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  #421  
Old 07-22-2013, 04:49 PM
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It means a lot coming from you guys. Thanks!
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  #422  
Old 07-23-2013, 03:49 PM
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Very nice work Clint!

I assume you are using the split loom and not the expandable loom?
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  #423  
Old 07-23-2013, 04:31 PM
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Thanks! Yes, i am using split loom Techflex F6.
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  #424  
Old 07-24-2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
Thanks! Yes, i am using split loom Techflex F6.
I see there is also an F6F which is flame retardant. Did you use that or the standard F6? Self extinguishing might be nice, just in case.

Dan
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  #425  
Old 07-24-2013, 11:32 AM
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I am using standard woven F6 (F6W). I called Techflex and found it is rated per UL-94 to V0, which means when a sample was held vertically and subject to an ignition source, the burning stopped within 10 seconds of the ignition source being removed. Drips of particles are allowed in this test as long as they are not inflamed. This is a good rating for flammability. I repeated this test in my garage using a butane lighter. If I hold it in the flame momentarily, it will burn, but extinguishes almost immediately after the flame is removed. I wasn't able to find the flame retardant version. Do you have a link?

Continuing work, here is one more shot of the passenger side in its current state. It should look good when all the AC stuff is cleaned up.



Last night I got most of the driver's side injector harness done in about 2 hours. I had to replace the no 1 injector trigger wire because it was too short. It will be the only injector with 18gauge on both the ECM trigger and +12volts (factory I think is 20gauge). Also all the +12volt wires are new. Unfortunately I do not have pink/blk for this bank like the factory, so I will have to keep track of which pink wires are for bank 1 vs bank 2 to fuse them separately.

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  #426  
Old 07-25-2013, 01:38 PM
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I am using standard woven F6 (F6W). I called Techflex and found it is rated per UL-94 to V0, snip
Ah, I missed that. UL 94V0 gets the job done for sure.

Dan
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  #427  
Old 07-27-2013, 03:20 PM
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Finished that part of the harness last night.













Originally I was thinking I would run the mechanical coolant temp gauge I already have. Below is how I planned to route the sensing bulb. There is a nice area on the backside of the waterpump outlet where you could tap for a sensor. The capillary tube fits between the intake and valley cover so it would stay hidden. But I think I am going to use CAN gauges from Speedhut instead.



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  #428  
Old 07-29-2013, 03:33 PM
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Very professional looking Clint.
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  #429  
Old 07-29-2013, 07:11 PM
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Looking great Clint.
Neater than my first attempt in 06 with nothing other then the dealer pinout print to guide me (no colors). When it fired the exhaust lit the drawing on fire - lucky I got it right first go. I made the mistake of removing the OBD2 plug as no one used them then. Flashing was done via the computer harness. When I went in for a tune update the guy was upset about doing it the 'old way'.





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  #430  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:27 AM
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Thanks guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bru21 View Post
Looking great Clint.
Neater than my first attempt in 06 with nothing other then the dealer pinout print to guide me (no colors). When it fired the exhaust lit the drawing on fire - lucky I got it right first go. I made the mistake of removing the OBD2 plug as no one used them then. Flashing was done via the computer harness. When I went in for a tune update the guy was upset about doing it the 'old way'.
Nice work! I am so fortunate to be doing this now when so much information and technical know how is available on swapping with these engines.

I've started working on the coil harness. This is a real challenge because each coil has four wires, three of which get joined in sets of four (12+, ground and signal ground). Each of those junctions essentially has five wires connected (1 in, 4 out) which presents quite a challenge. I have played with a number of different ways to join wires and ultimately decided on this method.

The following photos show a practice run on scrap wire. The first step is stripping the ends of four wires about 1". I do not twist the strands at all at this point.



Next I joined pairs of wires by twising them around eachother. I start by putting a slight bend in both wires about half way, hook them with eachother, then carefully wrap the strands.



After that, I put the four wires into an X and then twist them around eachother in the same direction.



Last comes the "input" wire. I strip a lot of insulation off this one, about 2", to give plenty of strand length for wrapping.



It then gets wrapped around the others, again working in the same direction. The finished wrap is shown below. I can tug on each of the individual wires and they don't budge. This joint is ready for solder.



I worked hard to find the original Delphi adhesive shrink wrap that is used on the factory harness. It is Delphi PN 12186167. They are 2.5" long. I bought a bunch from Mouser. http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Produ...EaDdmQhlpZiPA=



Now to make my first actual junction. I followed the same sequence as above. This is for the signal ground for the odd cylinders.









The solder joint wasn't awesome, but the solder did wick around all the strands after it was heated. It really took some time to heat up with the little iron I was using. This is a big joint.

And here is the start the coil harness for the first four (odd bank) coils.





This is going to be a lot of work!
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Last edited by TheBandit; 08-01-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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  #431  
Old 08-01-2013, 04:18 PM
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Looking great! I have used that joining method with plenty of success in the past. Make sure you get a hot enough iron so the joints are not dry. Also cold irons can increase the time heat needs to be applied and kill some components - such as LED's and the like.

I would also take the time to work out what sort of immobilizer you want - as it is better to integrate it at this stage,

Cheers Justin
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  #432  
Old 08-12-2013, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bru21 View Post
I would also take the time to work out what sort of immobilizer you want - as it is better to integrate it at this stage,
Thanks Justin! That's a very good idea. I really need to think about this.

Continuing work on the coil harness... I picked up a Portasol 125w butane soldering iron and wow, that was a great idea! The 50w Weller I've used for electronics soldering has always worked great, but it's just not powerful enough for this type of joint.





The odd bank coils and junctions went together nicely. Once I had all three junctions done, I laid them on top of the trigger wires which I had already setup to the desire length and tee-off location.



Then I wrapped the main run to get things bundled. I was surprised to find the wrapped section wasn't very big despite the junctions.



I left excess on each of the junction wires and cut them to length afterwards.



Then I added terminals, loom and heat shrink for the individual coil lengths, put the terminals in the connectors, and shrunk the ends. I used no harness wrap on these short runs and picked the smallest diameter loom I could, which doesn't have much overlap.



I was also in an in-between heat shrink size, so the resulting 2:1 shrink ended up open-mouth with some curl on the ends. I'm thinking about redoing the shrink on these with either a smaller size (hard to get on) or 3:1.



Now that I have the first section done, the other 4 coils should go a bit faster.

Can anyone think of what circuits I might want to ground to the back of the driver's side head? So far I have just the coils. I'm thinking about also joining the OBDII ground there, but not sure what else. The main ECM ground and the MAF are grounded to front of the passenger head. Am I missing any?

Here is a link to the wiring diagram I am working from: http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/lsx...sSchematic.JPG
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  #433  
Old 08-13-2013, 11:24 AM
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I finished up the 3 junctions for the even bank coils tonight. It took about an hour now that I have the hang of it.

First, the signal ground junction. For both the signal ground and the main ground I used the original wire from the old harness leading up to the junction, then new 18g from there to each coil. The main ground is 16g while the signal ground is 20g. Except for the +12v line, I reused all the input lines so I could keep the factory wire colors and ECM terminals. This helped maintain colors so I didn't have to buy a bunch of striped wire. The even bank has the same colors as the odd bank, but with white stripes. Here are the wire strands wrapped, soldered and sealed.









Here is the ground junction.







Here is the method used for the 4 coil wires coming off each junction. I started by marking the wires to get a consistent strip length.





Once stripped, I put about a 45 degree bend midway along the strands. This positions them for twisting.







Once they are twisted up, if there are strands overlapping the insulation as above, I pull the wires apart. With enough tension, they slide along one another. Next up, solder and shrink. I love this butane soldering iron!



I was really excited to have a heat tip with deflector for the butane soldering iron which is meant for doing shrink tube, but in practice I am trying to complete one joint and move to the next, so the solder tip is still way too hot to remove in time to replace with the heat shrink tip. So instead I used a butane lighter to shrink the tube. As mentioned above this is the Delphi adhesive tube that's used on the factory harness. It takes a while after it's already shrunk before the adhesive starts to ooze out.



And there they are, done done done!

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Last edited by TheBandit; 08-13-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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  #434  
Old 08-19-2013, 12:50 PM
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I finished up the even/passenger bank coil wiring and wrapped her up. This time I used a smaller heat shrink on the ends, but it still flares out a bit so I don't plan to redo the other ones; I'll just live with it.



After wrapping all 8 coil harnesses together, I proceeded to add loom. I found this method worked really well for teeing out of the braided. First I opened the split loom and wrapped it on the edge of the workbench, then I used my butane soldering iron to melt notches out of it everywhere I had an exit branch. The melting process ties all the loose ends together so you don't have fraying.



You may notice the even bank pigtails on the left are longer than the odd bank pigtails on the right. I did this to dodge the A/C harness pass-through on the firewall. I should have had all the pigtails the same length but realized this after I had done the first four.



Here it is on the firewall. I need to add wire clamps to even things up.





With everything loomed on the rear harness, I was ready to pin the coils, injectors and oil pressure sensor back into the ECM connector. A few notes on this; for one of the fuel injectors, I had to use a new length of wire and chose 18 gauge as a good general purpose. The insulation is a very tight fit on the ECM connector body. I wouldn't recommend using this big of wire unless you need to; 20 is plenty big and fits a lot better. Also you may notice I have a set of wires that is shorter than the other going into the ECM, so the routing on one set loops around while the other routes directly to the connector. This happened because my originally intention was to cut all the fuel injector wires shorter and repin them, but found one of the factory injector wires was shorter than all my coil wires. So I cut all the factory injector wires to the same length and left all the coil wires alone. The result is mismatched lengths, but I can wrap these up with a bend and they should work fine. I thought this was a better option than cutting all the coil wires and repining them too - no reason to mess with the factory crimped terminals if I don't need to.



Looking at my ECM I/O list, the only things left on connector 2 (X2) are the O2 sensors. On the other connector I still have a number of connections to make: brake switch, fans, ign+, batt+, pedal (APP), tach, fuel pump, MIL, VSS, and OBD/CAN/LAN. And of course I have the fuses to wire up.
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  #435  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:45 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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You are going to have to come wire my projects for me!

Nice work Bandit!

Jaysin
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  #436  
Old 08-20-2013, 03:33 PM
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Huge complement, but you better wait to see if it runs! Wiring gremlins scare the crap out of me - that's why I'm so anal about this. Hopefully it pays off.
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  #437  
Old 11-11-2013, 02:06 AM
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Not much of an update on the car, but I wanted to post some progress photos since I am dying to work on it again. The last month has been a frenzie because we had our second baby and she was born 5 weeks premature. We spent 2-1/2 weeks in the NICU while she suffered from breathing issues, feeding problems, and jaundice, but thankfully she is through it and doing very well now at home. Her name is Sydney and she was welcomed into the world at 5lb 9oz seven years plus a day after my cancer diagnosis - an especially awesome way to celebrate the occasion. My son, Logan, who is now 3 years old, is absolutely in love with the new baby and he is just amazing. I gotta say there has been nothing in my life that's made me as happy as being a dad - love every minute of it.

So back to the topic of this thread, the car. Expectedly it isn't getting much attention. The photos below document the tiny bit of work I did prior to the baby arriving so I am going from memory.

First, here is the new Corvette electronic throttle pedal next to the original Nova mechanical pedal. GM hasn't changed this design in at least 30 years it appears - why mess with a good thing? They did, however omit the chrome trim from the newer pedal and I was thankful to be able to swap it over. It will look right at home next to the original brake pedal.





While the wiring isn't complete, most of the on-engine stuff is done and I wanted to get the exhaust started so I could add the O2s and VSS. I was inspired by Jaysin who assembled the exhaust on his Toyota using mandrel bends. He setup a really nice cutting station for the job, but I don't have a nice vertical bandsaw so I am doing things more crudly. I laid out the angle I wanted on the welding table and marked the tube with a laser in as many places as I could see, from both sides. Then I wrapped tie wraps around it and marked it. Finally I took it to the my crappy Harbor Freight portable bandsaw and did my best to make a straight cut. It turned out pretty good and required very little massaging to make a tight fittup.







Once I had the method down, I assembled the first side of the exhaust from end to end. Remind me to never do this again with a car on jackstands! My back hurts thinking back on this work. The tube is 3" aluminized steel and the mufflers are Dynomax VT. The VT mufflers are a gimic of sorts with a spring-loaded flapper valve that opens at higher flow rates. The idea is to reduce noise and drone at cruising speeds. I was very close to buying Super Turbos for this reason, but didn't want the car to be too quiet so we'll see what happens with these. I am going to miss the old Flowmaster sound, but it's time to try something new.



Things were moving along well until I installed the passenger side headers. I went from the Doug's headers instructions and started torquing the bolts to the specified 35ft-lb when... ruh roh... I stripped the threads! AGH!







That made for a very bad day and set the project back a few weeks while I steamed about it. As it turns out, the header instructions had the wrong torque specified. When I previously installed the driver's side headers months prior I used my "How to rebuild GM LS engines" SA design book and used their specified torque of 15-18ft-lb. I should have known better when I saw the Doug's instructions - 35ft-lb is way too much for this size bolt going into aluminum. Anyway, I called Dougs to express my frustration. They were nice about the situation but there wasn't a lot they could do. In the end they sent me money to have a local shop put Timserts into the threads - of course it wasn't enough to cover my labor to R&R the heads, but it's better than I've gotten from other manufacturers.





Oh and did I mention that I was dumb enough to strip more than one set of threads before I realized what I was doing wrong? Ugh. Well at least they are better than new now.



Sadly that's all the update I have on the car, but I will be making time here and there to work on it soon so stay tuned.
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  #438  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:38 AM
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First off, congrats on the new arrival! I imagine the time in the NICU had to be scary as hell. I'm glad to hear that everyone is home and doing well.

Don't feel too bad about the not catching the wrong torque spec, since it all worked out in the end. It could have been a lot worse if the bolts had broken off in the head instead of stripping the threads out. I recently did the exact same thing with ring gear bolts in a quick change rear end. Turns out there are two different torque specs depending on the style of bolts, and I had the wrong (higher) one.
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  #439  
Old 01-13-2014, 06:08 PM
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Graham - Sorry for the late reply, but thank you for the well wishes. The new baby is almost 3 months now and she's doing much better - basically a normal newborn at this point without any lingering complications. Our 3 year old son is doing very well with the new addition and we're starting to find a rhythm where I can get a little time in the garage again.

My wife bought a set of tall Proform valve covers for me for Christmas. Unfortunately they were too tall and there were clearance issues for the AC and brake booster. I possibly could have worked around those issues, but decided to return them. Here's what they looked like mocked up:



In their place, I bought a set of GM Performance Parts valve covers which are similar in design. They are only a little taller than stock and fit quite well. I'm really happy with how they look and they give about 1/2" of clearance with the AC suitcase.







The only issue with these valve covers is they don't include any baffling for the "clean side" PCV. I plan to run a baffled breather in the oil fill hole connected to the intake tube for filtered, metered air. The "dirty side" of the PCV will draw from an LS3 valley cover which includes baffling and an orifice to meter PCV. There is no valve in this setup. I'm hopeful I can get away with not running a catch can, but I will be monitoring whatever setup I end up with to see if it's needed.

No real progress otherwise - just hoping to get back into things.
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Last edited by TheBandit; 01-13-2014 at 07:04 PM.
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  #440  
Old 01-14-2014, 06:48 PM
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This is looking sick brother! As always, fantastic work and your documentation is nothing short of A+.

I wish you could swing on by and wire mine up. You are doing a slick job. Great work and keep the pics coming.
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