Project 1 Ton 4Runner

[smashmetal]

Powerlinek9: Glad you mentioned the hight issue! I dident even think about that. Im diffinetly trying to keep things low in the frame.

Both examples you fellas have shown seam to be the most popular among many engine swaps I've seen. It seams that Im being a bit lazy wanting to just purchase the prefabed stuff but I have found lately that it's cheaper in the long run. Freaking fuel prices have the cost of materials through the roof right now.

Just mentioning the hight issue alone though has allready swayed my decision to just build my own.

[Powerlinek9]

[smashmetal]

Cool, with plenty of ideas of my own for some flared holes! I just might be able to ditch the body lift too, but we'll see.

One thing I don't see many people doing is adding a crossmember under the engine. Id feel better with one there, why are they being left out?

Any more idea's and pic's welcome lets see'um!

[kkuenemann]

I would guess that leaving the crossmember out from under the engine, you could get the oil pan off with out any hassle should the need arise....

BTW Your project is looking good..!!

[Powerlinek9]

with a GM there is no cross member in the very front like on a toyota. so adding a cross member under the engine on your toy would be twice of what a GM has. also... gm had a "C" channel fram and toyota has a fully boxed/internally gusseted frame. don't sweat it man. only thing i would warn you about is dropping your motor too low. and having issues with steering. hahaha

[smashmetal]

Making notes! Get it low, watch for steering clearances and pay attention to exhaust manifold clearances too.
To those who have done this thanks fro the 2 cents, keeps me from making the same mistakes. As well a better resale on the rig too if i ever sell it, hehehe

[Powerlinek9]

sure thing. ask me anything. i may or may not know the answer but i'll at least steer you into the right direction... or off a cliff if you get it on film. :)
you can see my steering issue in the pics. the only way you can get the same problem that i have is to cut your firewall out and slide your motor back behind the draglink then down next to it. my motor is stupid low but it make high speed a lot more fun

[smashmetal]

Well im no where near my project but that dosent stop me from keeping my project in foward motion. Work has brought me to Tucson Az, so I had to head over to Balistic Fab and pick up a few more parts. As you may have read in a couple of post back I need to take care of my steering issue's. I've decided to remount the power steering box foward on the frame so I can accomidate high steer.
I have some toyota steering box plates, some 7/8-18 tube inserts (for new tie rod), 1.5" tube clamp (for hydro assist ram mount), and a winch plate. I know I need to get the winch mounted soon but Im still deciding how I want things to look. I thought a good starting point was to get the plate mounted up and build from there.

I also picked up some 1.5" tube flanges so I can make a cross bar between my front shock hoops that will go over the engine.


All pic's taken on the hotel coffee table!

[smashmetal]

After 70 days in Tucson Im finally back home, I was greated by family, the dog and a whole slew of new parts! I should be busy for a little while.

4x innovations toyota T-case mount-$87


Some new TRE's and weld in bungs from balistic fab, for the steering-$101.57


PSC steering ram 1.75" x 8" stroke-$193.60

[smashmetal]

Detroit locker for the rear GM 14 bolt FF-$385


Solid Ind. Gm 14 bolt FF diff cover and it came with everything pictured-$89
This thing is beef!

[smashmetal]

Off road design Lft side Hi-steer arm and new studs-$190




Im going to attempt high steer this thing, I ordered this arm while I was gone. Now that im home with my rig again It looks like ill have some clearance issues with the 3.0's oil pan.

[smashmetal]

Remove diff cover, and axle shafts.




Remove the keppers on the carrier and make alignment marks for reinstall.

[smashmetal]

Remove the carrier caps and insure wich side they came off. back this threaded portion up to relese the carrier from the housing. I wrote a number on the housing indicating how many turns I made on it.




remove the bolts that hold the carrier and ring gear together. Pull the 2 halfs apart to expose the spider gears.

[smashmetal]

Pull the spider gears, drop the detroit in place and make sure to don't remove the wing nut intill everything is put back together.



I found what looks like alingment arrows inside the carrier so I placed it back together this way. I really have no idea if thats what there for!





Now just put everything back together!

[balterbuilt]

looks like fun to me bro!

[smashmetal]

I got around to getting the 4xinovations T-case mount in, nice peice! Now there is no question that it will clear a toyota to dana 300 double.

[KEGGER1454]

skip the detroit and turn this

into this....

[smashmetal]

Wholy S*&T man! That had to be a Ridicules amount of welding, also looks clean enough to have been in the lathe after words. Either way very cool!

I did the old lincoln locker in my last rig. although I never had a problem with it I went with a detroit this time cause I wanted it to be a tiny bit more street friendly.

[smashmetal]

I just thought this would be intreresting, I had to get a side by side comparo of a GM 14 bolt full floater and dana 60 35 spline shaft.

Top 14 bolt, bottom dana 60

Lft 14 bolt, Rt dana 60

[smashmetal]

Im getting around to adding a Saginaw power steering pump to the toyota 3.0! Ill get details in this set up a little later but ill throw up some teaser pick to prove this isent a dead thread.

here is the pump.


Took this

and peiced this together,