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Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.


Race Car Fabrication There is a lot of cool fabriaction going on the race car industry, show us what you got.

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  #1  
Old 03-14-2016, 07:39 PM
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Video: How to Make a Fiberglass Race Car Dashboard

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10GY-hQi0KQ
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:44 PM
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The front Aero package on my Wife's car is made out of some kind of molded Poly Urethane like material. I know this material was chosen so that it would deflect rather then break. However with the sad state of the tarmac on our roads (fall of the roman empire comes to mind) these bits are now in need of replacing. At $250+US each side... they are just removed from the car at the moment.
Having watched you Vids I am thinking that I'll make my-own molds modify the mounting system and I can just re'pop the parts when they get damaged.
The question that I have is how to have the completed part fit the body when the original part is flexible. I can see that I will have to hold the part against the car when I make the mold but I have to do that, without damaging the car's paint.

Any pointers for a guy that is fiberglass illiterate?

E
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:32 PM
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You might try milling around on madmechanics.com. The forum deals mostly with replica / kit cars. Every once in a while someone asks about renting an exotic and making molds off it, trying not to damage the body in the process. One suggestion I came across was to make a silicon mold layer first then following up with FRP. The silicon protects the underlying body/paint from exothermic heat damage and provides a suitable surface for molding pats while the FRP adds rigidity. I don't know how you keep them together or how well they work as a final mold.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:16 PM
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One thought was to carefully tape the parts into the correct position and then,
use a wood box sealed to the body, and then,
using something like Plaster-of-Paris that would not itself harm the body, clean off with water, and then,
use that mold to make a good buck, and then...
finally make the permanent mold.......

And Then, I figured I would ask

E
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:24 PM
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How about layers of cellophane to protect the body? I really have no idea, lol.
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2016, 10:39 PM
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Beware the well meant advice of those who haven't actually done this. Entropy the good news is you're over thinking this job because you're not experienced & are probably a little nervous. Ever think the premise for your worry might be unfounded? Who says you can't make FLEXIBLE fiberglass parts? All you do is make a normal mould, then when laying up the copies use one less layer of cloth where you want it to flex to conform better to the car. It's preferrable to mould a panel job off the car if you can because you then have more control of the angle that you position it so the wet fiberglass cloth will take to the shape best. Try moulding & copying a small or simply shaped part first. You'll learn heaps & build your confidence, but copying some plastic parts can be difficult. My son struggled to get his blanking off to stick to that original dashboard -whereas I had none. Simply experience & confidence to just attack the job. Post pics of your parts here and I'll advise you more.

I'm actually moulding after market side skirts for my son's RX7 Elfini race car. One side was burnt in the fire on the car from a salvage auction, so I've had to do some creative sculpting to get the die for the damaged side using the one that is ok. I've also been trying to make fiberglass headlight covers for his RX7 forum mates. The factory ones are plastic and the very thin mounting tabs always bust. OME replacements are ridiculously priced. Copying the shape has been easy - but getting my tin mounting tabs in place has been a real challenge. Some car parts are really easy to copy - others require a lot of thought and creativity to reproduce - and others you just cannot do. Experience tells you which is which.

Bandit, laying fiberglass over silicone is a nightmare because that product is by nature non-stick in the extreme (it's very expensive too). So you end up with a coating that just wants the next layer to slip right off it. It IS used in some specialized FRP moulding, like when making pouring moulds for concrete garden statues - but in that case you WANT a mould inner layer that won't stick to the concrete you're gonna pour into them. The fiberglass just forms an outer cradle for the rubber mould. The rubber is the mould - not the FRP. This technique is very rarely necessary in car work. When you use release wax & PVA release on a car body part the original paint is undamaged - you just hose off the PVA residue and buff the wax! Deaner... your last thought was right mate... but you gave me a real chuckle... no offense..

Last edited by Redliner; 03-15-2016 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:36 AM
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Redliner. I think E's concern is the original Plug that he want to make a mold from is very flexible. When Pulled out of the car it is going to go all wonky and a mold made from that would not match the car.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:52 AM
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Yeah I understood that, which was why I was saying making the copy flexible as well may overcome that problem. But I'll have a better idea when I see the job. I've actually had the OPPOSITE happen with women. At first they appear very flexible, but when you peel them off they can become very rigid! Sorry... deviating from the thread theme & forum parameters.

Last edited by Redliner; 03-16-2016 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:26 PM
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There is a note for size
Can't hold the part and twist it while taking a Pix but with just a thumb and finger I can easily twist the part along the length I'll say 30.
This piece mounts to the "Bumper" which is made of more of this plastic/urethane stuff.


E
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:42 PM
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The fact that you have a $10 Australian note on hand is just plain awesome. I had to look that one up - never been down under and can't wait to visit some day.
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:05 PM
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THE BEST video intros on you tube!
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:42 PM
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Entropy just go ahead and mould that; it should be fine as is.

However if you are still stressed about it retaining it's shape here's how to overcome that. Mount the part back on the car. Cut a stiff cardboard pattern of the shape of the edge of the spoiler where it mounts onto the car (because if this is shaped right everything else will be too). Transfer the cardboard to 20mm particle board and trim it to fit 90%. Remove the spoiler. Set up the particle board with the cut edge facing skywards so you can cradle the spoiler in it along that edge, lightly gluing the two temporarily together with a LITTLE silicon or double sided foam tape. Cut a stiff cardboard pattern of that same edge - but this time on the INSIDE of the spoiler. Cut out this inside pattern (that replicates the curve of the car where the spoiler fits on), in particle board, and glue it to the unpainted side of the spoiler. Remove the first pattern from the painted side of the spoiler. Now mould it.

Now that is a lotta work. Not difficult by any means, but I've never had to do it and I don't really think you need to go to all that extra trouble in your case anyway. I'm confident if you just mould the part in the shape it wants to take when off the car you'll find a copy made of 1 layer of 225gm csm and only 1 layer of 450gm csm will flex enough to twist to whatever degree might be necessary for a good fit.
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redliner View Post
Entropy just go ahead and mould that; it should be fine as is.

However if you are still stressed about it retaining it's shape here's how to overcome that. Mount the part back on the car. Cut a stiff cardboard pattern of the shape of the edge of the spoiler where it mounts onto the car (because if this is shaped right everything else will be too). Transfer the cardboard to 20mm particle board and trim it to fit 90%. Remove the spoiler. Set up the particle board with the cut edge facing skywards so you can cradle the spoiler in it along that edge, lightly gluing the two temporarily together with a LITTLE silicon or double sided foam tape. Cut a stiff cardboard pattern of that same edge - but this time on the INSIDE of the spoiler. Cut out this inside pattern (that replicates the curve of the car where the spoiler fits on), in particle board, and glue it to the unpainted side of the spoiler. Remove the first pattern from the painted side of the spoiler. Now mould it.

Now that is a lotta work. Not difficult by any means, but I've never had to do it and I don't really think you need to go to all that extra trouble in your case anyway. I'm confident if you just mould the part in the shape it wants to take when off the car you'll find a copy made of 1 layer of 225gm csm and only 1 layer of 450gm csm will flex enough to twist to whatever degree might be necessary for a good fit.
Thank You for the advice and encouragement!
Now to get the shop above freezing and take a shot at it.

I'll let you know when I do.

E
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:19 PM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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Threadjack;
I tried to find a way to contact Redliner directly but couldn't.
I hope to get some advice on some fiberglass selling on my local kijiji.
Description in ad;
Quote:
I HAVE THOUSANDS OF ROLLS OF 5X5 BY 145 GAUGE FIVERGLASS MESH THAT I UNDERSTAND CAN BE USED TO REINFORCE CONCRETE OR ANY CEMENT STRUCTURE INCLUDING DRIVEWAYS THAT I AM LOOKING TO SELL


I think it would be grams, not gauge. There is a container load and the guy wants to sell quickly. I would get a cut if I help. What other uses is there for this? What is the going rate for commercial quantities?

Thanks,
Richard
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:03 PM
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redlina@bigpond.com I have never heard of that product, so I'd just Google it to find out. Here's what Wiki says about it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiber-reinforced_concrete Google a fiberglass materials supplier in your state. Look for a big trade supplier, then call & ask if they sell that stuff, & that way you'll get a price on it. You can always message me through "discussion" on my WJP004 You Tube channel too.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:32 PM
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Try and see if there is a West Marine near you. They sell lots of Fiberglass Stuff. It is pretty easy to Splash a current item and then build your mold from that.

Several coats of good car way will work as a release agent for the splash. Once you have a basic mold of the surface remove it and then strengthen with ribs and more glass on the back.

Hardest part might be making sure you have enough draft to remove the mold from the original. I can point you to several good books if you are interested.


Carl
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:55 PM
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Actually molding after market side skirts for my son's RX7 Elfini race car. One side was burnt in the fire on the car from a salvage auction, so I've had to do some creative sculpting to get the die for the damaged side using the one that is ok. I have also been trying to make fiberglass headlight covers for his RX7 forum mates.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:37 PM
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Elfini covers? I make & export fiberglass ones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIEDL3ZsoCE
My son races an FD & has just won our state hillclimb title series, so I make various race bits for him which I sell to other enthusiasts. Your FD mates will love these vids, along with my son's WJP racing Facebook page & WJP Racing You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LncsxOBxWfk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kvpx3us1X3c
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:52 PM
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@Redliner,
FYI; jimmy is a bot. It copies and pastes previous posts together. We sortof let him bring back old posts, it can be interesting and/or entertaining.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwaysFlOoReD View Post
@Redliner,
FYI; jimmy is a bot. It copies and pastes previous posts together. We sortof let him bring back old posts, it can be interesting and/or entertaining.
And, he's getting better with each post.

That one was almost readable.
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