Project 1 Ton 4Runner

[smashmetal]

Originally Posted by balterbuilt

photobucket is sweet.

Yes it is!

Im still figuring it out but the album can be found here now!

http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/c...ner/?start=all

[smashmetal]

Allright I got some pic's in the gallery! And I figured out how to add pic's FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is the Dana 300, with the 4:1's installed, a JB Conversion 32 spline out put and JB manufacturing stainless twin stick shifters

[smashmetal]

[smashmetal]

Started working on the lower shock mounts, widdled them down from 2x6x1/4 wall rectangle tubing that had been laying around forever. The inside dimensions are perfect for shock eyes.

Here is a mock up, I got a great deal on some Trail Gear 12" hoops but I will diffinetly need to modify.

[Captainfab]

You've been adding some sweet parts Smash!....this project is coming along nicely.

[smashmetal]

For those of you just tuning in to the build I had lost all the pic's in my gallery so here is a quick update.
4 linked rear, with 14bolt and disk brakes

Beefed up diff cover

a bit of rear end gusseting



things to finish- shock mounting, running brake lines and drive lines!

[smashmetal]

Trail Gear 12" shock hoops don't look like the'll work very well with 14" travel Bilstiens. So I added 3"s of length by sleeving some 1.75" DOM over the 1.5" shock hoop and added some flared hole gussets!

[TitanFab]

Nice Smash like the work, gives me some ideas

[smashmetal]

And here is the finished product, as far as the front shock hoops go anyway. I had to add just one more flared hole die just to make it feel complete!




You can also see I picked my self up a set of H2 wheels! These are going to be my street wheels. im going to stick with some 35's to keep the law off of me as much as I can while im driving it on the road.

Here is a H2 wheel tech form that I started if any one is intrested, lots of pic's and clearance diminsions
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ed=1#post27533

[liketofab]

Hi Smash,
Nice work as usual !
Joe

[smashmetal]

Originally Posted by liketofab

Hi Smash,
Nice work as usual !
Joe

Hello Joe! Thanks, Have ya got your self a project yet?

Im sure ill have plenty of bugs to work out of my project, I just noticed today that I put my shocks a little to far outboard on the front axle. If it ever reaches full compression my shock will smash it's self on my upper Lft steering arm. I guess ill have to add bump stops a little higher to the priority list.

[smashmetal]

Finally!...................................
Rear shocks are mounted, I was having quit the delema trying to find a good spot to mount them. I kinda over looked shocks cause I was to excited putting together a linked suspension.
Using 1.5" tubing I made a three upper crossmember to bolt my shocks to. I made 2 bends (roughly 65 degrees)and a short section of 1.75" to sleeve to to bends together. Im not quit a tube bending pro to make this specific peice land where it needs too. I then welded a 3/4X10 nut into both ends, this way I can bolt this assembly in rather than fighting the tight space to weld everything.

Look to the lower Rt side of the pic, you'll be able to see how I used the factory upper shock mount as a mounting location. I used 2ea 3/4x10 bolts, the exsisting hole just need to be reamed a small amount to make everything work.

[smashmetal]

Brakes and drive lines, pretty much the only things holding me up from hitting the trail. I called up Jesse at High Angle drive line the other day to get a quote on some new shafts. Im looking at about $1500 to get what I need, so with that said I guess Ill button up some of the small stuff before dumping the big bucks.
I finally got around to getting a master cylinder on, remanufactured unit from a 3/4 chevy 4x4

I spent more money in fuel driving around getting the fittings I needed to get this thing together. The biggest paint was finding the Aft fittings for the mastercylinder.
I also purchased an ajustable WilWood Proportioning Valve too help ballance out the rear disks. I finally relized that my runner has ABS so we'll see how all this works out cause I havent removed any of it.
Some good yota brake info for any one who needs it.http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...mastercylinder

[smashmetal]

Some double flare tech to put out there, I had to make new brake lines that where metric on one end and standard on the other. Cause none of the parts stores around here for some reason dont sell just fittings. I just purchased preflared 12" sections 2ea metric and 2ea standard. Make sure the fittings ar in place before flaring!

Then I cut off a flare on 1 end from the metric on and 1 from the standard. place the tube in the clamping dies of the double flare kit,Using the preset die set the tube past like so.

tighten everything up set the preset die in place and tighten untill contact to the clamp base is made.


Remove the preset die, things should look kinda like this.

place the flaring tool back onto the dies and tighen untill the final portion of the flare is made.

and you should end up with something like this.

[smashmetal]

A buddy of mine gave me some drive shafts out of a chevy crew cab pick up a while back. I kinda tossed them to the back of garage and forgot about them untill now. The last straw was having to push the 4runner up on the trailer and around the drive way, Im some times up for a work out but this was getting ridiculous. Time to make a temp shaft!
So I did some research cause I new I would need a 1310 to 1350 convesion U-joint to get everything to bolt up. this would be the only part I would have to spend money on. I spent $32 at Napa.

Here are some more part #'s for those who need conversion joints.

1310 to 1350 conversion joints
Dana Spicer/ 5-460X
neapco/ 3-3140
Napa/ 348
Advanced Auto Parts/ 21153 or 1-0134

1310 to 1330 conversion joints
Dana Spicer/ 5-134X
Advanced Auto Parts/ 1-0134

1330 to 1350 conversion joints
Napa/ 447

[smashmetal]

here is the shaft I started out with.

I seperated the parts I needed by removing a couple of U-joints, the goofy aluminium peice below the splines is where a carrier bering use to be

Using my trusty grinder and some presionsion cutting I was able remove the end of the shaft, I would be later removing the excise material from this end

[smashmetal]

I picked up this conversion 1310 to 1350 U-joint from Napa part # 348. Notice the cap diffrence, this way I will be able to use the excisting drive shaft but be able to bolt it up to the 1310 yoke on the back of the transfer case.

Out with the old!

This is the reason this is a temp shaft, I had to clearance the yokes to gain enough clearance for the angle the shaft will be resting at. Notice the freshly ground area's.

[smashmetal]

After removing about 6"s of material I screwed some casters to the trusty work bench to square things up a bit. This is the best I could come up with and the most work I wanted to put into making this thing some what square.

I dont have the right measuring tools so I just used on of my tubing dies and the degress pointer to get it close enough!

And the finished product! It know moves under it's own power!


I shot my self in the foot when i set up my rear end, I did have the pinion pointing right at the transfer case when I fabed all the links and spring pads up. But that was before I added a doubler, I will be ordering a 1410 joint when I order a more perminent shaft.

[smashmetal]

Had I known that Jesse at High Angle drive line makes flanges to adapt toyota style shafts to GM 14 bolts and dana 60's I would have probably gone this rout instead, Ooo well!
http://www.highangledriveline.com/toy_flange.html

Any way I came across this, I thought it was usefull so Ill pass it on.

Gear Ratio Caculator, it has quit abit of info allready pluged into it.
http://www.highangledriveline.com/toy_flange.html

[KEGGER1454]

LOOKIN GOOD