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  #61  
Old 03-04-2014, 06:43 PM
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Cool.

I noticed in your photos your headers have very long primary tubes and almost no collector length. I know almost nothing about this, but check out this thread, post 26 with some interesting articles to read on collector length: http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=9358
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  #62  
Old 03-05-2014, 08:20 AM
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Which part of that article is the info located? I am not likely keeping these as I want a slightly more period look so I will more than likely be making some lake style headers. I got the ones on there for $125 so I'm not out much. I see this sort of thing all of the time so I am not thinking it will make THAT much difference. After all, this is a bone stock tbi SBC that is not belching out copious hp to begin with. I just want it to run well and be reliable.
I do want to know where the specific info in the article is though. I'm on the run and just poking in here between work.
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  #63  
Old 03-05-2014, 04:57 PM
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Here is the relevant section of Vizard's article:

Quote:
Secondaries -- Diameters and Lengths
Well, so much for primary pipe dimensions and their effect on output. Let us now consider the collector/secondary pipe dimensions and configurations. The first point to make here is that the secondary diameter is as critical as the primary. A good starting point for the collector/secondary pipe size of a simple 4-into-1 header is to multiple the primary diameter by 1.75. Fortunately, the collector can be changed relatively easily and it is often best optimized at the track rather than the dyno.

As for the secondary length-that is from about the middle of the collector to the end of the secondary (or the first large change in cross-sectional area), we find a great deal more sensitivity than is seen with the primary. Ironically, few racers pay heed to collector length even though it is easy to adjust. In practice, collector length and diameter can have more effect on the power curve than the primary length. A basic rule on collectors is that shorter, larger diameters favor top end while longer, smaller diameters favor the low end. Except for the most highly developed engines, many collectors I see at the track are too large in diameter and either too short, or of excessive length. For a motor peaking at around 6,000-8,500 rpm, a collector length of 10-20 inches is effective.

Getting secondary lengths nearer optimal can be worth a sizable amount of extra power as Fig. 5 shows. If you want to bump up torque at the point a stock converter starts to hook up the engine, you may want a secondary as long as 50 inches but something between about 10 and 24 is more normal. The shorter of these two lengths would be appropriate for an engine peaking at about 8,500 rpm whereas the longer length would be best for an engine that peaked at about 4,800-5,000 rpm.
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  #64  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:44 PM
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Well I'm phucked then. While I can dig on high performance engines all day long, I want the look as much as anything. Kinda poser but I am nowhere close to a position for dialing in the frankenbeast to achieve quarter mile run times;-) When I get headaches and tire from the brain-numbing exhaust sound, I may go back and look at this. For now, it's trial and error. Hope it starts when I push the button:-0
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  #65  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:50 PM
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I'm sure it'll run just fine. Maybe after its up and running you can use an exhaust clamp to add a length to the collectors and see if you notice a difference.
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  #66  
Old 03-06-2014, 12:37 AM
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I'm not really sure what " phucked " means... I did search goggle but came up some porn site... maybe you spelt it wrong. It behooves me I can't find that part you speak of.....

Any help would be awesome, not to mention a great project...


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  #67  
Old 03-06-2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrogDog View Post
I'm not really sure what " phucked " means... I did search goggle but came up some porn site... maybe you spelt it wrong. It :
I think we solved the issue you were having in the other thread about pop ups or messaging ;-)
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  #68  
Old 04-21-2014, 03:14 PM
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Been awhile since I was able to play with this. Got back up there and got the steering squared away. I made the column and finally tig'd the collar to the shaft and then could just bolt the steering wheel to the collar.

The bracket holding the column in place is 1/2" CR. Machined the 1.75" bore and then drilled/tapped for 1/4"-20 socket cap screws. Split it and that allows the bracket to sandwich the column.

New Vintiques with Coker Firestone bias ply tires. 15x5 front and 16x6 rear. Overall tire height is 26" front and 30" rear based on approximate measurements.

Also mocked the radiator at the height I want. Next I will hard mount it and then plumb the fuel tank.

Getting there.........
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  #69  
Old 04-21-2014, 03:33 PM
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Wow that is one thick steering column support. Why so thick?
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  #70  
Old 04-21-2014, 03:43 PM
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The new wheels and tires are a big improvement over the old ones! The overall stance and proportions look good, too.
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  #71  
Old 04-21-2014, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
Wow that is one thick steering column support. Why so thick?
So I can bolt/un-bolt it and drop the column. You can kinda see the hole coming up from the "bottom" of the bracket. The bracket is "split" and the bottom comes off. Think of a Connecting rod.

The wheels that were on it prior were only there for me to roll it around. Hell, none of the wheels or tires for that matter matched but it made moving it around the shop a bit easier. Big reason was when I would lift the body off with the gantry, it was easier to roll the chassis than it was the entire gantry with body ;-)

This car is a L O N G way from completion. It will take years to get it to where I want it. I will be palnning on driving it long before it is completed though. Paint and REAL body work are a ways off. At this point I just want to get it running and road worthy and have a little fun scooting around town. Like all things, there are certainly things I would have done differently in retrospect. This was my first rod build. If I ever do another one, I will have a different approach.

I like the stance with this one and I have always liked the Sedan and Coupe styles.
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  #72  
Old 04-22-2014, 12:13 AM
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If you ever decide to sell this, I will come up with the cash.
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  #73  
Old 04-22-2014, 10:05 AM
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Thanks Chocflip! Everything is for sale for the right price ! Just not this one for now ;-)

As I mentioned above, if I could do this over again, I would do some things different. One thing is the suspension I kept in the rear. I should have scrapped the 4-link design tht was there and done it differently so I didn't lose quite as much head clearence. Being the midget I am at 5'8", I can fit just fine in there but add any more stature and you will see sunlight.

I will be using bomber style seats affixed directly to the floor boards, essentially, so that I don't lose anymore headroom. had I used a different 4 link design I would have been able to keep 4" of additional headroom.

But...like I said, this was my first build. I never did any real research and simply thought I knew what I was doing. Add to that a bad case of A.D.D. and several 50% saturdays due to a hangover and you get a severely long and drawn out project ;-)

I would also NOT do a TBI set up simply because I want this to be as bare bones as possible. I do like the idea of reliability but all of the wiring and computer are just not needed IMO.
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  #74  
Old 04-22-2014, 12:51 PM
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Then go propane and high-compression
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  #75  
Old 04-22-2014, 04:48 PM
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I'm actually curious to see how the bone stock SBC 350tbi performs with the light weight of the vehicle. I can easily push the thing around with no effort. Granted I am not looking at big horsepower, the power to weight ratio makes me think I may not need too much more. Then again, no one N E E D S massive horsepower but it sure is nice ;-)
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  #76  
Old 04-22-2014, 05:17 PM
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Mmm I dunno. Our transport semi is a 750+ horse twin turbo, and I'd say he needs it.
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  #77  
Old 04-22-2014, 05:44 PM
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The tires can only support so much horsepower, but it sure is nice to have excess. Fortunately it's easy to swap parts after it's running; don't catch that bug until it's a driver.
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  #78  
Old 04-23-2014, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
The tires can only support so much horsepower, but it sure is nice to have excess. Fortunately it's easy to swap parts after it's running; don't catch that bug until it's a driver.
Roger that
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  #79  
Old 10-13-2014, 11:45 AM
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Well, it's been awhile and I haven't posted or done much with my son's soccer taking up most of my spare time (no complaints) so when I had the opportunity to make some headway, I jumped on it.

Below are the only two pics I have of the Model A as of Sunday. I was able to relocate the outlet tube on the radiatior and weld it back so as to avoid interfence. I also machined a new filler neck for the gas tank and a cap to go with it. Plumbed all lines (brakes, fuel, radiatior, trans, etc).

I basically need my buddy who's an EE to do my wiring for the TBI 350 and it should hopefully run!
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  #80  
Old 10-14-2014, 06:32 PM
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Got any shots of your plumbing? What kind of fuel and tranny lines did you use? What kind of fuel pressure regulator?

I have a love-hate relationship with plumbing. I find it gratifying when I can come up with a clean setup, but sometimes I really struggle with routing, fittings, and attachments. There's a mistake section on the Nova's fuel line where I added a jog due to a misplaced bend; nobody will ever see it but me, yet it keeps me up at night lol.

Wish I could help you on the wiring.

Oh and the car looks bad ass!
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