'70 Nova LSX swap LY6/TH400

[fabcam]

Looks great Clint!!!

[TheBandit]

Thanks guys. Probably wont be too much fabrication in this thread, but there will be some LSX tech for sure.

[TheBandit]

I have been obsessing a little too much on the accessory system lately. Here is the most recent idea I'm kicking around for putting the alternator on the passenger side above the waterpump. The "bracket" in the pictures is just a piece of cardstock that I printed from a Solidworks drawing on my printer and cut out with scissors for mockup (hope this is a feature that will be included in BT Plate!). I would run a turnbuckle between the driver's side hole on the alternator and the hole below it on the bracket to adjust tension. After making the mockup, I realized the hole for the turnbuckle should be lower and not as far from the mounting holes. Of course there would also be spacers between the alternator and the cylinder head.





If I decide to go this route, I would put the a/c compressor in the stock LY6 location (passenger lower), requiring significant notching of the frame. I'm not sure what I want to do yet though. There are a lot of different options with different drawbacks.

[entropy]

Originally Posted by TheBandit

requiring significant notching of the frame.

Notch the frame for an accessory?
Go take a nap

[TheBandit]

Originally Posted by entropy

Notch the frame for an accessory?
Go take a nap

Right or wrong, I certainly wouldn't be the first to do it.

[TheBandit]

Here is an example of notching the frame to put the ac compressor on the passenger side low (factory LSx compressor position). This guy originally notched his frame for an LT1 install, then later fit an LS1. http://mcspeed.homestead.com/69_Cama...urrection.html





I imagine I could do a better job with plating and welding this up. I'm open to opinions on how much this compromises the strength of the frame. What do you think? The frame already has a sort of tub area here for accessory clearance.

[TheBandit]

Here is a better example. Not sure if you have to be registered/logged in at lateral-g.net to see this:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/atta...8&d=1236383265
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/atta...0&d=1236383265
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/atta...9&d=1236383265

You may have to be logged in to lateral-g.net for these to work:

[streetwerkz]

I wouldn't be afraid to do it that way.
I would roll the metal rather than use the "V" design to eliminate a weld point, and look cleaner.
Maybe continue the vertical plate near the motor mount all the way to the bottom/opposing cross member wall for additional support vertically.

[Captainfab]

Clint, Before you cut your subframe, check out the links here to see if there is anything available that would apply in your application.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...63&postcount=8

[TheBandit]

Thanks for the link Captain. I have looked into options for high mounting it, but I'd like to put it low. I wish I could say I'd be doing it for weight placement or some other functional reason, but honestly I just don't want the mess of accessories sticking off to the side and above the engine.

In addition to the radius, I'm thinking less could be cut out without sacrificing clearance. There is a lot of room in the bottom corner of that notch that could be replaced by structure.

[nwmod39]

here is a quick pic of a lefthander pavement circle track front clip...


they have been notching front clips for sbc fuel pump clearance for years and now they fab the crossmember for extra rack clearance.

[TheBandit]

I contacted the builder from the above posted frame notch and got some info on how he mounted his compressor. I may do something similar for brackets. Here are some pics he sent - some duplicates.

From the seller:
The compressor is a Zexell
Zexell 504-524 1/H/11, TRU-58616

the idler pulleys are ITM 60288, Napa NBHT 42011, NTP 95216

the belt is 6K938, Gates K060938, Goodyear 4060940

These will work if you are running the stock accessories from a camaro. my motor is from a 98 camaro. I had to move the compressor forward to run on the same belt as the other acccessories. If you need anything else at all let me know

[Captainfab]

I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with notching the subframe, I just wanted to be sure you were aware of a possible alternative. I'm sure if done properly a notch would be just fine. That was very nice of that guy to send you more pics and info.

[TheBandit]

Still plugging away at this thing. This weekend I shifted my focus away from the engine & accessories and instead worked on tearing the front end down and cleaning things up. Here's a shot of me just after pulling the fenders off.





My wife scored a free working pressure washer (electric 1550 psi Husky) a couple weeks ago. Wish I had a pressure washer a long time ago!











It took a combination of power and hand washing to get things cleaned up, but I'm happy with how it came out.





I found some of the nasty stuff under the fenders this time. Anyone have ideas on where the water comes from that causes rust in this area? I'm guess it must have pooled up inside, but I'm not sure where inside is or how water would get there.





Here is a picture from TEN years ago when I did the frame off on the car. I wish it were still as nice! If you want to read about that old build, take a look here: http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/



Things have come a long way. Back then I barey had my driver's license. Today I am married with a two month old. Here are my wife and son with the car.



That's all for today. More updates as I make progress.

[entropy]

"my wife and son with the car"
Proper order of things. Carry on.

[upman]

Cowl vents drain down there. Gets built up with leaves and debris. Easy fix as long as it doesn't go into the inner rocker. I had to cut holes in perfect floor pans to fix my inner rocker on my 67 chevelle.

[Captainfab]

Looks good Clint. You obviously did some excellent prep work and used some good paint on the subframe as well as the rest of the car. It has held up nicely.

It looks as though your wife and son are doing well.

[TheBandit]

Originally Posted by upman

Cowl vents drain down there. Gets built up with leaves and debris. Easy fix as long as it doesn't go into the inner rocker. I had to cut holes in perfect floor pans to fix my inner rocker on my 67 chevelle.

Is there supposed to be an outlet someplace that the water drains through? Other than the rusty opening I have now? Do I just need to cut around the rusted area, remove the debris, and weld in a patch?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Looks good Clint. You obviously did some excellent prep work and used some good paint on the subframe as well as the rest of the car. It has held up nicely.

It looks as though your wife and son are doing well.

Thanks Captain! I used PPG Delstar single stage polyurethane acrylic enamel. For ten years of abuse, I'd say it's doing pretty good. There are chips here and there and everywhere, especially on the leading faces of the frame from being pelted with road debris, but unless I get a wild hair I think I'll just touch it up and leave it alone.

Shannon and Logan are doing well. Family is #1 in my life. Fortunately they put up with my hobbies and ambitions too.

[ScooteK]

Car looks almost as good as the family. Great work!
Maybe rocks and stuff were flinged up from the tire and chiped the paint enough to allow puddle splash to get on the exposed metal? Just a thought.

[upman]

I think there should be drain holes in the bottom. Again mine was a chevelle but ya cut out the rust, spray on some weld through primmer and patch it up. If it gets really bad I know they make a patch panel for this area of the cowl.