Project 1 Ton 4Runner - Page 11

smashmetal · #**201** 04-12-2008, 10:33 PM

Ok here is the break down of all my steering components.

Power steering pump/ Autozone part #6379= $78.10

Zoops Manuf. Pully from Summit/ SUM-340204= $35.95
#6 to 16mmx1.5 O-ring fitting from Summit/ RUS-648060= $7.69
Total After shipping $53.39

Had a local hose shop rework the stock steering hoses/ $38

smashmetal · #**202** 04-12-2008, 10:43 PM

Ok added all up im into a Saginaw style pump just like the high priced units from PSC or trail gear for a total of $169.49.

Now keep in mind I dident throw in the price of any hardwear cause I had it laying around in my nut and bolt collection or reused the existing hardwear

here is what I did to gain a bit more pressure from the pump. I took the same steps I did a few years back when I did my blazer.

remove the pressure side port of the pump.

Drill it up to a 5/32

Im not sure why but stretch the the spring to 2"

I can't explain the science on this one either but I did it on my last pump and it worked well so I figured it wouldent hurt.

Clean all the parts and put it back together!

smashmetal · #**203** 04-12-2008, 10:57 PM

Here are a few tight spots to look out for!

The pressure side line is real close to the battery, I could probably gain a bit more clearance if I fine tuned the mounting bracket a bit more. I keept it this way cause I wanted to still be able to run the stock size power steering belt.

Had to use a thick washer here to insure the pully alignment was good. I reused the factory mounting bolt here, it wouldent hurt to use a 1/4-1/2 longer bolt, Im just staying cheap.

3/16 flat plate steel was used to make all the bracketry. The lower ajustment mount had a gap of 3/16, so I made a washer to take up the space and left it long so I could get it in and out easly. I reused the bolt for this as well, this one was the right size

smashmetal · #**204** 04-12-2008, 11:07 PM

And here is what it looks like mounted up!

NOTE! the upper return tube, the one with the blue cap on it in the pic! It will turn in it's hole to accomidate mounting positions.

Also notice how the pully is mounted backward's(shinny side in), had to do this for proper belt alignment.

smashmetal · #**205** 04-13-2008, 10:23 PM

Busy weekend! Finally got around to moving the steering box foward, kinda had too to make all my highsteer stuff work. The steering box plates I got from Balistic Fab, there not excactly made to fit my frame but there easy enought to make work. Wouldent be right if I dident add some flared holes to it!

I had to clearance the frame a bit on the aft bottom side of the plates so the castle nut on the tie rod would clear.

Top view looking down.

smashmetal · #**206** 04-13-2008, 10:34 PM

I also ported the steering box before I reinstalled it the frame, got my info here.

http://www.wildyoats.com/
Go to the TECH section, it's a pretty good artical.

Any way I had one problem, My 93 steering box had a 10mm alen plug on the top side that requires removal during tear down. The earler steering boxes apperantly don't have it. Mine had the a center punch mark between the plug and the steering box housing. The kind of thing that is done that keeps fastners locked into position. Well i had a hellava time getting that thing out! by the time it was all said and done there was a 1/4 hole throught the middle of the plug for a #3 easy out to go into. I welded a bolt back into it's place to seal the hole back up and make replacement easer.
here is the aftermath I was to pissed to take pic's during the process.

smashmetal · #**207** 04-13-2008, 10:37 PM

Here is the box all mounted up and a few pics of where I did a quick clearance to the core support and inner fenderwell for fitment.

you can see a bit better on the frame clearancing for the tie rod castle nut on the pitman arm

smashmetal · #**208** 04-15-2008, 06:25 PM

Onto the power steering pump resivor! Trying to stay within a small budget I had planned to make my stock toyota steering pump resivor work. Being that it was plastic I was pretty limited on what I could do with it. Luck for me I just happen to have a buddy that just pulled the steering pump off his 88 V6 4runner. For some reason it had a steel resivor on the top of it, being a good guy he let me have it! After measuring the port in the bottom of the resivor I ended up purchasing a heater hose fitting from Napa, Part # 660-1732 $5.00 and here is what I ended up with.

smashmetal · #**209** 04-15-2008, 06:29 PM

Next was to make the heate hose fitting work, a 9/16 drill bit did the trick. Made a very nice fit after it was drilled.

Also fabbed up a quick mounting bracket and bogger welded the fitting on.

Thats my $5 resivor, we'll see how long it gets me by!

smashmetal · #**210** 04-15-2008, 06:34 PM

Some of you that try this will discover that there are 2ea vacum lines going to the stock toyota pump. I simpley just took one line off and routed the other one to it. That should cure the vacum leak and keep the idel down.

routed back to the other line closing the loop.

Picked up these today too, now I should be able to finish plumbing my power steering resivor and start my high steer tie rod and hydro assist mounts!

Hoses, $47.23

smashmetal · #**211** 04-30-2008, 04:32 AM

I ended up with to many head aches with the high steer and ram mounting. Enought that I ended up scrapping my first idea and tie rod, things ended up being a bit tighter than I had intisapaited.

First set up started with some 1.5"x.120 wall tubing that I welded the 7/8 x 18 tube inserts into for the tie rod. A tube clamp would be use for the mounting of the hydraulic assist that way I would have some ajustability.
here where the parts.

I ended up coming up with this for the tube clamp, figured it would be a bit tighter to the tie rod for better clearancing.

I felt 1.5"x.120 wall tubing wasent really thick enought to use as a tie rod. If I where to sleeve it with some 1.75"x.120 tubing I could diffinetly beef it up but would not be able to use my neat tube clamp I just spent to much time working on. In the end I threw all of it in the corner and started over.

smashmetal · #**212** 04-30-2008, 04:43 AM

Already having some 1.75"x.375 wall tubing laying in tha garage I ended up getting 2 new tube inserts, 7/8x18 with a 1" inside tube diameter. I also picked up some step down misalignment spacersfor the hydro assist ram. 5/8's to 1/2", this way I would now for certian that there would be no binding in the system.

Any way here is what I came up with, here is the new tie rod.

smashmetal · #**213** 04-30-2008, 04:50 AM

Had to do a little work to the diff cover for my ram mounting. I dident think it was to bad considering it was put together from left over peices that was from all the other stuff I had done.

smashmetal · #**214** 04-30-2008, 04:55 AM

I was trying to make it match the rear diff cove a bit.

smashmetal · #**215** 04-30-2008, 05:06 AM

Im can almost say Im done with the steering finally! but Im currently having a hell-of-a-time tying to get it bleed out. I got the hydro lines crossed on the first test so it wouldent steer. Got them swapped and it finally moved. I only have a few hours after work to tinker with it but im going on day 3 and all the steering back and forth really isent doing much. I do have the front end jacked with tires off the ground and have been cracking the lines but that just seams to make more of a mess than progress.

any idea's!

EDIT..........I just found this so I guess I start here next. Howe's power steering bleeding instructions

http://www.howeperformance.com/pdfs/bleed-instr.pdf

Captainfab · #**216** 04-30-2008, 04:42 PM

Lookin good as always Smash

I've been looking at getting the parts I need for my crossover/high steer and I have a couple of questions. After you welded the threaded tube inserts did you need to run a tap thru them? Did you plug weld them as well as on the end? I've looked at the same inserts as you used, that fit a 1" ID tube. It would seem to me that with a 7/8" thread thru the 1" OD of the adapter and if you were to plug weld it there would likely be some distortion in the threads.

smashmetal · #**217** 05-02-2008, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Lookin good as always Smash

I've been looking at getting the parts I need for my crossover/high steer and I have a couple of questions. After you welded the threaded tube inserts did you need to run a tap thru them? Did you plug weld them as well as on the end? I've looked at the same inserts as you used, that fit a 1" ID tube. It would seem to me that with a 7/8" thread thru the 1" OD of the adapter and if you were to plug weld it there would likely be some distortion in the threads.

Your right about the distortion, I dident take any pic's of the tube insert it's self but the 1" insert is rather thin on the end where it go's into the tube. I dident drill and plug weld mine, Plug welding through 3/8's material and my welder would require a bigger hole than I would care to drill in the tube and like you mentioned above there would be distortion to the insert for sure. On the other hand there is quit a bevel built into the insert. I ended up welding 2 passes to to fill the gap between the insert and tubing, the last pass was about 3/8's to 1/2 wide so there is plenty of opportunity to burn a good weld in them.
Suprisingly enough There was no need to run a tap back down the threads after welding, so there was little to no distortion that took place on the threads.

Now the 1.25" tube insert on the other hand fo 1.5x.120 can still be plug welded easly enought with out distorting the threads. I still have the one I made I had planned on sleeving it with a peice of 1.75x.120 for a total 1/4 thickness. I dident use this one cause Im worse than a woman in a shoe store when it comes to making my mind up about fabing stuff, always changing my mind

Captainfab · #**218** 05-03-2008, 12:19 AM

Yeah...I was thinking that the inserts for 1.250 ID tube would be the better way to go and put them in some say 1.625 x .187 wall or 1.750 x .250 wall tube. Did you get your inserts from Ballistic?

smashmetal · #**219** 05-03-2008, 06:45 PM

Yes the inserts from Ballistic Fab. I keep getting sent down to Tucson Az. for work so I make it a point to stop over. I always walk out of there purchasing parts, something about see the parts in person sure makes it easer to want stuff!

smashmetal · #**220** 05-06-2008, 10:56 PM

It took me a couple of days trying to bleed the hydro assist and spilling 2 quarts of power steering fluid on the drive way for me to realize, that my $5 resivore may be a bit to small. I may have a bad steering or pump, im not sure yet, just when I think I have it I take it off the jacks and I still have to muscle the hell out of it to turn it. There is a bit of assist help when im completing the turn to the right.
So I figured id start with a cooler first, this should help add some much needed fluid to the system. Napa had them in stock so I picked up,
Part # 1-4822 for $36.27

I like that all the mounting hard wear came with it.

Making sure to keep it below the resivor I chose a spot on the inside upper side of the radiator. There is about 2"s of space between the fan and the radiator so clearance was not an issue. I would have chossen the front but the A/C condenser and fan are there and Id like to keep that for when it gets warm.

This is where I clearanced the shroud so the hydo return lines have a place to go.

Here is how the lines are ran out of the cooler into the system, It looks closer than it is in the pic but the fan is away from them a bit. I wraped the lines in that plastic wire wrap to keep them from chaffing any thing, the upper line is zip tied to the A/C hose to keep it up and away from the power steering pully. The lower one is short enough that stays in place by it's self real well.

Now back to bleeding the system! hope this works this time.............