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  #61  
Old 05-22-2010, 11:07 PM
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billyolds727 billyolds727 is offline
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i feel like extending the front wheels out making the wheel base longer and using that axle to do an old monoleaf style set up would be just a bit more work and really make that thing look badass, not that it doesnt already, either way keep up the good work!
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  #62  
Old 05-23-2010, 09:38 PM
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Billyolds727,

thanks for the kind words. I'm leaning towards a much more subtle stretch, more to clear the engine dampener.


In my mind I've got more the picture of a pro touring muscle car crossed with a Jeep, but we'll see how that goes.


Made a little more progress today.....

Got the drivers side upper shock mount off of the frame.




I figured that since I had every thing apart I should check the wheel clearance at full lock.






Actually lots of room, the first thing to hit is the banjo bolt on the calipers.


Also, traced out the lower cut out of what will be the front notches.

There will still be about an 1" of the original frame and with the over lay of the the notch plates should be plenty strong.



Up this week will hopefully be a run to the steel shop to get some material for the notch plates.

More to come.....


-Jeff
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  #63  
Old 05-26-2010, 11:09 AM
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Went yesterday and got the plate for the front notches.

Gotta love rem prices,

.75 cents per pound

42 pounds of plate $31.50, AWSOME!!!


Now just need to find time to start cutting, will probably be Friday.

I'm tentatively planning on being able to drive this sucker by the end of summer.

Lots of work to go.

Stay tuned.

-Jeff
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  #64  
Old 05-28-2010, 09:23 PM
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Made some progress today.


First up was to pull the front wheels and get the frame down to level with the rear to make it easier to layout the notches.



It was surprisingly low compared to where the axle is currently.



It's a good thing it's all getting reworked, cause otherwise it would be
un-driveable.




Up next moving on to the notch plates....


-Jeff
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  #65  
Old 05-28-2010, 09:42 PM
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After getting the first notch plate transferred from the cardboard template, it was time to transfer it to the rest of the plate.



After about 40 minutes with the grinder and jig saw, we had the plates roughed out.



With some help from my brother in-law, we went low buck and clamped all the plates together and smoothed them out with the flapper wheel.




Started mocking the plates onto the frame.





These first few fits were checking clearance around the steering box, motor mounts, and other engine bits.

This gives and idea of the shape of the new notches.



We decided that it would be a good idea to add some holes to increase the area that could be welded.

This involved clamping the plates back together, and breaking out the hole saw.



And finally, all 4 plates mocked into place with the new front crossmember mocked into place.



The crossmember leaves about 5 inches to the motor, which I think should be enough to get the motor out.

If that fails, I'll order up some inline tube clamps and make the crossmember removable.

More to come, I'm hoping to have the notches welded in place and cut out by the end of the long weekend.

-Jeff

Last edited by Blind Studios; 05-29-2010 at 09:14 AM.
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  #66  
Old 05-28-2010, 10:48 PM
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KEGGER1454 KEGGER1454 is offline
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you're doing a great job...keep it up...i can't wait for this to be finished so i can steal your ideas!
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  #67  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:26 AM
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Man never thought of doing that to a jeep, very creative and cool, keep it up!
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  #68  
Old 05-29-2010, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEGGER1454 View Post
you're doing a great job...keep it up...i can't wait for this to be finished so i can steal your ideas!
Have at it Kegger, I think there needs to be more chopped Postal Jeeps driving around.....

....keeps the "normals" guessing. LOL!!

Thanks for the kind words, Jmastersinc

That's seem to be the usual reaction to it, because the my best friend, who I got the Jeep from, told me about the exact same thing yesterday.

He texted me, "It's funny, everyone I show the PJ to, is like what the hell is that?? Then I explain all what's in it and there like, thats AWSOME."


...ah, good times......


....moving on.


Ever wonder what a 40 year old steering box bolt looks like??



Well it turns out they are MESSED UP.

In cleaning off the frame, prepping for welding, I figured that it would be easier and better to have the steering box out of the way.

Silly me.....


All four side bolts on the DS broke. Which is ok, because if they hadn't it wouldn't have been long before they rusted in half.

I managed to get the PS frame brace out with only 1 broken bolt, so it got drilled out and stuck back in place.



From what I understand, these removable cast braces can be moved to either side and with a different steering box change the vehicle from Right hand drive to Left hand drive.

I assume all that would be need is a CJ-5 box for left hand, or a DJ-5 box for right.

Here's a better look at the PS brace.




Well that's all for now until I can go make more noise.


-Jeff
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  #69  
Old 05-30-2010, 12:25 PM
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Continuing on,


Got the DS frame brace/steering box mount drilled out and bolt back onto the frame to provide additional support.




From there, I cleaned off the frame rails with the air grinder, so I had clean metal to weld to.

With the rails cleaned off, it was time to start lining up the plates and clamping them in place for welding.



With the plates clamped in place, I started in on tacking them in place. Beginning with the weld holes in the plates.



I moved around the assemblies to minimize warping. Some of the inside plate stuff was pretty interesting to get to. Welding between the engine and the frame rail.



Just to give you all and idea of how close it is.....



The oil filter has about an 1/8" to the frame rail when it reaches the end of the threads.

...... Uh, I planned that....... sure....... yah, that's what I go with......



A better pic of the one of the plates, I felt good about the penetration that I was getting, both on the plate and the frame.



And a couple of closer pics of the PS inside plate......





And finally, and overall picture of the front end so far. I've got the 4 notch plates tacked/stitched in place, and next up is getting the crossmember tacked, and finishing the inside welds so that I can start plating the tops of the notches.



I've got a little bit of warping to counter act so that the crossmember is fit correctly again.

I'm debating about how to weld the bottom seams of the plates. I have a neighbor with a cherry picker, so the question is; do I jack the PJ way up in the air and weld up,

or do I blow the whole thing apart and flip the frame,

or do I leave the bottom seams for now and wait until I pull the body to do the finish welding on it to pull the motor and flip and weld the seams.

Any thoughts???

In a perfect world I would have the space and time to have just built the frame first and this wouldn't be an issue.

More to come, I'm still hoping to get quite a bit more done before the end of the long weekend.

-Jeff
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  #70  
Old 05-30-2010, 01:30 PM
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dedmetal dedmetal is offline
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Looks good Jeff, I dont know how confident you are welding overhead myself I would get it up where you can lay comforable under it and have at it. You could also just unbolt the axle and get it out if the way.
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  #71  
Old 05-31-2010, 04:15 PM
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Well turns out you were right Dedmetal,


Brother in-law and I pulled the front end, jacked up the frame as high as possible and it made for a bit of an angle, so that the weld wasn't perfectly horizontal.

I managed to get some decent looking welds, and good penetration.



It's still coming apart, in the course of modifying it.




Only welded for an hour or so, managed to get the bottom side welds done and weld the seams where the notch plates meet the bumper brackets and frame braces.




More to come, it's going slower than I had hoped but sill moving in the right direction.


-Jeff
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  #72  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:03 AM
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Still been working on welding up the front notches.

Haven't been getting alot of time but still moving along.



Have been trimming and fitting the notch plates as I go, they seem to be fitting well.



Also, went and picked up a full set of YJ leafs last night. I was planning on just running them normal, but now I've got a couple of other ideas.

teaser pic....




More to come soon, I want to get some opinions on my other plans before I commit to them.

-Jeff
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  #73  
Old 06-04-2010, 08:35 PM
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So, I've been busy welding and tearing apart spring packs.

Starting with the springs packs.

I got one of the front 5 leaf packs broke apart, cleaned, and reassembled.

Unfortunately, the front main leafs have a little more thickness than the rears.

A little, side by side.....



Definitely a lot lower, but with the extra thickness they are not as compliant. I think that I'm going to have to blow the pack back apart and run the main leafs to a spring shop and have them de-arched.


But I've got to finish the notches before I worry too much about the new leafs.

So, It was back to welding.

I finished up all of the welding for the side plates and was able to start on the cap plate on the PS.

Pretty much, just formed the 1/8" ribbon over the top of the notch side plates. Did a little tack, tack....



At this point I had the top and back tacked down, and had welded the "speed holes"

Didn't really get a lot of pics while I was working, but did get the PS top plate fully welded.





A little overall view.....



So, I'm still making progress.

Hopefully will get the DS top plate done tomorrow, and then will be ready to actually cut out the notches.

- Jeff
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  #74  
Old 06-04-2010, 09:46 PM
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looking good! we all can't wait to seehow this turns out :)
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  #75  
Old 06-07-2010, 11:11 AM
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Finished up the DS (that would be right side) notch top plate, yesterday.





Came out good, there is less stuff on this side of the motor. (no oil filter, or fuel pump)

So now I have both notches done from the sides up.



I ran out of cut off wheels for the grinder, so I wasn't able to start cutting out the notches themselves.

I did get the jack stands relocated from the front bumper to the frame behind the motor mounts, to take any weight off of the front section of the frame.


Still up to do, is fit and weld in the new front crossmember.

Also, I should be dropping the new main leafs off at a local spring shop this week to get them dearched, and hopefully, I'll also be able to pick up some new spring clamps at the same time.



Hoping to have the new front end set up under the PJ in less than 2 weeks.

Thanks everyone for checking it out.

I appreciate the motivation and support.


-Jeff

Last edited by Blind Studios; 06-07-2010 at 11:12 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #76  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:08 AM
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tedjeep73 tedjeep73 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyolds727 View Post
i feel like extending the front wheels out making the wheel base longer and using that axle to do an old monoleaf style set up would be just a bit more work and really make that thing look badass, not that it doesnt already, either way keep up the good work!
I found this site after starting my own rat rod. We are planning to do a spring behind setup on my Dj5. My front axle has square tubing. Are you going to change the back axle? This is a cool project and I have learned a lot from this posting. thank you for putting it out.

Last edited by tedjeep73; 06-08-2010 at 12:27 AM.
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  #77  
Old 06-08-2010, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedjeep73 View Post
I found this site after starting my own rat rod. We are planning to do a spring behind setup on my Dj5. My front axle has square tubing. Are you going to change the back axle? This is a cool project and I have learned a lot from this posting. thank you for putting it out.
Hi tedjeep,

Sounds like a cool project. What year is your DJ??

The stock axle in mine is a Dana 44 with the factory limited slip, so I didn't see much reason to mess with it.

It is a bit on the narrow side as far as getting the wheels out to the flares. I could use like another 4" or so of axle width.

Who knows, maybe if the 44 doesn't hold up I'll look into it, but currently no plans.

The square tube would be easier to work with. I've still got to do a relief of some sort in the middle of the axle tube to miss the engine dampner.

Thanks for checking out the build.


-Jeff
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  #78  
Old 06-08-2010, 11:43 AM
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Mine is a 1973 and has a Dana 41. The frame is boxed really well. The good thing about a 73 is it is old enough that I don't have to worry that much about emissions and that sort of stuff. I plan on starting by going cheap with a $100 engine, TH350, and probably a FORD rear end. I drew mine up on CAD and have made changes from four wheel drive to just rat rodding it to keep it simple. I appreciatre your pictures, esspecially the master cylinder because mine did not have one and I have been trying to figure out how it goes. I am going to ditch the stock doors and make my own. I have not decided to go with a Flow Jet and try to give it a CJ type opening or make suicide doors to go with the suicide front end. I like the Dj5 because they are cheap and nobody is going to hassle me as to the "purity" of the build because nobody except we eccentics cares about delivery jeeps. For paint I am going with a gallon of Rustolium Flat black for $26. I want a clean look but no rust. I hope I can make mine look as good as yours. Can't wait to see yours finished. I hope to have mine done by September to use as an example of Recycling for my Technology Education students come fall. I want mine to be a daily driver. Chat at ya' later, I need to back to sweatin', bustin' knuckles and burnin' toes.
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  #79  
Old 06-08-2010, 01:14 PM
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Yah, the cheap buy in and no emissions are both huge benifits.

I have in the past run into alot of, " you gonna make it a rock crawler??"

Just doesn't make any sense.

Hot rodding them on the other hand.....

A strong frame, tons of room for engine/trans, and cheap buy in...

GOLD!!


I've kicked around the door problem quite a bit.

I ended up chopping down the stock doors and still have them sitting in a corner. They still fit the door tracks and slide fine, just not really easy to use with the flares on the rear.

I keep thinking that I'd like to skin the door openings to mimic the Cj-5 openings. The problem I keep running into is room to get in and out. I'm fairly tall and with the PJ getting lower, all of the current extra door opening is helpful.

I think that if you copied the opening dimensions of either a CJ-5, or CJ-7 it would be pretty easy to hang soft doors off the front flange.

But mine is leaning away from DD status.

Maybe the next DJ will have all the creature comforts.....


-Jeff
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  #80  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:23 PM
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CJ7 doors are too big unless you cut them down. I understand the too tall thing. I am 5'11" and my son is 6'3". when I get that far I will decide what to do. I'll probably use 3/4" square tubing and some sheet metal, just to keep unwanted things from jumping or flying in. the old ones are just too heavy and too ugly for me.
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