  
Old 10-26-2015, 02:33 PM
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My experience with plumbing a fuel system is consistent with yours. It's amazing how it can nickel and dime (really more like $5 and $10) its way to a huge number. Looks great!
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  #551  
Old 10-27-2015, 10:37 AM
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What are you using to keep track of all of the custom parts for future reference / replacement? I hope to be doing a custom resto-mod soon and haven't decided on a good method for it.
I keep my invoices and use this thread as a build journal, but nothing special beyond that. I suppose there's some risk of being stranded and not recalling what random hose or belt I used, but I do have the Internet on my cell phone and I can improvise. Those are things people with running/driving cars worry about - seems like I may never get to that point.
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  #552  
Old 10-27-2015, 11:43 AM
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I suppose there's some risk of being stranded and not recalling what random hose or belt I used, but I do have the Internet on my cell phone and I can improvise.
AAA membership and cell phone. The likelihood of finding the particular widget you need in BFE is slim to none anyway...at least that's my experience.
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  #553  
Old 10-27-2015, 12:02 PM
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Realistically if things are built correctly you are not likely to fail any critical component other then a "Hose" that can't be bandaged with some commonly available part. The exception is Radiator hoses and Fan belts for those I use a Sharpie and write the part number under the hood, I always have it.

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  #554  
Old 10-27-2015, 12:15 PM
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AAA membership and cell phone. The likelihood of finding the particular widget you need in BFE is slim to none anyway...at least that's my experience.
AAA has been the best money I have spent on a car. Paid for itself twice over the first year.
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  #555  
Old 11-16-2015, 12:40 PM
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Minor update. I got the old battery mounted using a Moroso 74051 sealed poly box. From my reading, this particular box meets both NHRA and SCCA requirements for a trunk-relocated battery. I will put a new battery in there when I'm closer to first start.



NHRA rules require a master disconnect switch for relocating the battery. I have decided to use a push-pull battery disconnect, because I think it looks better than a rotary type and I'll have the option to take out the rod when I'm not at at the track (99.9% of the time). I am using a Jegs 10370 push-pull assembly and QuickCar 55-011 master disconnect switch. This switch has separate terminals to isolate the alternator, preventing the engine from running off alternator power so it can truly be shut off.

Looking over options, I decided I would like to mount this right behind the tail panel on the "shelf" that exists in the trunk. I began by placing the switch assembly in this area to mark the height/position for the thru hole, using a predetermined distance from the taillight for left-right placement.



Then I drilled a pilot hole from the inside of the trunk. I hope I don't regret this down the road.



Next I opened up the hole until I could just fit the rod through. The mock-up is looking good.



The Jegs kit comes with a 5/8" ID grommet while the rod is 1/2" OD. The fit is just too loose for my liking so I will pick up a new grommet today, final size the hole, and move on to mounting the bracket and resizing the rod.
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  #556  
Old 11-16-2015, 02:02 PM
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I hate that rule...
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  #557  
Old 11-16-2015, 02:06 PM
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I think a lot of it depends on how strict your local track is. Some just dont really care. I did one on my car and had the shaft come out the trim under the tail light so I can swap in one without a hole for the 99.9% of the time. Going through the tail light might have been an option if they are readily available and not $$$$.

Anyway, to any progress.

Dan
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  #558  
Old 11-16-2015, 03:26 PM
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Yup, I understand the rule, I think but I would bet 75% the wiring leading to the switch is the problem with remote mounting the battery not the battery location.

I was going to suggest a switch through the bottom of the trunk with a external rod under the bumper, its too late now.
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  #559  
Old 11-16-2015, 06:38 PM
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I'm going to put a parachute and wheelie bar next to it so nobody will notice.
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  #560  
Old 11-16-2015, 07:47 PM
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You might want to leave the chute off, that really gets there attention to make you go through tech.

I used to get away with all kinds of stuff, once. Once they see the old Elco leave wheels up they want to look at all the certs before your next pass. Where is your helmet and all that stuff, party poopers.
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