Band saw Conversion?

Frijolero · #1 08-31-2009, 05:58 PM

Whats up everyone?

Im new here and cant wait to start sharing pictures of things I build and learning some new stuff... Running out of time before I have to go back to getting my but kicked by textbooks in college though.

I just, and when I say just I mean less then two hours ago, bought a woodcutting bandsaw from my neighbor for 80 bucks and its in great shape so I figured for the deal and for the fun I'd turn some new pulleys for it and slow it down enough to cut some plate and Im happy

So my question is:

Has anyone ever modified a wood cuting band saw to be able to cut steel with it?

Please keep in mind that Im a college kid working on a budget so don't go telling me to get rid of it and get a real saw because this is all I can afford.

here is "BS" in question:
http://www.cncsave.com/listings/33696.htm

Thanks

Danny

FrogDog · #2 08-31-2009, 06:06 PM

Hey Danny, there was a few threads here on that...

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=4404

never done it myself, but all i can do to help atm....

Cheer'z Bro

Dog.....

SlightlyModified · #3 08-31-2009, 09:00 PM

Just done it with a 14" wood saw. Just figure out your motor rpm, blade puley diameter, and do the math to figure your motor pulleys. My saw was something like 1725 rpm, 14" blade pulley, I used a 1" or maybe it was 1 1/4" motor pulley and a 12" pullley on the shaft connecting the blade. This put me at a free running speed of about 900FPM if I remember correctly.

Frijolero · #4 08-31-2009, 10:37 PM

cool!

did you buy your pulleys or make them?

miteclgst · #5 08-31-2009, 10:45 PM

Mcmaster Carr (mcmaster.com) different size pulleys and any kind of shaft you need. they also have step pulleys if you would like the ability to vary the speed for different materials

Frijolero · #6 08-31-2009, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miteclgst

Mcmaster Carr (mcmaster.com) different size pulleys and any kind of shaft you need. they also have step pulleys if you would like the ability to vary the speed for different materials

Duh! I didnt even consider ordering... All that was in my head was...Search and search at the hardware store or try to make my own

THANKS!

Frijolero · #7 09-01-2009, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlightlyModified

Just done it with a 14" wood saw. Just figure out your motor rpm, blade puley diameter, and do the math to figure your motor pulleys. My saw was something like 1725 rpm, 14" blade pulley, I used a 1" or maybe it was 1 1/4" motor pulley and a 12" pullley on the shaft connecting the blade. This put me at a free running speed of about 900FPM if I remember correctly.

What kind of material have you been cutting since you changed the pulleys?

My new saw also has a motor speed of 1725 rpm and 14" blade pulleys but isnt 900fpm too fast for steel? I thought you cut aluminum at around 1000fpm on a bandsaw and steel was less than half that...?

entropy · #8 09-01-2009, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frijolero

What kind of material have you been cutting since you changed the pulleys?

My new saw also has a motor speed of 1725 rpm and 14" blade pulleys but isnt 900fpm too fast for steel? I thought you cut aluminum at around 1000fpm on a bandsaw and steel was less than half that...?

900 Will work with a good quality blade, for Aluminum.
However for any steel you need to be down in the 80 to 200 range

SlightlyModified · #9 09-01-2009, 12:27 PM

Sorry Actually my numbers came out to 650fpm for my saw. For me to get down to 200, I cannot do it with just two pulleys. With my 1.25 motor pulley, I would need the other pulley to be 39.5" diameter, ha........

Give me your specs and I can figure it for you, if you don't want to do the math. Actually, give me your e-mail and I'll just send you an excel spreadsheet that you can just plug your numbers into.....

Frijolero · #10 09-02-2009, 05:42 PM

I dont mind doing the math...I had just not measured anything.... or for that matter read well, The motor turns 1720 rpm

Its got a cone step pulley on the motor and the smallest has an OD of 1.125" while the input pulley that drives the saw measures 5.5".

So theres a gear reduction of 4.8 to 1 between the motor and drive pulley. With 14" OD Blade pulleys that puts the FPM at 1313.

So im putting together a pillow block with the 5.5" pulley on one side and a 1.5" pulley on the other, then I'll run a belt from the 1.5" to a new 12" on the input to the saw.

So from
1.125" to 5.5"
with the 5.5" running a 1.5"
and the 1.5" turning a 12"
and the 12" turning the 14" blade pulley

= 161 FPM

entropy · #11 09-02-2009, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frijolero

161 FPM

Be sure that you get a good blade because you're on the high side.
Also use actual Cutting oil, just a little.

Frijolero · #12 09-02-2009, 11:14 PM

Well I got it as low as I could go with what I found at my local hardware store:
10" pulley and a 1" pulley

So....
Used bandsaw - $80
Pulleys and Pillow Block - $66
auto belt from kragen $10
Total: $160 ,with the gas spent

Recalculated the speed and its actually 131 SFM

I think I may go back later and replace the garage opener hanger looking stuff for some rectangular tubing but right now there is no flex or swaying when its running

Thanks for the help guys!
Im going to cut and weld some blades at my HS and stop by the hardware store to pick up some cutting fluid.

FrogDog · #13 09-03-2009, 01:21 AM

That is awesome. Converting something is always kewl .. '

' .. Other than cut speeds.. What did you decide on blade pitch, width, length and thickness .. And will the mechanical operation such as Idler pullies, bearings, tention and throat be an issue for size, longevity, true cut..

I guess time will tell...

I look at it this way .. It's simler to moding my jeep.. Do 1 thing, and 10 usually comes after... hehe...

Cheer'z Bro.. good luck, well done....

Dog.....

P.S. .. I do believe the multi purpose angle may cause some grief...

Frijolero · #14 09-03-2009, 01:56 AM

For blade...I'll just go with whatever my H.S. shop has in hand by way of rolls and weld a couple different blades together and just see what works best for the speed. As far as the mechanical components, I would imagine they would have less wear since they are all receiving 1/10 of the wear as far as turning goes..if I break something I'll just upgrade down the line

I know that the slotted angle was not the best idea but its just what I had on hand

FrogDog · #15 09-03-2009, 02:41 AM

Ahhh,, the H.S. fringe benifit thing... hehe.. never thought of that ...

.. sorry

Dog....

Flatline's Up! · #16 09-03-2009, 08:58 AM

Nice work man... IMHO if the slotted angle works, why change it? it looks racer cool w/all the "race holes" in it

Frijolero · #17 09-03-2009, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrogDog

Ahhh,, the H.S. fringe benifit thing... hehe.. never thought of that ...

.. sorry

Dog....

haha..yup high school fringe benefits...Sometimes Im there everyday of the week when Im building stuff, using the band saw and mill alot, thats why I got the bandsaw to have at home and looking for a drill press too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flatline's Up!

Nice work man... IMHO if the slotted angle works, why change it? it looks racer cool w/all the "race holes" in it

I know, if only I had some 1/2" dimple dies

paranoid56 · #18 09-03-2009, 11:01 PM

how does it work?

go back to your school and make some dimple dies on teh lathe. i think the smallest dimple i have is 1" or .75. cant remember

Frijolero · #19 09-03-2009, 11:42 PM

I'll tell you guys how it works tomorrow after I get some blades... all I have cut is some aluminum with a wood blade on there and it felt pretty smooth.

Are there cad files for dimple dies online anywhere? I have used them very little some I am really not familiar enough with them to design my own.

Danny

paranoid56 · #20 09-04-2009, 02:42 AM

i have the DWG file for a 1" whats your email