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Old 11-10-2011, 12:43 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
Master Fabricator
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Skull County, Ca
Posts: 1,637
Originally Posted by CarterKraft View Post
Sorry for all the questions but you have built the finest example i have seen to date, this stove is on par with what I would like to build.

Thanx for the compliment.

Ok so if you had to do this again since the air has to be sealed through the door might you keep the air controls out of the door? It would just make it easier to package I think but might not look near as clean.

In the case of this stove I would still have the primary air control in the door as it really looks good, but I would try to stay away from it if I could just to make it simpler to seal the door.

Do you think there is a benefit to separating the secondary and primary air supplies for individual control of each air supply and tuning?

In reality you only control primary air, the secondary air should always be wide open letting the stove have as much as it wants, so you have to use two separate systems. However, because I was concerned with over fire and/or chimney fires I did put shutters on the two air inlets for the secondary air that could be closed easily in an emergency.

Glass.... Did you have it made, buy a premade piece for another stove or?
How is it attached, I see the blocks and what looks like bolts/studs but can't make out what is actually going on. Did you seal the glass to the door, high temp RTV or fireplace glue?

Most good stove shops will cut the glass for you. It is special glass though, has a ceramic in it that lowers the expansion to almost nil. Very expensive stuff too, I got it for $0.85 per square inch but I had to shop around (my glass was $104), I saw it as high as $1.25 per square inch. The glass hold downs are hard to explain so I will try to get you a close up picture, simple just hard to explain with out a good pic. The glass is sealed to the door with flat tape gasket material, same stuff the rope door seal is made of but a 1/8" x 3/8" flat weave and it has sticky stuff on one side to hold it in place while you set the glass in. Make sure the glass has some room to move, as the stove expands and contracts any metal to glass contact is not good, keep the metal to glass contact to a minimum.

Refractory, those pieces look like one piece. Does that mean you made your own refractory cement?

No, I didn't make the refractory. It is 1" thick sheet refractory material made for insulating ceramic kilns and held in with screw in tabs so it is replaceable, as it will get beat up by the firewood. The bottom is lined with 1 1/4" thick standard fire brick.

Air tube holes, I was going to copy the air holes from a similar sized commercial stove I have downloaded the manual for, did you just guess or do something similar.

Basically I looked at a number of different stoves and correlated their fire box size to the size and number (area) of secondary air holes they had (stoves vary some here so I don't think there is a fixed formula). Then I looked at the size of my fire box and calculated so that I had the same area of hole to cubic inch of fire box. I hope that makes sense. I have it written somewhere and when I find it I will post it up.

Smoke shelf, did you buy a ceramic plate for the top of the secondary tubes, or make a refractory piece or?

It is the same refractory insulation as the sides and back.

Again sorry to bomb you with these questions but I feel like you have a grasp on what you are doing and the theory behind it. Also don't worry about being to thorough, I am just curious what you did and if you would do something different. I have a design but would love to hear any thing you could have done differently.

Feel free to ask more if you want I like to share what I learned. But do remember I am not a wood stove engineer. That said I am very happy with how clean this stove seems to burn, I really wish I knew how the EPA tested stoves because I would love to know how clean it is actually burning.

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